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noise in primary

Started by zoot, July 21, 2019, 11:47:58 AM

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zoot

Had a not good sounding noise coming from primary side. I had just done a new compensater and clutch hub end last summer. I also did a baker second gen primary chain adjuster maybe a few years earlier.The first gen I had bent,bad.They replaced with this one, which is bent ,twisted bad and chain wore a deep grove in pad piece because of the bend and twist.
What I am thinking of doing is taking the stock auto adjuster putting in and getting about 5/8 slop and tack welding the slider to the base on both sides.
Question is should I include the space the slider springs have compressed or just go to the springs before they compress? Or do something in between?
I read about doing this somewhere but couldn't find it. Don't think its a big deal if you need to make a later adjustment, grind the tacks off, make adjustment and re-tack. Maybe when I rebuild this winter I'll get a SE manual adjuster or I think V-twin has one like that.  thanks Walt

FXDBI

I marked and tacked my stock unit (2006 dyna)  50,000 km ago. Needs to be reset now so I will break the tacks and do it again.  I just set it and marked it in its stock configuration. Removed tacked and replaced.  Bob

rbabos

Quote from: zoot on July 21, 2019, 11:47:58 AM
Had a not good sounding noise coming from primary side. I had just done a new compensater and clutch hub end last summer. I also did a baker second gen primary chain adjuster maybe a few years earlier.The first gen I had bent,bad.They replaced with this one, which is bent ,twisted bad and chain wore a deep grove in pad piece because of the bend and twist.
What I am thinking of doing is taking the stock auto adjuster putting in and getting about 5/8 slop and tack welding the slider to the base on both sides.
Question is should I include the space the slider springs have compressed or just go to the springs before they compress? Or do something in between?
I read about doing this somewhere but couldn't find it. Don't think its a big deal if you need to make a later adjustment, grind the tacks off, make adjustment and re-tack. Maybe when I rebuild this winter I'll get a SE manual adjuster or I think V-twin has one like that.  thanks Walt
Set it 3/4" total with springs compressed. If you set it to 5/8" total and you have a spastic idle the tensioner will slap the stop when the primary is hot as the expansion tightens the chain to the point the is running out of shoe spring. Sounds just like a comp knock and I'm sure a lot of comp complaints come from that tensioner set one click too snug because it's almost tradition to poke a finger in there and give it that little extra click be it owners or dealers. The clunking often happens from a poorly set up warmup table , first started fine but where it transitions off of the table to a slightly heat soaked IAT giving a leaner then normal mixture for smooth idle. Once the O2 sensors kick in, in a few seconds the engine smooths to a better AFR and the tensioner clunk goes away. Just something for you to be aware of when setting it up for manual. I would not consider removing the shoe springs either. I tried that and set it to cold setting and all good until you load the shoe under decel loads. Whines like an angry bitch without the springs in there.
Ron

zoot

Ok thanks for the info on the spring.I measured what I have now (not tacked yet) and for what I could measure by my self I have not quite 1/2 before spring and 3/4+ with spring compressed.When my boy stops by  I;ll get him to help and get a better measurement.  Thanks again Walt

1workinman

Quote from: rbabos on July 21, 2019, 03:46:21 PM
Quote from: zoot on July 21, 2019, 11:47:58 AM
Had a not good sounding noise coming from primary side. I had just done a new compensater and clutch hub end last summer. I also did a baker second gen primary chain adjuster maybe a few years earlier.The first gen I had bent,bad.They replaced with this one, which is bent ,twisted bad and chain wore a deep grove in pad piece because of the bend and twist.
What I am thinking of doing is taking the stock auto adjuster putting in and getting about 5/8 slop and tack welding the slider to the base on both sides.
Question is should I include the space the slider springs have compressed or just go to the springs before they compress? Or do something in between?
I read about doing this somewhere but couldn't find it. Don't think its a big deal if you need to make a later adjustment, grind the tacks off, make adjustment and re-tack. Maybe when I rebuild this winter I'll get a SE manual adjuster or I think V-twin has one like that.  thanks Walt
Set it 3/4" total with springs compressed. If you set it to 5/8" total and you have a spastic idle the tensioner will slap the stop when the primary is hot as the expansion tightens the chain to the point the is running out of shoe spring. Sounds just like a comp knock and I'm sure a lot of comp complaints come from that tensioner set one click too snug because it's almost tradition to poke a finger in there and give it that little extra click be it owners or dealers. The clunking often happens from a poorly set up warmup table , first started fine but where it transitions off of the table to a slightly heat soaked IAT giving a leaner then normal mixture for smooth idle. Once the O2 sensors kick in, in a few seconds the engine smooths to a better AFR and the tensioner clunk goes away. Just something for you to be aware of when setting it up for manual. I would not consider removing the shoe springs either. I tried that and set it to cold setting and all good until you load the shoe under decel loads. Whines like an angry bitch without the springs in there.
Ron
Thanks Ron I in the process of doing that now and I was not sure as when you measure if you put pressure one the chain it will cause the tensioner to compress a tad I waiting on one more part and I install and check one more time and tack with a tig at work . When I pulled it down the chain was plenty snug. This has been a learning experience lol 

tc1550

I just installed a twin power unit in my 2014  fxdwg 117 no issues works great no issues little pricey but works as intended no complaints as of yet .

Scooterfish

Rotate and check the chain slack in a couple places before tacking.
Northern Indiana

rbabos

Quote from: tc1550 on August 16, 2019, 05:34:39 AM
I just installed a twin power unit in my 2014  fxdwg 117 no issues works great no issues little pricey but works as intended no complaints as of yet .
3/4" with shoe fully compressed measured on a pull up, not push down method. Shoe spring will compress either direction of chain movement. This factors in the roughly 1/8-3/16 of natural chain sag at the same time. Dimension on push down will not be the same, so keep that in mind.  For me, it use to work out to about 1/2"-5/8" of light free play and the additional came from the shoe spring. 3/4" full compression on shoe seemed to work best. If I recall correctly and it's been a long time now, the shoe spring will offer about 3/8"
Ron