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Bars out of line on a 2006 RG

Started by Alexintenn, June 15, 2019, 07:50:44 PM

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Alexintenn

I bought a 2006 RG ( yellow, I like it ) this year, 27K miles.  in very good condition.

BUT  when I ride down the road, my left hand is about 2 inches closer to my body that my right hand.  It's not bent bars, this the third set I've had on the bike.

I just took it apart all the way to the neck bearings to check their condition.  They were loose and I wanted to check everything.  I did not replace the neck bearings.  I was very careful when I put everything back together.  Used proper torque every where.  But I did reassemble everything with the front forks in the air and wheel in the air.   My local indi guy says I should loose the bottom triple tree bolts, the fender mounts, and the axle nut and bounce the front end a few times and re torque everything.  But he also commented that I am way out of line.

Has anyone else had a similar problem?   :scratch:



Pirsch Fire Wagon

The older Models can be a PIA occasionally when assembling the Steering Head Bearings. Personally, I usually give it a good five mile shakedown ride (hitting all the bumps) and readjust using the Steering Head Bearing Swing-By as in the Service Manual. Defective Race and/or Bearings can have a negative effect. So long as you inspected and serviced them, I would look elsewhere.

Some things that come to mind is the Vehicle Alignment, Damage to Front End (Forks/Sliders/etc.), Rear Tire & Swing Arm Alignment / Shocks / Bushings would as well describe the issue. Mounting of the Fairing inaccurately can also be interpreted as "something" being amiss. All easily checked using the Factory Service Manual.

Perhaps some damage has occurred to one or more of the area's mentioned.
Tom

Scotty

Maybe you just need to loosen and straighten the risers and bushings that hold the handlebars in place to the triple tree.
That is the first place I would look as if they are out of alignment and have single clamps over the bar then loose and replace with a full width clamp and I reckon the bars will come good.

jmorton10

HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

Chippitt68

Quote from: jmorton10 on June 16, 2019, 01:28:16 AM
rear wheel alignment

~John
I agree. Happened on my 99 road king. Shop put rear tire on and didn't align. Bike 'crabbed'

kd

I would confirm that the risers are in fact OK by measuring from the tip of the bars to the top of the fork tube nut centres with a string.  If that works out, take a fine measurement from the tip of the bars to the centre of the axle with the string.  If not equal loosen off all of the tree fasteners and twist the bars back into position while anchoring the front wheel from movement.  If they are equal lay a +6' straight edge from the rear wheel (about a few inches up the sidewalls) to the front sidewalls.  If the straight edge either hits the front and lifts off of the front sidewall of the rear tire or when held on the rear sidewalk does not equally match the front wheel it may become obvious which way your rear wheel is off alignment.  The axle cam on the side the axle nut is on may be so loose fitting that it does not match the travel on the solid side.
KD

Leed

I haven't had the problem on a Harley but I did on an old Kawasaki.  Put something that is truly flat on the lower forks, like a piece of plate glass and see if it sits flat on the legs.  It should sit flush on both legs.  If not loosen up everything and twist the legs until it sits flush on both and retighten it up.  Check again and redo if it still doesn't sit flush.

Alexintenn

Thanks everyone, I have checked the risers while I had it apart.  You can eye ball the bars against the top triple clamp nut and see if the bars align.  My mechanic told to loosen everything but the top triple and bounce the suspension to see if it will come into alignment.  I've corrected a suspension this way before, but I think I am way too far out for this to be effective.  But I am going to try it.

I didn't mention that the bike tracks perfectly at any speed, even in a fast sweeper.  Which makes this even more puzzling.

I am at the point where I think rear wheel alignment is the problem.  But I just had tires put on at an indi shop with a good reputation

rigidthumper

June 16, 2019, 08:28:56 AM #8 Last Edit: June 16, 2019, 11:17:46 AM by rigidthumper
"I didn't mention that the bike tracks perfectly at any speed, even in a fast sweeper.  Which makes this even more puzzling."
If there isn't any odd wear patterns/indicators on the tires, don't adjust anything but the bars & risers.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

smoserx1

QuoteI agree. Happened on my 99 road king. Shop put rear tire on and didn't align. Bike 'crabbed'

On a 99 there are 3 things that could affect alignment, the top stabilizer link, the front stabilizer link and the axle adjusters.  On this bike you check the real wheel alignment by measuring the distance from the center of the swingarm pivot shaft to the center of the rear axle on both sides and make these measurements equal with the axle adjusters, then set the belt tension by turning the axle adjusters equal amounts.  I got a 2006 touring manual and it looks like the belt tension on it is set with a cam and there is no mention of the rear wheel alignment adjustment, just the two stabilizer links.  Additionally he said his bike tracks true and a rear wheel alignment will absolutely cause a yaw resulting in a crab condition.  Plus the 2 inch visual handlebar difference is huge IMO.

Alignment is easy to check if you have a long enough straightedge.  I have heard those old long fluorescent lights work well, but for God's sake don't break one.


bobrk1

Had a couple  of  bikes  did  that, I  just  turn  to  right and  give  them  a  twist , after  a  while  they  go back