NEED TO CHANGE THE SHIFTER ARM ON MY WIFES 11 R-KING. ANY OTHER WAY TO DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE PRIMARY?
I think you can get the shift arm out of on 6 speed models without removing primary. Older 5 speed models no.
the shift lever is what i need to change. i think i tried to take it off,but i don't believe there was room.
I replaced one on a 2011 FLHX without issue. I tried to pull one off a 2015 Limited last week to replace it with a Baker lever and there wasn't enough room to get it to slide off.
Quote from: roadkingdresser on December 10, 2018, 04:24:22 AM
the shift lever is what i need to change. i think i tried to take it off,but i don't believe there was room.
We used to take a hacksaw blade and cut part of the way through the lever, then take a screwdriver and break the piece off to remove it. Then use the aftermarket 2 bolt style transmission lever. Takes a little bit but very doable.
Quote from: roadkingdresser on December 10, 2018, 03:03:41 AM
NEED TO CHANGE THE SHIFTER ARM ON MY WIFES 11 R-KING. ANY OTHER WAY TO DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE PRIMARY?
on my 12 steetglide that I bought used from dealer checked out and ready to go ever thing was perfect lol and I have to admit I was naive and trusted them lol learned a few lessons there since then , the damn shifter arm almost fell off . So I called the Harley shop up and asked what the f ok . O that no big deal just tighten it up I got on here I think and ordered a stainless steal unit . I took off the old one on the bike and installed a new lever. Of course in less than 1k miles more like 700 the fn rod bearing started knocking . That was the start of my learning experience on the Harleys and trusting . I pretty much done there . I know who I can and that is that
i'm gonna fix it. i just didn't want to pull the primary if i didn't have to.i just wanted opinions from people that have actually done it. thanks to all. :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
What does your manual say about it? I know on the older bikes like my 03 RK the primary has to come off.
As has been said on some of the newer bikes this is not always necessary.
If you end up pulling the primary change the shifter shaft seal too.
The Baker unit is a good piece just getting it on is work before you even install the bolt and tighten.
I drove a small chisel into the gap to spread it and then set it and removed the chisel and it clamped right down on the shaft.
Mike
really couldn't find anything in the manual. about the only time i actually seen anything as far as the lever was under transmission and the primary was off in the pictures. would definitely replace the seal lf i had to do that.
Quote from: roadkingdresser on December 11, 2018, 03:07:11 AM
i'm gonna fix it. i just didn't want to pull the primary if i didn't have to.i just wanted opinions from people that have actually done it. thanks to all. :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
I have replaced 3 for mates all Road Kings 2007,11 and 14 with the Better Lever https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/ (https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/)
Was able to do all 3 without removing the primary and no cutting required like the 06 and below bikes to get the old lever out.
"Potty mouth" job to do as I always end up with a sore neck trying to look behind the primary :doh:
I know there has to be a procedure-can you fill me in?
Did that Better Lever get even more expensive? I remember it being about $165, now $225. Ouch.
Quote from: roadkingdresser on December 11, 2018, 01:14:11 PM
I know there has to be a procedure-can you fill me in?
On 6 speed bikes, remove the stock clamping bolt and slide the stock lever towards the primary case and off the tranny shaft.
Quote from: Scotty on December 11, 2018, 12:59:41 PM
Quote from: roadkingdresser on December 11, 2018, 03:07:11 AM
i'm gonna fix it. i just didn't want to pull the primary if i didn't have to.i just wanted opinions from people that have actually done it. thanks to all. :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
I have replaced 3 for mates all Road Kings 2007,11 and 14 with the Better Lever https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/ (https://www.betterlever.com/product/better-lever/)
Was able to do all 3 without removing the primary and no cutting required like the 06 and below bikes to get the old lever out.
"Potty mouth" job to do as I always end up with a sore neck trying to look behind the primary :doh:
Yea that's the one that I bought works good
$225 for a shift lever?? :banghead: Freaking crazy!
I would run the stock lever and put a wrench on it once a year. I had the lever loosen up on my 2005 and tightened the bolt well and ran it until I had to pull the primary, then put on a new OEM lever and never had a problem with it. My 2010 I never touched the stock lever other than to put a wrench to the bolt once in a while and put 80,000 miles on it.
Quote from: PoorUB on December 11, 2018, 06:03:52 PM
$225 for a shift lever?? :banghead: Freaking crazy!
I would run the stock lever and put a wrench on it once a year. I had the lever loosen up on my 2005 and tightened the bolt well and ran it until I had to pull the primary, then put on a new OEM lever and never had a problem with it. My 2010 I never touched the stock lever other than to put a wrench to the bolt once in a while and put 80,000 miles on it.
It's only money, it's a one time deal and then it is set and forget.
I don't have one BTW i would rather buy something to eat :potstir:
Quote from: Scotty on December 11, 2018, 06:06:38 PM
Quote from: PoorUB on December 11, 2018, 06:03:52 PM
$225 for a shift lever?? :banghead: Freaking crazy!
I would run the stock lever and put a wrench on it once a year. I had the lever loosen up on my 2005 and tightened the bolt well and ran it until I had to pull the primary, then put on a new OEM lever and never had a problem with it. My 2010 I never touched the stock lever other than to put a wrench to the bolt once in a while and put 80,000 miles on it.
It's only money, it's a one time deal and then it is set and forget.
I don't have one BTW i would rather buy something to eat :potstir:
The OEM is pretty much set and forget too. IMO, this better lever is a repair for a problem that does not exist! For $225 I can put a wrench on it once a year!
The Baker unit is 1/3 the cost and is a tight fit. I don't remember what I paid for OEM last year but I think it was around $60 Can.
