The reason I decided to do this modification, and drill the breather holes to .125" was because after about 15 minutes of higher rpm freeway riding (80-85mph, but I have a 32t front compensating sprocket so rpms we're 3000-3500 range). I started blowing white smoke out the pipe and puking oil out of the filter.
I'm (finally) finishing this up tomorrow and the breather holes and venting away from the bike will be done. Will sustained riding in the 3000-3500 range now be a recipe for oil pukage? I usually cruise in the 2700-3000 range, but once in a while...
It's a 117", 11.1:1 compression, CR595i build (140/136).
Which "breather holes" are you describing? It's the drain holes in the twin cam rocker stands that are usually drilled to .125" and chamfered.
Yes, in the rockers.
Some of us have also discovered lowering the oil level can help.At least 1/2 qt or so. Coff 06
Yes. I was going to run it a 1/2 quart lower than the manual recommendation.
If you are using a catch can you shouldn't have any more mess. As said you can try the lower oil level or leave it to see if it finds its happy place on its own. Just remember to check the catch can and monitor the out put into it. You'll get an idea when it stops. The liquid will be less oil and mostly water when settled in the container.
Quote from: kd on March 22, 2020, 07:16:17 PM
If you are using a catch can you shouldn't have any more mess. As said you can try the lower oil level or leave it to see if it finds its happy place on its own. Just remember to check the catch can and monitor the out put into it. You'll get an idea when it stops. The liquid will be less oil and mostly water when settled in the container.
So riding at sustained rpms of 3000-3500 for periods of time is all good now? FYI that's 6th gear between 75-80mph.
:up:
Quote from: kd on March 31, 2020, 03:32:22 PM
:up:
I filled to 3q. It's blown out about another 1/2q while riding at these rpms. So next fill should I only do 2.5q and call it a day. And with that low of oil should I change every 3k instead of every 5k?
That's where I run my 06 Softail.It found the happy spot a little more than a 1/2 qt low.Still do 5k mi oil changes and never have had any problems to date.65k mi. It's a 98" 11.4/1 123/118. Coff 06
Bike is running way better now that it's burning oil all day long! I think I found my "sweet spot" where all I get is a little bit of oily water... bike is an 09 street glide and when hot, on the jiffy stand, the oil just barley hits the very bottom of the dip stick. Any chance anybody would know roughly how much oil this would be? I was running a breather and will be switching to a catch can soon, so I couldn't keep track of how much fluid came out while riding.
As the weather warms up the water discharge should drop off.
the "sweet spot" will vary from bike to bike...depending on the engine build and condition of the engines health.
On mine the "sweet spot" ended up being 108 ounces of oil. The factory called for 4 quarts/128 ounces.
as kd stated...the warmer weather will show less oil and water that you get from the catch can.
Quote from: No Cents on April 08, 2020, 02:31:23 PM
the "sweet spot" will vary from bike to bike...depending on the engine build and condition of the engines health.
On mine the "sweet spot" ended up being 108 ounces of oil. The factory called for 4 quarts/128 ounces.
as kd stated...the warmer weather will show less oil in your water that you get from the catch can.
So I've found that sweet spot with my 117". It's there now. I started with 3q and now when I check the oil, hot, on the jiffy stand the oil just barley touches the bottom of the dip stick. I was checking to see if anybody knew (roughly) how much oil that would equate to.
One way to know for sure...
Well two, actually.
Quote from: 838 on April 08, 2020, 12:44:19 PM
Bike is an 09 street glide and when hot, on the jiffy stand, the oil just barley hits the very bottom of the dip stick. Any chance anybody would know roughly how much oil this would be?
About 1.5 quarts
Quote from: kd on March 22, 2020, 07:16:17 PM
If you are using a catch can you shouldn't have any more mess. As said you can try the lower oil level or leave it to see if it finds its happy place on its own. Just remember to check the catch can and monitor the out put into it. You'll get an idea when it stops. The liquid will be less oil and mostly water when settled in the container.
I just got a catch can and am going to install it. What I thought was my "happy spot" was not, I have the oil right now to where when hot, standing upright, the oil just touches the bottom of the dip stick and it's still dumping oil (mainly when I give some throttle). Can the "sweet spot" be this low?
I think it's time to look elsewhere.
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:44:27 AM
Quote from: kd on March 22, 2020, 07:16:17 PM
If you are using a catch can you shouldn't have any more mess. As said you can try the lower oil level or leave it to see if it finds its happy place on its own. Just remember to check the catch can and monitor the out put into it. You'll get an idea when it stops. The liquid will be less oil and mostly water when settled in the container.
I just got a catch can and am going to install it. What I thought was my "happy spot" was not, I have the oil right now to where when hot, standing upright, the oil just touches the bottom of the dip stick and it's still dumping oil (mainly when I give some throttle). Can the "sweet spot" be this low?
Have you done a leak down test on it just to confirm is all good? Seems excessive to me. Bob
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Generally speaking oil loss is from poor ring seal or loose valve guides/leaky valve seals. Sumping wont increase consumption it will kill power and make it idle poor. Bob
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 11:57:11 AM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Generally speaking oil loss is from poor ring seal or loose valve guides/leaky valve seals. Sumping wont increase consumption it will kill power and make it idle poor. Bob
Compression test still reads 210/210. I did this right before the breather mod. Excuse my ignorance but how would leaking valve guide seals cause oil to come out of the breathers?
