So I was going for a ride today and made it about 4 miles when my King died. Was cruising out of town in 3rd around 45mph and it bucked and rumbled once or twice, then the engine quit. There was no bang, pops, or grinding (or fluid leaks). It's like someone flipped the switch off.
After coasting to a parking lot, I tried restarting and it just turns over. But the starter whine doesn't sound right.
https://youtube.com/shorts/B08zcjJlUUM?feature=share
Now, a couple weeks ago when it was at the shop getting tires, I had them change the fluids. They found the primary chain tensioner had came apart and left some chunks in the bottom of the primary.
Here's what they replaced:
Chain tensioner
Stator
clutch hub
jackshaft
Things that have been repaired/replaced recently are always the first to check, I haven't got the bike home yet, just looking for ideas on what would have killed the engine like that before I start opening it up.
thanks
I'd be pulling that primary cover first thing. Sounds like a jack shaft or start drive issue, the sound of the starter. But you said it died, so I don't know what that would have to do with the starter, or jack shaft. Might be a separate issue? I'd get it cranking over first, see what's what from there.
Sounds like a zero compression situation. Are you sure the engine is turning at all? I'd do as Ohio suggests, and start pulling primary cover.
I agree with OhioHD. From where I'm sitting it sounds like a Starter Issue. Not the Starter itself, but from the Starter into the Primary Side. On the Long Bolt securing the Jackshaft and Pinion Gear to the Starter...there is a Small Washer like Locktab, that lines up with a Slot on the Shaft. If that small tab has broken off, or maybe completely missing...the Starter will spin all day without engaging the Gear to the Primary and starting the Bike. You mention that the Jackshaft was replaced...so somebody's been in the neighborhood. The Tab could be broken, or they just forgot about the Locktab.
As far as the Bike just quitting...I'm not so sure that would be the problem. But, stranger things have happened.
If You take Your left hand and place it above the Derby Cover while trying to start the Bike...You should feel a little "kick" there from the Pinion Gear where it goes into the Primary Cover.
Whatever the problem may be...I would be calling whoever did the work expressing My dis-pleasure and see if they will come and pick it up, and properly repair it.
That's if You feel confident in them after this ordeal.
If You go on Ronnies Microfiche, or a Shop Manual if You have it...take a look at Your Starter...You'll see what I'm talking about.
Good Luck!
Thanks guys.
The engine is turning over.
But there is no compression and no spark at the front spark plug.
I'd dial it back on telling the shop you're not happy with their work until all the problems are found.
To determine the stall issue, first check for fuel and spark. Go from there. Could be ignition, petcock, lost compression, loose battery cable, bad battery, bad crank sensor, clogged carb, etc.
One problem at a time.
Are you checking for spark with both plugs in and a third to check?
How did you check for compression?
I'm assuming no compression releases to fail.
Can you feel any compression with your thumb over the spark plug holes?
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 16, 2023, 02:40:46 PMBut there is no compression and no spark at the front spark plug.
with no compression you're not going to get spark
the work done may be unrelated to the current no start ...
but I'd for sure be pulling the primary to take a look
I'd be figuring out the no compression first. The sound it's making seems normal for a no compression turnover.
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 02:43:26 PMAre you checking for spark with both plugs in and a third to check?
How did you check for compression?
I did not, just pulled the front plug and hit the button. For compression I just stuck my thumb over the front plug hole and couldn't feel any pressure or vacuum.
I feel like there's a better spark check, but couldn't remember. Bike isn't home yet, so just doing side of the road tests for now.
You could easily pull the primary chain inspection cover to see a bit of what's going on before pulling the whole primary cover.
With no compression felt in the plug hole, it's either not turning over (inspection cover would show chain turning), or motor has issues.
Quick turnover check, you could put it in gear, bump starter, let's you know if starter is engaging if bike jumps forward. Be careful doing this!
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 02:51:48 PMYou could easily pull the primary chain inspection cover to see a bit of what's going on before pulling the whole primary cover.
With no compression felt in the plug hole, it's either not turning over (inspection cover would show chain turning), or motor has issues.
front piston is moving.
Im waiting on help to load it in the trailer. I might pull the pushrod covers and see if any are loose, maybe a dead lifter?
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 02:53:22 PMQuick turnover check, you could put it in gear, bump starter, let's you know if starter is engaging if bike jumps forward. Be careful doing this!
