2000-2500 rpm

[Chippitt68]

.140. I asked Larry and that was his recommendation

Mine is noisy when set that deep. .090" is the sweet spot on mine, you might try it 

I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[Hossamania]

To all with some lingering top end noise... Spectro 25-60 NON SYNTHETIC oil.
You'll thank me.
Really.

I should try it, but I tend to not change oil overly often, and ride in winter when temps get down to 20° or so, I don't think my starter would care for it.

I'm guessing you're running 20-50 now? That extra 5 gonna kill ya? 

I'm thinking more the difference in flow rates at that temp between dino and syn. That dino gets thick and syrupy, the syn at least pours out of the container.

[shindig]

Why does the most valvetrain noise happen in this rpm range? What is the inherent issue in twin cams that makes them noisy at these rpm. Why are some noisy and some not?

You are lugging the motor at those rpms....  You should cruise close to 3k rpm.

I don't cruise in that range. I do however occasionally run through that range on my way to 3000rpm.

Sure.....in 1st gear only.....after that you shouldn't go below around 3k...

[rigidthumper]

Why does the most valvetrain noise happen in this rpm range? What is the inherent issue in twin cams that makes them noisy at these rpm. Why are some noisy and some not?

You are lugging the motor at those rpms....  You should cruise close to 3k rpm.

I don't cruise in that range. I do however occasionally run through that range on my way to 3000rpm.

Sure.....in 1st gear only.....after that you shouldn't go below around 3k...

Do you collect speeding tickets?
3000 RPM on my 2010 in first gear was 25 MPH and the local PD frown upon that in a 5 MPH school zone 


Seriously, if they make a product that is supposed to operate from 1 to 10, and then say " Only use from 3-7", that sounds like a sales tactic to avoid warranty issues, or a design flaw.

[PoorUB]

Why does the most valvetrain noise happen in this rpm range? What is the inherent issue in twin cams that makes them noisy at these rpm. Why are some noisy and some not?

You are lugging the motor at those rpms....  You should cruise close to 3k rpm.

I don't cruise in that range. I do however occasionally run through that range on my way to 3000rpm.

Sure.....in 1st gear only.....after that you shouldn't go below around 3k...

So you ride in first gear in town?

Nothing wrong with riding in 3rd gear at 2,000 RPM if just riding easy. On the highway keep it above 2,500 RPM.

[Kllongbrake]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

[szunker]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

[szunker]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

or this one also: https://www.woodcarbs.com/rocker.htm

[Chippitt68]

It's definately possible. I've checked mine and I don't see signs of contact. I'm not sure how much contact would need to be present to cause a rattle? I have a set of tubes that have been clearanced and when I get them in, I'll let you know if it helps. I'm beginning to think it's a combo of things. Lifter bore clearance, oil aeration and and rocker arm bushings.

[Kllongbrake]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

or this one also: https://www.woodcarbs.com/rocker.htm

What's the plan to clearance the rocker shafts for the .030 offset? Does your lift or valve stem protrusion warrant the investment? I'm going to try some known good used (S&S premium)lifters this evening. See if maybe one has a problem. Everything else seems to be okay. Tubes are bored to 5/8" top to bottom. Originally I'd only went half way. There appeared to still be some contact so finished them off. Still rattles though. Sounds more solid then a pushrod tube anyway. I'd swear something was rattling on the pipe heat shield....but it's not. Gets worse at full temp too.

[kd]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

or this one also: https://www.woodcarbs.com/rocker.htm

What's the plan to clearance the rocker shafts for the .030 offset? Does your lift or valve stem protrusion warrant the investment? I'm going to try some known good used (S&S premium)lifters this evening. See if maybe one has a problem. Everything else seems to be okay. Tubes are bored to 5/8" top to bottom. Originally I'd only went half way. There appeared to still be some contact so finished them off. Still rattles though. Sounds more solid then a pushrod tube anyway. I'd swear something was rattling on the pipe heat shield....but it's not. Gets worse at full temp too.

You haven't said what lift or rockers you are using.  When you take the rocker covers off check "real close" for contact signs on the rocker tip or in the cover.  If it's just a click and not a heavy CLACK it may not leave a mark.  If it's OK cold and gets worse as it heats up especially.  Before you pull the rocker stands and pushrods clay the rocker tips and reassemble to check.  The covers or boxes may only need a little clearanceing. 

