Clutch interlock switch wiring and 2 step rev limiter

[anImel]

2016 Street Glide.
I would like to tap into the clutch interlock wiring in order to install 2 step rev limiter activated by this clutch switch.
It appears that the switch doesn't have standard wires but has a ribbon wire going to a small motherboard and then 4 regular wires out of the switch pack for all switches on the pack.

Any idea of how to tap into the clutch interlock circuit either at switch pack output wires or further downstream?
Anyone else install 2 step in late model touring bike?

I may have to replace the banjo bolt with a banjo bolt hydraulic switch. Anyone try this?

[rigidthumper]

When the clutch switch is activated/deactivated, a computer word (on the CAN BUS)  is sent from the circuit board to the Body Control Module.  Software control ( of the CAN BUS) at this point is undeveloped for what you want.

If you want to engineer something, you might be able to use a brake switch/banjo bolt ( from a late model dyna, 72026-08A, ) that could be used as an on/off switch to the rev controller, if the switch would activate from whatever pressure is applied when holding in the clutch lever.

[anImel]

When the clutch switch is activated/deactivated, a computer word (on the CAN BUS)  is sent from the circuit board to the Body Control Module.  Software control ( of the CAN BUS) at this point is undeveloped for what you want.

If you want to engineer something, you might be able to use a brake switch/banjo bolt ( from a late model dyna, 72026-08A, ) that could be used as an on/off switch to the rev controller, if the switch would activate from whatever pressure is applied when holding in the clutch lever.

Thanks, I was able to go out and get one right away. Now just to figure out wiring. My rev limiter has one wire that was suppose to go to stock switch which would activate when clutch pulled in, ground to activate. So I can easily hook up the one wire, but what does the other terminal on the new switch go to? Ground?  also if this works i could easily detach wire or route through another on/off switch to deactivate and use stock switch as normal, it seems.

[rigidthumper]

Yep, ground on one side, connection to rev box on the other. Before I tried wiring it all up, I'd see if the pressure from pulling the clutch in is gonna be enough to activate the rev unit. ( check for resistance across terminals clutch lever out VS lever in)

[anImel]

Switch works great. However, wiring this box seems to be a pain in my butt. only 5 wires! Its either a wiring issue or software issue. It cranks and fires up for about 1-2 seconds then it dies.   I feel it is wired correctly. I haven't even gotten to the rev limiter switch yet. Just trying to get it to run with basic setup first.

See if anyone can see a problem...

So I cut the wires from the ECU to the Coil to wire the box between.
Front Coil = GN/BE
Rear Coil = GY/BE

Instructions say to connect
ORANGE wire to Coil #1 input. I've got this wired to GN/BE wire from ECU.
WHITE/ORANGE wire to Coil #1 output. I've got this wired to GN/BE wire to Front Coil.

YELLOW wire to Coil #2 input. I've got this wired to GY/BE wire from ECU.
WHITE/YELLOW wire to Coil #2 output. I've got this wire to GY/BE wire to Rear Coil.

Red to switched power. - fine.
Black to ground. -fine

Software is asking for
RPM Divider (1-8 pulses per 720 degrees) I had 1.
Number of Coils Connected (1-4) I had 2.
Even or Odd Fire. I had Odd.

It's Sunday. If I can't figure this out I'll be calling Tech Support Monday.