Can you access the starter bolt nuts by removing the rear fender 4speed FLH
I assume that you mean the starter drive bolts. The starter is held onto the starter drive by two long thru studs but you 're better off removing the starter drive/starter as an assembly. Remove the battery box and the bracket that's bolted to the trans cover (kicker or non). Remove the clutch cable from the release arm. With a long extension you should be able to easily remove both starter drive bolts from the right side of your bike. Remove these with the bike level rather than on side stand and less chance of loosing the lock washers. Lays a rag on your trans cover to protect it and you shouod be able to remove the starter w/o removing the oil tank. You're going to have to lift the right side of the starter up so that the starter drive end dips down a bit to clear the oil tank to battery box mount. It's a little tight but you shouldn't have to pry on it. Be sure to unhook your battery before you begin this project.
:agree: :up:
No need to pull oil tank or fender.
it is possible to to get to the 2 starter housing nuts from the RH side but they have rounded heads. using a good socket and extension. guessing the Batt tray is out of the way
oil tank out makes things a lot easier
You can remove starter with use of extensions, universal and some time.
Quote from: bump on May 03, 2021, 05:59:45 AM
You can remove starter with use of extensions, universal and some time.
a couple of beers and patience.but getting the bolts back in will be a challenge
Quote from: david lee on May 03, 2021, 05:10:54 PM
Quote from: bump on May 03, 2021, 05:59:45 AM
You can remove starter with use of extensions, universal and some time.
a couple of beers and patience.but getting the bolts back in will be a challenge
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is w
There are a number of different ways to hold the bolt in the socket. A little duct tape works great. Don't overdo it and the tape will stay on the socket and release from the bolt head when you need it to. Always, always, always start those bolt by hand via the extension. Only use the ratchet once you know that threads are not crossed.
Can do without removing oil tank & battery. As stated, long extensions and a U-joint, but also using a 1/4" drive ratchet & extension and a deep 6 point socket makes it easier. When you go to put it back together, getting the lock washers on can be tricky, I use a long shaft #1 Philips screwdriver, but the washer on it, touch the tip of the driver to the end of the stud, then slide the washer down. You can get the nuts one & started by putting them in the socket.
-JW
Last spring I pulled the battery box to glass bead and paint it I looked from the rt side and could only see one of the two nuts. Thats why I asked about the fender for possibly a better view.
You know how you can reach in your pocket and find by feel 2 nuts you can't see? That's part of how you do the starter extraction. :wink:
Quote from: kd on May 03, 2021, 07:35:41 PM
You know how you can reach in your pocket and find by feel 2 nuts you can't see? That's part of how you do the starter extraction. :wink:
:dgust: :hyst: :hyst: :hyst: :hyst:
the front starter bolt on mine is accessed thru the inner primary
wait till you hear the nut drop on top of the chain ......
I use the long screw driver trick to get the washers on, then stack some nuts in the socket with grease then the last one is flat and square to the socket. who needs to cross thread those studs
Quote from: kd on May 03, 2021, 07:35:41 PM
You know how you can reach in your pocket and find by feel 2 nuts you can't see? That's part of how you do the starter extraction. :wink:
Kinda what I thought....funny
Quote from: david lee on May 04, 2021, 03:48:30 PM
the front starter bolt on mine is accessed thru the inner primary
My first Shovel was a 1980 FXS (bought used in 93) and it was set up the same way. :idea: I forgot about that little fact there. IIRC the front starter drive housing mounting hole was threaded to accept that bolt from the inner primary side. I see that there were three different starter drive housings that they used.
I know that the Prestolite motors had a different thru-hole spacing so 71 and 72 (31465-65) were different than the 73 and later ones. Now seeing that there's a 73 early 79 housing (31572-73) and a late 79 and later housng (31572-79). Both 73 and later discriptions read "STARTER SHAFT HOUSING, with bearing (Hitachi)" but the most reent one also reads "(plate shifter transmission)".