126" Rebuild

[pwmorris]

Beauty, Paul!
Is that the same bike that was on Corbin's TV show?

Nope-
That bike, we pulled the 131" out of it (the one that had your dual plenum manifold they said "wouldn't work", lol) and I traded the FXR roller for a G2 Gangster drag chassis roller (needed 2 bikes-a full drag bike and also a street bike).
I bought a Dyna to ride around, didn't like it, and traded it with a buddy who had a clean FXR. Then went to work modifying that FXR, ending up with what you see now.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

One clean machine, Paul!

[pwmorris]

Finally got around to putting in the TC FL Oil Tank in and pulling that hot FXR stock oil bag that was positioned up top next to the battery.
Sooooo much cooler on my nuts and the lithium, and the lower center of gravity weight also cant hurt. R&D trans gears refeshed with new WW bearings for insurance and performance.
Thanks so much to Mike Roberts for the case, Ed (Turboprop) for tank parts (as Ed said "why the hell didn't Harley set the FXR with this set up in the first place!"), and his familiarity and guidance with this specific set up- BIG TIME- and Pingel for hooking me up with a new electric shifter bracket (old one cracked at bolt holes and this new one much stronger in every way than my old one) that was needed  -
Also for you Hi HP TC/M8 guys, this vented line off the spout for additional venting (see TR's post in M8 about this), works well for TC's as well at the spout to dissipate pressure at the filler neck. We actually ran a similar set up on a race bike a decade ago so TR's post is for sure based on his race experience as well. It works-(other that a bitch-3 x pipe on and off due to leaks-mostly the starter hitting the neck, and multiple grinding efforts to clear this), with lines and hoses in the way, and separate spacer blocks, and gasket pieces to line up and clear my massive starter to nail with no leaks), and it is all good now. no blow over, or catch can dumping.
Killer and clean.



































NOTE FRANKENSTEIN SPOUT MODIFIED FROM AN OLD RACE SET UP-AND NOW, THANKS TO TURBOPROP, A CORRECT SPACED SPOUT TO CLEAR THE BEAST STARTER-



AND THE NEW SHIFTER BRACKET, PROPS TO PINGEL...

https://youtu.be/zP6WbjQOBao

[HighLiner]

Is that a one off pan?

[mrmike]

Looks like one of Ed's custom designs, yes?

Very nice looking bike, well done! I can understand why you guys have such a passion for that particular model.

Mike

[turboprop]

Is that a one off pan?

No. It's a three-off oil pan. I built three of these pans. One for my mentor Mr. PW. One for my other mentor, Mr. Joe Biesel of Deviant Fabrications and another for my friend Marcel in Europe.

Fun fact: The pan I made for Joe was used as a mold for the prototype injection molded resin pans that he made. Those pans never went into production due to concerns about heat retention.  The pan I made was then used as a template for the billet oil pans that Joe/Deviant now sells.

[turboprop]

Finally got around to putting in the TC FL Oil Tank in and pulling that hot FXR stock oil bag that was positioned up top next to the battery.
Sooooo much cooler on my nuts and the lithium, and the lower center of gravity weight also cant hurt. R&D trans gears refeshed with new WW bearings for insurance and performance.
Thanks so much to Mike Roberts for the case, Ed (Turboprop) for tank parts (as Ed said "why the hell didn't Harley set the FXR with this set up in the first place!"), and his familiarity and guidance with this specific set up- BIG TIME- and Pingel for hooking me up with a new electric shifter bracket (old one cracked at bolt holes and this new one much stronger in every way than my old one) that was needed  -
Also for you Hi HP TC/M8 guys, this vented line off the spout for additional venting (see TR's post in M8 about this), works well for TC's as well at the spout to dissipate pressure at the filler neck. We actually ran a similar set up on a race bike a decade ago so TR's post is for sure based on his race experience as well. It works-(other that a bitch-3 x pipe on and off due to leaks-mostly the starter hitting the neck, and multiple grinding efforts to clear this), with lines and hoses in the way, and separate spacer blocks, and gasket pieces to line up and clear my massive starter to nail with no leaks), and it is all good now. no blow over, or catch can dumping.
Killer and clean.



































NOTE FRANKENSTEIN SPOUT MODIFIED FROM AN OLD RACE SET UP-AND NOW, THANKS TO TURBOPROP, A CORRECT SPACED SPOUT TO CLEAR THE BEAST STARTER-



AND THE NEW SHIFTER BRACKET, PROPS TO PINGEL...

https://youtu.be/zP6WbjQOBao

Another fun fact, the sail boat shown in the first picture is a scale model of Paul's 'dingy'. In addition to being a HP junkie and motorcycle racer, Paul is also a world renowned sailor.

[Shoreglide]

All of that in his free time from the Beverly hills plastic surgery practice. Paul, what's your secret?

Ed, I have one of Joe's pans making the long journey to my house as we speak. Thanks for helping enable guys like me to have a clean and simple(r) way to perform a TC/FXR conversion.

[IronButt70]

Beautiful ride. Well done. 

[turboprop]

All of that in his free time from the Beverly hills plastic surgery practice. Paul, what's your secret?

Ed, I have one of Joe's pans making the long journey to my house as we speak. Thanks for helping enable guys like me to have a clean and simple(r) way to perform a TC/FXR conversion.

I would love to see some of the porn stars that Paul has worked on over the years.

