2010 Ultra Classic General Questions

[Nooter99]

After almost 20 years of riding Fatboys, due to my advanced age (56) and some pretty bad back problems (also due to my advanced age) I will be buying a 2010 Ultra on Thursday. My first touring bike.

I'm just looking for some general thoughts on both that particular bike, and touring bikes in general.
Is there anything I need to keep an eye on as far as common problems with this particular year and model?
What would be the "must do" general upgrades to increase basic performance and comfort? Bike is about 90% stock.
Any advice on riding style compared to a Softail?

Basically anything you can tell me as far as what to expect over the coming days, months and years, as I finally have to admit that I'm so old and broken I have to switch to a bagger! LOL
Honestly, I'm looking forward to it. It'll be nice to ride more than 50 miles without feeling like I was hit by a truck the next day.

[thumpr54]

How many miles are on it ?......My 2009 Road King is about the same thing. I've replaced the compensator, auto primary chain adjuster and starter drive...I think the starter problem was a result of the compensator issue. I hadn't studied what kind of problems they were seeing on these. When it first acted up I thought maybe my starter switch was intermittent...didn't act up all the time...but then when it started making noise after I shut it down figured it was something else. At least it didn't leave me by the side of the road. Also had an intermittent problem where it'd go into forced idle mode....you can find some info on that on this site...P1510 was one of the error codes....and it seemed to be temperature dependent.....but mostly been a good ride....had less than 9K on it when I got it in 2010,,,,over 50K now..would be more but I had 2 flats on the rear in one season and bought a new Road Glide August of 2016 right before the M8s came out....that's been a good one so far.... the vents in the fairing not working....good luck

[Hossamania]

That pretty much covered it, chain tensioners, lifters (definitely do them when you do tensioners), compensator, a good tune after you do the stage 1.
Then, cams, big bore to 103, tune.

[tomboyjr]

 I sold my 2010 Ultra last year. I bought it new, sold it with 72k on it. It was pretty much trouble free for all those miles.
  One day at about 5 years old it went into limp mode. I turned the bike off, then on again and it was fine for a few miles, then did it again. I was near a dealer so I drove it there, and after 2 hours they couldn't find a problem, or make it do it again. I'm guessing they put dielectric grease on all the TB connections.  It never did it again.
In 2017 I was getting a check engine light, I forgot the code. But it was just a broken wire in the bundle of wires that run from under the tank along the frame into the fairing. Apparently its common, after years of turning the bars to the left to park it, the wires stretch. It was a bitch to find. Of the 12 or so little strands in that wire, 3 or 4 were still connected and so it would test ok for continuity.
I would cut and loosen the ties that hold that wire bundle, and then just ride the bike.

[Ohio HD]

If the exhaust is stock, there are catalytic converts in the mufflers. They hold back flow and generate heat. "If" yu are going to re-tune the FI,  this needs addressed the same time.

[Hossamania]

You mentioned it's 90% stock. What is not stock?

[Nooter99]

You mentioned it's 90% stock. What is not stock?

Motor and drive train is 100% stock. I was referring to a little bit of bling that has nothing to do with performance. I'll be doing a typical Stage 1, pipes, breather and tuner.

[mike49]

You should gain more ground clearance, helpful if you like to ride some of back country  road "twisties"

[chaos901]

I have a 2010 Ultra, the transmission gearing is much better than it was in 2007 or 2008 when it was too high.  I like the bigger tires and always forget that I have to unbolt the rear brake from the mount in order to remove the wheel.  The only issue I have ever had is the "limp mode" previously mentioned. 

[Nooter99]

Couple of you guys have mentioned the "limp home mode". What was the final diagnosis? Is it usually the same issue? Just in case I run into that.

[chaos901]

It is a "known" problem with Throttle By Wire bikes.  Those started in 2008 and possibly the problem was corrected since then, but my 2010 did it on a trip last year.  Got towed into a dealer and they cleaned the connecters to the throttle body, put some dielectric grease on them, put the connector back together and we were back on the road. 

