Getting closer.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head8_zpspekxulb1.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head7_zpsezgryawr.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head6_zpstss4grvt.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head1_zpsvneitvcu.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head3_zps2weppdhd.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head2_zps7k6woftf.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Head5_zpsacy2zupm.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0268_zpsybz4rq3e.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0265_zpsfkmtz2mv.jpg)
details ?
And just in time for winter. At least I these parts...sigh
Very Nice
Give us more.
You hos askin all dese questions lookin to get smacked ? Keep ur pimp hand strong :doh:
lookin good Ed! :up:
Ray
:up: Looks great, I always like your projects. :up:
Looks Good. Is that a mid control bagger you are building there looks interesting.
Quote from: Just Nick on January 08, 2016, 08:08:32 AM
Looks Good. Is that a mid control bagger you are building there looks interesting.
FXR..
:up: Cool work BTW.. Are the heads shown at Baisley's shop?
Nice work on the heads.. missing the vane some one but some time in those :up: :up: Should be a ripper :chop:
Looks like the honeymoon is over for you.. the last build was on the dinning table...lol
Great works as always..
Quote from: Max Headflow on January 08, 2016, 08:12:33 AM
Quote from: Just Nick on January 08, 2016, 08:08:32 AM
Looks Good. Is that a mid control bagger you are building there looks interesting.
FXR..
:up: Cool work BTW.. Are the heads shown at Baisley's shop?
Thanks. These are being done at Zippers by Adam H, the child protege of the late Dick Hilferty (RIP).
Quote from: TweekmyTwin on January 08, 2016, 08:16:48 AM
Looks like the honeymoon is over for you.. the last build was on the dinning table...lol
Great works as always..
It's not over yet. These pictures are of just one of countless mockups. The pistons, valves, springs and heads still have to go out for various coatings and treatments. As per household SOP, final assembly will happen in the guesthouse dinning room.
Quote from: Just Nick on January 08, 2016, 08:08:32 AM
Looks Good. Is that a mid control bagger you are building there looks interesting.
Max already called it out, but no, not a bagger. I know this website is pretty much bagger centric, and I have a bagger, but I don't really understand why guys put so much effort into them. Would rather focus my efforts on a light bike that will turn, like an FXR. But to each their own.
some nice eye candy - looks good :up:
Quote from: TorQueInc on January 08, 2016, 05:28:05 AM
details ?
Its just a little carb'd 124 with RedShift 687 cams and heads with a 2.150" intake, new S&S crank built w/Carrillo rods. Will be going into my new FXR project.
Neat project. When I saw the heads I was thinking Hemi Designs. Bet it's going to be a beast.
Is the transmission case from a Dyna or a bagger?
I also like the "oil pump" adapter plate. Cool no nonsense piece.
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 09:58:59 AM
Quote from: Just Nick on January 08, 2016, 08:08:32 AM
Looks Good. Is that a mid control bagger you are building there looks interesting.
Max already called it out, but no, not a bagger. I know this website is pretty much bagger centric, and I have a bagger, but I don't really understand why guys put so much effort into them. Would rather focus my efforts on a light bike that will turn, like an FXR. But to each their own.
I went back and looked closer and seen its a FXR I have always wanted to build a FXR for myself they are imo the best Harley has built.
Quote from: rageglide on January 08, 2016, 10:32:56 AM
Neat project. When I saw the heads I was thinking Hemi Designs. Bet it's going to be a beast.
Is the transmission case from a Dyna or a bagger?
I also like the "oil pump" adapter plate. Cool no nonsense piece.
There is no oil pump adapter plate used here. The engine case is an S&S TC w/Evo style rear mount. I originally planned to use an FXR type trans case, even went as far as to build a trans using a Delkron case. The issue with that arrangement is the oil tank being above the oil pump and the lack of a check valve in the TC oil pump.
So, in with the FL trans with a belly oil pan. Extensive mods had to be made to fit the pan into the frame without cutting the frame.
Here are a few pictures;
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0095_zps95iesfcb.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0096_zps8stocfom.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0211_zpsjeeye1yh.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0210_zpspse4ffkq.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0085_zps28qonqbm.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0269_zps4o05luvp.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0235_zpskr4d1eun.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0228_zpsxgwuwwhk.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0237_zpsdfuszide.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0236_zpsjegfvb18.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0230_zpsozcajjea.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0233_zpscuzmwrxb.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0039_zps7a7ed40b.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0043_zpsa3196930.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0042_zps7170853f.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0041_zpsc6507963.jpg)
What did you end up doing for an inner primary case?
Seriously impressed. :up:
I didn't see the casting after of the cam chest in the first picture, it blended in. So I was thinking you came up with a bolt on adapter for the oil lines. (without bolts as I look a second time lol)
Looks like the oil pan presented quite a challenge. 3 different tries?
Are you having to modify the frame? Sure looks like a tight fit from the pics.
Thanks for sharing
bob
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 08, 2016, 01:01:57 PM
What did you end up doing for an inner primary case?
A standard FXR inner primary bolts on, no issues. I have a small pile of Delkron inners, one of them will be used here.
Quote from: rageglide on January 08, 2016, 01:03:38 PM
Seriously impressed. :up:
I didn't see the casting after of the cam chest in the first picture, it blended in. So I was thinking you came up with a bolt on adapter for the oil lines. (without bolts as I look a second time lol)
Looks like the oil pan presented quite a challenge. 3 different tries?
Are you having to modify the frame? Sure looks like a tight fit from the pics.
Thanks for sharing
bob
I made three pans. Two for me, one for Paul Morris.
11th Commandment clearly states, one shall not cut an FXR frame. No mods to the frame required. The oil modified oil pan clears both cross members, the right side too control and the kickstand bracket on the crossmember.
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 01:13:08 PM
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 08, 2016, 01:01:57 PM
What did you end up doing for an inner primary case?
A standard FXR inner primary bolts on, no issues. I have a small pile of Delkron inners, one of them will be used here.
Yes I knew it would. I just wondered if you went with stock or the Delkron.
The 124's with Evo style mounts I have seen in the FXR frames have always require attention to detail where the primary is concerned for strength reasons.
The best results were from the heavier inner or the stock one if it was hollow doweled to the engine case and the engine case, trans case, and inner primary were all set up on a surface plate or mill so there was no twist or pull when any bolt was tightened.
Great looking project, look forward to following your progress.
Looks awesome Ed!!! Great work as usual :up:
Is this one of the bike's you are planning on taking to the Expo?
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 01:15:42 PM
I made three pans. Two for me, one for Paul Morris.
11th Commandment clearly states, one shall not cut an FXR frame. No mods to the frame required. The oil modified oil pan clears both cross members, the right side too control and the kickstand bracket on the crossmember.
Ahhhh. Yes I would agree, thou shalt not modify the FXR frame. I have a hard time with the concept of cutting up any clean survivor frame.
Two custom Rocker covers in the works?
Quote from: Durwood on January 08, 2016, 02:16:03 PM
Looks awesome Ed!!! Great work as usual :up:
Is this bike's you are planning on taking to the Expo?
Thanks Daren. This is for one of the bikes that is possibly going to Cinci. There are issues right now that are being worked, i.e. the painter, the exhibiting company and paying my expenses, some carbon fiber components still haven't arrived, etc. Feel like I am in one of those silly bike building TV shows with a stupid deadline to meet.
Quote from: rageglide on January 08, 2016, 02:22:14 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 01:15:42 PM
I made three pans. Two for me, one for Paul Morris.
11th Commandment clearly states, one shall not cut an FXR frame. No mods to the frame required. The oil modified oil pan clears both cross members, the right side too control and the kickstand bracket on the crossmember.
Ahhhh. Yes I would agree, thou shalt not modify the FXR frame. I have a hard time with the concept of cutting up any clean survivor frame.
Two custom Rocker covers in the works?
No need for custom rocker boxes, yet. The engine was mocked up for height in the frame. Plenty of clearance then and the heads have since been shaved a few times.
Additionally, I had planned and sourced a set of S&S billet rocker boxes for this. While mocking up I realized how difficult it is to get the top covers in and out on the rear head. The top cover for the billet boxes has mounting screws that are inboard, in a somewhat stock evo location. The cast boxes have their mounting bolts along the outer perimeter of the top cover. Much easier to work with within the FXR chassis. The oem harley boxes that I wanted to use are incompatible with the S&S compression releases. The final rocker box set up consists of S&S cast boxes, Baisley corrected geometry rockers, Rocker Lockers, S&S electronic compression releases and the S&S heads have been machined to use standard Evo style head breathers.
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 08, 2016, 01:31:55 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 01:13:08 PM
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 08, 2016, 01:01:57 PM
What did you end up doing for an inner primary case?
A standard FXR inner primary bolts on, no issues. I have a small pile of Delkron inners, one of them will be used here.
Yes I knew it would. I just wondered if you went with stock or the Delkron.
The 124's with Evo style mounts I have seen in the FXR frames have always require attention to detail where the primary is concerned for strength reasons.
The best results were from the heavier inner or the stock one if it was hollow doweled to the engine case and the engine case, trans case, and inner primary were all set up on a surface plate or mill so there was no twist or pull when any bolt was tightened.
Great looking project, look forward to following your progress.
Aligning the FXR trans case, engine case and inner primary has always been an issue. My red FXR has a .055" shim plate between the trans and engine mounting surfaces. And that is with all Delkron cases (engine, trans and inner primary).
Last year at Cinci I met with people from Delkron to show them the issue. I had a set of oem engine, trans and inner primary cases as well as a set of Delkron stuff and all the hardware to bolt everything together. No matter what combination we used, the FXR trans case required .080", yep eighty thousandths, of a shim between the engine and trans to get the inner to slip on and off without binding. That was after loosening and snugging bolts in different sequences to get everything in a happy unstressed position. The Delkron people were surprised and I gave them the evo engine and trans case to take with them for measuring.
The current setup is an S&S case with evo style rear mount, an oem harley FL trans case from a late model bagger, and a Delkron inner primary. Everything fits together very nicely. Once the engine to trans mounting bolts are tightened, the inner can be unbolted and slipped on and off without any issue.
:up: :up:
Very cool!
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 02:57:01 PM
Quote from: Durwood on January 08, 2016, 02:16:03 PM
Looks awesome Ed!!! Great work as usual :up:
Is this one of the bike's you are planning on taking to the Expo?
Thanks Daren. This is for one of the bikes that is possibly going to Cinci. There are issues right now that are being worked, i.e. the painter, the exhibiting company and paying my expenses, some carbon fiber components still haven't arrived, etc. Feel like I am in one of those silly bike building TV shows with a stupid deadline to meet.
I meant to say "one of the bikes". Corrected now :embarrassed:
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 03:04:18 PM
No need for custom rocker boxes, yet. The engine was mocked up for height in the frame. Plenty of clearance then and the heads have since been shaved a few times.
Additionally, I had planned and sourced a set of S&S billet rocker boxes for this. While mocking up I realized how difficult it is to get the top covers in and out on the rear head. The top cover for the billet boxes has mounting screws that are inboard, in a somewhat stock evo location. The cast boxes have their mounting bolts along the outer perimeter of the top cover. Much easier to work with within the FXR chassis. The oem harley boxes that I wanted to use are incompatible with the S&S compression releases. The final rocker box set up consists of S&S cast boxes, Baisley corrected geometry rockers, Rocker Lockers, S&S electronic compression releases and the S&S heads have been machined to use standard Evo style head breathers.
Looks tight from here. ;-) I always appreciated that little extra space freed up by milled heads - on a softail. Which seems like a cake walk in comparison to your set up.
Sounds like it's going to be a neat hybrid and sure to attract plenty of eye prints... :up:
11th Commandment clearly states, one shall not cut an FXR frame
Amen.
I slapped a TC engine in My FXR with FXR trans using an adapter plate. The elevated oil tank has not been a problem.
Nice project. Looks great.
Quote from: rageglide on January 08, 2016, 03:51:27 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 03:04:18 PM
No need for custom rocker boxes, yet. The engine was mocked up for height in the frame. Plenty of clearance then and the heads have since been shaved a few times.
Additionally, I had planned and sourced a set of S&S billet rocker boxes for this. While mocking up I realized how difficult it is to get the top covers in and out on the rear head. The top cover for the billet boxes has mounting screws that are inboard, in a somewhat stock evo location. The cast boxes have their mounting bolts along the outer perimeter of the top cover. Much easier to work with within the FXR chassis. The oem harley boxes that I wanted to use are incompatible with the S&S compression releases. The final rocker box set up consists of S&S cast boxes, Baisley corrected geometry rockers, Rocker Lockers, S&S electronic compression releases and the S&S heads have been machined to use standard Evo style head breathers.
Looks tight from here. ;-) I always appreciated that little extra space freed up by milled heads - on a softail. Which seems like a cake walk in comparison to your set up.
Sounds like it's going to be a neat hybrid and sure to attract plenty of eye prints... :up:
Thanks. The FXR chassis is constrained for space. A friend has a 131 wedged into his FXR and it is quite a challenge to work on. Typically, the engine can be lowered at the front engine mount to make room on the rear rocker box, but with the 131 the front rocker box will hit the frame if it is lowered just a little bit. Much easier to use an engine with shorter height. Next engine will probably have a 4" or shorter stroke.
I really give a dam about eye prints or anything else. The only reasons my bikes have been to Cinci is the various companies pay for my trip and the pro-bono parts hookups I get as a result of the bikes being there.
Here are a few pics of my other FXRs;
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/IMG_0257_zpscync5kwy.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/Black%20FXR_zpsukr9niox.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/Black%20FXR%202_zpsyj70ygf5.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/331297_467631303258779_1103175598_o_zpsmkuf4am9.jpg)
Sweet thread
World Class build Ed, World Class! Thanks for sharing! :beer: -Tutt
Very nice stable of bikes you have there Ed. Damn!
Head's welded at all?
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 03:13:35 PM
[snip]
Last year at Cinci I met with people from Delkron to show them the issue. I had a set of oem engine, trans and inner primary cases as well as a set of Delkron stuff and all the hardware to bolt everything together. No matter what combination we used, the FXR trans case required .080", yep eighty thousandths, of a shim between the engine and trans to get the inner to slip on and off without binding. That was after loosening and snugging bolts in different sequences to get everything in a happy unstressed position. The Delkron people were surprised and I gave them the evo engine and trans case to take with them for measuring.
The current setup is an S&S case with evo style rear mount, an oem harley FL trans case from a late model bagger, and a Delkron inner primary. Everything fits together very nicely. Once the engine to trans mounting bolts are tightened, the inner can be unbolted and slipped on and off without any issue.
0.080? Wouldn't call that a shim.. I'd call that a spacer.. :wink: Who's the ugly guy in the pic?
Quote from: Max Headflow on January 08, 2016, 07:45:48 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 03:13:35 PM
[snip]
Last year at Cinci I met with people from Delkron to show them the issue. I had a set of oem engine, trans and inner primary cases as well as a set of Delkron stuff and all the hardware to bolt everything together. No matter what combination we used, the FXR trans case required .080", yep eighty thousandths, of a shim between the engine and trans to get the inner to slip on and off without binding. That was after loosening and snugging bolts in different sequences to get everything in a happy unstressed position. The Delkron people were surprised and I gave them the evo engine and trans case to take with them for measuring.
The current setup is an S&S case with evo style rear mount, an oem harley FL trans case from a late model bagger, and a Delkron inner primary. Everything fits together very nicely. Once the engine to trans mounting bolts are tightened, the inner can be unbolted and slipped on and off without any issue.
0.080? Wouldn't call that a shim.. I'd call that a spacer.. :wink: Who's the ugly guy in the pic?
That guy, he is just a non-paid, will work for beer, booth setter upper. Sharp dresser though.
I would love to add an FXR to my stable, but need to swap out, no space! Would love to see those bikes in person. Attention to detail is world class!