As for your TC/FXR project, hopefully you are using a '99-'00 trans case as everything will be easier and cleaner if you do.

[Shoreglide]

Yes indeed. Picked up a fairly clean one from a 2000 RK off fleabay cheap. Probably will have the powder coat freshened up when I get my raw aluminum inner primary done.

[pwmorris]

Oil tank line mod-
O.K., so with a little prodding and assistance from Turboprop to clean up and dial in this mod even to another level, I went ahead and got parts to eliminate the crossover vent line from tank to case. Bigtime thanks to Ron at Axtell who will forget more than I will ever remember, and who has done extensive testing with TC tanks (which I haven't). Ron has said that as long as a one way valve is utilized from tank, the crossover line is unnecessary and per Ed, an EPA band aid.
So...
Correct tapered plugs and one way check valve ordered from McMaster Carr ( Turbo), to eliminate the line and instead of running the oil tank line up to a vent, and to clean up the primary side of the bike so I wouldn't have to run this additional line to my other lines to my main catch can upfront, I utilized the empty space of the missing old oil tank- and put a secondary catch can dedicated just for the oil tank vent. Insurance, and looks...after all, I have been called on this site by an outstanding HTT Member "Mr. Showbike", and for sure, looks matter to me much more than performance-
Anyway,
This mod is awesome, and the final piece to this puzzle marrying performance, and sano clean looks. Of course, I've given it my usual hard testing to make sure it works for me......
6 grand plus shifts, hi speed and hi rpm extended freeway testing and basic cruzing, and didn't get a damn drop from either catch can, no leaks from fittings and great, consistent oil pressure (with the crossover line my oil pressure would rock back and forth 5 plus psi at idle after hard riding. Not sure why?
Anyway, done deal on this area of the bike. Good to go here...
BEFORE-




NOW-

[turboprop]

I have tried to explain this inhere before but it has always fell on deaf ears. Anyways, one more time.

The oil pump (all brands, all eras) pump oil AND air back to the oil tank. That air must be allowed to escape. Harley runs a vent line back to the case where the air is expelled via either the case and/or head vents.

Starting with the '93 Evo engines, the head vents had check valves that prevented (somewhat) air from being sucked back into the engine. Venting the oil tank allows the air that would typically be routed back to the engine to instead vent direct from the oil tank.

A check valve is required on the oil tank vent to keep the system intact. Without the one way valve there is potential for air to be sucked back into the oil tank.

By removing the vent line between the oil tank and the engine case, the head vents only have deal with the air that  results from blow by. The air from the oil pump is compartmented to the oil tank and allowed to escape via vent line tapped into the rear of the oil spout.

Will add that XL based pro stock bikes and other classes of v-twin racing use pumps off the crank shaft to evacuate the crank case. Returning air from the oil tank back to the engine case is an EPA thing.

PW, you weren't supposed to tell anyone. WTF?

[pwmorris]

"PW, you weren't supposed to tell anyone. WTF?"

Damn, busted.....
Just a fun fact, as I will say I ran a line with one way check valve off my original OEM FXR stock tank tapped into my filler neck with this TC engine for a decade, (never even heard of a crossover vent line), but was unaware and unsure how an OEM TC tank would like/react/need doing the same. I was simply following stock set ups.
It was also super messy on the primary side, with multiple lines joking each other to finally enter the from catch can.
I only speak from which I know, and I am the first to ask for guidance from those who have come before me, and done the heavy lifting.

[rigidthumper]

Any affect on engine performance noted?

[pwmorris]

Any affect on engine performance noted?

No specific hard data, such as a dyno comparison, but it does feel that power comes on quicker twisting the throttle, more "bam" on demand, but that's just seat of pants feel. It was already a rocket when hitting it hard, so it's hard to say, but I like it.

[1workinman]

I have tried to explain this inhere before but it has always fell on deaf ears. Anyways, one more time.

The oil pump (all brands, all eras) pump oil AND air back to the oil tank. That air must be allowed to escape. Harley runs a vent line back to the case where the air is expelled via either the case and/or head vents.

Starting with the '93 Evo engines, the head vents had check valves that prevented (somewhat) air from being sucked back into the engine. Venting the oil tank allows the air that would typically be routed back to the engine to instead vent direct from the oil tank.

A check valve is required on the oil tank vent to keep the system intact. Without the one way valve there is potential for air to be sucked back into the oil tank.

By removing the vent line between the oil tank and the engine case, the head vents only have deal with the air that  results from blow by. The air from the oil pump is compartmented to the oil tank and allowed to escape via vent line tapped into the rear of the oil spout.

Will add that XL based pro stock bikes and other classes of v-twin racing use pumps off the crank shaft to evacuate the crank case. Returning air from the oil tank back to the engine case is an EPA thing.

PW, you weren't supposed to tell anyone. WTF?

Both of my bikes are done this way with the filler neck drilled and tapped / fitting that Ray posted but I used a black air line that is used to run air to rotary  seals on equipment , works well no need for hose clamps . I just warm up the line and push it on the barb or screw in the fitting that Ray posted . I used the check also .  Both bikes use little to no oil . Heads vented in the same manner . I appreciate you guys posting information 

[ecir50]

Running mine like this, any reason not to use the vent location on the evo tranny. Thinking could just put a male npt check valve there with a filter on end to keep debris out.