[fleetmechanic]

We have several '09,'10,'11 and later bikes in our fleet.  2 consistent problems have been the steering head nut coming loose because there is no folded washer under them anymore and a transmission leak on the right side because the 2 lower cover bolts that also support the exhaust bracket work loose from vibration.  The pinched wires at the steering head have been seen a few times also.
But they are excellent rides overall.

[Leed]

I've got an 09 and have had the same limp home issue.  Cleaned the connectors at the throttle body and it hasn't happened again.  I did have the main drive gear bearing go south on me and that wasn't a fun repair but with a lot of advice from here I was able to fix it myself.  Other than that it's been a reliable ride.

[Nooter99]

Ok then, as soon as I get it home, I'll clean the throttle body connector and add some dielectric grease!
See, this is why I love HTT....Problem solved before it even starts!

[IronMike113]

Just Wait till you Dig into that Motor and Tranny,,,,,That's where we Really Shine on spending you Money,,,,,,,,,,, Hahahahaha 

[PBSTN]

Run the vin on Harley website. See if there are any standing recalls. I had one on my 10 road king that I bought last year. I cleaned the throttle body connecter. And I pulled each fuse. Cleaned em and put dielectric grease on them also.

[Ohio HD]

Ok then, as soon as I get it home, I'll clean the throttle body connector and add some dielectric grease!
See, this is why I love HTT....Problem solved before it even starts!

Dielectric  grease keeps the connections cleaner and moisture free, also helps eliminate some fretting at the connections. The 2008 through 2011 or so I think were most likley to have connection issues. The actual connection fix is using the newer solder on terminals, they're a gold plate if I remember correctly.

And there are other reasons for the system to go into limp mode. Usually those issues keep you stranded until you fix the problem.

[thumpr54]

The dielectric grease and replacement pins didn't fix mine...it was very intermittent...temp related....here's my post from years ago describing it.....

if you're still dealing with this issue....I have 09 RK that I got when it was a year old. Had intermittent P1510 and I think the 2138 codes...would occasionally go into limp/idle mode. Rode at idle almost 20 miles near Anamosa, Iowa one year...had it to 2 different dealers and they'd reset the codes and CND(could not duplicate)...they replaced the pins on TB connector..one told me i needed a new wiring harness !......I finally figured out it was thermal....when it got to a particular temp...in my case when ambient temp was 70 degrees...it would miss a few times then give codes and go into limp mode...sometimes just resetting the IGN switch would get me going again...sit over night and it'd run fine again...I put a thermometer on it to confirm...had the wiring all apart checking. I never knew for sure......but after I pulled the MAP sensor off the throttle body one winter..blew it out and squirted a little lube/penetrant on it....it's never failed again in 5 years....don't know if it had a connection I moved around or something with the sensor....but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed....fixed electronics for 40 years...them intermittents are a PIA...

[genzer]

I didn't have any problems with mine ( except for the crash ) put in a set of Andrews 48 : made a nice difference.

[les]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011.  Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

[Nooter99]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011.  Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

[jamminhd2000]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

[Ohio HD]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

[les]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

Exactly, and because he'd be buying the SE comp over the counter new, it will come with the scoops which eliminate (at least on mine) the fretting.

[MikeL]

Being that all the mechanical demons have been listed. I would like to share my thoughts on owning a H/D Ultra Classic
I'm 57 and have a bad back, bad knees, fused right wrist and a placated diaphragm.
I own a 2002 fat Boy, 2000RKC, and 2007 Ultra Classic. Out of all of them the 2007 is top heavy. Add any weight in tour pack it makes slow speed maneuvering difficult at times, especially if you have a passenger on board. Getting on and off  due to the tour pack in more difficult compared to the fatboy and RKC. I have a back support pad and it adds to the difficulty of getting off. I also installed leather saddle bag covers. I kept hitting the tops with my shoes when getting off so now I scuff the leather. In my case the stock seat is uncomfortable I have a mustang touring seat on the RKC gonna swap that out.
This bike also has the fiberglass lowers. These are great at highway speeds keeping the wind down and water off when it rains however when in traffic, stop and go the heat is pretty substantial especially down here in Florida. I did install Andrews 48 cams which did help with getting the heat down.
Comparing the 3 bikes. The Ultra would be my 1st choice for a long trip with a passenger. The RKC is right up there but dosen't have the wind and water protection or radio. The fatboy could tour I just use it for short runs on good weather days
You will get used to riding it.