I did that already, it jumped... Also stuck a straw in the front plug hole and the piston moved.
Check the rear for compression too.
Sadly, sounds like a valve failure, or worse, a hole'd piston.
Drop the pushrod tubes and see what happens when you try to crank over. Stripped pinion gear keyway?
Hadn't thought of that, Ohio. Good call.
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 02:56:58 PMCheck the rear for compression too.
rear has compression.
That's better news.
Loose pushrod on the front?
At least you're getting closer to the problem.
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 03:02:06 PMThat's better news.
Loose pushrod on the front?
At least you're getting closer to the problem.
that are adjustable, so could be. I didn't notice any banging, clanging, or even popping when it quit. So I dont think bent valve? Though I have never heard that happen, so...
So, why would it not fire the rear cylinder at least? Assuming the rear is working properly.
Not sure how your ignition works, but it might not fire if it doesn't slow due to no compression.
No Spark at the Front Cylinder? Could be something as simple as a Bad Plug, Bad Plug Wire, or maybe the Coil, or the Wires going to it. All pretty easy to check.
Try a New Plug, Check the Plug Wire(s) for continuity with a Volt/Ohm Meter, and that they are seated correctly at both ends. And check the Coil.
I realize that You are stranded right now and might not be able to do all of this until You get it Home.
If I was a little bit closer, I would have been on My way.
Quote from: Fugawee on April 16, 2023, 03:10:49 PMNo Spark at the Front Cylinder? Could be something as simple as a Bad Plug, Bad Plug Wire, or maybe the Coil, or the Wires going to it. All pretty easy to check.
Try a New Plug, Check the Plug Wire(s) for continuity with a Volt/Ohm Meter, and that they are seated correctly at both ends. And check the Coil.
I realize that You are stranded right now and might not be able to do all of this until You get it Home.
If I was a little bit closer, I would have been on My way.
I appreciate it. A coworker car guy gave me a ride home to get my trailer and helped me load it up.
I was thinking about the coil. But comp at the rear but not the front has me thinking something else.
Yup, gotta figure out the compression issue first.
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 03:41:57 PMYup, gotta figure out the compression issue first.
yep, just got home and pulled the pushrod tubes. None of the rods move when turning it over (I assume the rear valves must just be closed to feel compression) The rods don't spin but do have a good bit of oil on them, though the tubes weren't full either.
:pop:
https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,119850.msg1436353.html#msg1436353 (https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,119850.msg1436353.html#msg1436353)
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 16, 2023, 03:52:41 PM:pop:
https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,119850.msg1436353.html#msg1436353 (https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,119850.msg1436353.html#msg1436353)
I assume next step is to open up the cam chest and see what's turning/not-turning.
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 16, 2023, 04:19:00 PMI assume next step is to open up the cam chest and see what's turning/not-turning.
Yeah, the nut may have backed off and caused the problem. If the pushrods aren't moving, it's almost got to be the pinion gear. I doubt it would be an issue with teeth stripping.
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 16, 2023, 04:22:24 PMYeah, the nut may have backed off and caused the problem. If the pushrods aren't moving, it's almost got to be the pinion gear. I doubt it would be an issue with teeth stripping.
Thanks, I'll get it opened up tonight and see what's what.
welp, it ain't pretty...
:crook:
Wow,
That sucks. Sorry this happened to you.
Lil Chief
Yikes. You might want to see if something jammed the oil pump and caused that.
Ouch...that really does suck. Good Luck with it.
Delete
Quote from: Hossamania on April 16, 2023, 07:37:47 PMI might be confused, but did you see the pics in post 32?
Thanks Hoss. I started the post before that info was posted. I looked back but not far enough I guess. Now it's irrelevant so I removed it. It's gonna be a full cleanup.
I figured something happened with timing of your post. Six has his work cut out for him.
Quote from: Fugawee on April 16, 2023, 06:18:03 PMOuch...that really does suck. Good Luck with it.
:dgust: :agree:
thanks guys. I'll get the cam and pinion gear out to see what the shaft looks like and update ya.
honestly thinking real hard about swapping it with S&S V111 or something... could be fun.
Remember, pull and clean the oil tank while the engine is out. There are chunks in the oil return passage, so expect the oil pump drive keys to be sheared, and possible pump damage. Inspect the lifter rollers when you get it apart- I've seen them cause problems like this when they shed a roller.
:sad: , but it can be fixed.
