S&S Hi4n ignition question with v111

[misfitJason]

I had the motor running decently well with the Dyna s ignition. But my coil had a crack in it and the bike would intermittently stall at idle.  So I decided to upgrade to a S&S hi4N ignition kit. I wired up the kit per the directions and added a voes to the bike. The wiring for the voes goes to the purple wire on the ignition and the other wire I have grounded to the top motor mount. It was brand new and the ignition kit is also brand new.

The coil has the bike's 12 volt power going to the center stud and the white wire from the ignition. The pink and blue wires go to the outside posts. And of course the tube for the voes goes to the s&s intake for my super e carb.

I static timed it by rotating the rear wheel until I felt air rushing out of the front cylinder spark plug hole. Then I looked for the advanced timing mark and then the tdc mark. I rotated the plate counterclockwise and then clockwise until the red light went out.

My trimpots are from top to bottom mode 0 for race, single fire, single spark, electric start. Advance set to mode 2 and the rev limit is set to 5500.

I started her up and she sounds like absolute "Potty mouth". Like it's completely firing at the wrong time. And shakes. It gets better when the throttle is applied but when I ride her around the block the idle hangs up waaay high and takes a while to come back down. I thought maybe I had the timing statically wrong and redid it. No change. I changed the wires on the coil figuring maybe the cylinders were firing at the wrong time. No change

The timing cup I used when switching from the Dyna s is the appropriate gold one for the evo and it is not canted when assembled. Any other ideas? Do I have to ground the voes when I static time it to make the light go off at a different time. I even tried to adjust it with a regular timing light but it wasn't lighting up right.

[Tynker]

Try timing it from the rear cylinder......

[Burnout]

Reversed plug wires?

I'd time it with a light, the static deal is just to get it running so you can get a light on it.

As an alternative to getting an oil bath, open the primary inspection cover and paint mark the rotor for a reference mark for your timing light.

[misfitJason]

I have an open belt drive on this bike so it will be easy to see with the light if I could get the light to work.

[Ironheadmike]

You are 180 off .

[misfitJason]

I don't believe it's 180 off.  As I am rotating the flywheels I stop as soon as I feel the air coming out of the spark plug hole on the front cylinder.  Then I start hunting for my marks. Frist comes rear advance mark and then the front advance mark.  Then my TDC mark.  I static timed it there.  Then when I am timing with the standard timing light I am using the advance mark (30 degrees on this motor). 

I replaced the timer cup. No change

I did get it to time with a different light as the one I was using was broken. Even with getting the advance mark timed it still idles like "Potty mouth". Really rough. And I had to advance the plate real far forward (advanced) in order to get it there. Any other suggestions. I am about ready to take this ignition off and put back on my Dyna S.

[wfolarry]

You have to ground the VOES wire when you use the timing light.
When I static time them I rotate the wheel to where the TDC mark first appears in the hole. Then rotate the timing plate like you described. This will get you real close. You can then fine tune it with the timing light if you want.

[thumper 823]

You are 180 off .

Feeling the air starting to come out is just the beginning of the stroke.
There is a lot of travel left towards the top.
PLUS HD has used many different marks for TDC over the years..
The only real way AFAIAC is to use a degree wheel.
But to simplify this - stick something soft dwn the plug hole (pipe cleaner, straw etc)
In 4t gear, as it starts to push air out keep your fingers on the straw and monitor
the piston travel to the top.
After a little practice, you will be able to to tell where it is at the top most point -NOW look for the
mark in the flywheels.
It will be close to that point.
You may have to turn tire and flywheels back and forth a fudge to est the reference.