New build - fouled plugs and rough running

[chris.m.j]

Three photos of the cylinder head. Two from the manual where one is loosening head bolts and the other tightening. Then the third pic is from the cometic instructions.

What's confusing with the manual is the loosening figure has front/rear listed but the depiction of the curved oil groove and the large flat spot by bolt 3 are flipped front to back. That curved oil groove should be on the intake side of each head and the larger flat spot that has front or rear marked on it should be by the exhaust side. If you follow front/rear you'd work inlet side to outlet side but if you follow the groove and flat spot you go outlet to inlet

The second pic in the manual doesn't have front/rear anymore. So now the figure of each head is correct but only if the top one is the rear and the bottom is the front. So you can see read it as either inlet to outlet or outlet to inlet again.

The cometic instruction doesn't have the curved groove but only the larger flat spot by bolt 3. And it only has one cylinder shown. This figure tells you to work outlet to inlet.

Does it matter which way you go? I did short-short-long-long at the required torques but I went outlet to inlet.

[chris.m.j]

The first pic didn't attach in the last post.

Edit: Never mind it did post.

[K4FXD]

I'm late to the party.

I would not have tore it down. I would have taken it to the tuner and let them have at it. If there were or are any engine problems they would have found them. I think you have made a mountain out of a mole hill. But now will never know.

Since it is once again back together, I would take it to the tuner and let him sort it out. If there are any non tuning issues he will find them and most likely will be able to fix it correctly.

Good luck

RE; torquing cylinder heads , or any other machined piece.

As long as you pull it down evenly it really doesn't matter where you start.

Find a mentor to help you or pay a pro.

[chris.m.j]

Find a mentor to help you or pay a pro.

Man, a mentor would be nice. I'm a one man band around here. I've learned a lot so far but just not enough I guess. If I don't figure this out soon it's going to the pro. Baby number two is coming in August and my time will be filled.

[K4FXD]

Take it to the tuner. If it were mine that is what I'd do.

Only because I don't have a dyno or the software to tune a FI bike.

So I build the motor, send to tuner, get back good running bike. Or the tuner says "Hey dude you F'ed up the (insert anything that could be F'ed up)

Ive been a wrench in one form or another for almost 40 years.

[Mirrmu]

doing a good job, follow everything in the manual and you will be fine

a tuner not going to determine an oil problem in the cylinders

but i would do some more heat cycles for 2 or 3mins each, and if dont notice anything significant from your assembly (oil pissing out, significant noise) then i would take it for a ride keeping the rpms up, changing gears, try and hit 4000-4500rpm, 20-30mins

then check out

[K4FXD]

Like the rest of the pros have already done, I'm going to bow out.

Take it to a tuner, let him get the MAP right. You can't turn a screw on a FI bike to lean it out.

Good luck.

Let us know how it turns out.

[chris.m.j]

Update on the build: it was the map put in by the shop. The re-assembly was good on my end. So that's a confidence booster.

My apologies for the scatterbrained trouble shooting on here. This was the first time trying this big of a project and I really didn't want to be "that guy" bringing a DIY bike back in. I'm pretty confident in the shop that if I would have let them do everything start to finish it would have been fine. But long story short they had to change their routine a little for me and I'm very appreciative.

Thanks to all those that helped on here. It was fun and I learned a lot.

[Hossamania]

Thanks for the follow up, glad you got it sorted out.
It's all about the tune.

[dsvracer]

how did the tune affect the oiley spark plugs ??

[Don D]

  and urgently as in do not run it any longer.  Hopefully you haven't washed down the new cylinders and rings.  Get it on a dyno with a known good tuner before you run it more.

Base map for heat cycle and get it on the dyno is what I thought was the right way to do that

This shop says heat cycle, then base map for break in, then final tune with dyno and on-the-road tuning.

Follow the lead of others here. The tune needs to be fixed right out of the gate.

[Mirrmu]

how did the tune affect the oiley spark plugs ??

The tune was commanding more oil be sent into cylinders

[kouack]

how did the tune affect the oiley spark plugs ??

The tune was commanding more oil be sent into cylinders

Huh more oil, i guess more fuel? Unless you have a two stroke! 

[Screamin beagle]

Aren't you supposed to leave the dowel oring out when using the cometic mls head gaskets?

[1workinman]

how did the tune affect the oiley spark plugs ??

The tune was commanding more oil be sent into cylinders

I don't think that the tune controls the oil to the cylinders it does control fuel and timing events .  A tune that is not proper will or can wash off the cylinder wall or be too lean . The reason to tune it after heat cycle for me . Glad you got it fixed .

[Mirrmu]

Ok, washing oil from cylinder walls?

Maybe one of the tuners can provide some feedback on how the tune make oily spark plugs

[Hilly13]

He said sooty plugs in the first post, could of be really rich with other tune issues as well, it's all good now and that's all that matters