                                                                                                       MIKE

[Nooter99]

Picked the bike up a few hours ago. Man, what a difference! Did about 30 miles down the freeway on my way home. At one point I glanced at the speedo to make sure I was doing the speed limit (70mph), was doing almost 90! Where did all the wind go???

[Teardrop]

I had to replace the following,

1. 2 Compensators. I am now on my 3rd one.
2. S&S lifters. I changed them out when I put in Woods 555 cams
3. Aftermarket exhaust and breather.
4. Power Vision Tuner
5. Had to replace the fuel filter housing when the original one cracked. This is the only thing that has left me stranded.
6. Had fretting on one of the pins in the harnes that plugs into the throttle body.

[Hossamania]

Picked the bike up a few hours ago. Man, what a difference! Did about 30 miles down the freeway on my way home. At one point I glanced at the speedo to make sure I was doing the speed limit (70mph), was doing almost 90! Where did all the wind go???

Those cockpits are pretty calm. Get it set up with your own tunes, matched to a great road sometime, and it is just too much fun.

[FSG]

Picked the bike up a few hours ago. Man, what a difference! Did about 30 miles down the freeway on my way home. At one point I glanced at the speedo to make sure I was doing the speed limit (70mph), was doing almost 90! Where did all the wind go???

Check the Docs Section for M1310B to check that the Safety Recall 145 has been done on that bike,

OR put the VIN into the HD SIP Site to check if it's done or outstanding.

=>  https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm

[Billy]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

2014

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=67678.0

[Ohio HD]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

2014

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=67678.0

Better let HD know that. They think the scoop started in 2016.


2007 to 2015 - 60553-07A COVER, PRIMARY (CHROME)

Starting in 2016 - 25700385 COVER, PRIMARY (CHROME)


I had to buy 2016 covers to upgrade my early bikes.

[hattitude]

That pretty much covered it, chain tensioners, lifters (definitely do them when you do tensioners), compensator, a good tune after you do the stage 1.
Then, cams, big bore to 103, tune.

The 2010 has the newer cam plate with hydraulic cam chain tensioners.... he should be good to go with his chain tensioners...

Of course, he can always change the lifters when he adds cams.... new cams are always a good thing....!

[Ohio HD]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

2014

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=67678.0

There must be an issue with why HD is showing the scoop starting in 2016, yet you are right about the Torx fastened compensator being there in the 2014 model year. Not sure why this is shown this way by the MOCO.

[Billy]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

2014

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=67678.0

There must be an issue with why HD is showing the scoop starting in 2016, yet you are right about the Torx fastened compensator being there in the 2014 model year. Not sure why this is shown this way by the MOCO.

According to the fiche for '13-'17 FLHTK:

https://www.outpostalaska.com/OEMpartfinder

Primary cover, Chrome

2013; 60553-07
2014; 60553-07A
2015; 60553-07A
2016; 25700385
2017; 25700418

Looks like it was revised in '14 for the scoop, not sure why the new number for '16.
The '17 revision probably something for the M8.

[Nooter99]

Ok, I've had the bike for a week now, very happy so far. Couple of things though.

First, neutral to first gear is very, very clunky compared to what I'm used to. Trying to remember to put it in first before starting it, but getting a minor lurch when starting. No big deal, pretty sure clutch needs a little adjustment, it engages way further out than I like anyway.

Second, suspension has bottomed out a few times, I ordered the hand pump to adjust, the guy I bought it from said he runs 12lbs, seems a little low to me, will try 20lbs and go from there.

Third, fly by wire throttle will take some getting used to. I'm gonna do a stage 1 with a Power Vision, it's my understanding I can adjust sensitivity of throttle with the PV, is that true?

And one last thing, cigarette lighter didn't work (yes, I'm a smoker). Pulled fuse box cover, no fuse in the slot. Bought a fuse, installed it, still no lighter, pulled the new fuse out, had already blew. Any suggestions on that?

Other than those few little things, I'm very happy with the bike. It will be nice to be able to ride more than a 100 miles a day without feeling like I was in the ring with Tyson the next day.