Working on friends FXRs was always interesting, different than rigid mounted. A few challenges, such as you noted drop the front to get to the rear. Of course the stock evo isn't a big deal in that regard. Pulling an oil pump had me cussing a bit...
When I built my 120R one of the reasons I didn't go 124+ was the added height. In retrospect a non-issue...
In the original post, there's 3 pics of a head. Are the first two "before" and the last "after" of the same head? The valve recess is much deeper and larger. :scratch:
I like your FXR's (and build info.) a LOT.
Quote from: Breeze on January 09, 2016, 06:34:09 AM
In the original post, there's 3 pics of a head. Are the first two "before" and the last "after" of the same head? The valve recess is much deeper and larger. :scratch:
I like your FXR's (and build info.) a LOT.
Thanks for the kind words.
The heads still aren't finished. The pics are various stages of their development. Yesterday they were sent to Polydyn for various treatments. When that is done, there will be another mock up and then the final decking of the heads.
These heads started out as NIB S&S Super Stock castings with their 4 ⅛" bolt pattern. Intake is 2.150", exhaust is 1.680" (I think).
ALways love to see your projects Ed! :up:
I was thinkin earlier... Ed, since you mentioned one of the oil tanks was for Paul... I guess that means he's got a plan up his sleeve too... :pop:
Quote from: rageglide on January 09, 2016, 10:32:23 AM
I was thinkin earlier... Ed, since you mentioned one of the oil tanks was for Paul... I guess that means he's got a plan up his sleeve too... :pop:
I cannot confirm or deny anything.
:hyst: Sure you can't....
That black FXR is right up my alley!
Nice looking build. They look so pretty going in but its amazing how fast they loose that shiney stuff. My new motor was so pretty on the stand, a month in the bike and it looks like its 2 years old. Lol
Quote from: HighLiner on January 09, 2016, 02:35:33 PM
That black FXR is right up my alley!
Same here I showed my wife the pics of the fxr's and even she said that black one is sexy. That has got to be one of the nicest fxr's I have ever seen.
Quote from: Just Nick on January 10, 2016, 10:23:37 AM
Quote from: HighLiner on January 09, 2016, 02:35:33 PM
That black FXR is right up my alley!
Same here I showed my wife the pics of the fxr's and even she said that black one is sexy. That has got to be one of the nicest fxr's I have ever seen.
It sure is-
You guys need to build or buy one and join the cult...
ED-
Coming along nicely, but as you said, a buch of work to do.
As usual, attention to detail and build focus is at an elite level. No cutting corners, not accepting good enough, till it's the best it can be... :up:
Quote from: pwmorris on January 10, 2016, 11:15:00 AM
Quote from: Just Nick on January 10, 2016, 10:23:37 AM
Quote from: HighLiner on January 09, 2016, 02:35:33 PM
That black FXR is right up my alley!
Same here I showed my wife the pics of the fxr's and even she said that black one is sexy. That has got to be one of the nicest fxr's I have ever seen.
It sure is-
You guys need to build or buy one and join the cult...
ED-
Coming along nicely, but as you said, a buch of work to do.
As usual, attention to detail and build focus is at an elite level. No cutting corners, not accepting good enough, till it's the best it can be... :up:
Thanks Paul, you carry a big stick and your praise means allot me.
I agree , the AN fittings are dead sexy and feel they always give that extra touch.. Nice job its looking great .
Quote from: pwmorris on January 10, 2016, 11:15:00 AM
Quote from: Just Nick on January 10, 2016, 10:23:37 AM
Quote from: HighLiner on January 09, 2016, 02:35:33 PM
That black FXR is right up my alley!
Same here I showed my wife the pics of the fxr's and even she said that black one is sexy. That has got to be one of the nicest fxr's I have ever seen.
It sure is-
You guys need to build or buy one and join the cult...
ED-
Coming along nicely, but as you said, a buch of work to do.
As usual, attention to detail and build focus is at an elite level. No cutting corners, not accepting good enough, till it's the best it can be... :up:
I told the wife I have always wanted to do a fxr for me and she rolled her eyes and said" really another bike let me guess this one will need a 124" motor also you already got two with big ass motors" the good thing is she never says no when it comes to bikes for me. Maybe next year I will take in a fxr build for me I just started a 08 dyna build so it can wait. I got a 86 fxrc in the shop for sale right now that I bet I could get for 4K or so it's been for sale at my shop for a year or more the owner hates people so he don't advertise it and I'm not known for selling bikes I bet it will be there when I'm ready to buy a fxr its stamped number like 1125 out of 1250 that year. I would just hate to change it from oem to much
Awesome work Ed. I love the FXR as well, I just picked up 2 more projects for me, that makes 3 in my stable. I just got an '86 GTE and a '94 police, plans are a 113" TC in one and possibly a 132 X wedge in the other. Not positive on the x wedge because, like you, I hate to modify the frame. Is there any chance you'd do another oil pan ol buddy ol pal?
Quote from: harleytuner on January 10, 2016, 05:41:49 PM
Awesome work Ed. I love the FXR as well, I just picked up 2 more projects for me, that makes 3 in my stable. I just got an '86 GTE and a '94 police, plans are a 113" TC in one and possibly a 132 X wedge in the other. Not positive on the x wedge because, like you, I hate to modify the frame. Is there any chance you'd do another oil pan ol buddy ol pal?
A friend of mine has taken one of the three I made and has drawn it, modified it some and plans to CNC one out of 6061. Once I proof it for form and fit, he is going to have a mold made and start producing them from injection molded high temp resin. Similar to those used on many of the big diesel engines. I don't know what his target price is yet. The drawing looks very good.
Quote from: turboprop on January 10, 2016, 06:02:52 PM
Quote from: harleytuner on January 10, 2016, 05:41:49 PM
Awesome work Ed. I love the FXR as well, I just picked up 2 more projects for me, that makes 3 in my stable. I just got an '86 GTE and a '94 police, plans are a 113" TC in one and possibly a 132 X wedge in the other. Not positive on the x wedge because, like you, I hate to modify the frame. Is there any chance you'd do another oil pan ol buddy ol pal?
A friend of mine has taken one of the three I made and has drawn it, modified it some and plans to CNC one out of 6061. Once I proof it for form and fit, he is going to have a mold made and start producing them from injection molded high temp resin. Similar to those used on many of the big diesel engines. I don't know what his target price is yet. The drawing looks very good.
Sounds awesome, hopefully it all comes together quickly lol.
Amazing work. Is that a Sawicki pipe on the black and gold bike? I've been reading some good things online about that pipe, but you never know if those "reviews" are real and genuine.
Zach
Quote from: biggzed on January 12, 2016, 10:46:34 AM
Amazing work. Is that a Sawicki pipe on the black and gold bike? I've been reading some good things online about that pipe, but you never know if those "reviews" are real and genuine.
Zach
I know Tyler Sawicki, but no that is not one of his pipes. The stainless pipe on the black bike is a Bassani pipe that he private labels for a kid in San Diego with a little online store named Thrashin Supply.
Will add that IMO, the Thrashing Supply/Bassani pipe was not designed for performance but for appearances and to fit multiple pipes. The pipe will fit all models of the FXR and dyna, regardless of wether they have mid controls, floor boards or forward controls. The head pipes are too short as the collector is in front of the nose cone.
The pipe on the black bike was given to me as compensation for putting the bike in the booth at Cinci. The pipe was sold within a week of returning from the show as I felt is was way too small to work on the 124 Moonshine engine. Would probably work ok on a much smaller engine.
http://www.thrashinsupply.com/products/thrashin-tsc-stainless-steel-pipe (http://www.thrashinsupply.com/products/thrashin-tsc-stainless-steel-pipe)
Thanks Ed.
Zach
Great thread Ed,any idea on the carb,pipe and compression that you will use on this set up.I see that Zippers has 687 cam for an evo spec. are a little different.I was also thinking about trying the 687 in my evo build instead of the 715 that I have.
John
Quote from: John/1 on January 12, 2016, 07:30:58 PM
Great thread Ed,any idea on the carb,pipe and compression that you will use on this set up.I see that Zippers has 687 cam for an evo spec. are a little different.I was also thinking about trying the 687 in my evo build instead of the 715 that I have.
John
This engine will use a Guppy III pipe and initially a Mik48 carb with a Vulcan back plate, a super D intake and the BIG air cleaner from Zippers. I may eventually transition the engine over to some type of fuel injection.
I think you will like the RedShift 687 cam(s).
Quote from: turboprop on January 12, 2016, 02:57:24 PM
Quote from: biggzed on January 12, 2016, 10:46:34 AM
Amazing work. Is that a Sawicki pipe on the black and gold bike? I've been reading some good things online about that pipe, but you never know if those "reviews" are real and genuine.
Zach
I know Tyler Sawicki, but no that is not one of his pipes. The stainless pipe on the black bike is a Bassani pipe that he private labels for a kid in San Diego with a little online store named Thrashin Supply.
Is that the guy that molested your bike last year?
Quote from: Max Headflow on January 12, 2016, 09:35:49 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 12, 2016, 02:57:24 PM
Quote from: biggzed on January 12, 2016, 10:46:34 AM
Amazing work. Is that a Sawicki pipe on the black and gold bike? I've been reading some good things online about that pipe, but you never know if those "reviews" are real and genuine.
Zach
I know Tyler Sawicki, but no that is not one of his pipes. The stainless pipe on the black bike is a Bassani pipe that he private labels for a kid in San Diego with a little online store named Thrashin Supply.
Is that the guy that molested your bike last year?
Tyler S is in Canada and is a really good dude. No, the kid that molested my bike last year was a stunt rider from San Diego named Lance Courey. Lance is the owner of that Thrashin Supply site that Bassani private labels that pipe for. For whatever reason young Lance thought it was appropriate for him to put one of his stickers on the bike as well as replace the foot pegs with his own. I swear, next time I am in SD I am going to find that guy and put a bunch of stickers on his bike when he isn't looking.
Awesome, just awesome.
Stupid question that piston is in grams? Who made the piston?
Quote from: N-gin on January 13, 2016, 03:26:43 AM
Awesome, just awesome.
Stupid question that piston is in grams? Who made the piston?
Thank you for the kind words.
Piston weight is shown in grams. The piston started out as a Axtell/JE 30 degree blank. Zippers made a few changes to it.
It's already been said, but that all black bike is AWESOME!!
I don't think I've ever seen an FXR that I liked better than that!!
~John
Again, both bikes are exactly the same except for paint and gauges. The pipe shown and the black bike was only there for a week and has since been replaced with a black Bassani 2-1, same as the red bike.
Quote from: turboprop on January 12, 2016, 08:02:28 PM
Quote from: John/1 on January 12, 2016, 07:30:58 PM
Great thread Ed,any idea on the carb,pipe and compression that you will use on this set up.I see that Zippers has 687 cam for an evo spec. are a little different.I was also thinking about trying the 687 in my evo build instead of the 715 that I have.
John
This engine will use a Guppy III pipe and initially a Mik48 carb with a Vulcan back plate, a super D intake and the BIG air cleaner from Zippers. I may eventually transition the engine over to some type of fuel injection.
I think you will like the RedShift 687 cam(s).
I was thinking if I went to a 687 I would set mine up 12.5 to 1.?What are your plans on your compression
John
Quote from: turboprop on January 15, 2016, 03:56:56 PM
Again, both bikes are exactly the same except for paint and gauges. The pipe shown and the black bike was only there for a week and has since been replaced with a black Bassani 2-1, same as the red bike.
I guess I'm always in the minority, the two-tone fxr with the Guppy pipe has got the look for me.
You're not alone. I'd kick my bagger over to have any one of those bikes.
Zach
Quote from: JONNY CASH on January 15, 2016, 04:27:36 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 15, 2016, 03:56:56 PM
Again, both bikes are exactly the same except for paint and gauges. The pipe shown and the black bike was only there for a week and has since been replaced with a black Bassani 2-1, same as the red bike.
I guess I'm always in the minority, the two-tone fxr with the Guppy pipe has got the look for me.
This pair beats a full house
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/Black%20FXR%202_zpsyj70ygf5.jpg)
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 17, 2016, 07:04:17 PM
This pair beats a full house
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/Black%20FXR%202_zpsyj70ygf5.jpg)
To all, thanks for the kind words. Means allot.
Surprised nobody has mentioned the third FXR frame in the back. Also have a few more out in the barn, all with clear titles. Should keep me busy for a few years.
Hoarder.
:SM:
:up:
Quote from: turboprop on January 17, 2016, 08:08:04 PM
Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 17, 2016, 07:04:17 PM
This pair beats a full house
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/Black%20FXR%202_zpsyj70ygf5.jpg)
To all, thanks for the kind words. Means allot.
Surprised nobody has mentioned the third FXR frame in the back. Also have a few more out in the barn, all with clear titles. Should keep me busy for a few years.
Which bike gets this engine?
The frame in the back is getting the new engine.
Which forks and front wheel size on the black bike?
BTW admire the work you have done on these.
Quote from: Deye76 on January 18, 2016, 06:48:02 AM
Which forks and front wheel size on the black bike?
BTW admire the work you have done on these.
The forks on both bikes are the same, only difference is the upper tubes on the red bike were sent out to be black anodized.
Front wheel is a harley narrow glide hub with 25mm bearings laced to a 17" x 3.5" Excel rim.
Fork legs are KYB 43mm inverted on custom trees.
Quote from: turboprop on January 18, 2016, 05:33:01 PM
Quote from: Deye76 on January 18, 2016, 06:48:02 AM
Which forks and front wheel size on the black bike?
BTW admire the work you have done on these.
The forks on both bikes are the same, only difference is the upper tubes on the red bike were sent out to be black anodized.
Front wheel is a harley narrow glide hub with 25mm bearings laced to a 17" x 3.5" Excel rim.
Fork legs are KYB 43mm inverted on custom trees.
That sounds like a entree description in a menu at a gourmet restaurant.
All 3 of those bikes are awesome :up: :up: :up: - it would be hard pick just one. :nix:
If a guy was looking for an FXR, any year's better than others?? :fish:
Quote from: sfmichael on January 19, 2016, 06:55:55 PM
All 3 of those bikes are awesome :up: :up: :up: - it would be hard pick just one. :nix:
If a guy was looking for an FXR, any year's better than others?? :fish:
As a general rule of thumb, the newer the better. Keep in mind, FXR production stopped after '94. Then in '99 and '00 Harley used up their remaining stock of frames with the CVO models.
In dealing with used FXR's its a rare bike that has not been tinkered with. Electrical systems are typically ratty, hardware is corroded, 'improvements' have been made. The issues with the various drivetrains, engines, suspensions and brakes are not unique to the FXR but are year specific. Good example is when harley changed from tapered main shafts to splined main shafts in the transmission. That change pretty much happened across all model at the same time.
A good FXR to score would be one that has a 39mm fork, twin front disks, a tapered transmission main shaft, mid controls, cast spoke wheels, oem factory soft bags. For the gas tank, I like the one with a smooth top and a single cap on the right side, next is the one with a speedo and tach on tank. Everything else will fall into place.
To buy an old FXR can be allot of fun. Done right they handle better than any production street model harley ever made and can be set up to tour almost as well as modern baggers. I have friends that have installed 103" TC drivetrains, complete with fly by wire fuel injection, electronic cruise control, integrated audio, etc. Guys like Paul Morris are racing them. But in reality, FXRs are not for most of the current harley crowd.
The last sentence in the above reply is about as true as it comes, fxr's are not for modifying the frames they are not making any more. I had a guy come in earlier this year with his fxrc that had chopped the frame so stretch the front end way out there and he wanted us to fix his screw up I told him to kick rocks. I'm not a fxr guy because I don't own one always have wanted one but not yet I got a 85 or 86 fxrc in the shop that's been there for about a year that the guy only wants 4500 for I might try to pick it up later this year this thing is all original except for the pipes and carb real nice condition for a 30 year old bike with only 40k ish miles on it it's even numbered 1125 out of 1250 that year for the fxrc. The only problem I would have is I would want to make it look like one of turbos bikes and the wife might throw the towel in on another bike I completely redo.
