2011 Road King Police with about 35K miles starts running badly yesterday, idling rough and missing some at lower speeds.
Scanalyzer shows MAP sensor open/high, IAT sensor open/high, front O2 senser rich/high and CKP sensor out of synch.
Checked all wiring first, cleared codes and started it back up. Ran badly immediately and shows IAT open/high as the only code.
The TMAP sensor inside is a couple of little plastic tips sticking into the throttle body. Do these fail often enough to try a new one at 98.00?
a friend had the same troubles,
P 0113 : IAT Sensor Voltage Open High EFI
P 0374 : CKP Sensor Not Detected CARB
P 1353 : Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P 0505 : Loss of Idle Speed Control EFI
ended up being the ecm :(
I have had to replace five of them on my 2008 FLHX since I bought it new.
I borrowed a known good MAP sensor from a tech and will try it. Failing that I guess we're on the the ECM. Those are 360.00 each so the followup question is how often do they fail? We've never had one go bad on any of about 40 '08-later bikes in the fleet yet.
Quote from: fleetmechanic on November 22, 2018, 08:18:15 AM
I borrowed a known good MAP sensor from a tech and will try it. Failing that I guess we're on the the ECM. Those are 360.00 each so the followup question is how often do they fail? We've never had one go bad on any of about 40 '08-later bikes in the fleet yet.
Almost never.
I would suspect wiring long before an ECM. 5V Sensor reference & grounds are fed to sensors from the ECM, and I've seen 1 intermittent ground on pin 73 of the ECM cause multiple issues/codes.
I don't know why the sensors fail...but I've seen quit a few of them go bad on other bikes besides mine. The last two sensors I got was from Feuling for about 1/2 the cost of what I paid for one at the dealership.
Keep in mind that if your TMAP is really bad, even when you install a good one it may not run well for awhile. If it was run very long on the bad one, the ecm will have shifted the tune and it will take some time for it to pull it back.
I can tell when the sensor in my bike starts to go bad. It will show the same symptoms that the OP stated. It will start to idle rough and will get a good stumble in it at low speeds. On Jim Kennedy's dyno is where my first sensor failed. Each and every time I've replaced one the bike snaps right back to running normal and holds a steady map reading. With the bad sensors the map would be bouncing all over the place. I've scratched my head on this for years. :scratch:
With the initial list of codes that showed, a careful test of the wiring from the ECM will be done. I'll report whatever I learn.
Make sure the ground to the sensor is good. Your codes would indicate both T and Map are high.
check where the wires come over the backbone then down to the tmap I had 2 wires that were broken inside the wrapping used a voltmeter while wiggling the wires it caused the problems you have on yours mine was a 2011 ultra limited i wound up replacing the ecm tmap and racetuner and none of that was it it was the wires
I'll start by checking continuity from the ECM plug to the sensors. Last time it was caused by frayed wires on the ground pin at the TMAP sensor connector. Also on a 2011.
Quote from: fleetmechanic on November 22, 2018, 02:35:26 PM
I'll start by checking continuity from the ECM plug to the sensors. Last time it was caused by frayed wires on the ground pin at the connector. Also on a 2011.
I'd love to know what you find. :up:
Winter is quickly taking over around here and I planned on putting the bike up on the lift this winter and doing some checking myself on the wires that feed the sensor. I know something has to be causing my bike to eat one every other year.
Update:
None of the manuals show how to properly disassemble the Bosch connector on the TMAP sensor so I damaged the housing trying to get the terminal sockets out. Ordered the housing and 1 terminal for the ground wire that was weak and installed them today and the bike started up and ran OK but the check engine light linked to the MAP being Open/Low. Then found that the power terminal wasn't getting 5 volts. That red wire also broke where the blue rubber seal is crimped to the terminal socket. Now I've ordered another terminal socket. They are sold individually at one to a bag.
Quote from: No Cents on November 22, 2018, 04:06:43 PM
Quote from: fleetmechanic on November 22, 2018, 02:35:26 PM
I'll start by checking continuity from the ECM plug to the sensors. Last time it was caused by frayed wires on the ground pin at the connector. Also on a 2011.
I'd love to know what you find. :up:
Winter is quickly taking over around here and I planned on putting the bike up on the lift this winter and doing some checking myself on the wires that feed the sensor. I know something has to be causing my bike to eat one every other year.
That's odd. They are generally a very reliable sensor. :idunno:
Ron
thanks for the update :up:
Looks like mine will be going up on the lift this winter and I'll be testing some wires. Not my most favorite job...but it has to be checked.
And the answer to all the codes seems to be that the wires for the 5V power and the ground at the MAP sensor plug were weak and failing. New terminal sockets on those two wires along with the new plug body to replace the one I damaged seem to have cleared everything codewise and the bike runs well at all speeds. Never tried the loaner MAP sensor as the old one works fine.
it definitely sounds like I need to get mine up on the lift and do some checking of the wires.
Thanks for letting us know exactly what you found. :up:
A couple of hundred miles later and no return of any problems.
:up:
think I posted this before but if you need the connector you could look here
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109