Edit: Almost forgot. The rear brake pedal has lot of travel before engaging, and then doesn't feel very effective. Pads look decent, maybe 50% left. No squeaking or grinding. They feel fine except for the excessive travel and lack of bite, But man, without the front brakes I'm not sure the bike would ever stop! They are NOT ABS. I assume bleeding is needed. What do you guys think?

[Hossamania]

The first gear clunk is quite normal, I'm not a fan of starting in gear, it puts an extra strain on the starter, my opinion of course. Lube the handle and adjust to your liking. Lubing the cable is not recommended as it has a Teflon liner, but I have done mine, it's working fine so far.
The shocks can be run up to 50 pounds of pressure, keep experimenting.
The throttle takes a little getting used to, I find the spring a little stiffer than my bike with cables.
Cigarette lighter probably has a short in the wiring (at the neck where it bends probably) or a bad unit itself. You'll have to pull the fairing and start testing.
You'll like the calm cockpit and comfy ride! Makes it easier to smoke....

[chaos901]

They are NOT ABS. I assume bleeding is needed. What do you guys think?

Are you sure they are not ABS?    Anyway, bleeding should take care of the travel issue but in addition to bleeding the brakes I would change the brake fluid too, should be done every couple of years and it may not have ever been changed.   


added: On the clutch, if it is a hyd clutch there is no real adjustment.  That fluid needs to be changed every couple of years too. 

[Nooter99]

They are NOT ABS. I assume bleeding is needed. What do you guys think?

Are you sure they are not ABS?    Anyway, bleeding should take care of the travel issue but in addition to bleeding the brakes I would change the brake fluid too, should be done every couple of years and it may not have ever been changed.   


added: On the clutch, if it is a hyd clutch there is no real adjustment.  That fluid needs to be changed every couple of years too.

There is no Hydraulic Control Unit on the bike, so no ABS. Right?

[chaos901]

The control unit (if there) would be under the right side cover.  You would also have the wheel sensors on the front and rear that the axels go through.  I was thinking that all the Touring bikes had ABS by 2010, it certainly was available by 2008.   

[HogMike]

The control unit (if there) would be under the right side cover.  You would also have the wheel sensors on the front and rear that the axels go through.  I was thinking that all the Touring bikes had ABS by 2010, it certainly was available by 2008.   

ABS was available on some models, was standard on cvo and limited touring models.

[Hossamania]

If no abs, standard bleeding procedures apply. If abs present, it should be activated while bleeding using the proper tool to purge the abs unit.
My 2012 Limited has cable clutch, no hydraulic.

[Nooter99]

This may be a dumb question, but like I said before, I'm new to this bike and touring bikes in general. What's a quick way to determine if it has a hydraulic clutch? Is there something I can look for real quick, or does the cover need to come off?

[chaos901]

It will have a reservoir at the clutch handle for the fluid like the front brake lever does.

[Nooter99]

It will have a reservoir at the clutch handle for the fluid like the front brake lever does.

Thank you sir. No reservoir. One less thing I need to learn about!

[PoorUB]

There is nothing to learn on a hydraulic clutch, other than to flush the fluid every  couple  years. Nothing to adjust,  pretty much  forget  it!

[runamuck]

I have an '09 ultra..very similar except no cat. converter. I put recurve windshield and detachable backrest. changed key button off gas lid to just push button. changed cams to se-255 and bought a power vision tuner. I also changed out handle bars to wider and 2" taller because I have long arms. recently replaced all wheel bearings because of so many failing. put 90* valve stems for easier airing of tires. changed out tourpak hinges to heavy duty premium ones because stock ones are weak. also changed out speakers to better, clearer sounding ones. has been a great road bike. very comfortable and motor just putts along at 70-75. the only issue I am trying to resolve is the ABS brakes evidently can fail without warning and there is no fix for them except replace with the same part. having them has saved me a cpl. times but I may have to take unit off and change lines out to end up with standard brakes. didnt think hydraulic clutches were on these bikes till about '14

[tomboyjr]

 My 2010 Ultra was the only Harley I ever bought new. I had to order ABS. It was stock on the Limited.