IIRC the problem is oil discharge through the crankcase breathers. The head breathers, drains, ring leakage would be the top 3 places to look. If you had a catch can you could monitor it better but I think the leak down test should be done first to confirm it isn't crankcase pressure. Next the cylinder head breather valves (have they been assembled properly?). Do the suck and blow test. It wouldn't be the first time poor assembly was the issue. IIRC the rocker stand drain holes were opened up so if that was done they should not be the issue.
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 12:02:01 PM
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 11:57:11 AM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Generally speaking oil loss is from poor ring seal or loose valve guides/leaky valve seals. Sumping wont increase consumption it will kill power and make it idle poor. Bob
Compression test still reads 210/210. I did this right before the breather mod. Excuse my ignorance but how would leaking valve guide seals cause oil to come out of the breathers?
Leaky valve seals will allow oil past into the combustion chamber and increase oil usage, do you have the metal breathers in the rocker boxes and are they installed the right way. Was that a cold test done dry? How many cranks to hit 210? A leak down test will show any cylinder leakage. Bob
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 12:11:11 PM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 12:02:01 PM
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 11:57:11 AM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Generally speaking oil loss is from poor ring seal or loose valve guides/leaky valve seals. Sumping wont increase consumption it will kill power and make it idle poor. Bob
Compression test still reads 210/210. I did this right before the breather mod. Excuse my ignorance but how would leaking valve guide seals cause oil to come out of the breathers?
Leaky valve seals will allow oil past into the combustion chamber and increase oil usage, do you have the metal breathers in the rocker boxes and are they installed the right way. Was that a cold test done dry? How many cranks to hit 210? A leak down test will show any cylinder leakage. Bob
I have metal breathers How could they be installed wrong?
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 12:32:59 PM
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 12:11:11 PM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 12:02:01 PM
Quote from: FXDBI on April 24, 2020, 11:57:11 AM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Generally speaking oil loss is from poor ring seal or loose valve guides/leaky valve seals. Sumping wont increase consumption it will kill power and make it idle poor. Bob
Compression test still reads 210/210. I did this right before the breather mod. Excuse my ignorance but how would leaking valve guide seals cause oil to come out of the breathers?
Leaky valve seals will allow oil past into the combustion chamber and increase oil usage, do you have the metal breathers in the rocker boxes and are they installed the right way. Was that a cold test done dry? How many cranks to hit 210? A leak down test will show any cylinder leakage. Bob
I have metal breathers How could they be installed wrong?
It happens been more than one set in backwards on here search it up also rocker box gaskets in wrong , just a simple blow suck test will confirm there installation. Was also a problem with the screws being to long on some of the metal stamped breathers not allowing them to seal when tightened.
Bob
I have metal breathers How could they be installed wrong?
As said it is easy to do. You may find some good descriptions on how easy by searching for threads here. Finding one with good descriptions may remind you how you did yours, or you just do the test first to see how tight they seal. That's the first step before even thinking about popping the rocker covers off.
Quote from: kd on April 24, 2020, 12:59:18 PM
I have metal breathers How could they be installed wrong?
As said it is easy to do. You may find some good descriptions on how easy by searching for threads here. Finding one with good descriptions may remind you how you did yours, or you just do the test first to see how tight they seal. That's the first step before even thinking about popping the rocker covers off.
:agree:
I sure would stop chasing my tail with oil levels a such. In my shop it would be on the lift 2 rocker box gaskets ,2 stamped steel breather boxes ,2 cover gaskets. 2hours and i bet it would be good. as most of the shops will tell you how many bikes have been fixed from mistakes by others by r and r fresh parts and gaskets. So much of it is proper assembly.
After I upped the compression on my 110 FLSS it was building pressure in the oil tank at sustained high rpm and blowing the cap out, it already had the 1/8 holes in the plates and external vents, there was no oil coming out the vents.
After a bit of digging I decided to enlarge the exit passageway for the vented air by drilling out the breather bolts as big as feasable and replacing all associated fittings to 5/16 before the Y and 3/8 after the Y as well as bigger ID hoses. I ran a drill through all the new fittings as well to a safe maximum.
Can now run as hard as I like and the cap stays in place, this may not be your issue but perhaps some food for thought, hih.
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Did you get this resolved? What was the leak down? Don't leave us all hanging. Bob
Quote from: FXDBI on May 15, 2020, 07:12:25 PM
Quote from: 838 on April 24, 2020, 11:52:45 AM
I'm on my way to check this here in an hour or so... don't have a gauge, but a buddy has a shop. If leak down is good I'm thinking sumping??? Or misaligned oil pump???
Did you get this resolved? What was the leak down? Don't leave us all hanging. Bob
Leak down was 4% each, ccp was 210/210. But still oil was getting past. Going to fit a new set of pistons and rings soon :emoGroan: project on the fence for a while though. Luckily I've got a back up bike.