Compression has nothing to do with the spark on a carbed evo .
Quote from: Ironheadmike on April 17, 2023, 08:55:38 AMCompression has nothing to do with the spark on a carbed evo .
I didn't think so, but I wasn't sure.
If Your Bike can be repaired at a reasonable rate...I think I would do that.
Considering the price of an S+S V111 Engine, and the other little things that may come in to play should You be thinking about going that route, it could turn out to be a rather expensive day.
I might even be thinking about spending that Engine money on a 90's or early 2000's FLH depending on what's for sale out there, and what is likeable about it.
I realize that the S+S could be a lot of fun, but the price seems a little steep for Me considering it's a 1995 Road King. Plus, the Labor, unless You plan on tackling the project Yourself.
Just My opinion which I'm aware nobody asked for.
But hey...It's Your Bike, and Your Money.
Whatever You should decide, I hope that it works out for the Best for You.
Quote from: Fugawee on April 17, 2023, 10:20:35 AM...
I might even be thinking about spending that Engine money on a 90's or early 2000's FLH depending on what's for sale out there, and what is likeable about it.
...
Yep, I've been wanting another slimmed down bar-hopper since I traded my lowered/raked Softail in on this Road King. I love the King, but really wish I had paid cash rather than traded for it 5 years ago.
I'm thinking a late '90s Heritage or Fat Boy for $4-5k. At the very least, it'll save this year's riding season while rebuild and then I can.... consider selling it :hyst:
So what actually let loose in the camchest?
Quote from: lilchief on April 17, 2023, 02:00:14 PMSo what actually let loose in the camchest?
not sure yet. I pulled out the chunks of the worm gear. I'll get to pulling the cam, lifters, and pinion gear out tonight then probably pull the oil pump. I'd bet Ohio had it with that key that drives the worm/pinion gear.
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 17, 2023, 02:28:39 PMpull the oil pump
The keys in the oil pump "should" shear before an object jamming the oil pump could cause the oil pump worm gear on the crankshaft to break. I say "should", but anything is possible. The oil pump drive shaft and the worm gear at the end of the shaft that the crank turns, it may have come lose due to a snap ring failure, allowing that gear to float in and out causing the worm gear on the crank to jam and split.
I'd carefully remove the debris and see what you can find as some evidence of the cause. Hopefully the pinion shaft is ok, with no more than some scuffing that you might be able to sand down with fine emery cloth.
You also need to check for bent valves. Not trying to make you feel bad, just that there could be more damage. Also the shrapnel could be in the crankcase as well. Depends on how long there may have been some chips or fine metal floating around before the motor quit. I'd drain the oil filter into a small pan, and then once it's pretty dry, cut it open with tin snips so not to make fine metal dust with a saw. See what's in there. Also try to drain the oil tank through some old white t-shirt or thin white towel into a clean pan.
(https://imgsh.net/i/jWahfcn.png)
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 17, 2023, 03:00:32 PMQuote from: SixShooter14 on April 17, 2023, 02:28:39 PMpull the oil pump
The keys in the oil pump "should" shear before an object jamming the oil pump could cause the oil pump worm gear on the crankshaft to break. I say "should", but anything is possible. The oil pump drive shaft and the worm gear at the end of the shaft that the crank turns, it may have come lose due to a snap ring failure, allowing that gear to float in and out causing the worm gear on the crank to jam and split.
I'd carefully remove the debris and see what you can find as some evidence of the cause. Hopefully the pinion shaft is ok, with no more than some scuffing that you might be able to sand down with fine emery cloth.
You also need to check for bent valves. Not trying to make you feel bad, just that there could be more damage. Also the shrapnel could be in the crankcase as well. Depends on how long there may have been some chips or fine metal floating around before the motor quit. I'd drain the oil filter into a small pan, and then once it's pretty dry, cut it open with tin snips so not to make fine metal dust with a saw. See what's in there. Also try to drain the oil tank through some old white t-shirt or thin white towel into a clean pan.
Thanks I had intended on checking the oil for metal. Is there a way to check for bent valves without pulling the heads? I do have a borescope, would contact be obvious enough on the piston to see?
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 17, 2023, 03:07:12 PMQuote from: Ohio HD on April 17, 2023, 03:00:32 PMQuote from: SixShooter14 on April 17, 2023, 02:28:39 PMpull the oil pump
The keys in the oil pump "should" shear before an object jamming the oil pump could cause the oil pump worm gear on the crankshaft to break. I say "should", but anything is possible. The oil pump drive shaft and the worm gear at the end of the shaft that the crank turns, it may have come lose due to a snap ring failure, allowing that gear to float in and out causing the worm gear on the crank to jam and split.
