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Compensator Confusion

Started by Nooter99, May 30, 2019, 10:03:19 PM

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Nooter99

May 30, 2019, 10:03:19 PM Last Edit: May 30, 2019, 10:08:17 PM by Nooter99
Just bought a 2010 Ultra. Been reading a lot about the compensator issues. But to be honest,  my head is spinning from information overload.

If you were about to put a new compensator assembly in your own bike, what would you be buying. What brand, Harley vs. Baker? Would you put a new rotor in there too?

Just looking for a simple explanation of the parts you would buy with the greatest confidence.

One more question. What is the most reliable brand and type of primary chain tensioner?

I just want to do it all at one time and walk away with a reasonable amount of confidence that I won't have any problems going forward.
Better to die a million dollars in debt, than with a million in the bank!

thumpr54

If you spend a little time searching here you'll find everything you wanna know.....if you use the Baker Comp you'll have to change the rotor. Baker also has their adjuster that does not auto adjust...some weld the factory adjuster after seeing where it needs to be set. Harley's comps went thru several versions before they got it right...also have to 'glue' an oil deflector to the inside of the outer cover in the SE version.....not sure of price on theirs or if you have to replace the rotor but someone here will know.
growing old is mandatory-growing up is optional
355 AMS(TAC)DMAFB 73-76 VFW6774

rigidthumper

I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate. 
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

kd

 :agree:  Also read this thread and follow the instructions before installation.  The proper stack height is important to quiet operation.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=82010.msg917659#msg917659
KD

Ohio HD

Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

^^^  ^^^  ^^^ 
THIS  THIS THIS

chaos901

The new compensators also don't have the hex bolt holding them on, they require a large male TORX.  Had to go find that socket to change my first one of those.  Don't recall the size sitting at the office.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Nooter99

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 31, 2019, 05:18:21 AM
Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

^^^  ^^^  ^^^ 
THIS  THIS THIS


That's pretty much the exact answer I was looking for. Thanks Rigid (and Ohio)
If it all goes horribly wrong and the bike explodes, can I blame you guys?  :SM:  :SM:
Better to die a million dollars in debt, than with a million in the bank!

kd

 :up:   remember to read post #3.  It may save you redoing the install after you notice a rattle or kickback.   :wink:
KD

rigidthumper

I offer a 50/50 warranty on all my advise- If it breaks in half, you may keep both pieces :teeth:
Or
If it all blows apart, you most certainly can blame Ohio :)
Your choice :smiled:
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Nooter99

Is it correct that a sure sign of a worn compensator is a really clunky shift out of neutral into first? Like I said, this is my first bagger, coming from several Softails. Sure seems a lot more clunkier that what I'm used to, almost scary.
Better to die a million dollars in debt, than with a million in the bank!

Ohio HD

Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 10:51:26 AM
I offer a 50/50 warranty on all my advise- If it breaks in half, you may keep both pieces :teeth:
Or
If it all blows apart, you most certainly can blame Ohio :)
Your choice :smiled:

:dgust:   but, but, but.....

PoorUB

Quote from: Nooter99 on May 31, 2019, 03:02:42 PM
Is it correct that a sure sign of a worn compensator is a really clunky shift out of neutral into first? Like I said, this is my first bagger, coming from several Softails. Sure seems a lot more clunkier that what I'm used to, almost scary.

From what I have seen a bad comp will knock while lugging the engine. Also, if the starter kicks back often when cranking.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

kd

It may also knock with rough or low idle when hot or cold.
KD

smoserx1

Here is a little info I foundbecause I did not know anything about the issue other than some years had problems:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkGQrTt_cRY

89 fxrs

June 02, 2019, 10:29:36 AM #14 Last Edit: June 02, 2019, 10:46:51 AM by 89 fxrs
Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

just wondering if the oil diverter is needed if the newer primary cover is used? I was told that the 2016 primary cover comes with a diverter made inside from the factory - would that take the place of the glue in one?

according to the H-D site it says that 4010061 fits '07-'10 Touring and '07-'09 CVO what would be the part number for a 2013 Road Glide?
Pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

Ohio HD

Quote from: 89 fxrs on June 02, 2019, 10:29:36 AM
Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

just wondering if the oil diverter is needed if the newer primary cover is used? I was told that the 2016 primary cover comes with a diverter made inside from the factory - would that take the place of the glue in one?

