Ok so my bike is a 14 streetglide 103 , 34k on the clock , with exhaust, a/c , s&s 585 cams , power vision , tune , I did install Barnett heavy spring and more , but my clutch it doesn't engage till tight at the very end on the lever movement , I'd say at 80 or 85 percent disengagement , it does not slip as of now , I bought bike with 18k now my question is are my clutches on there last leg , I don't recall it being that far out for clutch engagement , and if I put a extra plate kit in it , would that bring my clutch engagement point closer to the grip ? Like I said I'm sure it's time for clutches just wondering if there is also an issue somewhere else , and while I'm here , sounds like compensator has a lil tok, tok sound to it at start up when cold mostly although it is there just not as loud after warm up !! Thanks for any and all input I can get on this !!
Is your clutch cable actuated or is it hydraulic? If a cable, that can be adjusted. If HYD. there is really no adjustment but it possibly does need to be bled (fluid changed) as that should be done every couple of years.
Hydraulic clutch
Switch to this (https://aim-tamachi.com/collections/light-force-slave-cylinder/products/light-force-master-cylinder-kit-for-2014-2016-hydraulic-clutch?variant=29230444609559)- expensive, but it helps with that issue.
I have a 2016 with hydraulic clutch... When I modded my bike and beefed up my clutch (Barnett spring & AIM VP).. the pull became a pain to deal with in stop & go traffic...
The above suggested AIM master/actuator is a good choice, however I went with the cheaper Muller Actuator... it's designed to be a straight swap with the pre-M8 clutch masters... it doesn't decrease the pull as much as the AIM, but it is a significant improvement...
The addition of the spring/VP didn't change the position of the clutch engagement on mine, but the Muller did appear to move the engagement point closer to the bars...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Muller-Motorcycles-AG-120-50-Hydro-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-14-16-Harley-Touring-/123752660701?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Mueller makes a slave for the early bikes that does not require a master cylinder. It will also move the friction zone.
I just had primary apart to remove stator, and i did a clutch adjustment. So now it catches early which i like, but seems to be harder to find neutral. Is there a cure for that? Is it the primary fluid level that is responsible for that?
Quote from: chas on April 21, 2020, 06:00:55 AM
I just had primary apart to remove stator, and i did a clutch adjustment. So now it catches early which i like, but seems to be harder to find neutral. Is there a cure for that? Is it the primary fluid level that is responsible for that?
Adjusting the system so the clutch starts to grab earlier (lever closer to the handlebar) results in less clutch plate separation, which increases drag on the mainshaft, reducing the ease of finding neutral.
There's a balance between lever feel & plate separation that usually requires compromises somewhere.
I also like mine close to the bar, and do experience a little clutch drag, especially when cold. I'm ok with that.
When trying to find neutral at a stop, bring the rpms up with the the clutch pulled, this will help separate the plates, allowing neutral to be found.
I typically pop into neutral from second while still rolling up to a stop.
-JW
I do also, but sometimes I just get cought in gear. Revving up a bit lets me find neutral.
Thanks Hoss - I will try reving it up to find neutral. I like the clutch closer to handlebar. Will it cause more wear to the plates having it there? would using type- f tranny fluid help also?
It is not ideal to have it drag for a lengthy time, it adds heat to the plates. A little drag now and then won't hurt, but if stopped with the clutch pulled in and it wants to creep forward a bit, or if on a slight incline and it doesn't roll back, readjust to take that much drag out.
I use type F with my Pro Clutch, recommended by Rivera. It will work fine with your clutch, but I have heard the new style compensators don't like it, but I cannot confirm that.
Can I get the pro clutch online? And that is added to the type f? How much is added? Do you find the shifting to be easier or smoother?
The Pro Clutch is a complete clutch assembly from Rivera, not sure of the cost, maybe $500 or so? More surface area on the clutch plates, and stronger spring.
Type F transmission fluid is used in place of the standard primary oil, Formula Plus or equivalent. My '01 takes one quart of type F transmission oil in the primary. My '12 takes 42 ounces per the book, standard clutch, I use Formula Plus.
Easy shifting is generally determined by the proper adjustment of the clutch, rather than the oil used, though it can come into play. And yes, the Pro Clutch shifts very smoothly, but the handle pull is a little harder, due to the heavier spring to hold the extra power.
https://riveraprimo.us/collections/featured/products/1056-0020
thanks again Hoss for the info
You're welcome, if you have any more questions, don't be afraid to ask. A lot of smarter folk here than I.
Also getting that clunk clunk from primary at idle , it shifts fine , performs as always and no trouble going into neutral , gonna go in the primary this week , I have read the spring pack gets weak or maybe it needs shims !! Anybody ever had this issue
Do this :wink:
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=82010.msg917659#msg917659
Ok so I pulled primary cover , took a video , has some slack , check it out and forgive the sound sucks !!