Turboprop great work on all your amazing bikes one day I will fulfill my dream of a fxr like yours
Do these custom trees retain the stock geometry? Was just wondering if you had to make some some changes due to the smaller 17" front wheel/tire combo.
These bikes are really amazing. Beautiful to look at and built with a purpose. You are a craftsman.
Zach
Quote from: turboprop on January 18, 2016, 05:33:01 PM
The forks on both bikes are the same, only difference is the upper tubes on the red bike were sent out to be black anodized.
Front wheel is a harley narrow glide hub with 25mm bearings laced to a 17" x 3.5" Excel rim.
Fork legs are KYB 43mm inverted on custom trees.
Thanks for the compliments.
I think I made three or four sets of 'mock up' trees before getting the trail where I wanted it. Stock FXR trail on my FXR was measured at 4.25" in its stock form. As the bikes sit now, 17" wheels front and rear, 2002 FL swing arms, 15" rear shocks, 32" forks, etc, the trail is very close to 4", so it steers a little bit quicker than a stock FXR.
A couple members sent PMs asking to see pics of the third FXR, (the frame along the back wall).
Still collecting pieces. Will try and answer a few questions up front;
-FXDX fork, w/RaceTech springs and gold valves
-Harley/Brembo calipers
-Galfer wave rotors 2x front. 1x rear
-Fork Brake by Custom Cycle Engineering
-OEM frame w/clean title
-2002 swing arm with 2008 Brembo caliper, CCE spherical bearings and Glide Pro
-Harley cast wheels w/texture powder coat and WW ceramic bearings
-OEM mid controls
-OEM FXLR tank.
-Harley/Brembo brake & clutch master cylinders
-ProTaper handlebars with ⅞" ends
-Custom risers
-⅞" throttle sleeve FUW Harley switch housings (Speed Dealer)
-ProTaper grips
-Harley ¼ fairing w/Daymaker headlight
-OEM convertible saddle bags
-Pirrelli rubber
-Sport front fender by Deviant Fabrications
-Badlander seat
-Harley oem rear fender.
-Harley fender struts.
-Most hardware is, or will be, ARP 12pt stainless
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0566_zps2srvzxg0.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0555_zpsrao5cwxy.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0557_zpshvbg5wjx.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0561_zpsrsoiojtb.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0567_zpsuokmrvlv.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0568_zpsjfe0sy2o.jpg)
(http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/econnor2/media/XU7Q0558_zpsqo2nmfa9.jpg.)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/XU7Q0577_zpsph8dz2zi.jpg)
Looks like it's going to be another badass bike. What ya got planned for the turn signals?
Turboprop,
Your pm is full?
Quote from: HighLiner on January 24, 2016, 10:43:39 AM
Looks like it's going to be another badass bike. What ya got planned for the turn signals?
Not sure, I found them in the shed when I was looking for other stuff. Aside from my bagger, I don't think I have every had a bike with turn signals. Will probably wire them up as turn signals.
Quote from: Boost on January 27, 2016, 05:19:16 PM
Turboprop,
Your pm is full?
Unless its something really personal, I would rather keep everything in the open.
Yesterday I picked up the heads, cylinders, pistons, crankcase and flywheels from Zippers.
The heads have a 2.150" intake and a 1.680" exhaust and were setup to run the new RedShift 687 cam. The chamber, valve faces and exhaust ports have a thermal barrier treatment.
The pistons started out as a blank dome from Axtell. A brilliant engineer at Zippers named Adam H and a master machinist named Dave Z machined the valve pockets and the reverse dome. Compression is set at 12.0:1. The crowns have a thermal barrier treatment and the skirts have a different type of coating. I forget exactly what it is.
Plan is to run the RedShift 647 cams initially and then maybe transition to the RS687 cams.
Also shown is the S&S 3-Stage oil pump, forged cam plate, Baisley rockers, S&S spread pattern cases w/Evo style rear mount, Hoban Bros crankshaft built with S&S wheels and Carrillo rods, S&S premium lifters, Smith Bros push rods, Super D intake, Axtell barrels.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0235_zpsxuhnvcvv.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0236_zps1f91hmtf.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0237_zpsttujvvlw.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0234_zpsywm8tmcp.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0233_zpsgnfcrnbk.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0232_zpsb1jclirk.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0231_zpsyr3khxf0.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0230_zpslw9w3ciz.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0229_zpsszevkfkq.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0228_zpselqcn0g9.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/XU7Q0227_zpsezdjnpkf.jpg)
That is a table full of beauty....
BIKE PORN :smilep:
Looking good..
Your inbox is full
The head porter provide you with any flow numbers ?
Very nice Ed. :up:
:up: Nice!
excellent job Ed! :up:
now get that baby bolted together. :smilep:
Ray
I see those risers have the ears for gauges :up:, are they one off? Where can I get some. Thanks for posting pictures of the engine parts, very nice.
What's this bike getting for a carb? What is the diameter of the intake port at the manifold.. Looking good.. I think the idea of Teflon coating the back side of the intakes is a cool idea.. Keeps crud from building up on the back of the intake valve..
Those are Kid in a Candy Store pics... When I get so many neat things like that I tend to sit and stare at them for a long time... lol
Did you machine the counterbore in the rear head for a knock or head temp sensor?
I'm curious what the purpose of the coating on the intake valve is.
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
Quote from: Deye76 on February 17, 2016, 06:14:59 AM
I see those risers have the ears for gauges :up:, are they one off? Where can I get some.
Yeah, I am interested in info about those risers as well...
Quote from: Deye76 on February 17, 2016, 06:14:59 AM
I see those risers have the ears for gauges :up:, are they one off? Where can I get some. Thanks for posting pictures of the engine parts, very nice.
They look like Forbidden Motorcycles. these guys https://www.facebook.com/FORBIDDENMOTORCYCLES-120239614688322/?fref=ts (https://www.facebook.com/FORBIDDENMOTORCYCLES-120239614688322/?fref=ts)
Quote from: No Cents on February 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
I presume stem/guide lubrication. I was wondering what that would do in an EFI setup because of the atomization, whether it would have an effect there. Hmmmm... I wonder what it would do in a DI engine which are more likely to see really nasty build up on the stem due to the lack of fuel washing them down... Interesting technology no matter what.
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: No Cents on February 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
I presume stem/guide lubrication. I was wondering what that would do in an EFI setup because of the atomization, whether it would have an effect there. Hmmmm... I wonder what it would do in a DI engine which are more likely to see really nasty build up on the stem due to the lack of fuel washing them down... Interesting technology no matter what.
It's to keep crap off the intake valve.. Pull a motor apart and there in inevitably some crap on the intake valve.. Maybe a little from the guide some from reversion, fuel etc..
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 02:27:29 PM
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: No Cents on February 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
I presume stem/guide lubrication. I was wondering what that would do in an EFI setup because of the atomization, whether it would have an effect there. Hmmmm... I wonder what it would do in a DI engine which are more likely to see really nasty build up on the stem due to the lack of fuel washing them down... Interesting technology no matter what.
It's to keep crap off the intake valve.. Pull a motor apart and there in inevitably some crap on the intake valve.. Maybe a little from the guide some from reversion, fuel etc..
Sure I get that, even said the same thing. I can certainly see that as a huge benefit where no fuel washes the valve. But Ed is using a carb so that benefit is less of a factor until the guide is showing a lot of wear and the mung starts to build up.
The true test will be what the pretty red valves look like in 10-15k miles.
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 03:19:32 PM
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 02:27:29 PM
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: No Cents on February 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
I presume stem/guide lubrication. I was wondering what that would do in an EFI setup because of the atomization, whether it would have an effect there. Hmmmm... I wonder what it would do in a DI engine which are more likely to see really nasty build up on the stem due to the lack of fuel washing them down... Interesting technology no matter what.
It's to keep crap off the intake valve.. Pull a motor apart and there in inevitably some crap on the intake valve.. Maybe a little from the guide some from reversion, fuel etc..
Sure I get that, even said the same thing. I can certainly see that as a huge benefit where no fuel washes the valve. But Ed is using a carb so that benefit is less of a factor until the guide is showing a lot of wear and the mung starts to build up.
The true test will be what the pretty red valves look like in 10-15k miles.
I suspect that it's not stem to guide tho.. You'll always be sucking some oil past the guide, even new.. If you aren't, valve will stick in the guide.
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 03:25:08 PM
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 03:19:32 PM
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 02:27:29 PM
Quote from: rageglide on February 17, 2016, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: No Cents on February 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM
lubrication for the intake valve.
Ray
I presume stem/guide lubrication. I was wondering what that would do in an EFI setup because of the atomization, whether it would have an effect there. Hmmmm... I wonder what it would do in a DI engine which are more likely to see really nasty build up on the stem due to the lack of fuel washing them down... Interesting technology no matter what.
It's to keep crap off the intake valve.. Pull a motor apart and there in inevitably some crap on the intake valve.. Maybe a little from the guide some from reversion, fuel etc..
Sure I get that, even said the same thing. I can certainly see that as a huge benefit where no fuel washes the valve. But Ed is using a carb so that benefit is less of a factor until the guide is showing a lot of wear and the mung starts to build up.
The true test will be what the pretty red valves look like in 10-15k miles.
I suspect that it's not stem to guide tho.. You'll always be sucking some oil past the guide, even new.. If you aren't, valve will stick in the guide.
Max, you are correct, not stem to guide.
Quote from: 14Frisco on February 17, 2016, 11:52:39 AM
Quote from: Deye76 on February 17, 2016, 06:14:59 AM
I see those risers have the ears for gauges :up:, are they one off? Where can I get some.
Yeah, I am interested in info about those risers as well...
The risers and clamp are made by Jimmy at Forbidden Motorcycles.
http://www.forbiddenmotorcycles.biz/#!blank/cfvg (http://www.forbiddenmotorcycles.biz/#!blank/cfvg)
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 08:14:01 AM
1. What's this bike getting for a carb? 2. What is the diameter of the intake port at the manifold.. 3. Looking good.. 4. I think the idea of Teflon coating the back side of the intakes is a cool idea.. 5. Keeps crud from building up on the back of the intake valve..
1. Super G worked over by Steve Alsteadt.
2. 1.785"
3. Thank you.
4. So do some other people.
5. Yep.
Quote from: Max Headflow on February 17, 2016, 03:25:08 PM
I suspect that it's not stem to guide tho.. You'll always be sucking some oil past the guide, even new.. If you aren't, valve will stick in the guide.
I agree with that comment, no lube is bad.
My presumption/question that it might be stem/guide lube was based on Rays comment, I have no experience with the coating and was asking...
I have a question if you don't mind answering. How did you get to this level of building out your bikes? Meaning it's obvious you're not just bolting parts together off the shelf. .do you do this as a hobby? History in racing or are you just in a circle with guys that do this sort of work?
Asking as someone who's just getting going, only 30 myself and finishing up my first cases up build and genuinely interested how you got to where you are now. I have a day job like most on this site and a family and would love to some day have projects like yours but not sure that day will be any time soon.
By the way I think we're local if you can drive to Zippers it's about 40min up 295 for me.
Thanks,
Matt
Awesome looking stuff Ed, cant wait for more progress pics!
Quote from: mattVA on February 17, 2016, 06:26:54 PM
I have a question if you don't mind answering. How did you get to this level of building out your bikes? Meaning it's obvious you're not just bolting parts together off the shelf. .do you do this as a hobby? History in racing or are you just in a circle with guys that do this sort of work?
Asking as someone who's just getting going, only 30 myself and finishing up my first cases up build and genuinely interested how you got to where you are now. I have a day job like most on this site and a family and would love to some day have projects like yours but not sure that day will be any time soon.
By the way I think we're local if you can drive to Zippers it's about 40min up 295 for me.
Thanks,
Matt
Matt,
Thanks for the kind words. I recently turned fifty and have a much younger wife and a young daughter but have been at this for a day or two.
My story is long and twisted. I am a retired enlisted soldier. Spent twenty something years on jump status in either direct action or strategic reconnaissance units. I have always built my own bikes. Even built one in my 3rd floor barracks room once. My bikes, along with my tools and work space have steadily improved and expanded over time. As a private, I would hang out in indi bikes shops, doing whatever was needed, learning, sweeping up, but most importantly being able to buy stuff at dealer cost. I also hung out at the local race tracks swap meets.
If I had to pin down why my bikes are the way they are, I would attribute their development to the leaders I worked with throughout my time in uniform. Those guys were always pushing to; expand the envelope, think outside the box, solve problems, search out new technology and leverage it against what we were trying to accomplish. Networking with others and being able to garner support was a critical skill as was being able to differentiate signal from noise.
My red bike took me almost six years to build. Not because it was allot of work, it was allot of research, planning and saving for the next expensive piece or process. I prefer to set a goal and then move towards that goal. IMO, funding does not drive requirements, it only effects the rate of advancement towards meeting the goal.
The engine parts that I recently posted pics of; I bought that engine case over five years ago. Lots of thinking and saving since then, but still moving towards the sound of gunfire.
Keep at it. Learn to differentiate the signal from noise, especially on this site. Lots of noise. Upgrade and expand your tools as you are able to. Keep your family involved, give them a voice and some input. Network, talk direct with manufactures. Try to buy direct, even if it costs a little bit more. Build and develop relationships within the industry.
Best of luck to you.
Well said.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. I can relate to working in not so ideal conditions my first cam change was done in a parking garage, later did my friends bike in the parking lot of his condo. When I got the bug to do exhaust and mess with the fender I packed up some tools and did that work in my work's garage middle of winter I think it was below 30 degrees with snow on the ground.
It's a relief to hear you're not just running out and buying all these parts overnight. There's some big ticket items there you have more patience than me in collecting parts for a project. After I finish up my engine build I might have to shift to the long term planning. In the meantime I want to get my buddy's 1988 FXSTC down here to work/learn on.
Thanks for posting the pics I don't get to see this type of work often.
Matt
Quote from: turboprop on February 17, 2016, 07:37:42 PM
My story is long and twisted. I am a retired enlisted soldier. Spent twenty something years on jump status in either direct action or strategic reconnaissance units. I have always built my own bikes. Even built one in my 3rd floor barracks room once. My bikes, along with my tools and work space have steadily improved and expanded over time. As a private, I would hang out in indi bikes shops, doing whatever was needed, learning, sweeping up, but most importantly being able to buy stuff at dealer cost. I also hung out at the local race tracks swap meets.
If I had to pin down why my bikes are the way they are, I would attribute their development to the leaders I worked with throughout my time in uniform. Those guys were always pushing to; expand the envelope, think outside the box, solve problems, search out new technology and leverage it against what we were trying to accomplish. Networking with others and being able to garner support was a critical skill as was being able to differentiate signal from noise.
My red bike took me almost six years to build. Not because it was allot of work, it was allot of research, planning and saving for the next expensive piece or process. I prefer to set a goal and then move towards that goal. IMO, funding does not drive requirements, it only effects the rate of advancement towards meeting the goal.
The engine parts that I recently posted pics of; I bought that engine case over five years ago. Lots of thinking and saving since then, but still moving towards the sound of gunfire.
Keep at it. Learn to differentiate the signal from noise, especially on this site. Lots of noise. Upgrade and expand your tools as you are able to. Keep your family involved, give them a voice and some input input. Network, talk direct with manufactures. Try to buy direct, even if it costs a little bit more. Build and develop relationships within the industry.
First off, thank you for your service. Active duty myself. They say the camera adds 10 pounds, those picks of the heads, intake, cylinders, etc can't do them any justice. They look massive and sexy as hell! I lvoe wrenching and can only dream of the day that my second retirement finally lets me do just that. You are an inspiration and thank you for sharing your work with us. Truly amazing.
Ed...do you care to elaborate on what different types of coatings were used...and where?
My head chambers, valves, exhaust ports, and pistons were coated for me this time when the engine goes back together. This is the first time I will be using coatings like this in an assembly. Mine has different types of coatings applied to different parts. The piston itself will have three different types of coatings applied to them. The intake valves got a lubricant coating while the exhaust valves and port got a heat resistant type of coating.
