Has anyone started to upgrade "hotrod" there bike amps? Blackgates in the right places WILL sound better then OEM!!!!! Sweeter,Louder,Quicker. Different caps for different folks!!!!!!!!! :pop:
I've only tried it once on an amp that the user just had to have, a RF P400x4 which is Class A/B - means heat generation and current draw. The 60a required fuse and 4ga wire to the battery wasn't enough of a clue for him. Called RF support to let them know what we were doing and with what power plant and they suggested their own 2f cap so that got installed but really didn't help. Every time the bass hit, his lights dimmed and voltage gauge dropped significantly. The first time that HOT amp (trunk mounted) melted the pull down lens on his helmet he had enough and swapped it with a Class D amp.
I will say that most people will listen to reason when they come to you and say "hey I want this because I heard it's the bestest thing in the world" and you talk them out of fantasy land and back into reality. Some, just haven't a clue.
Wow.. 400 watt class a/b biased amp should be max 40.4 Amp's. Almost sounds as if it was closer to class c. And if the 400 was total max power it was only a 314 watt true RMS Amp. I would have called too... as 30 amp's should more then covered it with a cap in line as a buffer.
Quote from: Latrobedyna on June 17, 2016, 09:05:22 PM
Wow.. 400 watt class a/b biased amp should be max 40.4 Amp's. Almost sounds as if it was closer to class A. And if the 400 was total max power it was only a 314 watt true RMS Amp. I would have called too... as 30 amp's should more then covered it with a cap in line as a buffer.
I wanted to correct my statement and say class A biasing