I put a 2002 low mileage ultra engine in a 2000 rking, only thing swapped was the engine. have a whine in the primary. I even swapped a different comp, clutch basket and chain, whine still there. I read something on this forum about shimming to get rid of the whine. What do I shim and where can I get them? Is this common doing an engine swap?
Check the chain alignment, the sprockets need to be in line front to back. You may need different spacers behind the rotor or compensator. Also a new chain tensioner might whine until you get some miles on it.
Its been whining for over 20 thousand miles
Is your chain too tight? Take that square inspection cover and check it hot. There needs to be a little slack even hot. A couple of times I have adjusted mine a little tight cold and it would whine hot. Checked it hot and it had no slack. The stock adjusters in that day had ridges in them sometimes making it impossible to get the exact amount of slack you want. After a little trial and error I prefer to run mine a little on the loose side.
It has been whining for 20k miles? Have you checked the drive belt. They whine pretty good when tight. Those 2000 touring swing arms could be a little tricky to adjust. Make sure the axle is the same distance from the swing arm pivot equal both sides.
MIKE
I doubt it can be the belt, it started immediately when I changed engines, tried totally different comp, chain and clutch, same whine. I didn't touch the rear wheel when I changed engines so that should be eliminated. Has anyone had to shim a comp?
bearing may have gone , as to a chain adjustment to tight at one stage ,if it sounds like a rolling humming noise , thats your problem,make sure your not in gear, or moving, when finding the noise ,
Chain alignment.
How do you align the chain?
QuoteHow do you align the chain?
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=hdmc&a=328&b=22&c=0&d=2000%20FLHR%20TOURING%20ROAD%20KING%AE%20(CARB)%20(FD)%20BELTS%20W/%20CHAINS%20AND%20SPROCKETS
See item numbers 11 and 12 in the illustration? That is the shim you are referring to and that is how you align the chain (by getting the right thickness). Notice all the thicknesses they come in (or used to). Anyway you just have to measure the distance from the comp sprocket and the clutch basket sprocket from some common reference and use the shim thickness to get both distances the same. that is the theory anyway, maybe someone has some hands on experience, which I don't. My bike came with a shim and I have no idea of its thickness, but I can sure see how changing the engine could affect the alignment.
Wonder how many of those extra spacers are even still available from Harley? 03 and after they didn't adjust the stack anymore. Only part number from then on with that style compensator is the .020" piece.
I believe the ones in that illustration that show a price of 0.00 are no longer available. I actually have the parts book for my 99 and it shows all of those plus one that is 0.055 inches thick (pn 35853-96). I guess you just have to buy as many as you need and stack them together. Like I said I know my bike has one and it goes between the item 25 (the shaft extension) and the outside of the rotor. I think I have heard you can get a spacer for the inside of the rotor as well, but I'm not sure. I have had my primary apart a bunch (more than anything else on the bike). You would have thought by now I would have measured the shim, but nope.
Finally got it on lift and adjusted the primary chain, loosened it 1 notch, wasn't tight and wasn't loose. Wine is less than before but still there. Guess will have to live with it. I heard they all do it!!