I hope the use of these coatings cuts down on over all engine temperature.
Your parts look outstanding Ed! :up:
Ray
Quote from: No Cents on February 21, 2016, 04:04:50 AM
Ed...do you care to elaborate on what different types of coatings were used...and where?
My head chambers, valves, exhaust ports, and pistons were coated for me this time when the engine goes back together. This is the first time I will be using coatings like this in an assembly. Mine has different types of coatings applied to different parts. The piston itself will have three different types of coatings applied to them. The intake valves got a lubricant coating while the exhaust valves and port got a heat resistant type of coating.
I hope the use of these coatings cuts down on over all engine temperature.
Your parts look outstanding Ed! :up:
Ray
Thanks Ray. I think coatings will become more prevalent in the V-Twin arena in the future.
My parts were done by Poydyn through Zippers.
Ceramic on the piston crown, valve faces and exhaust ports. Dry Film Lubricant on the skirts and an oil-shedding coating on the underside of the piston.
In hind site, I would have liked to put the oil shedding coating on the inside of the engine cases, rocker boxes and a few other components. Not sure if it would have made a difference or not, cost is negligible, just curious.
http://www.polydyn.com/performance_coatings.htm (http://www.polydyn.com/performance_coatings.htm)
Ed, your post above on your background was one of the most articulate, honest and transparent posts I have ever read on any HD forum anywhere. Thank you very much for your life time of service to our country and for making this forum a better place. Your builds are awesome and I'm working on finishing one myself as money allows. Regards, -Tutt
Nice Bikes, The Form Follows Function approach is what has always caught my eye in any type of build.
Excellent response on your background, how you go about your builds and some life in general advice
Ed...I know many years ago when I worked at A. Hines Racing Engines (Arnold the owner) use to have me totally de-burr the inside of the race engine blocks so they were as smooth as a babies bottom. I asked him why go thru all this trouble and work for no reason and Arnold said it helped and maybe someday I would understand why it did. :nix: I personally don't know if it ever did help...but Arnold paid me to do what he told me to do, and for me just having the opportunity to be in that shop was an everyday education for me that I will never forget.
Ray
Would these oil pans be something you would be interested in?
Not for $2100.00
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 05, 2016, 05:19:00 PM
Would these oil pans be something you would be interested in?
Chip Kastelnick at San Diego Customs is my friend. I am very much aware of Chip's pan. You probably missed my posts on the FL oil pans that I modified. At the time, Chip's oil pan was still under development.
Additionally, my friend Joe Biesel (member of this forum and owner of Deviant Fabrications), is in the process of making a pan similar the ones I modified, but from injection molded high-temperature resin. I sent one of my pans to Joe to use as a template, since then Joe has made several improvements to the design.
Wow,, You have friends? :wink:
Quote from: Max Headflow on May 05, 2016, 10:29:35 PM
Wow,, You have friends? :wink:
Its a very select group. Not everyone makes the cut. http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/Smileys/classic/emsmilep.gif (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/Smileys/classic/emsmilep.gif)
Quote from: turboprop on May 05, 2016, 07:59:10 PM
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 05, 2016, 05:19:00 PM
Additionally, my friend Joe Biesel (member of this forum and owner of Deviant Fabrications), is in the process of making a pan similar the ones I modified, but from injection molded high-temperature resin. I sent one of my pans to Joe to use as a template, since then Joe has made several improvements to the design.
I am surprised that there are not more covers made for the twin cam out of plastic.. It would also reduce engine noise.. OEM car manufactures , figured that out long ago.. Sounds very cool . :up:
This is one of the prototypes I got from Ed (Turboprop) going on my Twincam FXR-
Beautiful design, engineering and fit and finish. A straight swap/bolt on with no cutting or modifying needed.
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1256_zpsi7zjyf3r.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1256_zpsi7zjyf3r.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1257_zpssywnfa4a.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1257_zpssywnfa4a.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0562_zpsupbrjvdg.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0562_zpsupbrjvdg.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0563_zpscokq2sgj.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0563_zpscokq2sgj.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0566_zps9rac7vh3.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_0566_zps9rac7vh3.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1254_zpsrrc7bh8u.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1254_zpsrrc7bh8u.jpg.html)
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o729/paulmorris8/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1255_zpsxmnjimqn.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/paulmorris8/media/TC%20FXR%20OIL%20PAN%20MOD/IMG_1255_zpsxmnjimqn.jpg.html)
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on May 06, 2016, 06:18:26 AM
Quote from: turboprop on May 05, 2016, 07:59:10 PM
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 05, 2016, 05:19:00 PM
Additionally, my friend Joe Biesel (member of this forum and owner of Deviant Fabrications), is in the process of making a pan similar the ones I modified, but from injection molded high-temperature resin. I sent one of my pans to Joe to use as a template, since then Joe has made several improvements to the design.
I am surprised that there are not more covers made for the twin cam out of plastic.. It would also reduce engine noise.. OEM car manufactures , figured that out long ago.. Sounds very cool . :up:
Can you imagine the uproar plastic engine covers would cause on CVO Forum?
Quote from: turboprop on May 05, 2016, 07:59:10 PM
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 05, 2016, 05:19:00 PM
Would these oil pans be something you would be interested in?
Chip Kastelnick at San Diego Customs is my friend. I am very much aware of Chip's pan. You probably missed my posts on the FL oil pans that I modified. At the time, Chip's oil pan was still under development.
Additionally, my friend Joe Biesel (member of this forum and owner of Deviant Fabrications), is in the process of making a pan similar the ones I modified, but from injection molded high-temperature resin. I sent one of my pans to Joe to use as a template, since then Joe has made several improvements to the design.
What is the reason for the dividers in the pan?
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 07, 2016, 08:02:10 AM
Quote from: turboprop on May 05, 2016, 07:59:10 PM
Quote from: gabbyduffy on May 05, 2016, 05:19:00 PM
Would these oil pans be something you would be interested in?
Chip Kastelnick at San Diego Customs is my friend. I am very much aware of Chip's pan. You probably missed my posts on the FL oil pans that I modified. At the time, Chip's oil pan was still under development.
Additionally, my friend Joe Biesel (member of this forum and owner of Deviant Fabrications), is in the process of making a pan similar the ones I modified, but from injection molded high-temperature resin. I sent one of my pans to Joe to use as a template, since then Joe has made several improvements to the design.
What is the reason for the dividers in the pan?
Control splash, eliminate dead spots where some oil doesn't circulate, cool the oil..
Progress.
The crank from Darkhorse Crankworks (S&S wheels and shafts, Carrillo rods) has un-measurable readout with my Feuling gauge.
On the advise of counsel, I installed the one-crank vent that came with the case. No issues fitting the new S&S 3-stage oil pump, forged cam plate and gear drive.
I planned to use ARP 12pt hardware on the plate and oil pump but the cuts in the plate do not have enough clearance for the flanges on the ARP 12pts.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0284_zpspbj0qicp.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0338_zpsvpxrkupw.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0340_zpsisxv2jr5.jpg)
roll the sides of the flanges of the ARP bolts on your bench grinder for the needed clearance...that's what I did.
Looks good Ed! :up:
Ray
Quote from: No Cents on August 11, 2016, 05:03:35 PM
roll the sides of the flanges of the ARP bolts on your bench grinder for the needed clearance...that's what I did.
Looks good Ed! :up:
Ray
Great idea. Thanks.
once I got them to fit properly...I then rolled the bare metal of the flange onto a black Sharpie permanent marker to make them all black again. The marker stuck and the bolts were still all black when I removed them the last time.
Ray
added later:
nice side arm...by the way. :wink:
Sweet!!
You are an artist. Good looking work.
Like I said elsewhere Ed, and I don't know how I missed it previously, but all of this on a granite counter top. That is just awesome!!!
:up: :up:
Chuck the ARP bolts into a drill press and lay a file to them then finish them with a stone or some emory cloth.
Beer makes a nice lube for the operator during this.
BTW you do some beautiful work. :up:
Mike
beautiful Ed I cant wait to see the finished product there is nothing like all that work coming together. :up:
Quote from: guydoc77 on August 11, 2016, 06:23:24 PM
Like I said elsewhere Ed, and I don't know how I missed it previously, but all of this on a granite counter top. That is just awesome!!!
Thank you for the kind words.
My garage is too unsanitary for engine building. As hard as I try to keep the garage clean, it does not come close the level of cleanliness needed to build an engine in. My wife knows and understands. Her and and my daughter are in Europe right now so the timing is perfect. As for the granite. Aside from our formal dining room, I am hard pressed to find a non granite vertical surface on the ground floor of our house.
My wife would have a coronary if she found out I was building in the kitchen. lol. I found 15min with a blower in the garage the day before the build and then pouring water on the floor the day of the build always has worked out good as well. A home made engine stand helps out too.
Taken a few years ago in our pool house.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/ltuntitledgt45_zpsbb81c170.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/ltuntitledgt38_zpsbab7b081.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Black/ltuntitledgt33_zps1376163c.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Red/Update1.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Red/Update2.jpg)
A repurposed space :up: and with a/c even.
A couple questions.
1) How do you list the completed bike off that stand.
2) What is the table is the last two pics. It almost looks like a fooseball table with a black top on it. It safely supports the weight of the bike?
That's a nice ride. What front end is that? My bike is in my living room and my last box got here yesterday. :smiled:
Quote from: Merc1100sc on August 12, 2016, 10:32:03 AM
A couple questions.
1) How do you list the completed bike off that stand.
2) What is the table is the last two pics. It almost looks like a fooseball table with a black top on it. It safely supports the weight of the bike?
1. A Couple friends and I lifted it.
2. It is a football table with a counter top sitting on top of it.
Quote from: Barrett on August 12, 2016, 10:45:54 AM
That's a nice ride. What front end is that? My bike is in my living room and my last box got here yesterday. :smiled:
Just ignore that front, pretend you never saw it. You will be better off for it. Was the most expensive way to save a few dollars. The legs are from a '07-08 GSXR-1000 that have been lengthened 3", custom trees, custom other stuff. Should not have been done. It works very well and I love it. Most people think they can just bolt-on an inverted fork from a sport bike. Some will even profess to have a friend that knows a guy that can machine the gixxer trees to work on a FXR. They can't. The offset between the stem and the tubes is all wrong for any Harley chassis. Lots of work to do this right.
I don't have any pics of it, but I built a Panhead chopper in the living room of a little apartment around 1970 & then after we bought a house I did a frame up build of a Shovel drag bike in the middle of our family room.
I have a very cool wife who has been with me for 40 years.
~John
QuoteJust ignore that front, pretend you never saw it. You will be better off for it. Was the most expensive way to save a few dollars. The legs are from a '07-08 GSXR-1000 that have been lengthened 3", custom trees, custom other stuff. Should not have been done. It works very well and I love it. Most people think they can just bolt-on an inverted fork from a sport bike. Some will even profess to have a friend that knows a guy that can machine the gixxer trees to work on a FXR. They can't. The offset between the stem and the tubes is all wrong for any Harley chassis. Lots of work to do this right.
Howard from Motorcycle Metal maybe? He's a pretty smart guy IMHO. -Tutt
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage17.html (http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage17.html)
Quote from: CowboyTutt on August 12, 2016, 03:22:15 PM
QuoteJust ignore that front, pretend you never saw it. You will be better off for it. Was the most expensive way to save a few dollars. The legs are from a '07-08 GSXR-1000 that have been lengthened 3", custom trees, custom other stuff. Should not have been done. It works very well and I love it. Most people think they can just bolt-on an inverted fork from a sport bike. Some will even profess to have a friend that knows a guy that can machine the gixxer trees to work on a FXR. They can't. The offset between the stem and the tubes is all wrong for any Harley chassis. Lots of work to do this right.
Howard from Motorcycle Metal maybe? He's a pretty smart guy IMHO. -Tutt
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage17.html (http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage17.html)
Howard is a smart guy, but no, he had nothing to do with the front ends that I built. I made the extensions and trees myself. Took a few sets of trees with different offsets to get the trail correct. The 17" wheel changed everything.
Turboprop, your inbox is full...
Try it now
I set the semi finished engine int he chassis to fish sorting out the 6AN hose ends and adapters. Not a lot of room to get the feed line around the right side mid-control. Also had to repurpose the oem vent hole in the trans case as it is now being used for the return line and the vent line is being run from a TC era oil spout.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0343_zpsgmapjkds.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0342_zpsvcpyad6z.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0344_zpszg32hs0o.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0345_zps7a7f0zij.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0346_zpskyg1ugbt.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0347_zpsdtwynxbd.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0348%201_zpsvknb7dnf.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0338_zpsvpxrkupw.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0339_zpscxsludtx.jpg)
Gawd, you got this down to a science. You give me a lot of inspiration on the FXRP I just got. Impeccable work. :up: Appreciate you posting progress and the knowledge you share , over on the Evo forum.
Quote from: Deye76 on August 13, 2016, 04:20:02 PM
Gawd, you got this down to a science. You give me a lot of inspiration on the FXRP I just got. Impeccable work. :up: Appreciate you posting progress and the knowledge you share , over on the Evo forum.
Agreed. Ed, this will no doubt be a cover girl. :up:
Yup, it is looking great and always great advice from you. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the kind words everyone. I thought I knew a thing or two about FXRs, but I really didn't. Kids in SoCal school me pretty regularly.
That looks great and I really like the attention to detail. I have one question though, on your threaded aluminum fittings is there any possibility of them cracking over time with the vibration? I work on airplanes for a living and use AN style fittings on a daily basis and in that application we would typically use steel AN elbows. Im not bashing your work by any means just curious as to how well they hold up in this application for future reference because the blue fittings look cool.
Quote from: planemech on August 14, 2016, 05:51:51 AM
That looks great and I really like the attention to detail. I have one question though, on your threaded aluminum fittings is there any possibility of them cracking over time with the vibration? I work on airplanes for a living and use AN style fittings on a daily basis and in that application we would typically use steel AN elbows. Im not bashing your work by any means just curious as to how well they hold up in this application for future reference because the blue fittings look cool.
Good point. As for the aluminum vs steel fittings, unlike an aviation application, these are all exposed and I tinker enough that any problems would be spotted pretty quick. My red FXR has had the same aluminum fittings on its external oil returns for years without issue. The blue and red fittings are just stuff I have in the garage that I use for mockup. I will probably order everything in black from Aeroquip.
Man this project is off the charts. Very inovative with impecable attention to detail. Nice work Ed, VERY NICE :up:
Quote from: Durwood on August 13, 2016, 05:20:32 PM
Agreed. Ed, this will no doubt be a cover girl. :up:
:agree: My thoughts exactly.
Quote from: turboprop on August 14, 2016, 07:19:51 AM
Quote from: planemech on August 14, 2016, 05:51:51 AM
That looks great and I really like the attention to detail. I have one question though, on your threaded aluminum fittings is there any possibility of them cracking over time with the vibration? I work on airplanes for a living and use AN style fittings on a daily basis and in that application we would typically use steel AN elbows. Im not bashing your work by any means just curious as to how well they hold up in this application for future reference because the blue fittings look cool.
Good point. As for the aluminum vs steel fittings, unlike an aviation application, these are all exposed and I tinker enough that any problems would be spotted pretty quick. My red FXR has had the same aluminum fittings on its external oil returns for years without issue. The blue and red fittings are just stuff I have in the garage that I use for mockup. I will probably order everything in black from Aeroquip.
Interesting as I really never looked into aluminum vs steel for my build but could their be issues mixing the both? I haven't heard of anything but also never looked into it.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b583/gordonr2/Mobile%20Uploads/F05A19F5-49F8-4355-B5BF-1233BDCE5DD9_zps1qqlk0f8.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/gordonr2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F05A19F5-49F8-4355-B5BF-1233BDCE5DD9_zps1qqlk0f8.jpg.html)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b583/gordonr2/Mobile%20Uploads/DE7D9292-4C24-473B-93BC-FB76F71802C0_zpsvazz1hxk.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/gordonr2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DE7D9292-4C24-473B-93BC-FB76F71802C0_zpsvazz1hxk.jpg.html)
I love seeing your progress. Craftsmanship is second to none.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
A little bit of progress tonight.