I'd carefully remove the debris and see what you can find as some evidence of the cause. Hopefully the pinion shaft is ok, with no more than some scuffing that you might be able to sand down with fine emery cloth.
You also need to check for bent valves. Not trying to make you feel bad, just that there could be more damage. Also the shrapnel could be in the crankcase as well. Depends on how long there may have been some chips or fine metal floating around before the motor quit. I'd drain the oil filter into a small pan, and then once it's pretty dry, cut it open with tin snips so not to make fine metal dust with a saw. See what's in there. Also try to drain the oil tank through some old white t-shirt or thin white towel into a clean pan.
Thanks I had intended on checking the oil for metal. Is there a way to check for bent valves without pulling the heads? I do have a borescope, would contact be obvious enough on the piston to see?
Thanks I had intended on checking the oil for metal. Is there a way to check for bent valves without pulling the heads? I do have a borescope, would contact be obvious enough on the piston to see?
It should be obvious in the carbon as a shiny spot along the arc of the valve pocket eyebrow. If you slip the rocker cover pans off and with the pushrods out all 4 valves should be at full extension (up). The exhaust should be the same height as each other and the intakes likewise. If you can pry down on the valve stems they should feel free when starting to move and return fully when released slowly.
If you have an angle mirror tip with your endoscope you can attach to the lens (mine came with one) you can look up at the valves when the scope is inserted through the spark plug hole. When you have the pushrods out the valves should appear to be seated.
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 17, 2023, 03:07:12 PMThanks I had intended on checking the oil for metal. Is there a way to check for bent valves without pulling the heads? I do have a borescope, would contact be obvious enough on the piston to see?
A leak down test will tell you if there are any issues with holding compression. Also the bore scope is helpful to see what's what in there also.
Also, I'm sure you will, but just to be sure, look in the breather valve for metal, as well check the breather valve bore for damage. Again, not likely, but takes only a few minutes to check it out.
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 17, 2023, 04:35:34 PMAlso, I'm sure you will, but just to be sure, look in the breather valve for metal, as well check the breather valve bore for damage. Again, not likely, but takes only a few minutes to check it out.
:agree: The breather valve will give a good indication of debris migration. I don't remember if the 95 was a plastic unit but the 98 was. Any (or some of) the sharp pieces of the shrapnel that entered it will be imbedded in the outer surface between the breather and the breather bore. Minor scoring shouldn't be a problem and you'll have the opportunity to decide on replacing it with another OEM plastic unit or go with an aftermarket metal one.
Quote from: kd on April 17, 2023, 05:00:32 PMQuote from: Ohio HD on April 17, 2023, 04:35:34 PMAlso, I'm sure you will, but just to be sure, look in the breather valve for metal, as well check the breather valve bore for damage. Again, not likely, but takes only a few minutes to check it out.
:agree: The breather valve will give a good indication of debris migration. I don't remember if the 95 was a plastic unit but the 98 was. Any (or some of) the sharp pieces of the shrapnel that entered it will be imbedded in the outer surface between the breather and the breather bore. Minor scoring shouldn't be a problem and you'll have the opportunity to decide on replacing it with another OEM plastic unit or go with an aftermarket metal one.
Thanks, it's a '97 and OEM was plastic but I installed a metal breather gear back in 2020 when I had it apart. I'll definitely give it a look.
Oh and another thing.... :SM: ridgedthumper already said to check out the lifter rollers. But like he once told me, and I believe it, the lifter is the best oil filter in the motor. I'd also pull them apart and wash them out if you plan to reuse them.
It's a lot to go over. But no point in cutting any corners on inspection at this point.
Also, a quick leak down for the sake of finding a leak in the upper end is just put air pressure straight into the spark plug hole. You don't need a leak down tester just to see if there is actual damage causing a leak. It should be pretty evident.
Monday night updates.
Breather Gear:
Found 1 little chunk INSIDE the breather gear, it was small enough to fit through the breather screen but larger than a splinter. No scratches or gouges on the steel gear or Al housing. The very back of the housing is a little rough but it looks more like casting/wear than from damage.
