M8 lifter tappet cuff bolt removal tips

[Jamie Long]

We get a lot of customers asking about potential issues when removing the bolts that retain the factory plastic lifter cuffs on Milwaukee 8 engines. It is very common to replace these cuffs with aftermarket billet cuffs like the ones offered from S&S Cycle. Unfortunately there is an overabundance of loctite on these bolts and some (including ourselves) have broke the bolts off in the engine case; Ugh!

Fortunately we've found an effective, easy step which has eliminated the issues we were encountering. Once we have the cam chest disassembled we use a heat gun to heat the engine case from the inner camchest side (as shown in the image below), it only takes about 5 minutes of heat and the bolt's screw out with ease.

Not revolutionary or rocket science by any means, just a quick tip that may save on some headaches.

[fairlydangerous1]

This should probably be a "paste" on most of the forums. Thanks Jamie.

[1workinman]

Thanks for sharing

[Maddo Snr]

Good tip Jamie, thank you. 

[IronButt70]

Always find a new use for what we used to call in the marine industry a smoke wrench. 

[klammer76]

Thanks Jamie. I saw it on your FB page also.

This should be a sticky in the M8 section.

[Moparnut72]

When I worked in the aircraft shop we replaced the heat gun on a regular basis. It was in constant use. The Makita was the one that lasted the longest.

On a side light I wonder if HD has stock in a thread locking manufacturer. They seem to use that stuff on everything. Is that to prevent the Waddington Effect from striking?     

[BVHOG]

Steve (GMR) had brought this up on here a while back and he uses a bit of penetrating oil on the bolt after breaking them loose and then working back and forth a bit. In my experience they turn out a turn or two before becoming  "bound up". They remind me of the IAC bolts on the early twincams

[cmashark]

I was thinking about starting the cam swap while the engine was hot.  Cut the pushrods and remove the lifter blocks/guides, then wait till it cools before moving on.  I've only done one M8 cam swap, so far, and didn't have any issues. I don't remember if I used blue or red locktite... probably red when I reassembled it.  Are the shops studding them or reusing the bolts?  I've always bought new bolts for the cam and crank when doing twin cams and the one M8.

Edit:  I guess I can't spell.

[JMHD]

When the M8 first came out the factory told us as a tech tip that when you work on the engine you should ride it first to get it hot to ease the removal of the loctited bolts.

[BVHOG]

When the M8 first came out the factory told us as a tech tip that when you work on the engine you should ride it first to get it hot to ease the removal of the loctited bolts.

Using that logic then there would be no need for loctite in the first place, unless they are worried about bolts backing out when the bike is sitting cold

[JMHD]

It does sound funny, same principal as the heat gun i guess. Just gotta work fast and burn your hands. lol

[les]

Thank you, Jamie.

[HD/Wrench]

Steve (GMR) had brought this up on here a while back and he uses a bit of penetrating oil on the bolt after breaking them loose and then working back and forth a bit. In my experience they turn out a turn or two before becoming  "bound up". They remind me of the IAC bolts on the early twincams

   You have guys that do not own a heat gun , and most guys have some sort of penetrating oil in the shop   KISS . HA HA