Even though it was designed for an Evo FXR, the Guppy III pipe fits perfectly around the TC. Have to make up new front and rear mounts and then send it off the Jett Hot in NC for black ceramic coating. Was hoping the can would not be directed at the canvas bag. Will have to design and fabricate a low-vis stainless heat shield.
PS - Please don't turn this into a discussion on ceramic coatings. I concede the stuff you use is better.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0358_zpsvpebu4rv.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0363_zpsfhajokgr.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0362_zpsgsb3vvpx.jpg)
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(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0365_zpsgd8uafwp.jpg)
Outstanding work. I also love the attention to detail. Enjoy seeing the process and progress :up:
Not sure if I have mentioned it here, but one of my self imposed constraints for this project has been to build it without using any funds from my paycheck. Every bit of this has been from hustling, selling stuff I don't need or want, donations from friends, friends hooking me up with dealer cost on stuff, etc. I just sold an old dual-disk narrow glide front end that will fund the three-phase charging system, throttle cables and hydraulic lines. Looking around to see what else I can part with.
That looks outstanding. Are those risers from Forbidden Industries? They look stout.
Zach
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Delkron primary cover? Don't think I've seen the oval before.
How thick are the coatings? Thick enough to affect compression ratio or cylinder bore clearance?
I like that pipe Ed! :up:
It looks like it won't be long now before the beast fires.
Ray
Quote from: biggzed on September 23, 2016, 10:37:59 PM
That looks outstanding. Are those risers from Forbidden Industries? They look stout.
Zach
Yes, the risers and top clamp are from Jimmy at Forbidden Industries.
Quote from: -deuced- on September 24, 2016, 01:00:33 AM
Delkron primary cover? Don't think I've seen the oval before.
How thick are the coatings? Thick enough to affect compression ratio or cylinder bore clearance?
the inner primary is from Delkron, the outer primary is a NOS harley unit. The coatings on the skirts designed to be worn away.
Quote from: turboprop on September 23, 2016, 07:47:48 PM
Not sure if I have mentioned it here, but one of my self imposed constraints for this project has been to build it without using any funds from my paycheck. Every bit of this has been from hustling, selling stuff I don't need or want, donations from friends, friends hooking me up with dealer cost on stuff, etc. I just sold an old dual-disk narrow glide front end that will fund the three-phase charging system, throttle cables and hydraulic lines. Looking around to see what else I can part with.
That's a pretty cool way to do it. I like it. :up:
I received a PM this evening in regards to my Guppy pipe. Not going to name the sender. Tried to reply but your inbox is full. Here is what I would have sent;
Thanks for the kind words. Brian is sort of a friend of mine. Have known him for a few years (Not as long as Paul has known him). I bought this pipe from Brian maybe eight years ago. It was way too big for the 106" engine I had then so I squirreled it away. Our inside joke is I built an engine around his pipe. There might be some truth to that. Brian doesn't build pipes any more, but does some really cool work on dirt bike engines. v/r -Ed
Quote from: turboprop on September 24, 2016, 06:08:34 AM
the inner primary is from Delkron, the outer primary is a NOS harley unit.
I've been using Delkron stuff for years, but never knew they made an inner primary.
I used Delkron cases for a maximum effort stroke shovel back in 1984 when the owner of Delkron at at time was a friend of mine.
~John
Never knew they made an inner for twin cam. Thanks and I love that Guppy 3 looks loud.
:baby:
Lots of mis information here. Just to get everyone on the same sheet.
1. The only difference between the FLT and the FXR inner primary is the hole for the shifter shaft tube (FXR version).
2. The '94 and up inner primary case (FXR and FLT) will bolt onto all five speed transmissions through '00, to include the TC models.
3. In '01 harley moved the location of the forward mounting bolt, thus preventing the '94-'00 inner primaries from bolting onto the later five-speed models.
4. The engine case shown in this build is an S&S TC case w/Evo style rear mount that was designed to bolt onto an Evo style transmission. But that is really besides the point. Comments 1-3 as shown above are still relevant.
As for the Guppy III pipe, it has a very advanced baffle that not only flows very well and all but eliminates most of the reversion waves, but is also fairly quite. But, I am am deaf in my right ear so my perception of noise is somewhat skewed.
Quote from: N-gin on September 26, 2016, 06:53:58 PM
Never knew they made an inner for twin cam. Thanks and I love that Guppy 3 looks loud.
:baby:
What are you talking about? An FXR inner primary bolts up to all five speed trans cases (Including the TC) up to year '00. In '01 Harley moved one of the mounting bolts on the trans case.
An update on my Smack-A-Hoe project bike. Progress continues to move along, albeit somewhat slow. This entire project has been funded by selling off old bike parts. Sort of neat to clear out some of the old stuff.
Getting pretty close to paint. Still collecting a few electrical components, but once electrical is done the body work will be off to paint. My target date to fire it up is April.
Recent work includes the FXDX forks being sent to GMD Atlanta to be worked over. New springs, Gold Valves, polishing and other magic that Kent uses. New brake lines and pads from Galfer. Other than the Harley/Brembo calipers and MCs, the entire braking system is from Galfer. Also replaced the Terry 1.8kw starter with a 1.4kww unit from Harley. The 1.8 was just too wide. While I tried spacing it out, the added width interfered with the exhaust pipe. All of the externally visible hardware has been replaced with ARP 12pt stainless. The 3-Phase charging system from Compu-Fire has been sourced and installed along with the Bandit clutch.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0016_zpscw5n5an0.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0017_zps5gndvwou.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/IMG_0366_zpsorar3wt3.jpg)
That bike is going to rock with that ball heater. The exhaust looks like it fits very well also. Does it use the bottom engine bracket for the front exhaust to bolt to?
Nice job, that bike is going to be a BLAST to ride.
Question: With that S&S air-cleaner setup, are you going to run the vent tubes externally?? I couldn't tell from the pics.
~John
Quote from: N-gin on January 08, 2017, 10:55:49 PM
That bike is going to rock with that ball heater. The exhaust looks like it fits very well also. Does it use the bottom engine bracket for the front exhaust to bolt to?
This Guppy was originally made to fit an Evo FXR. For this application the oil spout and starter were an issue and affected the exhaust fitment. What I wound up doing for the exhaust mount was a ¼" spacer between the oil spout and the trans case. The oil spout was machined around the lower two mounting holes to permit a bracket to be attached. That bracket aligns with a mounting tab on the can.
The front mounting plate that attaches to the underside of the cam cheats area had to be slightly tweaked in order to align with the mounting tab on the front head pipe.
Quote from: jmorton10 on January 09, 2017, 02:46:18 AM
Nice job, that bike is going to be a BLAST to ride.
Question: With that S&S air-cleaner setup, are you going to run the vent tubes externally?? I couldn't tell from the pics.
~John
I am not sure about that intake it looks cool, but not sure it it will flow enough. Will see. These heads are set up very differently from how S&S sent them. For venting purposes, each head has a ⅛" NPT hole sort of on the backside upper most point on each head. They are sort of aimed at where the top motor mount/coil is located. Those holes have fittings that connect to one-way valves and tee into a single line that goes up under the backbone of the frame and then down to a catch can on the front left down tube of the frame.
The traditional vent holes that come out of the heads to mount the A/C have been opened up to the larger Evo size, but are currently plugged. They may be used in the future.
That air cleaner bracket was designed to vent the heads into the intake tract and has since had all those passages blocked. Its only purpose now is to support the apparatus.
"Progress continues to move along, albeit somewhat slow. "
Quality takes time! :up: Lot of good stuff going on with this build.
Do you anticipate having to run a oil cooler? Can't tell from the photos if you have one.
Ed, what is the Galfer P/N of those Wave Rotors?
(http://i.imgur.com/JoP0O4G.png)
Quote from: Deye76 on January 09, 2017, 05:09:31 AM
"Progress continues to move along, albeit somewhat slow. "
Quality takes time! :up: Lot of good stuff going on with this build.
Do you anticipate having to run a oil cooler? Can't tell from the photos if you have one.
Not sure. Before installing one I want to see where things land with this. If I do run an oil cooler it will be one of those small radiator looking ones and will be mounted vertically off the left frame down tube.
Found it, DF835CW or at least it should be.
Quote from: FSG on January 09, 2017, 06:07:20 AM
Found it, DF835CW or at least it should be.
:up: ...list price on those rotors are a touch over $300.00 a piece. They also have a polished option that has the letter "P" and the end (CWP).
I never could find a rear rotor option for my bike from Galfer...but I'm betting they do have one. It's a shame they are not going to be at the Expo this year. I was really looking forward to stopping by their booth and talking to them.
added later:
the bike looks outstanding Ed! :up:
Did you decide on what color your going to have it painted yet?
Quote from: FSG on January 09, 2017, 05:43:44 AM
Ed, what is the Galfer P/N of those Wave Rotors?
(http://i.imgur.com/JoP0O4G.png)
Galfer part number DF835CW. They come out of the box without countersunk mounting holes. I had to machine these for the ARP bolts. Galfer was somewhat confused why I would put rotors from a bagger on a narrow glide fork.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/fullsizeoutput_30f_zpsqfty7ae4.jpeg)
The S&S twin AC unit has worked well on the FBW bikes. As for peak numbers tuned a 124 with it on along with the S&S 58 MM t/b made 140 ish last year. I did remove the air cleaner as i was seeing a drop in KPA in the 4500 RPM to 5500 range then it would go back up to 100 KPA. No change at all. SO what ever was creating that was not lack of air flow through filters. Been a long time since I bolted one on on a carb bike so off hand do not recall if there is a huge change in design that could alter flow.
Its looking great :up:
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on January 09, 2017, 07:01:20 AM
The S&S twin AC unit has worked well on the FBW bikes. As for peak numbers tuned a 124 with it on along with the S&S 58 MM t/b made 140 ish last year. I did remove the air cleaner as i was seeing a drop in KPA in the 4500 RPM to 5500 range then it would go back up to 100 KPA. No change at all. SO what ever was creating that was not lack of air flow through filters. Been a long time since I bolted one on on a carb bike so off hand do not recall if there is a huge change in design that could alter flow.
Its looking great :up:
Thanks. I did a bunch of stuff on this project just to try it. The carb on this is a Zippers modified G3, but I plan to eventually add fuel injection of some sort. Progress has been slow as I tend to tinker, have three other bikes, and am funding this project with selling off old bike stuff. Sort of a pay as I go. Currently bogged down with buyers that are obligated but need additional time after the holidays to pay. I figure a few more weeks and I will be back to buying parts. Current obstacle is where to hide the TSM module and to decide on a horizontal or vertical unit. Not a lot of room under those side covers. Thinking of mounting in some sort of box where the oem oil tank was just to hide a few things.
Ed thanks :up:
QuoteI never could find a rear rotor option for my bike from Galfer
Ray the Rear to match the DF835CW Front is DF83
6CW
Will add that dealing with Galfer is challenging. They sent the wrong disks several times across the country only to have them be something totally wrong. One time they sent rotors for sport bike that had a huge center hole. Not even close. In the end, I had to have a friend in Ventura go over to Galfer and put eyes on the disks. Part of the problem is they have multiple parts that use the same part number. Crazy. Also had issues with the 3AN lines they made me.
Quote from: FSG on January 09, 2017, 07:47:35 AM
Ed thanks :up:
QuoteI never could find a rear rotor option for my bike from Galfer
Ray the Rear to match the DF835CW Front is DF836CW
thanks for the part# Gary! :up:
I might look harder at the Galfer rotors later on down the road when it comes time to replace my currents ones.
Right now what I'm currently running seems to be working very well. I've got Lyndall rotors on the front and an EBC floating rotor on the back. They have a few seasons on them and they look to be holding up well.
Galfer rotors have been highly recommended for me to try from a few different guys.
Quote from: turboprop on January 09, 2017, 04:20:01 AM
That air cleaner bracket was designed to vent the heads into the intake tract and has since had all those passages blocked. Its only purpose now is to support the apparatus.
I have the same setup on my 58mm TB with all those passages blocked also. I have 2 lines running to 2 catch cans (1 on each side) but I don't see many of those setups so I always like to see how other people have it set up.
~John
Ok, I'll bite. What's with the top faster on the fork leg? What is that for? I've never seen it (never worked on or around any FXR's either, so forgive me if it's a stupid question).
Zach
Quote from: turboprop on January 09, 2017, 07:00:49 AM
Galfer part number DF835CW. They come out of the box without countersunk mounting holes. I had to machine these for the ARP bolts. Galfer was somewhat confused why I would put rotors from a bagger on a narrow glide fork.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/fullsizeoutput_30f_zpsqfty7ae4.jpeg)
that'll be the fork leg drain
Quote from: biggzed on January 11, 2017, 12:13:36 PM
:doh:
Zach
Quote from: FSG on January 11, 2017, 12:01:29 PM
that'll be the fork leg drain
I didn't even notice it at first. Now I want one. Well, four actually.
Look,s like a damper adjuster.
Quote from: bootit on January 11, 2017, 02:09:43 PM
Look,s like a damper adjuster.
That's what I thought
Quote from: biggzed on January 11, 2017, 11:30:37 AM
Ok, I'll bite. What's with the top faster on the fork leg? What is that for? I've never seen it (never worked on or around any FXR's either, so forgive me if it's a stupid question).
Zach
Quote from: turboprop on January 09, 2017, 07:00:49 AM
Galfer part number DF835CW. They come out of the box without countersunk mounting holes. I had to machine these for the ARP bolts. Galfer was somewhat confused why I would put rotors from a bagger on a narrow glide fork.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/fullsizeoutput_30f_zpsqfty7ae4.jpeg)
Good question. This is a cartridge fork from a late model FXDX. The top 'thing' in the picture is a rebound adjuster. There is one in each leg. At the top of the fork are external preload and compression adjusters Internally, the springs and valves have been replaced with RaceTech stuff..
I stand corrected, it could easily pass as the drain for my air compressor.
I realize this bike is still on the lift. but how do you change the oil in these forks?
A full disassemble or maybe pull each leg, remove the top cap, upend the leg and then pump it out and then somehow do the reverse to have the leg suck new oil in?
(http://i.imgur.com/fvEgQ7h.png)
Quote from: FSG on January 11, 2017, 02:42:30 PM
I stand corrected, it could easily pass as the drain for my air compressor.
I realize this bike is still on the lift. but how do you change the oil in these forks?
A full disassemble or maybe pull each leg, remove the top cap, upend the leg and then pump it out and then somehow do the reverse to have the leg suck new oil in?
(http://i.imgur.com/fvEgQ7h.png)
Another good question. Some of the fluid can be drained through the bolt in the bottom, but not all of it. To do it properly, the top cap has to come off and the guts removed. To put fluid in, its donate same way as its done on inverted forks, with the top cap off and measured from the top of the tube.
Will add that these forks came off a '02 FXDX within a year to of it rolling off the dealership floor and then sat in a loft until last year when a friend ave them to me. At the time they looked brand new and I was going to run them as they were. When the project began to take on a blackened out look, I pulled the fork legs off to have them powder coated. What I saw inside the legs was horrible. Both of the forks had a good inch or more of 'Muck' in them. Another oddity was the fluid in one leg was sort of a clear pink, while the other leg was black. Both had the same amount of muck in them.
Quote from: turboprop on January 11, 2017, 02:16:14 PM
Quote from: biggzed on January 11, 2017, 11:30:37 AM
Ok, I'll bite. What's with the top faster on the fork leg? What is that for? I've never seen it (never worked on or around any FXR's either, so forgive me if it's a stupid question).
