HarleyTechTalk

Technical Forums => General => Topic started by: 67msarg3 on August 25, 2021, 11:45:26 AM

Title: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: 67msarg3 on August 25, 2021, 11:45:26 AM
Problem, out of no where, the bike started stalling while letting clutch out in 1st gear, UNLESS you applied lots of throttle. Other symptom is a sound that I don't hear all the (usually in first gear idling) time which mimics an exhaust leak. when that sound starts, that's when it likes to stall.

OK, all of the reading I have done here, the experts seem to agree that it is the clutch switch that causes the bike to stall. My question is, since I bought it used, will Harley still replace the switch for free or is it now out of pocket?

Thanks.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: rigidthumper on August 25, 2021, 11:49:03 AM
Factory warranty is two years, so a 2017 would be out.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: kd on August 25, 2021, 11:52:49 AM
Sidestand safety switch?
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Hossamania on August 25, 2021, 12:26:08 PM
I don't see how a defective clutch or side stand switch would work by giving it more throttle.
Could the exhaust leak sound be an exhaust leak, or a plug wire or other electrical wire shorting out and "sparking" creating that sound?
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: cheech on August 25, 2021, 12:27:32 PM
Have someone competent diagnose it. The clutch switch is safety as far as disallowing the bike to be started if the clutch lever isn't pulled.
Basically only affecting the starting circuit. It doesn't allow the bike to spin over, but wouldn't seem it kills or has anything in the ignition circuit.
It's all fed to the BCM and it's deciding what protocol to follow. So hard to say.
An electrical diagnostics manual for that bike would walk you through the diagnostic procedure for the clutch switch I bet.  :wink:

So I don't see a correlation between the problem subsiding if given enough throttle. If it was the switch no amount of throttle is going to remedy that.
Clutch switch is part of the left hand switch pack, so I don't think the clutch switch alone you can replace due to it being Canbus.

Put the bike in gear, try to start it. Then pull the clutch in with it in gear, try to start it. If it doesn't crank (it shouldn't) without the clutch pulled, but does every time with it pulled. I doubt there is any issue with the clutch switch.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Hossamania on August 25, 2021, 12:32:05 PM
Same procedure with the side stand switch.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Buglet on August 25, 2021, 12:57:23 PM
   The sound you are hearing is probably your EITMS is kicking in and then it's running one one cylinder.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: tomcat64 on August 25, 2021, 01:40:49 PM
once the factory warranty is out,, it's out..

also check to see if you ETMS is "disabled"  If not do it
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: tbird on August 25, 2021, 05:43:46 PM
Don't own anything with a clutch switch. Takes all the humor away. Couple of weeks ago I watched a drunk walk out to his v-rod. Standing next to it on the right side talking "Potty mouth", he reaches out and hits the starter button. Bike launches forward and lands out in the street mufflers up.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: FSG on August 25, 2021, 06:40:03 PM
QuoteTakes all the humor away.

that it does   :hyst:
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Dan89flstc on August 27, 2021, 06:04:39 AM
Quote from: Hossamania on August 25, 2021, 12:32:05 PM
Same procedure with the side stand switch.

The bike in question doesn`t have a side stand switch.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Hossamania on August 27, 2021, 06:07:44 AM
Quote from: Dan89flstc on August 27, 2021, 06:04:39 AM
Quote from: Hossamania on August 25, 2021, 12:32:05 PM
Same procedure with the side stand switch.

The bike in question doesn`t have a side stand switch.

:up:
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Schex3x on August 29, 2021, 04:10:42 AM
Quote from: Buglet on August 25, 2021, 12:57:23 PM
   The sound you are hearing is probably your EITMS is kicking in and then it's running one one cylinder.

This,,,,  the clutch switch also disengages the EITMS
My '17 RG clutch switch stopped working with around 20k miles on it, I removed the clutch handle, sprayed switch with WD-40 and blew with air, worked switch with my finger, sprayed and blew again, bike now has 60k and it's still working.
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: tbird on August 29, 2021, 08:45:08 AM
EITMS what is it? I'm slow
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: Coyote on August 29, 2021, 10:43:24 AM
Quote from: tbird on August 29, 2021, 08:45:08 AM
EITMS what is it? I'm slow

Clicky (https://university.fuelmotousa.com/article/engine-idle-temperature-management-system-eitms/)
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: 67msarg3 on September 17, 2021, 05:55:52 AM
There seem to be more people with this same problem and have recommended replacing the clutch switch. So, I took the original apart and it is the one covered by the TSM for replacement. Since mine is an '17 I didn't think Harley would just send me one so i ordered a new one. Made sure it had the part # recommended in the TSM and I replaced it. Took it for a short ride and guess what...... didn't fix the problem. I also turned off the EITMS (SP?) and that didn't make a difference.

Could the Automatic Compression Relief valve be the issue? I swear this thing sounds just like an air compressor unloading when it starts idling weird. If it is the ACR, would it show any other symptoms in higher gears? I dont think I can ascertain anything different but it sure sounds like a somewhat "dead" cylinder. That doesn't make much sense to me as the thing will haul ass!
Title: Re: 2017 Ultra Classic clutch switch
Post by: hogmandon on September 19, 2021, 07:25:14 AM
I don't have ACRs on my bike only manual CRs but when then engine fires it closes them so maybe your are dirty and don't close properly until you rev the engine up. I think yours are vented in the exhaust port so you might hear then leaking. Try some fuel cleaner to get them to work better and or replace