Idle speed 'hold' screw under chrome housing right grip?

Started by starrider, June 22, 2019, 10:48:43 PM

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starrider

Hey Guys...

Just notice that under the right side handle bar chrome housing... between where the two cables come out...the black plastic adjustment screw which holds the throttle cable speed at where you want it...is missing? My bike has been having a flat spot or miss when taking off in first at times. So the question is could having the idle hold screw missing be the cause of this? The bike is an 03 RK...

Thanks in advance... :wink:

Ohio HD


starrider

Thanks Ohio for the quick reply ... i changed back to the HD gold plugs from the
SE plugs...new air filter...have yet to change the wires... wires will be the next thing
to try. The bike started normal...let it idle for 5 minutes under the 80 degree weather
tonight. Then quit...started up again ...drove around neighborhood for short while ...it ran ok?

Riding the another night...as i was making a slow left turn in traffic...it choked...for a second...then continued...not a good thing to happen in a turn...

starrider

Ok...another nice short 25 minute ride...open up the throttle more...as have been advised from neighbor rider...that he thinks i don't  open throttle up enough  to blow out the carbon...So weather is a nice cool  70 degrees at midnite now...no problems this time.

Thinking of switching to champion plugs now...and going to a higher heat range?
If i stick to the present HD heat range which champion plug would be comparable?
And if i went to a higher heat range on this twin cam 88 is that a good idea?
What is a comparable champion plug to the stock heat range HD plug?
What higher heat range champion plug  would  be good?

One more question...about changing the wires...So the tank has to be lifted?
As i understand ...the front bolt has to be loosened and some bolts have to be taken out back of the tank so the it can be lifted a little from the back and pivot on the front bolt? ... giving a little room so the wires can be more easily access? Is there anything else that needs to be addressed before moving the tank?

Panzer

You have to remove the fuel line to remove the tank and some wiring.
Gently lift the tank and look as to what has to be disconnected.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the tank before removal.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

smoserx1

QuoteOk...another nice short 25 minute ride...open up the throttle more...as have been advised from neighbor rider...that he thinks i don't  open throttle up enough  to blow out the carbon...

You really need to quit listening to that neighbor.  And you might want to try going back to some good old 6r12 plugs, but I doubt that is your problem.  One of the trickiest things about any carburetor is that transition zone between idle to off idle.  That is where you are likely to get a lean spot and if you are doing a slow turn (especially a friction zone, rear brake dragging super tight turn) this is where you just cannot have that happen.  You must have reliable low speed power.  Sounds to me like you need to tune your carburetor a bit and all this can be done with slight changes to the idle mixture screw, slow jet size and possibly shimming the needle, but always do these things one at a time and make slight changes.  And no that screw is not the issue.  I have one and IMO it is one of the most useless things ever invented if not potentially dangerous.

chaos901

Removing the tank on '03 requires taking off the crossover fuel line at the bottom front, be prepared for that fuel.  Was having my wife help me one night, told her to put her finger over the tank fitting after I pulled the line off so I could drain the other side into a container.  She was not happy with that suggestion. 

Now if you are just raising the tank from the rear this line does not have to be removed, which is why folks raise the tank from the rear when possible.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Hossamania

Stick with the stock plugs, don't change heat range. What year bike, how many miles, what kind of mods done to the bike (exhaust, air cleaner, carb mods )?
The carberator might need a little rebuild, new accelerator pump, possibly a rip in the slide diaphragm.
I'm a believer that occasionally the throttle should be rotated full open to the stop to keep full range working smoothely, and rpm's allowed to climb up further than normal operation. Don't lug the motor by short shifting during normal operation as a regular practice.
The thumb screw can be replaced, it should at least have the throttle assembly inspected and cables lubed.
I had an issue with left or right turns (can't remember which) in which my headlights but would go out, and come back on when coming out of the turn. I had a broken ground wire in the wire harness at the neck, it's possibly you have a broken wire as well, cutting the ignition momentarily on turns.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

starrider

Hi Guys...The bike is an 03 RK...cv carb...88...stage 1 ... 2003 with V@H mufflers.
It has 40K miles on speedo...with cam chain hydraulic tension upgrade and SE 203
cam installed a year ago.

Hoss i remembered your suggestion about the wires on the frame neck as a possible cause when my lights were shorting...my lighting seems ok now when the H4 bulb
was changed. However...we'll look at those wires again as a possible problem...as we both ride the same bike.

Smoserx1 your... 'lean spot and if you are doing a slow turn (especially a friction zone, rear brake dragging super tight turn) this is where you just cannot have that happen.  You must have reliable low speed power'...was very informative.

Panzer and Chaos 901...Thanks!...gasoline not to be fooled with...

Thanks Everyone...all great guys! :wink:

jrgreene1968

Put a mikuni on it and problem solved  :SM:
The keihin is a good carb, but I do prefer the mikuni.

jamminhd2000

Check for intake leaks at cylinder head and carburetor to intake manifold....simple and cheap check....jimmy

truck

Listen to the jingle the rumble and the roar.

Scotty

Quote from: truck on June 23, 2019, 04:46:16 PM
Put a bigger low speed jet in it.

:agree: or at least check yours doesn't have a partial blockage as all those symptons would suggest it.

Hossamania

Quote from: Scotty on June 23, 2019, 05:55:26 PM
Quote from: truck on June 23, 2019, 04:46:16 PM
Put a bigger low speed jet in it.

:agree: or at least check yours doesn't have a partial blockage as all those symptons would suggest it.

I agree, if it has been working fine all these years, and has just started doing this, find out what has failed. Don't just start throwing parts at it, though new plugs and wires never hurt.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

klammer76

Quote from: Scotty on June 23, 2019, 05:55:26 PM
Quote from: truck on June 23, 2019, 04:46:16 PM
Put a bigger low speed jet in it.

:agree: or at least check yours doesn't have a partial blockage as all those symptons would suggest it.
I was having an issue last year on my 2002 when it was carbed. Talking with Black Hills Ken one day and he suggested checking the low speed for a blockage. When I took it apart last winter, sure enough, some dirt/rust something in the jet.

Dan89flstc

Remove carb, disassemble and clean, replace manifold to cylinder head seals and carb to manifold seals.

Remove petcock, check filter, replace fuel line.
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