Zach
Quote from: turboprop on January 09, 2017, 07:00:49 AM
Galfer part number DF835CW. They come out of the box without countersunk mounting holes. I had to machine these for the ARP bolts. Galfer was somewhat confused why I would put rotors from a bagger on a narrow glide fork.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/fullsizeoutput_30f_zpsqfty7ae4.jpeg)
Good question. This is a cartridge fork from a late model FXDX. The top 'thing' in the picture is a rebound adjuster. There is one in each leg. At the top of the fork are external preload and compression adjusters Internally, the springs and valves have been replaced with RaceTech stuff..
Whew. I'm a novice, but that had me feeling stupid. Thanks for the detailed response. This bike is going to be a blast to watch come together.
Zach
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
its getting pretty close. Bunch of electrical stuff still needs to be done. And the whole 'Pay as I go' thing has really put a dampener on the rate of advance. Waiting on friends to pay for parts they bought off me has been trying.
Another good question. Some of the fluid can be drained through the bolt in the bottom, but not all of it. To do it properly, the top cap has to come off and the guts removed. To put fluid in, its donate same way as its done on inverted forks, with the top cap off and measured from the top of the tube.
Will add that these forks came off a '02 FXDX within a year to of it rolling off the dealership floor and then sat in a loft until last year when a friend ave them to me. At the time they looked brand new and I was going to run them as they were. When the project began to take on a blackened out look, I pulled the fork legs off to have them powder coated. What I saw inside the legs was horrible. Both of the forks had a good inch or more of 'Muck' in them. Another oddity was the fluid in one leg was sort of a clear pink, while the other leg was black. Both had the same amount of muck in them.
[/quote]
I find that interesting about the fluid colour in your forks. Last weekend I dis-assembled the front forks on my 13 Road King which I purchased almost new with 6000 kms on it a few years back. It now has 25000 kms. Anyway, I took the forks apart in order to install Progressive Monotubes and found one fork contained nasty looking blackish fluid. The other fork was found to contain nice clean looking red fluid when I took it apart. I just assumed that maybe one fork had been serviced by the dealer or had fluid replaced due to a leak or something before I purchased it. Cant imagine they would come from the factory with different oil in each leg but it is a Harley so who knows....
Quote from: flh canuck on January 11, 2017, 06:34:46 PM
Another good question. Some of the fluid can be drained through the bolt in the bottom, but not all of it. To do it properly, the top cap has to come off and the guts removed. To put fluid in, its donate same way as its done on inverted forks, with the top cap off and measured from the top of the tube.
Will add that these forks came off a '02 FXDX within a year to of it rolling off the dealership floor and then sat in a loft until last year when a friend ave them to me. At the time they looked brand new and I was going to run them as they were. When the project began to take on a blackened out look, I pulled the fork legs off to have them powder coated. What I saw inside the legs was horrible. Both of the forks had a good inch or more of 'Muck' in them. Another oddity was the fluid in one leg was sort of a clear pink, while the other leg was black. Both had the same amount of muck in them.
[/i]
I find that interesting about the fluid colour in your forks. Last weekend I dis-assembled the front forks on my 13 Road King which I purchased almost new with 6000 kms on it a few years back. It now has 25000 kms. Anyway, I took the forks apart in order to install Progressive Monotubes and found one fork contained nasty looking blackish fluid. The other fork was found to contain nice clean looking red fluid when I took it apart. I just assumed that maybe one fork had been serviced by the dealer or had fluid replaced due to a leak or something before I purchased it. Cant imagine they would come from the factory with different oil in each leg but it is a Harley so who knows....
[/quote]
I am somewhat fanatical about the suspension only bikes and usually service/rebuild the forks on my FXRs (x3) every year. Next year all three sets of RaceTech shocks are going back to them for service My bikes typically don't go long enough between servicing to get that way. The black fork oil has me stumped. The amount of muck or sludge that was in both forks was mind blowing. The forks on my '05 bagger have never been tinkered with. This has sort of got me curious to pull them off to have a look.
Ed, I'm curious what you and your suspension guy (Kent) decided to use as far as parts/settings. I've got a 2005 FXDX that I refuse to ride till I get the suspension redone.
- Fork spring brand and rate?
- Did you do RT Gold Valves for compression only or a second set of Gold Valves for rebound also, (these aren't listed on the RT website).
- Gold Valve compression shim stack number? Will be between cH30 - cH39...RT told me to use 38...or 37.
- Gold Valve rebound shim stack number? I haven't bought these yet but will be soon.
- Oil brand/weight and level? RT calls for 5wt @ 140mm. Thinking I'll use Red Line LightWeight 5wt. somewhere between the factory 128mm and RT 140mm levels.
Kinda wish I had bought the Ohlins 20mm Showa SS valve kit that has both compression and rebound valves. Don't think it matters so much as to Ohlins or RT but getting the stack right on whichever is used.
Thanks, Rick
I feel your pain Ed, this is what I found recently in a 39mm assembly that had been neglected. Race tech springs, gold emulators going in.
Quote from: Deye76 on January 12, 2017, 06:06:16 AM
I feel your pain Ed, this is what I found recently in a 39mm assembly that had been neglected. Race tech springs, gold emulators going in.
That looks a lot like moisture contamination. Hot days and cold damp nights? Each night the cool down pulling in some damp air?
Never seen forks that ugly inside. Ed you said you kept them in a loft for years is it possible moisture got in over time?
Enjoying pics of the build. After owning two Dyna's I don't think I'll be switching.
Quote from: mattVA on January 12, 2017, 10:45:38 AM
Never seen forks that ugly inside. Ed you said you kept them in a loft for years is it possible moisture got in over time?
Enjoying pics of the build. After owning two Dyna's I don't think I'll be switching.
I didnt keep them in a loft. They were in a loft at Axtell as they came off of Ron's land speed bike when the Buell fork was installed. That being said, I am certain moisture got into them. How, I don't know. Everything on these forks is sealed with either an o-ring or a copper crush washer. While taking them apart, all of the seals appeared to be intact. But, the results speak for themselves. The funny thing is, had I not powder coated these forks and just ran them, I wouldn't have found the muck for a another year or two.
The paint. Shelby dark blue pearl with GM arctic white stripes.
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/18157437_1451236238231609_610883591792206868_n_zpsvdueyzal.jpg)
(http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h392/econnor2/Smack-A-Hoe/18157705_1451271254894774_6615948377628431383_n_zpsl2fyc97p.jpg)
:up: Very nice.
Perfect paint combo for that bike. :up:
Excellent choice.
Zach
It's a good look, but as fast as it will be, all most folks will see is a blur!
that's an excellent choice in colors! :up:
It's looks great!
Quote from: No Cents on May 01, 2017, 04:57:28 PM
that's an excellent choice in colors! :up:
It's looks great!
:up:
Ford blue: NO BAIL OUT needed!!!
Just saw some preliminary early tuning numbers from this 124" Bad Boy...
Oh, "Potty mouth", it's wicked.
Stay tuned-
Yep.
Runs very well. :up:
Update; Clutch basket broke into two pieces yesterday. Was going about 90 through a slight curve when the rear wheel locked. Good times. The primary chain broke in two places, broke the inner primary case which dumped oil on the back tire, basket broke apart.
Calling Bandit Machine today to get one of their steel Super Clutch baskets. I have a couple Delkron inner primary cases tucked away for such an emergency and a new Diamond primary chain on the shelf. Front compensator is probably going to get replaced with a solid unit from Vulcan. Will also replace the center hub on the Sportsman clutch.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/25506945797_5c740a7640_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4697/25506945637_deaa20fb72_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/26507791888_42e0d09a2d_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4751/26507791788_dc2fb340bb_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/25506945247_9961dafe22_b.jpg)
Well, I'm glad your here able to write about that Ed, that could have been a serious disaster for you personally. It stinks about the bike, but as you have a plan to make it stronger already, it'll be fine and come back better than it was.
Did the rear wheel stay locked, or break free after the initial explosion subsided?
I bet that was an o "Potty mouth" moment. Glad you kept it upright
Wow, that's one hell of a failure. Parts can be replaced, people...not so much.
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 20, 2018, 05:04:32 AM
Well, I'm glad your here able to write about that Ed, that could have been a serious disaster for you personally. It stinks about the bike, but as you have a plan to make it stronger already, it'll be fine and come back better than it was.
Did the rear wheel stay locked, or break free after the initial explosion subsided?
I rode it out for awhile, the skid mark was a good 200' and swerved across the road a few times. At some point the rear wheel did break free. Was on a back country road when it happened. Good thing there was no oncoming traffic as the event ended on the side of the other lane. Crazy.
WOW- Your guardian angel is prolly drinking heavily today ;).
Did any of the chunks nick your stator? Hate for you to get it all back together, only to find out the charging system is shorted.
Glad you are OK!
Quote from: rigidthumper on February 20, 2018, 05:20:21 AM
WOW- Your guardian angel is prolly drinking heavily today ;).
Did any of the chunks nick your stator? Hate for you to get it all back together, only to find out the charging system is shorted.
Glad you are OK!
Good question. Have not pulled it down that far, but should probably remove the stator, wash it out and take some measurements just to make sure its alright. Damm it. Possibly one more expensive piece to pile.
that had to be one hell of a scary ride.
Ed...I'm glad your okay!
Quote from: turboprop on February 20, 2018, 05:13:03 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 20, 2018, 05:04:32 AM
Well, I'm glad your here able to write about that Ed, that could have been a serious disaster for you personally. It stinks about the bike, but as you have a plan to make it stronger already, it'll be fine and come back better than it was.
Did the rear wheel stay locked, or break free after the initial explosion subsided?
I rode it out for awhile, the skid mark was a good 200' and swerved across the road a few times. At some point the rear wheel did break free. Was on a back country road when it happened. Good thing there was no oncoming traffic as the event ended on the side of the other lane. Crazy.
I hear you on the on coming, I went down once, too hot into a right hand, was gravel all over, crossed the on coming and went off into the ditch. I bet when you finally stopped, it was a feeling like, did that really just happen.
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 20, 2018, 05:32:26 AM
Quote from: turboprop on February 20, 2018, 05:13:03 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 20, 2018, 05:04:32 AM
Well, I'm glad your here able to write about that Ed, that could have been a serious disaster for you personally. It stinks about the bike, but as you have a plan to make it stronger already, it'll be fine and come back better than it was.
Did the rear wheel stay locked, or break free after the initial explosion subsided?
I rode it out for awhile, the skid mark was a good 200' and swerved across the road a few times. At some point the rear wheel did break free. Was on a back country road when it happened. Good thing there was no oncoming traffic as the event ended on the side of the other lane. Crazy.
I hear you on the on coming, I went down once, too hot into a right hand, was gravel all over, crossed the on coming and went off into the ditch. I bet when you finally stopped, it was a feeling like, did that really just happen.
I was more pissed than anything. Was on the way to meet some friends to tear up the countryside. Instead it turned into a save the whale type of day. Was an hour away from them, and two hours away from home, literally in the middle of nowhere, but right in front of a large farm house in which the occupants all came outside carry long guns. You know, just because.
Riding it out didnt seem like a big deal at the time. The oil doused the rear wheel pretty good and it just slid. Surprised the police didnt come to investigate and give me a ticket for spilling oil all over the road.
Looking forward to the new steel basket from Bandit as well as the solid front sprocket and the rear tire needed replaced anyways. The real downer in all of this is the FXR inner primary case. Like ocean front property, they aren't making any more. Its about time for Billy at STD to cowboy up.
No chance that it could be repaired? Maybe not the prettiest, but if it's functional...
I sheared the shaft off the trans on my old 124.. But did it on the leave .. and it did not do much other ,..than a mess on the ground but lucky I was not moving.. Sounds like you had one hell of a ride .. Glad to hear your ok no damage to engine case ??
Geez that sounds like most riders' nightmare. Glad you came out ok.
Quote from: Nastytls on February 20, 2018, 05:55:55 AM
No chance that it could be repaired? Maybe not the prettiest, but if it's functional...
Maybe. Not by me and wouldn't feel comfortable asking anyone that could. Its a $300 part. Juice isn't worth the squeeze.
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on February 20, 2018, 05:57:54 AM
I sheared the shaft off the trans on my old 124.. But did it on the leave .. and it did not do much other ,..than a mess on the ground but lucky I was not moving.. Sounds like you had one hell of a ride .. Glad to hear your ok no damage to engine case ??
Engine case and crankshaft look perfect, but have not put a dial indicator on the crank yet.
Quote from: Hossamania on February 20, 2018, 06:14:12 AM
Geez that sounds like most riders' nightmare. Glad you came out ok.
Thanks.
As others have said... really glad you came out of that! :smiled: :up:
Must have made a nice racket when it all came apart. The rest of the bike faired pretty well, by the look of it.
Cheers, Jeff
You were definitely, not " flying alone " that day. :up: :up:
Yikes!!
I dont know how common an outer basket breaking is? Do u think it was a poor cast or just a matter of hp?
Good job keeping it up.
Quote from: choseneasy on February 20, 2018, 08:29:35 AM
Yikes!!
I dont know how common an outer basket breaking is? Do u think it was a poor cast or just a matter of hp?
Good job keeping it up.
I think it was a combination of power (153 HP SAE) and maniac behind the bars. I beat this bike pretty hard, hence the twin 320mm BrakeTech rotors and killer suspension. I have already put two mainsheets into the transmission. It was just a matter of time.
Update; I just spoke with John at Bandit Machine, a new SuperClutch will only set me back $1,500.00. Nothing from my existing Bandit Sportsman clutch will transfer over. Dam.
Anyone want to buy a slightly used Sportsman clutch '98 and up BT, was only used on Sundays by a little old lady to go to church?
Reminds me of a time back in the early 90's where a mechanic at a harley shop was showing me a Bandit ( if I remember correctly) clutch he was putting in his bike. He made me laugh when he said the chances of breaking this clutch are like the chances of catching flesh eating disease.( there was a big scare about it at that time in the news constantly)
First one I heard of since blowing up, lol.
I had no doubt there was abuse involved, always glad to see someone that ain't scared to beat them up.
I'll pass on the used clutch, lol
The little Sportsman clutch had up just fine. It was the Harley OEM cast basket that let go.
If not to pound on, what is point of having one of these?
I lost the basket on my Ninja at the track. Hot oil on the leg and cases gone with it. It didn't lockup and I just hit second gear so I wasn't going too fast yet.
I wondered how well the Harley basket would hold up to power.
I guess I'll have one more item to add to my parts list..
I just contacted John this morning about their steel basket. He said it's not available yet :emsad:
Quote from: Tireman on February 20, 2018, 11:20:37 AM
I just contacted John this morning about their steel basket. He said it's not available yet :emsad:
Not sure what your application is, but mine is '94-06 big twin. The SuperClutch for this is readily available.
glad you kept the dirty side down.......
Banding an aluminum clutch basket is easy and adds durability. Not sure it would have been enough on this app. Banded basket might have prevented pieces from getting in position to lock up and break things.
Glad the "Hoe" didn't smack ya Ed.
Quote from: turboprop on February 20, 2018, 11:59:18 AM
Quote from: Tireman on February 20, 2018, 11:20:37 AM
I just contacted John this morning about their steel basket. He said it's not available yet :emsad:
Not sure what your application is, but mine is '94-06 big twin. The SuperClutch for this is readily available.
Sorry about that. 09 big twin... I thought....it's finally available when you mentioned getting the steel basket because I have been waiting for this to get released.
I went through the same last year, broke the chain and it chewed up my Evo industries basket. I tried that diamond chain, lasted 3 weekends at track before it would stand up in a figure 8 by itself, stretched so bad. I went back with an HD, they are a Regina chain. I saw where RK has one now, may try it, the Diamond won't get another try from me. :up: on ditching the comp
We used to buy Tsubaki primary chains in my 98" Evo days. I haven't seen them around in a lot of years. They were strong chains.
Glad to hear you kept the rubber side down.
Beast for sure.
Well at least you didn't scratch the paint.