Agree about the Baker part. Very nice piece, retails for $72. Maybe cheaper at your favorite shop.
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=106806.msg1269436#msg1269436
On my 2011 RK, the stock lever could be taken off with the inner primary left on. However, when I tried to remove the Baker I put on, the Baker did not have enough clearance to be removed without the inner primary off.
did you have to turn the arm any particular way to get it off? or just spread it and take it off. I did have the bolt out of it earlier in the year and it wouldn't slip off. so I slid it back on and put a new bolt in and it held for a while. I'm goin to pick a new one up sat. and I'll be attempting it soon. thanks.
Every time I do a service, I put a wrench on it. I've got in the habit now. If the lever is loose, it's worth pulling the primary and at that point replace the shift shaft seal while your there. You can do the work for a hell of a lot less than buying the "fix"
I'm surprised mine is still holding after 110,000 miles of hard and fast shifting. I did tighten it up at about 30,000 miles when it loosend up.
I have a pretty good leak from that seal, but it's only been doing it for about ten or fifteen years, so I should probably get after that in the next couple years. It's on my list.
We were on a ride, a new guy with us comes in and says "Hoss, your bike is leaking pretty bad, I don't think you can keep riding it today." I'm assuming it dropped a quart of oil from some catastrophic damage. I walk out and there is a spot about the size of a quarter, another about the size of a dime. I start laughing and tell him that's not a leak, that's just a drip. In an hour it will hit the size of two quarters, it's fine! I also told him he has never ridden with old Shovel bikes, now those things will leave a mark!
Hoss if you're inclined to install the Baker shift arm you might as well replace the shifter shaft seal using SKF, Cometic or James seals, they are all of the double lip type and should end your oil leaking for years.
Armin.
He knows what it needs he's just too damn lazy to fix it, lol
Mike
Quote from: mrmike on December 15, 2018, 10:22:56 AM
He knows what it needs he's just too damn lazy to fix it, lol
Mike
It's like you're right here next to me!
just picked up the shifter arm $19.76 with the discount. Now all I have to do is take time out of my unbusy schedule and change it. Retirement is pretty demanding! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
Quote from: Scotty on December 11, 2018, 06:06:38 PM
Quote from: PoorUB on December 11, 2018, 06:03:52 PM
$225 for a shift lever?? :banghead: Freaking crazy!
I would run the stock lever and put a wrench on it once a year. I had the lever loosen up on my 2005 and tightened the bolt well and ran it until I had to pull the primary, then put on a new OEM lever and never had a problem with it. My 2010 I never touched the stock lever other than to put a wrench to the bolt once in a while and put 80,000 miles on it.
It's only money, it's a one time deal and then it is set and forget.
I don't have one BTW i would rather buy something to eat :potstir:
lol :potstir:
Quote from: Armin on December 15, 2018, 10:09:27 AM
Hoss if you're inclined to install the Baker shift arm you might as well replace the shifter shaft seal using SKF, Cometic or James seals, they are all of the double lip type and should end your oil leaking for years.
Armin.
Hoss's shift arm is tight, so if he is in there to replace the seal, why replace a perfectly good shifter arm? Nothing wrong with the stock one, as long as the bolt is tight. The only time it needs to be replaced is when it gets loose, and even then maybe not. The arm on my '05 came loose, I never checked it. I cleaned it up and tightened the crap out of the bolt and it never came lose again, but I did replace it when I had the primary off for some other issue.
I don't feel there is anything wrong with the stock arm. It just needs the bolt to be tightened. My bet is virtually nobody checks them until they notice that shifting gears is a bit funky, then blame it on the arm that is loose. If they had put a wrench on it 10,000 miles earlier it still would have been tight and maybe never got loose again. My '10 had 82,000 miles on it and never had issues but I put a wrench to it a couple times when doing service, same with my 2016. It says right in the service manual to go around the bike and tighten bolts, but nobody does it, including the dealer.
Quote from: PoorUB on December 15, 2018, 03:19:47 PM
Quote from: Armin on December 15, 2018, 10:09:27 AM
Hoss if you're inclined to install the Baker shift arm you might as well replace the shifter shaft seal using SKF, Cometic or James seals, they are all of the double lip type and should end your oil leaking for years.
Armin.
Hoss's shift arm is tight, so if he is in there to replace the seal, why replace a perfectly good shifter arm? Nothing wrong with the stock one, as long as the bolt is tight. The only time it needs to be replaced is when it gets loose, and even then maybe not. The arm on my '05 came loose, I never checked it. I cleaned it up and tightened the crap out of the bolt and it never came lose again, but I did replace it when I had the primary off for some other issue.
I don't feel there is anything wrong with the stock arm. It just needs the bolt to be tightened. My bet is virtually nobody checks them until they notice that shifting gears is a bit funky, then blame it on the arm that is loose. If they had put a wrench on it 10,000 miles earlier it still would have been tight and maybe never got loose again. My '10 had 82,000 miles on it and never had issues but I put a wrench to it a couple times when doing service, same with my 2016. It says right in the service manual to go around the bike and tighten bolts, but nobody does it, including the dealer.
That's the damn truth lol hell my bike that I bought used really bad idea from the dealer checked out and ready to good , out the door more than likely , the fn shifter lever just about fell off . Of course the splines were bad shape from being run loose for so long. I might of cut off some of the arm and used lock tight and tighten the hell out of it and that may have worked . I did not want to put up with the POS worn out lever so I bought a new one done
Well took time out of my busy schedule this morn.Took the rod off and removed the bolt and slid the shifter arm off. Took a little time to get the new one on,put a new hex head and lock washer on and done. torqued to 28 ft. ib.
Nice! Congratulations, one more thing off the list.
Thanks Hoss. Now if I could just remember what I did with that list!