Pushrods/Lifters:
All rods were still locked down. 3 rods could be wiggled by finger, the front exhaust was pretty tight but loosened as soon as I started shortening (as expected) Rods look fine.
Lifters all look fine as well, no scratches or metal debris on them anywhere. The intake rollers show very light witness marks around them. All roll good and smooth with no side to side rocking at all.
Cam:
Gear looks fine. Lobes all look fine, showing very light witness marks matching with the rollers. Cam thrust washer look fine no major scratches, bearing didn't show any debris looking from the outside with a flashlight.
Pinion gear:
Key was still in the pinion gear and was curled up out of the keyway. Keyway shows some light scuffing on the front of the outboard end. The end of the keyway that would be under the pinion gear.
I didn't borescope the cylinders yet. I think I'll just pull the rocker boxes off for peace of mind and then decide on heads.
I have pictures of the gears, key/keyway, and breather gear/bore. If anyone thinks it would be helpful, I can post them.
Should the oil pump gear spin by hand? I tried turning it with my fingers but it didn't budge? :nix:
ALSO...
I want to thank all of y'all for helping out with questions, answers, ideas, and opinions. It is MUCH appreciated :hug:
The return side of the oil pump is that cavity directly underneath the pinion gear- some of those chunks had to get in the return gears, keeping it from freely rotating.
Quote from: rigidthumper on April 17, 2023, 08:09:53 PMThe return side of the oil pump is that cavity directly underneath the pinion gear- some of those chunks had to get in the return gears, keeping it from freely rotating.
yep, I see what you're saying in the SM picture. Goes out the bottom, through the return gears and to the filter?
Yep- and the first chunk to hit would have stopped the return side, possible both sides. Just have to complete the tear down to see how the keys in the pump fared.
Quote from: rigidthumper on April 18, 2023, 04:48:02 AMYep- and the first chunk to hit would have stopped the return side, possible both sides. Just have to complete the tear down to see how the keys in the pump fared.
welp, keys in the pump fared just fine.... The key on the drive gear in the cam chest was sheared off as well as a few gear teeth.
So, I now have the pump off. The motor side gears had a few chunks bound up in the gears but the keys and gears on that side are ok... But there's is a couple gouges in the gear area and a ring cut around the idler gear. Picture below.
20230421_193821.jpg
I also drained the oil (did NOT pull the oil pan) no chunks there and just real fine particles on the drain plug like you would typically see. I haven't pulled the filter off yet either but that'll be next.
Unfortunately you can't get the oil pump body from HD any longer. Their part number was (is) 26226-92. Someone may have a near new condition used pump more likely than just the pump body in good condition. The body is generally what suffers as you can see.
FYI: HD doesn't sell the pump assembly any longer either.
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 21, 2023, 07:21:18 PMUnfortunately you can't get the oil pump body from HD any longer. Their part number was (is) 26226-92. Someone may have a near new condition used pump more likely than just the pump body in good condition. The body is generally what suffers as you can see.
FYI: HD doesn't sell the pump assembly any longer either.
I'm just going to order a new pump assembly gears and all.
So, I also ran the borescope down the spark plug holes. How obvious would piston - valve contact be? Would there be noticeable gouges/contact marks?
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 08:09:42 PMSo, I also ran the borescope down the spark plug holes. How obvious would piston - valve contact be? Would there be noticeable gouges/contact marks?
In most cases yes, you would see a clean spot if a valve hit hard. It's also possible that a light hit could bend a valve, one of those hit it just right situations. I'd hold any concerns until you pipe some air into the cylinders to see about leaks, it should be heard easily with 45 or 50 PSI.
Are you going to get an S&S pump? Just curious.
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 21, 2023, 08:20:19 PMQuote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 08:09:42 PMSo, I also ran the borescope down the spark plug holes. How obvious would piston - valve contact be? Would there be noticeable gouges/contact marks?
In most cases yes, you would see a clean spot if a valve hit hard. It's also possible that a light hit could bend a valve, one of those hit it just right situations. I'd hold any concerns until you pipe some air into the cylinders to see about leaks, it should be heard easily with 45 or 50 PSI.
Are you going to get an S&S pump? Just curious.
oh year, I completely forgot about shooting some air in the cyl.
no on S&S, I considered but went with a V-twin/Sifton replacement.
Six, remember the leak down test will have to be done at a point that you can still hold the engine from rolling over when you put the air to it. If you disassemble it too far to clean the debris you may lose the opportunity.
