HarleyTechTalk

Just my opinion on the rods. For what you'll be using the bike for and the motors capabilities, I'd suggest using Darkhorse H-Beam rods. They cost less, and they'll hold up fine, I run them in my 124". Nothing wrong with Carrillo, they make fantastic products. Just that I think they're overkill in all but extreme running motors.

I hope you find the root cause. It sure could be the crank.

So here we are a year and a half later, I'm reviving this thread with an update.

Since the compensator replacement I've been financially struggling and haven't been able to afford to do much investigating, scared of what I might find.  It's been slightly vibrating but rideable, so why mess with it if it's not broke mentality.  I knew the dealership tried to "tune out" the vibration, and this weekend I decided to re-open the case and have the bike dyno tuned.  I figure the retuning would make an improvement or uncover a larger problem.

Unfortunately, it's looking like the uncovered a larger problem.  They found a voltage variation and the vibration increased significantly.  They want to inspect the rotor in case it's lop-sided and hopefully resolve the voltage issue, but they are also going to check the crankshaft runout as well because they're afraid the crankshaft may be "scissored" and separated.  I do feel that this is the core issue, and as expensive as the endeavor is I'm trying to see it as an opportunity for great engine improvements. 

I haven't nailed down much for exactly what improvements I'll be doing, but I'm probably going to be using Dark Horse as it's in the same state that I'm in (the dealership agreed with this is as well) and of course a timken bearing upgrade.  Other than that, depending on cost I might upgrade the connecting rods with lighter weight Carrillo rods.  Much is yet to be decided tho, any recommendations are welcome.

I use the factory locks for the fenders and blue Loctite 243. Until you've had a front fender stop the front wheel and start skidding at 65 mph, you haven't lived. 

Quote from: xlfan on Today at 10:16:34 AM

Quote from: Hossamania on May 05, 2024, 07:14:31 PM

Quote from: smoserx1 on May 05, 2024, 04:39:22 PM

QuoteProbably have to tighten up the bolts. I assume they still put on those lock plate plates where the tab edges get bent over the bolt so they don't come off.

I wonder how many people have left them off, deliberately, from laziness or plain old neglect?

I left mine off, but used picture on the bolts.
Correct procedure? Maybe not, but so far so good (almost 20 years and a lot of miles).

Quote from: Hossamania on May 05, 2024, 07:14:31 PM

Quote from: smoserx1 on May 05, 2024, 04:39:22 PM

QuoteProbably have to tighten up the bolts. I assume they still put on those lock plate plates where the tab edges get bent over the bolt so they don't come off.

I wonder how many people have left them off, deliberately, from laziness or plain old neglect?

I left mine off, but used picture on the bolts.
Correct procedure? Maybe not, but so far so good (almost 20 years and a lot of miles).

You a victim of autocorrect? I wonder if picture should have been Loctite?

Yes, Loctite. Didn't doublecheck after posting.
Stupid autocorrect

Quote from: Hossamania on May 05, 2024, 07:14:31 PM

Quote from: smoserx1 on May 05, 2024, 04:39:22 PM

QuoteProbably have to tighten up the bolts. I assume they still put on those lock plate plates where the tab edges get bent over the bolt so they don't come off.

I wonder how many people have left them off, deliberately, from laziness or plain old neglect?

I left mine off, but used picture on the bolts.
Correct procedure? Maybe not, but so far so good (almost 20 years and a lot of miles).

Quote from: Hossamania on May 05, 2024, 07:14:31 PM

Quote from: smoserx1 on May 05, 2024, 04:39:22 PM

QuoteProbably have to tighten up the bolts. I assume they still put on those lock plate plates where the tab edges get bent over the bolt so they don't come off.

I wonder how many people have left them off, deliberately, from laziness or plain old neglect?

I left mine off, but used picture on the bolts.
Correct procedure? Maybe not, but so far so good (almost 20 years and a lot of miles).

You a victim of autocorrect? I wonder if picture should have been Loctite?

My 07 Road Glide was a victim of this. It broke right under where the MoCo had a zip tie on the wiring harness. Check those areas as well.

Zach

Quote from: rigidthumper on Today at 06:09:07 AMIntake leaks, or bad injector connections, tend to give you one dark plug and one white plug. Given the age of the bike, my recommendation is to do both, since you're gonna be in there checking the wiring- the injector wires on early Delphi rubber mounted bikes tend to break inside the sheathing, usually somewhere between the pin and the harness next to the frame ( last three-four inches of wire). This causes an intermittent connection at first, and eventually leads to a complete misfire on the affected cylinder.

How is starting and idle? Clean that IAC while you're at it.

Intake leaks, or bad injector connections, tend to give you one dark plug and one white plug. Given the age of the bike, my recommendation is to do both, since you're gonna be in there checking the wiring- the injector wires on early Delphi rubber mounted bikes tend to break inside the sheathing, usually somewhere between the pin and the harness next to the frame ( last three-four inches of wire). This causes an intermittent connection at first, and eventually leads to a complete misfire on the affected cylinder.

If the intake seal was leaking wouldn't it be more likely to run lean rather rich? Plug is not wet just blackened. If the injector wire was loose what would be the fix?

Thanks guys. Much appreciated.