have been told that its safe to run 20/50wt oil in a ironhead?? :wtf: or should i stick with the tried an true straight weight Thanks
i run 60w in my bike but it is old
same here. 60 wt. (not to promote a brand but i use valvoline racing for 35 years now in it)
who would have thought? a oil thread on ironheads....lol...its usually over in the twin cam side..
anyway, i must qualify my choice in that it ws 80 degrees today and often gets in to the 115's out here in the south west.
i also like the straightweignt cause of the lack of modifers. if riding in cold i would still use straight weight, maybe a lower visc...
hell JmanJeff. if its iron its OLD..... LOL
I run 70wt mosty unless cool weather riding then 60wt...calls for 105wt if over 85 degree weather...havn't found any 105 wt but could use it on hot days as 70 gets thin if having to ride slow for very long such as slow moving traffic...78xlh.. :smiled:
i run straight 60 wt in the bag and redline 75-90 in the primary.Salty
Mine has had nothing but a major brand automotive 20w-50 in it since new. I run non-detergent 30wt oil in the primary. It must work fine. At 53k miles, she still has the original primary chain in it.
I ran straight 60W for over 30 years in my '60 XLCH, but always had trouble with the clutch grabbing at a stop. This year I'm going to try automotive 20W-50 to see if that helps.
Also, heard of guys using ATF in the primary - I am using it in my 2007 TC 103 primary for the past 1-1/2 years and it works and shifts great.
Quote from: LONE WOLF on March 05, 2009, 07:39:20 AM
I ran straight 60W for over 30 years in my '60 XLCH, but always had trouble with the clutch grabbing at a stop. This year I'm going to try automotive 20W-50 to see if that helps.
Also, heard of guys using ATF in the primary - I am using it in my 2007 TC 103 primary for the past 1-1/2 years and it works and shifts great.
I'm sure you know, but I'll remind you, your TC primary is separate from the tranny. Your ironhead tranny runs in your primary fluid... so I wouldn't use ATF in a sporty.
I run straight 50, 60, or 70 wt in my '69, both holes, depending on how cold or hot it is....
53 large with the original primary chain? I'd change it just to be safe. Seen to many cracked cases over the years from broken chains. Use the best parts you can find, made in the US if possible. Most stuff made in Japan, not China, is also top notch.
:gob: :soda:
That 1960 should have a dry clutch. Oil weight shouldn't make it grab. Straight 50 or 60 wt. less likely to seep into cluch. Tranny smoother too.
mike and ron make good points here.the clutch was originally dry and if sealed properly heavy oil works best.(imo)53k on that primary chain well thats your call.Salty
If running ATF in a Sporty you need to block off the bleed hole from the trans to the primary (JB Weld works good), then fill with only enough ATF fluid to cover the lowest part of the chain. Even though it is a "dry" clutch they allways seem to leak and become "wet". Also, I have found (over the years trying many "hi-performance" plates) that the stock Harley plates perform the best with one (1) extra steel plate - even wet.