1984 FXSB Rebuild (Partial) Log and Intro to me

[Ohio HD]

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[JW113]

 







-JW

[Hossamania]

That's kind of convenient, no need to heat one and cool the other to get it assembled.

[carioux2008]

Bearing made in India.       

Yes, bearing made in India. Better than China...The bearings on JP Cycles were all made in some asian factory...and I have an SKF sitting on my wokrbench that was also made in China. I got this from comparing the manufacturer part number (R16-2RS) and cross referencing it. Got it and the main transmission bearing from a local bearing/seal supplier; im not complaining.

That's kind of convenient, no need to heat one and cool the other to get it assembled.

Convenient, maybe...until you put a load on it and it ruins the inner primary case. haha. That shaft is always spinning unless your in gear with the clutch pulled in, so I'd rather it be as snug as possible.


On another note, the break rotor thing made me throw the proverbial wrench last night, so I brought it to the local bike shop. Afraid to see what that bill is going to be. Oceana Cycles in VA Beach has really been treating me right, im not one to promote a business, but if your local to hampton roads, his shop is worth a visit. I sure can tell ya where not to go now...but ya'll can message me if thats what you want to hear, I dont want to put anybodies business on the line.

[carioux2008]

Time for an update!

Its fully assembled now!

I ran into an issue getting the primary on, the new nut i got from my indy was thicker than the original and rubbed against the inner primary.

You can see how it started to chew it up a bit

It was resolved by taking a flap wheel and simply grinding down the boss to increase the clearance.

Went on smooth after that.


I had the best helper in the world beside me some of the time! Couldnt have done it without her.


While I was waiting for the parts to come in for the transmission, I did some rewiring...

This was only the beginning. I resoldered the new wires directly to the switches. The headlight one can still be a little finicky, but not worth taking apart again at the moment.
This led to finding loose connectors in the headlight bucket. For some reason, 30 year-old connectors dont have the same elasticity as new ones. haha. My main issue was the turn signals after rewiring the handlebar controls. The female connectors were a little...loose. 20 dollars later from digi-key came 4 new connectors (i ordered spares) and 200 pins to repin it. The 12-pin connectors new and old were compatible with each other, the 6-pin ones were not. Didnt matter because I replaced both ends anyway.




Everything worked great after! Replaced every bulb except the headlihgt as well at this time.

Got the rear wheel back from the shop, they had to machine out the brake bolts because they were so corroded/loctited. I broke 3 normal allen sockets and an impact socket attempting to remove them.


I then went and got both wheels balanced at a local shop and found bad seals on both wheels....So I cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings (front was NASTY) and replaced the seals.


Since the front wheel was off, i decided to replace the shock oil...

Replaced that with some Belray 10wt

While I was working the front end, I found a little reminder of my helper! She does a good job helping daddy!


Not, i did something NOT necessary...and probably a waste of time. haha. Ill let you guess as the pics come up.






This crap sucks.

heat gun and putty knife removed it much easier than paint stripper, wire wheel or flap disk.


And back in the right direction...With the help of Colorite spray cans in HD Vivid Black.



Put one of these in there...wasnt one before

Installed one of these...had to grind out some of the bondo to make it ft right. Really irritated me, and made me wish I had just gotten a 1/4-20 bolt welded on when it was stripped. Dont waste your time if your painting with these inserts.



Im waiting on the paint to harden to wetsand/buff as its an aerosol finish and probably thinner than a traditional paint job. I want to take off as little as possible.
I made a mistake installing the fender...


Found an easy way to tension and align the rear axle without special tools!

Simply tension the belt with the belt side tensioner and align until the belt tracks in the center with the opposite side tensioner. It took a forum post on an Indian motorcycle forum to learn that.

But I got her on the road again!!!


Went for a ride and it was misfiring upon acceleration, checked the plugs when i got home and they looked ok, heat range was a little hot so i swapped them out for some a heat range cooler. Symptoms persisted.

So, I put some new plug wires on it, it seemed the old ones were a little loose in the coil. The SE plug wires from HD are 10mm (irrelevant) and cost the same as the accel plug wires. So i went with those.




Thanks for all the advice on here! Still waiting to do a few minor things before Daytona, but shes essentially done now!!

[Hossamania]

You've been very busy! Looks great, gotta be fun to be back on the road. Have fun in Daytona.

[david lee]

nice.my 80 lowrider is very similar.but i have a fatbob rear guard.still have the original.and low wide bars also stock controls. still got the forwards.im still in the old days.black and chrome,polished alloy

[billbuilds]

     Looks nice. Did you mask the breaker clips (holders) on the rear fender before you painted it? Those breakers do need to be grounded for the system to function properly. Overspray is not helpful there.  Bill

[carioux2008]

     Looks nice. Did you mask the breaker clips (holders) on the rear fender before you painted it? Those breakers do need to be grounded for the system to function properly. Overspray is not helpful there.  Bill

Bill, I did not mask them off. There were painted with multiple layers of paint before i even touched it actually. I'll pull the meter out and check the ground on it when i pull the seat off again for buffing. Thanks for the heads up with that.

[Ohio HD]

Why does the circuit breakers need to see ground? They release from amperage draw between the two terminals.

[billbuilds]

Why does the circuit breakers need to see ground? They release from amperage draw between the two terminals.

     You're right. Not sure    I was thinking.   

[Manostihl]

On the sputhe 5 into 4 I had in my fx there is a spacer that you press into the inner primary for the main shaft. Had a hell of a time trying to find a bearing that was the correct i.d. and o.d. to fit in my 4 speed inner primary. Thatay be the reason that bearing race was left in your inner primary

[carioux2008]

On the sputhe 5 into 4 I had in my fx there is a spacer that you press into the inner primary for the main shaft. Had a hell of a time trying to find a bearing that was the correct i.d. and o.d. to fit in my 4 speed inner primary. Thatay be the reason that bearing race was left in your inner primary

I used the standard deep groove ball bearing listed in the manual and it worked perfectly. The clearance issue was with the main drive gear nut and the case. The bearing used was an oddball size for a Harley, actually, it wouldnt cross to any harley part. Once i ground the case down everything was smooth.

Why does the circuit breakers need to see ground? They release from amperage draw between the two terminals.

     You're right. Not sure    I was thinking.   

Happens to the best of us. I actually dont know how those breakers work, do they work more like a fuse than a breaker?

You've been very busy! Looks great, gotta be fun to be back on the road. Have fun in Daytona.

Thanks, the bike is almost 100%. Just need to buff out the front fender and put a new coil on her. (i may have left the key on by mistake while chasing pixies)

[billbuilds]

     The breakers are designed to trip and stop continuity between the terminals in the event of a short and they're also designed to be self-resetting when the power is shut off. I guess I wouldn't call them a fuse.