Live to play another day :up:
Mike
Sorry to hear about the bike, but glad your safe.
Quote from: 04 SE DEUCE on February 20, 2018, 01:20:20 PM
Banding an aluminum clutch basket is easy and adds durability. Not sure it would have been enough on this app. Banded basket might have prevented pieces from getting in position to lock up and break things.
Glad the "Hoe" didn't smack ya Ed.
Who is banding the baskets?
Are you running one, have any pics?
Quote from: mrmike on February 20, 2018, 08:50:28 PM
Well at least you didn't scratch the paint.
Live to play another day :up:
Mike
That was really my only thought as i was sliding the bike down the street. The mechanical stuff is easy to fix.
Quote from: Jonny Cash on February 20, 2018, 04:45:10 PM
"the Diamond won't get another try from me."
Agree, you couldn't give me one.
Quote from: Deye76 on February 21, 2018, 05:21:55 AM
Quote from: Jonny Cash on February 20, 2018, 04:45:10 PM
"the Diamond won't get another try from me."
Agree, you couldn't give me one.
And I just installed one! I'll be taking it back out now. Thanks for the heads up.
I always wondered about those baskets, people say they don't need to be changed but your TQ HP is a different story, glad you are alright.
Post Deleted.
The new Evolution Industries billet basket arrive yesterday from Barnett. Good looking piece. It makes the OEM '98-'06 cast basket look like a POS sitting next to it. Still waiting on a few more pieces. Looks like the transmission main shaft is bent and will have to be replaced as well. Going to take this opportunity to replace all the bearings in the transmission with ceramics from MicroBlue Racing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4755/39563742045_b9db7dbfb4_k.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/39749216224_c5e64b1f3c_o.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4709/39563810215_66f4b0cd6a_o.jpg)
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
:up: on the Evo Ind. basket.
Mine has held up nicely to the abuse I dish out to it.
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
Quote from: No Cents on February 25, 2018, 02:03:07 PM
:up: on the Evo Ind. basket.
Mine has held up nicely to the abuse I dish out to it.
I think it will be alright, but will eventually replace it with a SuperClutch and shift this one over to one of my less radical FXRs.
Quote from: turboprop on February 25, 2018, 02:33:24 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
Ed, I have a ratcheting wrench for the fine spline TC crank. I suspect you have the early motor with the course though? If you can use the fine spline it'll be on the way tomorrow.
I hope that crank is ok, bad enough the transmission. What makes me worry now, is the 49 tooth Evo basket I have came with a longer
Diamond primary chain.
[attach=0]
I just looked at your pics above, it is the course spline crank. Oh well, I don't have one of those.
This is a Diamond chain after just 11 passes and a couple hundred street miles. Drag rep actually replaced, just can't bring myself to use one again. I broke the stock chain last year, had about the same carnage as turboprop, except the chain took out my Evo basket. I just bought the Superclutch with MTC and its a steel basket.
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 02:48:10 PM
Quote from: turboprop on February 25, 2018, 02:33:24 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
Ed, I have a ratcheting wrench for the fine spline TC crank. I suspect you have the early motor with the course though? If you can use the fine spline it'll be on the way tomorrow.
I hope that crank is ok, bad enough the transmission. What makes me worry now, is the 49 tooth Evo basket I have came with a longer Diamond primary chain.
[attach=0]
Thanks for the offer. I do have the early, course splined crank and the tool is already shipped. The suspension is killing me.
I hope that crank is ok, bad enough the transmission. What makes me worry now, is the 49 tooth Evo basket I have came with a longer Diamond primary chain.
My 49 Evo Ind. basket came with a Regina D8R/CHR Italian made chain. I bought mine about 2 years ago if that matters.
so what will be the go to chain for you?
That basket looks great!
Quote from: Jonny Cash on February 25, 2018, 03:04:41 PM
This is a Diamond chain after just 11 passes and a couple hundred street miles. Drag rep actually replaced, just can't bring myself to use one again. I broke the stock chain last year, had about the same carnage as turboprop, except the chain took out my Evo basket. I just bought the Superclutch with MTC and its a steel basket.
Diamond=junk. Drag rep can have it for his 80 HP bagger, he shouldn't be able to pay you to run that in your bike.
Welcome to the big boy sandbox...nice Straight Cash :up:
As far as busted parts......it comes with the territory, but pay now or pay later.
Build it right the first time, don't cut corners "cause you think it should be OK", cause it ain't OK. It's a bomb waiting to go off, just don't know when or where.
Build inside out, based on HP, TQ and expected use with NO compromises.....
Some guys cut corners on insurance too...."life insurance, flood, earthquake, extra coverage and less of a deductible on the house for coverage? Nah....I don't need that!"
"I heard it should be OK as is!"
No, you don't NEED it, not until the "Potty mouth" hits the fan. Feel lucky?
PW, what are you seeing as top strength primary chain?
Quote from: pwmorris on February 27, 2018, 05:36:40 PM
Quote from: Jonny Cash on February 25, 2018, 03:04:41 PM
This is a Diamond chain after just 11 passes and a couple hundred street miles. Drag rep actually replaced, just can't bring myself to use one again. I broke the stock chain last year, had about the same carnage as turboprop, except the chain took out my Evo basket. I just bought the Superclutch with MTC and its a steel basket.
Diamond=junk. Drag rep can have it for his 80 HP bagger, he shouldn't be able to pay you to run that in your bike.
Welcome to the big boy sandbox...nice Straight Cash :up:
As far as busted parts......it comes with the territory, but pay now or pay later.
Build it right the first time, don't cut corners "cause you think it should be OK", cause it ain't OK. It's a bomb waiting to go off, just don't know when or where.
Build inside out, based on HP, TQ and expected use with NO compromises.....
Some guys cut corners on insurance too...."life insurance, flood, earthquake, extra coverage and less of a deductible on the house for coverage? Nah....I don't need that!"
"I heard it should be OK as is!"
No, you don't NEED it, not until the "Potty mouth" hits the fan. Feel lucky?
Like no "Potty mouth". I certainly didn't feel lucky last weekend as I was sliding my bike down NC55 at 90 mph with a locked up rear wheel. I thought the primary drive was good.
On the bench for this weekend is yet another Andrews transmission main shaft (2nd shaft within eight months), bearings for the Bissano door, 5th gear main bearing, internal 5th gear bearings, new Evolution billet basket, Delkron inner primary case, Twin Power fixed compensator sprocket, Bandit adjuster shoe, and a new primary chain from Harley.
Hopefully this stuff will hold up for a year without breaking.
If anyone has any solid, first hand information on which primary chain is strongest, I would like to hear from you.
So far I'm seeing Diamond is Junk..
:pop:
I have had the good luck with the Tsubaki chains myself . Regina is OEM ..
Tsubaki told me yesterday they are no longer selling any motorcycle products.
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=102936.msg1215147#msg1215147 (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=102936.msg1215147#msg1215147)
Ok but there is still stock for sale .. RK makes a 92 tooth chain never used it .. Funny how you can find out info on a drive chain but when it comes to the primary much harder to find out anything
Just to be clear, Tuboprop's stuff is badass Gucci level improvements for HD FXR's
Front, back and everything between is upgraded on the FXR Harley platform by him. He is one of the actual guys who BUILDS quality stuff-not buying it from a catalog, or copying it from someone else. Hat's off to him-
My point was directed to the usual suspects, as far too many focus all day on the HP a bike makes, but forget that everytime you upgrade the motor.....the chassis, clutch, tire, driveline, etc, all need to go with it. Those who don't do ALL the upgrades will find out the hard way. See it all the time.
As far as primary chains-
I run RK front to back, no shortcuts.
FRONT-
https://www.denniskirk.com/rk/primary-chain-428-2-76.p020422.prd/020422.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/rk/primary-chain-428-2-76.p020422.prd/020422.sku)
BACK-
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/166-6768/RK Chains Pro Drag Chain 530 Natural 180 Link (https://www.jpcycles.com/product/166-6768/rk-chains-pro-drag-chain-530-natural-100ft-roll?mrkgcl=444&mrkgadid=3228383481&rkg_id=h-710c0b32bbcb21070f28e758f0139ee9_t-1519860967&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=363733654994_product_type_vehicles_%26_parts_product_type_land_vehicles_product_type&utm_campaign=PLA+-+Shopping+Campaign&product_id=166-6768&utm_content=pla&adpos=1o4&creative=42040092610&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhbSRpOPJ2QIVULbACh0RhQviEAQYBCABEgJ0tfD_BwE)
I used to order chains thru Bandit (They use Diamond, but IMO their QC and product has gone downhill in recent years). I liked that Bandit could get me the oddball sizes for the different engine and clutch teeth combos I use.
Let's be clear-there is no bullet proof primary chain over 160 HP/TQ plus, especially if you drag race or hammer it on a regular basis.
Bandit belt drive is the way to go-
Running chain, I dont complain or bitch about wear-it is part of maintenance IMO, and simply a part to change out, like a spark plug.
I just want it to last as long as possible, and those of you who abuse them need to check them, keep them tight, and keep a spare ready to go. No Big Deal.
Thanks for the kind words PW. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it. One thing to write a check and have a dyno sheet. Something else to regularly go deep.
The usual suspects. Too funny. I have learned to separate the signal from the noise.
Paul thanks for the feedback on the RK. You guys using the stock shoe and manual adjuster.
Quote from: ecir50 on February 28, 2018, 06:30:22 PM
Paul thanks for the feedback on the RK. You guys using the stock shoe and manual adjuster.
I am using the shoe from bandit that is made from a solid block along with the oem manual adjuster.
Thanks, will give a look into the Bandit shoe.
Quote from: turboprop on February 25, 2018, 02:33:24 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
What did you find out with the crank?
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 10, 2018, 08:12:22 PM
Quote from: turboprop on February 25, 2018, 02:33:24 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
What did you find out with the crank?
Have been out of town for a few weeks. The parts to replace the transmission main shaft and inner primary are all on hand. The plan for when I return is to rebuild the trans and inner primary before tearing into the engine. John Dahmer assures me it will be alright and I believe him, but would like to see what the dial indicator says.
Quote from: turboprop on March 12, 2018, 05:37:51 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 10, 2018, 08:12:22 PM
Quote from: turboprop on February 25, 2018, 02:33:24 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 25, 2018, 12:30:34 PM
Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.
The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.
So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.
What did you find out with the crank?
Have been out of town for a few weeks. The parts to replace the transmission main shaft and inner primary are all on hand. The plan for when I return is to rebuild the trans and inner primary before tearing into the engine. John Dahmer assures me it will be alright and I believe him, but would like to see what the dial indicator says.
I agree that John is very reliable with what he says. But like you, I would sleep better after seeing the needle barely move.
I would want to know as well . Just to be sure .. One would think it would be fine . But back to sleeping the wondering part in the back of your mind.. ARRRGGG some days ignorance would really be bliss .
I really did not want to empty out the cam chest to measure the runout and was just going to measure the output shaft side. But as mentioned, almost impossible to sleep at night with that little guy whispering in my ear. After the trans is buttoned up and the bench is wiped down would be a good time to pull the guts out. If the crank needs attention it will be pretty easy at this stage to pull the engine. The current set of cams are gear drive, but if the runout is within range for some chain drive cams, that might be a course of action.
Made some progress this weekend.
- Replaced the bent mains shaft, along with new ceramic bearings throughout the transmission.
- Mounted the NOS inner primary case.
- Cleaned and prepped everything for the next shop day.
The clutch consists of a Barnett branded Evolution basket, Bandit Sportman clutch w/new center hub & 10-plate pack. The front sprocket is from Twin Power/Vulcan and the new chain is from RK. Not really visible are the billet inspection cover and shift tube from Vulcan, ARP 12pt hardware, RedLine shock proof transmission oil and Redline primary case oil.
I feel confident with this setup.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/796/27148508988_99730f894b_b.jpg)
Good deal :up:
So I take it the crank checked out ok?
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 25, 2018, 07:50:21 PM
Good deal :up:
So I take it the crank checked out ok?
Yes. Still less than .001" runout on both ends. Speaks volumes to the integrity of a Hoban Bros build crankshaft using S&S wheels and Carrillo rods. John said it would be straight and is was. I thoroughly enjoyed emptying out the cam chest though.
Quote from: turboprop on March 25, 2018, 07:55:52 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 25, 2018, 07:50:21 PM
Good deal :up:
So I take it the crank checked out ok?
Yes. Still less than .001" runout on both ends. Speaks volumes to the integrity of a Hoban Bros build crankshaft using S&S wheels and Carrillo rods. John said it would be straight and is was. I thoroughly enjoyed emptying out the cam chest though.
:hyst:
Good to hear about the crank. Makes me feel better about mine, knowing how tough they are.
Will add that the NOS inner primary came from my friend Eric Barton (aka Elvis Place). He made me a very good deal. Great guy and please dont turn my thread into a Elvis taste great/less filling thread.
Awesome progress
Glad to hear the crank is well.
Quote from: turboprop on March 25, 2018, 07:45:19 PM
Made some progress this weekend.
- Replaced the bent mains shaft, along with new ceramic bearings throughout the transmission.
- Mounted the NOS inner primary case.
- Cleaned and prepped everything for the next shop day.
The clutch consists of a Barnett branded Evolution basket, Bandit Sportman clutch w/new center hub & 10-plate pack. The front sprocket is from Twin Power/Vulcan and the new chain is from RK. Not really visible are the billet inspection cover and shift tube from Vulcan, ARP 12pt hardware, RedLine shock proof transmission oil and Redline primary case oil.
I feel confident with this setup.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/796/27148508988_99730f894b_b.jpg)
Update: Very strange. I buttoned everything up a couple days ago, went out riding, new setup is fantastic. Really. Love the solid front sprocket. But I will get back to that in a bit. So, there was a small leak, me being a fanatic, I tore right into it. This is where the strange part comes in. The Redline fluid came out black, as in blacker than black. This is after hundred miles or so. The stuff went in almost clear with a slight reddish tint. Everything in the primary was either new out of the box or had been hot tanked. The new RK chain, Trim Power/Vulcan fixed sprocket and Evo Ind basket were the only components that had not gone through the hot tank. Very strange. I mean BLACK. Unlike any primary fluid of any mileage that I have ever seen.
Back the new setup. Love the fixed front sprocket. Not sure why I waited so long to get one. Shifted smoother, if thats possible. Finding neutral was effortless. Any clunk that was there before is gone now. Could not detect any difference in felt vibrations, Heck, I even think the lifter made less noise. Hahaha, not really but had to get poke some of you.
The new 10 plate clutch pack from Bandit is the BOMB! As per guidance, I dropped a bunch of spring pressure and it held just fine. Love it.
When I button up this time the Redline primary fluid will be replaced with some type of ATF. Whatever I have in the garage. Just to clean everything out.
As for the leaks, my guess is some RTV around the bolt holes where the engine mates with the primary will stop them.
I opted out on the RTV when I pulled my inner primary I used 2 Locktite products one was a thread sealer for the inner primary bolts.
The others name I can't recall and I'm on duty so I can't go to the toolbox and check,lol
Both worked perfectly with no leaks, I'll post the name tomorrow but I imagine you may already be familiar with it.
I like Locktite products a lot.
Mike
Ed. the clutch pressure, just curious how much by feel does it feel as reduced? Also curious as to the actual spring or shim changes.
Quote from: mrmike on April 01, 2018, 05:39:23 PM
I opted out on the RTV when I pulled my inner primary I used 2 Locktite products one was a thread sealer for the inner primary bolts.
The others name I can't recall and I'm on duty so I can't go to the toolbox and check,lol
Both worked perfectly with no leaks, I'll post the name tomorrow but I imagine you may already be familiar with it.
I like Locktite products a lot.
Mike
You do know that sealing the threads of the bolts that secure the inner primary to the engine case doesnt really seal anything, right?
There is no fluid inside the engine case to come out. The fluid is in the primary case and leaks around the bolts and between the engine and inner primary cases. The threaded portion of the bolt inside the engine case really seals nothing in this application.