[Kllongbrake]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

or this one also: https://www.woodcarbs.com/rocker.htm

What's the plan to clearance the rocker shafts for the .030 offset? Does your lift or valve stem protrusion warrant the investment? I'm going to try some known good used (S&S premium)lifters this evening. See if maybe one has a problem. Everything else seems to be okay. Tubes are bored to 5/8" top to bottom. Originally I'd only went half way. There appeared to still be some contact so finished them off. Still rattles though. Sounds more solid then a pushrod tube anyway. I'd swear something was rattling on the pipe heat shield....but it's not. Gets worse at full temp too.

You haven't said what lift or rockers you are using.  When you take the rocker covers off check "real close" for contact signs on the rocker tip or in the cover.  If it's just a click and not a heavy CLACK it may not leave a mark.  If it's OK cold and gets worse as it heats up especially.  Before you pull the rocker stands and pushrods clay the rocker tips and reassemble to check.  The covers or boxes may only need a little clearanceing.

Standard HD rocker arms and 590 lift. I'm pretty certain they're not hitting the box. Would think they would have from the start. It's a definite rattle starting around2300 not a click or tick.

[Chippitt68]

But what is the rattle actually coming from in that 2300-2800rpm range? Is it a  lifter rattling? My 124 starting rattling in this range after about 250 miles. Rockouts, S&S premium, SE Tapered PR's. I can't figure it.

Mine does the same thing , I think its the pushrods hitting the top of the pushrod tube.
Im thinking about trying the .030 offset rocker arm support to move the rocker arm over to center of the pushrod tube.  See: http://protwin.com/highperformancebilletrockerarmsupports.aspx

or this one also: https://www.woodcarbs.com/rocker.htm

What's the plan to clearance the rocker shafts for the .030 offset? Does your lift or valve stem protrusion warrant the investment? I'm going to try some known good used (S&S premium)lifters this evening. See if maybe one has a problem. Everything else seems to be okay. Tubes are bored to 5/8" top to bottom. Originally I'd only went half way. There appeared to still be some contact so finished them off. Still rattles though. Sounds more solid then a pushrod tube anyway. I'd swear something was rattling on the pipe heat shield....but it's not. Gets worse at full temp too.

You haven't said what lift or rockers you are using.  When you take the rocker covers off check "real close" for contact signs on the rocker tip or in the cover.  If it's just a click and not a heavy CLACK it may not leave a mark.  If it's OK cold and gets worse as it heats up especially.  Before you pull the rocker stands and pushrods clay the rocker tips and reassemble to check.  The covers or boxes may only need a little clearanceing.

Kd, if the rockers were making contact, wouldn't they be making contact all the time? Even if the motor has to get hot for the contact to occur, once it reaches that temp, why only in that rpm range?

[kd]

I had a rocker cover that would warp when it heated up. The contact was not hard enough to leave a mark but after removing it a couple of times it became obvious there was a blackish smudge mark above the intake rocker.  A little touch up with a dremel on that spot (a frustration guess) fixed it.  The cover eventually began to seep at the gasket and the new one didn't make any noise so I figure it was the heat warping the top surface.

[Chippitt68]

Thanks

[Kllongbrake]

I'm back in there tonight and still getting witness marks top and bottom on the pushrods even though they're bored to 5/8". Maybe that's the rattle? 

[Kllongbrake]

I had a rocker cover that would warp when it heated up. The contact was not hard enough to leave a mark but after removing it a couple of times it became obvious there was a blackish smudge mark above the intake rocker.  A little touch up with a dremel on that spot (a frustration guess) fixed it.  The cover eventually began to seep at the gasket and the new one didn't make any noise so I figure it was the heat warping the top surface.

KD, when you were looking for what you found to be rocker top box contact with the arms was it a rattle that started around low 2000's and either went away in the upper range or couldn't hear it due to exhaust? Difficult to replicate on the lift table? It sounds much louder while riding then if I just rev while on the table. Maybe due to the speed at which an unloaded engine passes that range? When I stethoscope (one with a long aluminum rod) I really can't hear it when I touch the engine in various places. I can hear the valve springs as  faint tick ,much louder without the scope. They're high seat pressure. This is getting very frustrating. I'll pull the front rocker box top again tonight and clay the arms and clearance if needed.

Thanks to all for your advice. Sorry chippitt if I butted too far into your thread. It seems to be the same you're dealing with though.