To answer your scope question, you should be able to see contact in the carbon or the piston with a good camera. I know my cheaper erosion certainly will. I have no carbon buildup and can read the part numbers and the eyebrow area is clear.
mmk...I haven't built a spark plug hole/gauge adapter, but I used the air spray gun with the rubber tip and applied 50 psi of air to the spark plug holes (1 at a time) and both made noise like you get when plugging an air hose into a tank. A echoie noise of air movement, I didn't sit for too long aired up but it did spew when I removed the air nozzle. I couldn't feel any air coming from the pushrod holes.
I have one of those 90 degree mirrors for my borescope...somewhere.
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 09:05:02 PMmmk...I haven't built a spark plug hole/gauge adapter, but I used the air spray gun with the rubber tip and applied 50 psi of air to the spark plug holes (1 at a time) and both made noise like you get when plugging an air hose into a tank. A echoie noise of air movement, I didn't sit for too long aired up but it did spew when I removed the air nozzle. I couldn't feel any air coming from the pushrod holes.
I have one of those 90 degree mirrors for my borescope...somewhere.
Are your pushrods removed?
Quote from: kd on April 21, 2023, 09:29:41 PMQuote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 09:05:02 PMmmk...I haven't built a spark plug hole/gauge adapter, but I used the air spray gun with the rubber tip and applied 50 psi of air to the spark plug holes (1 at a time) and both made noise like you get when plugging an air hose into a tank. A echoie noise of air movement, I didn't sit for too long aired up but it did spew when I removed the air nozzle. I couldn't feel any air coming from the pushrod holes.
I have one of those 90 degree mirrors for my borescope...somewhere.
Are your pushrods removed?
yes, rods, lifters, and tappet blocks are removed
Carb and air filter are still on. But with the cam removed... I doubt air from the bottom end would vet out the top ('97 is a top breather)
The rings will seal where ever they are in the bore. If you have a bent valve you should hear air coming out the carburetor, or the exhaust. Unless it happened to be a minute leak.
An easy air fitting if you have a welder is weld a quick disconnect air fitting to a 14mm spark plug body that has the ceramic removed. Slap an o-ring in place of the spark plug gasket. I made one 30+ years ago one evening I needed one. Still have it.
Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 09:30:36 PMQuote from: kd on April 21, 2023, 09:29:41 PMQuote from: SixShooter14 on April 21, 2023, 09:05:02 PMmmk...I haven't built a spark plug hole/gauge adapter, but I used the air spray gun with the rubber tip and applied 50 psi of air to the spark plug holes (1 at a time) and both made noise like you get when plugging an air hose into a tank. A echoie noise of air movement, I didn't sit for too long aired up but it did spew when I removed the air nozzle. I couldn't feel any air coming from the pushrod holes.
I have one of those 90 degree mirrors for my borescope...somewhere.
Are your pushrods removed?
yes, rods, lifters, and tappet blocks are removed
:up: What Ohio said while I was typing.
Then the valves should be fully on their seats and sealing. If the air up sound stops when it gets up to your pressure setting and it holds air (spews it out when you remove it), that's a good sign. It's much better if you can valve it off and listen undistracted for seeping under the pressure you have added. You can listen at the exhaust and intake. As you know, if it looses air into the crankcase it's rings and not head / valve damage.
Sorry I left you guys hanging... Been a busy couple months.
I replaced the oil pump with a Sifton one. Maybe I'll regret not going HV/HP, but I doubt it.
I did cut open the oil filter with snips and found nothing but real fine black powdery dust (same stuff you find on the drain plug magnet.
got the cam chest and oil passages good and clean and buttoned it back up. plenty of assy lube
Primed the new pump and turned it over a few dozen times by hand, then did a compression test.
A static compression check put both cylinders right at 160psi. sounds right to me
started it up and took about 2-3 minutes for the oil pressure light to go off. But it did... no noises, no knocking, no leaking...
rode it to work and back today without issue. Have a poker run on Saturday, so hopefully it's good.
Thank you all for the help.
Made my poker run on Saturday. Ran 250 miles through the twisty hilly roads. Bike ran great. I'm going to go ahead and change the oil/filter and go around with a torque wrench. But there's currently no leaks and she had no issues.
Also, I won $230 with a Full House and got tons of compliments on the sound and look of my bike. There's just something about a carb'd Harley. So, that's nice!!!