Looking for an EVO low end cam for a 93" LC, GVW is about 1400#. I need something that will pull from the bottom and I can cruise about 80 MPR, Rpm will be between 3700-4000
I guess there no shovelhead builders any more.
A little more info may provide better advice- What compression, how are the heads set up ( clearance wise, port size, etc), do you have evo style valve train, what ratio rockers, etc. Who did the lower end? 4000 RPM cruising on most shovel motors would require an extremely smooth balance job IMO.
In my 93 I am running an Andrews 7 on Jims (Shovel) lifters with top end evo style oiling with a 44mm CV carb ( I foget the jetting now.) 185 psi cylinder pressure. I think Andrews recommends a (C?) over 88 inches but I'm happy and long done chasing cams.
I know that's not your answer but you could probably look up the equivalent evo arrangement.
I used a V-Thunder SHV-4040 in my 93" torque monster.
But that's not an EVO cam.
I wanted more lift but did not want to change over to EVO valve train as I had already shot my wad on the other upgrades.
And I did not want to go to solid lifters.
Ever thing is S&S so far except the cases, comp. is going to be around 8.5 to 1. Evo style valve train. I'am doing the lower end. Right now the motor is just about stock and it has done 4000 RPM all day I just want to get a little more out of it. I have a BMW about the same GVW that handles 90 MPR no problem and it spoil me.
Quote from: BUGLET on June 05, 2019, 09:51:22 AM
I have a BMW
Beware of the dark side...
And keep your clutch splines lubed! :soda:
8.5:1 and EVO style tappet blocks? Maybe start with an Andrews EV-27.
-JW
Quote from: BUGLET on June 03, 2019, 05:13:39 AM
Looking for an EVO low end cam for a 93" LC, GVW is about 1400#. I need something that will pull from the bottom and I can cruise about 80 MPR, Rpm will be between 3700-4000
What is the compression ratio?
In reply #5, he said 8.5:1.
By the way Buglet, if you speend a lot of time at 75-80mph, might consider dropping the final drive ratio a tad...
-JW
Let it rev, it doesn't hurt them, until you get high enough to open up the big end of the rod.
Look at an Ironhead's RPM at high speeds....
If you gear it up that impacts low rpm areas harder than letting it rev.
Too Low of rpm tends to pound the rollers and doesn't throw as much oil up on the cylinders.
My FLH with the 93 has had a 24T motor, 37T clutch, 23T trans and 48T on the rear wheel (3.217) on basically stock size rubber for years. For this bike and my riding that works the best for loaded fat or just profiling. I've had that wheel sprocket from 51 down to 46. It pulled the 46 but I was shifting ALL the time.
Yes Ironheads spin higher, but they're only 1000cc and 3-13/16" stroke. And they are not typically considered "highway bikes". The point of taking some gear out is that it's a 93" w/ 4-1/2" stroke, and has plenty of torque to pull a taller gear without hurting anything at all. Hell, the later 80" EVO softails were geared 2:94:1 and had no problems pulling that. Mine included. At that gearing, it's 75mph @ 3000rpm. If you ask me, that is easier on the motor than reving the hell out of it for hours on end. And being a rigid mount, easier on your body as well!
-JW
Agree, I always geared my stroker Shovels higher that OEM. OEM 4 speed gearing is on the low side as it is.
The bottom gear ratio is where I usually went with 4 speeds. It's pretty close to where my 124" FLHX is now.
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The bike is a 82 FLT had it since new. The reason of the gear change was to kept the head temperature down. It drop the rear head down 150*. I'am hoping to go back to the stock gearing or I might change to a 6 speed I just have to get a custom main shaft.
Bug, can you explain that? i.e. custom mainshaft? All of the Shovelhead 6 speeds that I'm aware of come as a whole transmission.
-JW
JW I was assuming a four speed bike too, he has an FLT, a five speed.
Got it! But I'm still not getting the mainshaft deal. Don't 6 into 5 setups come as a complete gearset hanging off a trap door?
-JW
On later model five speeds, yes. On this early one, I'm not sure what's available for them.
The main shaft is different also the main drive gear and bearing is different. The only one that make a cassette to fit is Rev Tech. I would like to use an S&S or Baker. I have all three right now I'am working on a transmission case to work with the newer style main bearing and kept the in close rear chain which has being go to me the last 35 years and still has the OEM chain in it with about 90 k on it with only 3 or 4 adjustments on it.