Yes

kd

Do a little reading in the thread I attached to reply #3.  You may need a shim (or 2) and you have to order them separate.
KD

Nooter99

Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

You mention in the above post that the compensator kit comes "with a new rotor". But when I look it up on several dealer websites, and the mother ship website, it makes no mention of a new rotor. Seems like a good idea to put a new rotor in there while it's apart, bike has over 70k miles. Can anyone clear up my confusion on this before I order online. Will I get a new rotor, or do I need to order separately? Thanks.
Better to die a million dollars in debt, than with a million in the bank!

jls 64

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 31, 2019, 05:18:21 AM
Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

^^^  ^^^  ^^^ 
THIS  THIS THIS

js

jamminhd2000

Quote from: chaos901 on May 31, 2019, 06:26:50 AM
The new compensators also don't have the hex bolt holding them on, they require a large male TORX.  Had to go find that socket to change my first one of those.  Don't recall the size sitting at the office.

T70 Torx

14Frisco

Quote from: Nooter99 on June 19, 2019, 09:12:44 AMwhen I look it up on several dealer websites, and the mother ship website, it makes no mention of a new rotor

The SCREAMIN' EAGLE BIG TWIN COMPENSATOR instruction sheet does mention it.

Leed

According to the installation instructions the rotor and stator are "additional parts" and not included.

14Frisco

Quote from: Leed on June 20, 2019, 06:53:11 AM
According to the installation instructions the rotor and stator are "additional parts" and not included.

Read it again.

"Included in 40100061."

C-Cat

I have a new comp in box unopened. I'll post Saturday if all is included. 07 Dyna 40100061
124ci. 07 Streetbob 161/145
110ci. '11 Roadglide  129/127

C-Cat

 Rotor included, stator not.
124ci. 07 Streetbob 161/145
110ci. '11 Roadglide  129/127

PoorUB

Quote from: 14Frisco on June 20, 2019, 09:12:49 AM
Quote from: Leed on June 20, 2019, 06:53:11 AM
According to the installation instructions the rotor and stator are "additional parts" and not included.

Read it again.

"Included in 40100061."


What he said!

The instructions in the above link cover three part numbers. It clearly states the rotor is included in 40100061. none of them include the stator.

I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

PoorUB

HD never had compensator troubles until they changed the primary ratio with the six speed. There was some mi or issues before that, but not worth mentioning.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

mike jesse

I've got my old 2010 RG here at the house with the dreaded comp. knock.

I upgraded the complete compensator about 4 years ago with the SE kit #40100061 and glued the included tray in place.

My question is Harley also sells a kit without the rotor which is kit #42200064a.

Looks to me liked it's the same kit without the upgraded rotor.

What says the forum?

kd

Quote from: mike jesse on July 01, 2019, 09:20:01 PM
I've got my old 2010 RG here at the house with the dreaded comp. knock.

I upgraded the complete compensator about 4 years ago with the SE kit #40100061 and glued the included tray in place.

My question is Harley also sells a kit without the rotor which is kit #42200064a.

Looks to me liked it's the same kit without the upgraded rotor.

What says the forum?


Measure the stack height first.  You may be able to cure it with the shims for that version comp. 

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=82010.msg917659#msg917659
KD

FSG

Quote from: mike jesse on July 01, 2019, 09:20:01 PM
I've got my old 2010 RG here at the house with the dreaded comp. knock.

I upgraded the complete compensator about 4 years ago with the SE kit #40100061 and glued the included tray in place.

My question is Harley also sells a kit without the rotor which is kit #42200064a.

Looks to me liked it's the same kit without the upgraded rotor.

What says the forum?

  :up:  nailed it



https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/217573

89 fxrs

just wondering if the oil diverter is needed if the newer primary cover is used? I was told that the 2016 primary cover comes with a diverter made inside from the factory - would that take the place of the glue in one?

according to the H-D site it says that 4010061 fits '07-'10 Touring and '07-'09 CVO what would be the part number for a 2013 Road Glide?

