I recently found this post on the Shovelhead forum and it describes exactly how my bike runs. Difference circumstances but the poster nailed a description of how the bike acts.
1) unstable (not strong) idle
2) super smooth at lower RPM's
3) lot of vibration at mid to upper RPM without much in the way of power to show for it
4) cannot MAKE this bike ping, I tried
The Harley service manual that I have says anything after 1980 timing spec is: idle 5 BTDC and advanced 35BTDC.
I did a search and found 1983 and 1984 specs were 8 and 40BTDC.
Bike has very good compression F-147 lbs and R-149 lbs. Spark plugs are clean. I am getting 31 MPG. Carb jetting seems best all around at .0295 and .072.
I installed a Dyna S ignition when the new to me bike seemed to run as it was not advancing with original ignition.
One other question: to advance timing I turn the sensor plate clockwise or counter clockwise?
Any help appreciated.
Walt, double check you static time it to the top dead center mark . If you time it on the advance mark it will run but not right. I have made this mistake myself. To advance the timing turn the ignition plate clockwise.
This the post that described how my bike runs:
I was Retarded
04-30-2019, 07:21 AM
Actually, I'm retarded most of the time, but when my bike had a bad head gasket that was leaking oil into the chamber that caused pinging really bad, in trying to get rid of the pinging I retarded the timing a bunch, and still it pinged badly. Soon after I fixed the HG and all has been good since.
One thing I didn't do was move the timing back to where it should be completely, so I've been running retarded for a while now. This caused my engine to run SUPER smooth down low, idle was fine, just not snappy and felt like the last 1/3rd throttle was just for noise, and the motor shook a lot at high RPM's.
Anyways, I've advanced the timing, just a degree or 3, and WOW! What a difference! Now the engine is snappier off the bottom (until I spin my accelerator pump spray bar 180 degrees, I have it turned off, so no accelerator pump action) and the idle is more stable, and best of all, at high freeway speeds where my engine shook and felt like I was buzzing it too hard, it now has smoothed out and runs smoother than ever before and I can rev it higher without excessive shaking.
I'm not retarded any more! Yay! I'm Special!
The best part is my wrists and hands don't go numb as much any more. That shaking on the freeway made my hands go numb after a while, and while I DO need to find new bars that are a better fit for me, things are WAY better with less vibration.
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I have a 1980 shovel with dyna s single fire ignition. When I installed this system I also purchased the riveara stainless steel advance weight assembly. The previous system was points and the weight assembly was worn out.
To time the way I do it you will need a variable timing light this type of light allows you to zero in on the timing spec.
I find TDC #1 compression. I remove the primary chain adjusting plate, clean the oil off stator rotor and inner primary cover in an area that is easy to view. Make the mark on the rotor and the inner primary together. Hook up the timing light start the engine and adjust the light so the marks line up. This will be your idle timing. Adjust as needed. It can get messy especially revving for total time. Good quality weight set ups are pretty much close to the 38-40 deg total advance.
I time this way because the timing plug is often stuck and I don't want to strip the case.
MIKE
Thanks,
The outer primary is coming off to replace the belt so it will be a perfect time to paint the marks.
While you have the outer off install this. I was reluctant because of the price for a piece of tin but it's a one time purchase and it makes it as easy to time as an old small block Chevy
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device
Quote from: crock on May 04, 2019, 05:59:40 AM
While you have the outer off install this. I was reluctant because of the price for a piece of tin but it's a one time purchase and it makes it as easy to time as an old small block Chevy
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device
That works! When you don't have a new fang-old timing light :up: :up:
Quote from: MIKEL on May 04, 2019, 06:04:37 AM
Quote from: crock on May 04, 2019, 05:59:40 AM
While you have the outer off install this. I was reluctant because of the price for a piece of tin but it's a one time purchase and it makes it as easy to time as an old small block Chevy
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device
That works! When you don't have a new fang-old timing light :up: :up:
Ditto - little tip, paint the TDC and 35 deg adv pointers and the mark you put on the rotor bright red. Much easier to find.
Quote from: 96flhpi on May 04, 2019, 07:44:19 AM
Quote from: MIKEL on May 04, 2019, 06:04:37 AM
Quote from: crock on May 04, 2019, 05:59:40 AM
While you have the outer off install this. I was reluctant because of the price for a piece of tin but it's a one time purchase and it makes it as easy to time as an old small block Chevy
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device
That works! When you don't have a new fang-old timing light :up: :up:
Ditto - little tip, paint the TDC and 35 deg adv pointers and the mark you put on the rotor bright red. Much easier to find.
Agree, and I would use white for TDC and red for the 35° to keep it clear to me. :teeth:
Asking out of Curiosity Only. I HAD Looked at These in the Past, (Many Years ago), and Thought I Remembered SOMETHING Strange about these, so I Looked them up on the V-Twin Site, (VT No: 16-1736) and They List Them as Only Fitting from Roughly 70 - 78 Model Years. Is This an Indication they ONLY fit Point Style Ignitions, or a Possible Misprint? I Didn't get one Myself, as it Really Isn't all that Difficult to Time my 84 FLHX. Like I say, More Curious than a Serious Buyer, at THIS Time anyways.
THANKS in Advance for Any Info.
ME
I've got one on my '82 and the TDC and 35 adv pointers matched the corresponding marks on the flywheel just fine.
Well, That's Interesting. THANKS for the Reply 96, I LOVE Edumacation! :wink: :up: :up:
ME
I bought a dial back timing light from harbor freight.
Thank all
Trying to set the timing alone with a light is a pain at best when you try an do it alone. I have been static timing everything for quite some time now. I static set and then put a light on it and found that it was easier to just static time it. On my EVO I just this year did the remote marker by drilling a hole in the timing plate and notching the rotor at TDC, borrowed some of my wifes brightest nail polish to mark the spot. It worked well but it's makes it a little harder if you want to get picky and try and degree your timing.
Whats wrong with the timing hole HD put in place. Left side on the bottom end between the two cylinders.
I can't see snot with the clear plastic plug in place. I tried without the plug and it is an oily mess.
Years ago when I first started here, someone mentioned polishing that plastic plug with jeweler's rouge to clean it up, making it easier to see through. Some of these new cleaners for plastic headlights might work as well.
If static timing the ignition is good enough for aircraft engines it's good enough for my Shovel. A 3/8 dia hole drilled in the points mounting plate at about 7:00 gives access to one of the weights so you can pull it with a scribe to the full advance position.
If you have a points ignition, and wish to static time, this is a great tool. I've had one of these since 1980, and use a volt ohm meter with a buzzer or beep. If you have a Dyno S, it's easy enough to just hold it in full advance while turning the plate till the plug sparks.
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Found this on here
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device
Made a stand for my light and rubber band an endoscope to the light and done
Quote from: waltcentral on June 02, 2019, 02:16:18 PM
I can't see snot with the clear plastic plug in place. I tried without the plug and it is an oily mess.
cut a piece of fuel hose and put it lightly against the flywheel, it will scrape the oil off.
I wish I thought of that