Quote from: Ohio HD on June 02, 2019, 10:44:37 AM
Quote from: 89 fxrs on June 02, 2019, 10:29:36 AM
Quote from: rigidthumper on May 31, 2019, 04:58:01 AM
I've had the least issues with the latest SE comp with the glue in oil diverter. 
If you get the kit from HD (40100061) it comes with a new rotor & all the comp pieces you need except for gaskets and glue.  The 2008 and later (-06B) adjuster hasn't really been an issue for most. Stock primary chain should last for decades as long as the lube is adequate.

just wondering if the oil diverter is needed if the newer primary cover is used? I was told that the 2016 primary cover comes with a diverter made inside from the factory - would that take the place of the glue in one?

Yes

would the part number for the late model primary cover with the diverter made inside be 25700385?
Pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

mike jesse

Update on the Comp. knock.

The Comp. is perfect, looks as new. The Compensaver is doing it's job.

Spectro primary oil.

The stock auto chain adjuster not so much.

No Cents

  Mike...that is a good set up your running in your primary.  :up:  I haven't had the need to pull my primary cover off for a couple of years now.
  I've been running the original CompensaVer with the Spectro 85W lubing the Bandit clutch and the comp. I did weld my factory chain tensioner wedge in place with 5/8" cold chain deflection set. I'm running a 32 tooth Game Changer too. I'm tickled pink with my primary. 
  As it stands right now I do plan on pulling the primary cover off at the end of the riding season and inspecting everything real good. I better knock on wood after saying that...but I haven't had to do anything to my bike except for doing the routine oil changes. 
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

mike jesse

Quote from: No Cents on July 13, 2019, 09:14:19 AM
  Mike...that is a good set up your running in your primary.  :up:  I haven't had the need to pull my primary cover off for a couple of years now.
  I've been running the original CompensaVer with the Spectro 85W lubing the Bandit clutch and the comp. I did weld my factory chain tensioner wedge in place with 5/8" cold chain deflection set. I'm running a 32 tooth Game Changer too. I'm tickled pink with my primary. 
  As it stands right now I do plan on pulling the primary cover off at the end of the riding season and inspecting everything real good. I better knock on wood after saying that...but I haven't had to do anything to my bike except for doing the routine oil changes.

This one has the first Gen. SE comp., Bandit Sportsman, and a stock tensioner.
I bumped the tensioner up 1 notch by hand, it was a tad loose.
Spectro as well. Seems to work well at 24 oz.
Not much of anything on the Compensaver magnet.

Be prepared to dig deep for that new outer primary gasket if you spring for the Harley piece. It is a MLS type now, a good thing.

1workinman

Quote from: No Cents on July 13, 2019, 09:14:19 AM
  Mike...that is a good set up your running in your primary.  :up:  I haven't had the need to pull my primary cover off for a couple of years now.
  I've been running the original CompensaVer with the Spectro 85W lubing the Bandit clutch and the comp. I did weld my factory chain tensioner wedge in place with 5/8" cold chain deflection set. I'm running a 32 tooth Game Changer too. I'm tickled pink with my primary. 
  As it stands right now I do plan on pulling the primary cover off at the end of the riding season and inspecting everything real good. I better knock on wood after saying that...but I haven't had to do anything to my bike except for doing the routine oil changes.
Ray I got my apart waiting on the parts to arrive now . How may fluid oz do you recommend after your removed the primary for inspection my tensioner was pretty snug so I think the welding is a good idea thanks

No Cents

08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae


Pirsch Fire Wagon

Harley-Davidson offers two different Kits.

Whether the Rotor is included depends on if your Model has the Original Spring Pack attached to the Original Rotor. In which case, you will get a new Rotor with no Spring Pack Attacked The Concave Disks serve as the Spring Pack.

The easy way to tell is, if it cost $409 you need the Rotor - The less expensive does not have nor require the Rotor.

For instance; Kit 40100061 (Does not have a Rotor Included - primarilly 11 and earlier - but not ALL) Fits '06-'11 Dyna®, '07-'11 Softail® (except FXCW and FXCWC), '07-'10 Touring and '07-'09 CVO™ (except '09 FXSTSSE) models. Does not fit Trike. Requires separate purchase of Installation Adhesive Kit P/N 11100088. Kit includes Rotor Assembly P/N 30041-08. Installation on '06 Dyna® models require separate purchase of '07-style stator.

Tom