I simply cut a cover and got caught. Many years of dealing with For inner primary leaks has taught me to be almost surgically clean, to press the new seals in as square as possible and tot he correct depth, to pack them with grease, and to put a light bead of RTV around each of the bolt holes on the engine and trans mission cases before slipping on the inner primary. I skipped the RTV step and got called on it.
I just put the inner primary back on, called it a night. Will button this up tomorrow and see if its sealed or not.
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 01, 2018, 06:12:59 PM
Ed. the clutch pressure, just curious how much by feel does it feel as reduced? Also curious as to the actual spring or shim changes.
I forget which springs are in the bandit, they are all the same not mixed and matched. There were three shims under each of the springs. On the advice of Bandit, I removed all of the shims. Seems to be working. The clutch lever on this bike is now really really light. But its not apples to apples with what most harley riders have as this has a hydraulic clutch that consists of a Brembo RCS (Radial 19mm) master cylinder, Galfer GP hydraulic line and a 1.5" slave cylinder. Not typical Harley stuff.
As much as I like the Bandit clutch, how much torque it can hold, etc, I have to shift to some sort of variable pressure clutch in order to launch this bike as hard as I would like and not flip it over. A little AIM isn't going to do it, and I dont have a good feeling for the Barnett street stuff. Will probably end up with a full on Bandit Super Clutch with an MTC variable plate and a hacked up primary cover.
Quote from: turboprop on April 01, 2018, 07:30:12 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 01, 2018, 06:12:59 PM
Ed. the clutch pressure, just curious how much by feel does it feel as reduced? Also curious as to the actual spring or shim changes.
I forget which springs are in the bandit, they are all the same not mixed and matched. There were three shims under each of the springs. On the advice of Bandit, I removed all of the shims. Seems to be working. The clutch lever on this bike is now really really light. But its not apples to apples with what most harley riders have as this has a hydraulic clutch that consists of a Brembo RCS (Radial 19mm) master cylinder, Galfer GP hydraulic line and a 1.5" slave cylinder. Not typical Harley stuff.
As much as I like the Bandit clutch, how much torque it can hold, etc, I have to shift to some sort of variable pressure clutch in order to launch this bike as hard as I would like and not flip it over. A little AIM isn't going to do it, and I dont have a good feeling for the Barnett street stuff. Will probably end up with a full on Bandit Super Clutch with an MTC variable plate and a hacked up primary cover.
Yes I agree, hydraulic may have a different linear drop in pressure compared to a cable. But adding that additional disc and them telling you take the shims out sounds promising as far as lever pressure drop.
I need another heavy duty clutch as I'm putting my 117 from the bench to my '09 bike. I may try a Bandit with the additional disc in the 124 bike, and move the Scorpion in it over to the 117.
[/quote]
. A little AIM isn't going to do it, and I dont have a good feeling for the Barnett street stuff. Will probably end up with a full on Bandit Super Clutch with an MTC variable plate and a hacked up primary cover.
[/quote]
I just went with the Superclutch with MTC. It will take some fiddling with, but I think it will do the trick. I've never had a clutch that drops in neutral as easy as this, and no stationary drag on it like with the Barnett I had. I couldn't run the extra disc with the MTC, because you have to maintain an airgap between the lockup fingers and the pressure plate of .100-.125 for it to work correctly. It does allow for running much less static spring, my lever pull is less than my stock roadglide. Both are hydraulic units.
Quote from: Jonny Cash on April 02, 2018, 05:42:07 AM
. A little AIM isn't going to do it, and I dont have a good feeling for the Barnett street stuff. Will probably end up with a full on Bandit Super Clutch with an MTC variable plate and a hacked up primary cover.
[/quote]
I just went with the Superclutch with MTC. It will take some fiddling with, but I think it will do the trick. I've never had a clutch that drops in neutral as easy as this, and no stationary drag on it like with the Barnett I had. I couldn't run the extra disc with the MTC, because you have to maintain an airgap between the lockup fingers and the pressure plate of .100-.125 for it to work correctly. It does allow for running much less static spring, my lever pull is less than my stock roadglide. Both are hydraulic units.
[/quote]
Right on! This is exactly the type of feedback I was hoping for. That looks like a '94-'06 style inner primary case. How did you solve the outer cover clearance issue?
Quote from: turboprop on April 01, 2018, 05:27:40 PM
Quote from: turboprop on March 25, 2018, 07:45:19 PM
Made some progress this weekend.
- Replaced the bent mains shaft, along with new ceramic bearings throughout the transmission.
- Mounted the NOS inner primary case.
- Cleaned and prepped everything for the next shop day.
The clutch consists of a Barnett branded Evolution basket, Bandit Sportman clutch w/new center hub & 10-plate pack. The front sprocket is from Twin Power/Vulcan and the new chain is from RK. Not really visible are the billet inspection cover and shift tube from Vulcan, ARP 12pt hardware, RedLine shock proof transmission oil and Redline primary case oil.
I feel confident with this setup.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/796/27148508988_99730f894b_b.jpg)
Update: Very strange. I buttoned everything up a couple days ago, went out riding, new setup is fantastic. Really. Love the solid front sprocket. But I will get back to that in a bit. So, there was a small leak, me being a fanatic, I tore right into it. This is where the strange part comes in. The Redline fluid came out black, as in blacker than black. This is after hundred miles or so. The stuff went in almost clear with a slight reddish tint. Everything in the primary was either new out of the box or had been hot tanked. The new RK chain, Trim Power/Vulcan fixed sprocket and Evo Ind basket were the only components that had not gone through the hot tank. Very strange. I mean BLACK. Unlike any primary fluid of any mileage that I have ever seen.
Back the new setup. Love the fixed front sprocket. Not sure why I waited so long to get one. Shifted smoother, if thats possible. Finding neutral was effortless. Any clunk that was there before is gone now. Could not detect any difference in felt vibrations, Heck, I even think the lifter made less noise. Hahaha, not really but had to get poke some of you.
The new 10 plate clutch pack from Bandit is the BOMB! As per guidance, I dropped a bunch of spring pressure and it held just fine. Love it.
When I button up this time the Redline primary fluid will be replaced with some type of ATF. Whatever I have in the garage. Just to clean everything out.
As for the leaks, my guess is some RTV around the bolt holes where the engine mates with the primary will stop them.
Did the fluid have any odd smell or just a color change?
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on April 02, 2018, 06:08:37 AM
Quote from: turboprop on April 01, 2018, 05:27:40 PM
Quote from: turboprop on March 25, 2018, 07:45:19 PM
Made some progress this weekend.
- Replaced the bent mains shaft, along with new ceramic bearings throughout the transmission.
- Mounted the NOS inner primary case.
- Cleaned and prepped everything for the next shop day.
The clutch consists of a Barnett branded Evolution basket, Bandit Sportman clutch w/new center hub & 10-plate pack. The front sprocket is from Twin Power/Vulcan and the new chain is from RK. Not really visible are the billet inspection cover and shift tube from Vulcan, ARP 12pt hardware, RedLine shock proof transmission oil and Redline primary case oil.
I feel confident with this setup.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/796/27148508988_99730f894b_b.jpg)
Update: Very strange. I buttoned everything up a couple days ago, went out riding, new setup is fantastic. Really. Love the solid front sprocket. But I will get back to that in a bit. So, there was a small leak, me being a fanatic, I tore right into it. This is where the strange part comes in. The Redline fluid came out black, as in blacker than black. This is after hundred miles or so. The stuff went in almost clear with a slight reddish tint. Everything in the primary was either new out of the box or had been hot tanked. The new RK chain, Trim Power/Vulcan fixed sprocket and Evo Ind basket were the only components that had not gone through the hot tank. Very strange. I mean BLACK. Unlike any primary fluid of any mileage that I have ever seen.
Back the new setup. Love the fixed front sprocket. Not sure why I waited so long to get one. Shifted smoother, if thats possible. Finding neutral was effortless. Any clunk that was there before is gone now. Could not detect any difference in felt vibrations, Heck, I even think the lifter made less noise. Hahaha, not really but had to get poke some of you.
The new 10 plate clutch pack from Bandit is the BOMB! As per guidance, I dropped a bunch of spring pressure and it held just fine. Love it.
When I button up this time the Redline primary fluid will be replaced with some type of ATF. Whatever I have in the garage. Just to clean everything out.
As for the leaks, my guess is some RTV around the bolt holes where the engine mates with the primary will stop them.
Did the fluid have any odd smell or just a color change?
You know, after thinking about this some more, the dark color may be a result of the moly grease that Bandit provides for use on the main shaft.
To answer your question, no odd smell, just the color change.
I have seen that as well , . That grease will change the color or the fluid and it does not take much to do it. Have seen anti seize make you think that there is a major issue as well . When one did not exist
much less static spring, my lever pull is less than my stock roadglide. Both are hydraulic units.
[/quote]
Right on! This is exactly the type of feedback I was hoping for. That looks like a '94-'06 style inner primary case. How did you solve the outer cover clearance issue?
[/quote]
The Barnett outer cover clears it, I got a used one from Barnett. They don't make them anymore but they are out there. I'd check with them and see, they scrounged around and found me one. I have also seen one listed on a dragbike facebook page. I think someone made them for Barnett, I know they farm out their baskets so they may be available from whoever cut them originally. If I did my own, I'd do a bigger derby cover so the pack could be changed without outer removal. The superclutch is bigger diameter than a Barnett clutch, The Barnett could be changed without removing the outer
Jonny
I think Evolution was doing it .. I could be wrong but for some reason that sticks in my mind .. A quick call to Chase at barnett would clear that up .
I talked to Chance @ Barnett last year and he said he could put me together one of those extended outer primary covers to run a MTC lock up. He said he wasn't selling them any longer...but he had everything he needed around the shop to make me one if I wanted one. That was for my 08 bagger. I'm not sure if he had the pieces to do one for a FXR.
Ed...that moly grease that Bandit sends will make your head swim when you see the primary fluid come out the first few times. I noticed on my 3rd change of primary fluid that the blackness went away.
Kelly...sweet set up! :up:
I had a brand new Barnett billet cover, but sold it two summers ago when I was laid off. Dam it.
Is the need for ore room only through the derby cover, or a larger area? Jim Kennedy had an extension made for his primary at the derby cover opening to gain room. He also told me that T-Man was marketing a similar cover.
(https://tmanperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/T-Man-Racing-Clutch.jpg)
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 02, 2018, 07:01:35 AM
Is the need for ore room only through the derby cover, or a larger area? Jim Kennedy had an extension made for his primary at the derby cover opening to gain room. He also told me that T-Man was marketing a similar cover.
(https://tmanperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/T-Man-Racing-Clutch.jpg)
For me just through the derby cover, my Barnett pressure plate would come out through it, the Superclutch won't. I can fiddle with springs and weights, just cant service the pack like before
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 02, 2018, 07:01:35 AM
Is the need for ore room only through the derby cover, or a larger area? Jim Kennedy had an extension made for his primary at the derby cover opening to gain room. He also told me that T-Man was marketing a similar cover.
(https://tmanperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/T-Man-Racing-Clutch.jpg)
This cover extension is very interesting. That five-hole outer cover is laid out very differently from the earlier 3-hole cover. Somehow the inspection cover on the 5-hole version is centered more evenly over the clutch. Unfortunately, the '94 and up inner case with the hole for the FXR mid shifter is extremely rare. Have one on my current For project but have reservations about using it as when it breaks (and it will) a replacement will be very hard (and expensive) to locate. No free munches thats for sure.
Quote from: turboprop on April 02, 2018, 08:40:59 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 02, 2018, 07:01:35 AM
Is the need for ore room only through the derby cover, or a larger area? Jim Kennedy had an extension made for his primary at the derby cover opening to gain room. He also told me that T-Man was marketing a similar cover.
(https://tmanperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/T-Man-Racing-Clutch.jpg)
This cover extension is very interesting. That five-hole outer cover is laid out very differently from the earlier 3-hole cover. Somehow the inspection cover on the 5-hole version is centered more evenly over the clutch. Unfortunately, the '94 and up inner case with the hole for the FXR mid shifter is extremely rare. Have one on my current For project but have reservations about using it as when it breaks (and it will) a replacement will be very hard (and expensive) to locate. No free munches thats for sure.
And I keep forgetting that your cover is three hole. :doh:
Out of curiosity, what is different about this clutch? Is it just additional bite/strength or something else entirely? Is the "MTC" part just added to the pressure plate of an existing Bandit clutch?
Quote from: Nastytls on April 02, 2018, 08:45:33 AM
Out of curiosity, what is different about this clutch? Is it just additional bite/strength or something else entirely? Is the "MTC" part just added to the pressure plate of an existing Bandit clutch?
Not sure which clutch you are referring two as there are two different clutches being discussed here; the Bandit Sportsman and the Bandit Super Clutch.
The Sportsman drops into existing oem or oem replacement style baskets. Its a typical six-coil spring setup with an increased surface area compared to the oem harley units.
The Super Clutch, with or without the MTC lockup unit is a totally different design that uses a billet steel basket and larger everything. The MTC variable pressure hat is optional. Not good for most street riders that use the hand clutch to operate. Good for racers and others that have air or electric shifters where the hand clutch is used only during the launch and stopping.
Ed
This guy was making some harley parts several years ago. Not sure if it wen very far but maybe a call to him . Billet outer cover was what i heard. Again second hand info but it might be worth a shot . He is a metric guy but has all the items needed to make just about anything .
http://rocksolidmfg.com/products/kawasaki-zx14-evo-series/ (http://rocksolidmfg.com/products/kawasaki-zx14-evo-series/)
Quote from: turboprop on April 02, 2018, 08:58:02 AM
Quote from: Nastytls on April 02, 2018, 08:45:33 AM
Out of curiosity, what is different about this clutch? Is it just additional bite/strength or something else entirely? Is the "MTC" part just added to the pressure plate of an existing Bandit clutch?
Not sure which clutch you are referring two as there are two different clutches being discussed here; the Bandit Sportsman and the Bandit Super Clutch.
The Sportsman drops into existing oem or oem replacement style baskets. Its a typical six-coil spring setup with an increased surface area compared to the oem harley units.
The Super Clutch, with or without the MTC lockup unit is a totally different design that uses a billet steel basket and larger everything. The MTC variable pressure hat is optional. Not good for most street riders that use the hand clutch to operate. Good for racers and others that have air or electric shifters where the hand clutch is used only during the launch and stopping.
Sorry. Should have been more specific. I have the Bandit so I'm familiar with that, I was curious about the super clutch and mtc. Thank you for your explanation. :up:
Quote from: turboprop on April 01, 2018, 07:21:03 PM
Quote from: mrmike on April 01, 2018, 05:39:23 PM
I opted out on the RTV when I pulled my inner primary I used 2 Locktite products one was a thread sealer for the inner primary bolts.
The others name I can't recall and I'm on duty so I can't go to the toolbox and check,lol
Both worked perfectly with no leaks, I'll post the name tomorrow but I imagine you may already be familiar with it.
I like Locktite products a lot.
Mike
You do know that sealing the threads of the bolts that secure the inner primary to the engine case doesnt really seal anything, right?
There is no fluid inside the engine case to come out. The fluid is in the primary case and leaks around the bolts and between the engine and inner primary cases. The threaded portion of the bolt inside the engine case really seals nothing in this application.
I simply cut a cover and got caught. Many years of dealing with For inner primary leaks has taught me to be almost surgically clean, to press the new seals in as square as possible and tot he correct depth, to pack them with grease, and to put a light bead of RTV around each of the bolt holes on the engine and trans mission cases before slipping on the inner primary. I skipped the RTV step and got called on it.
I just put the inner primary back on, called it a night. Will button this up tomorrow and see if its sealed or not.
Yup I'm aware that the bolt threads should present no problem, that said Manual wanted a dab of RTV put on the bolt threads upon reinstallation, nope not happening, so I used Locktite 565 thread sealant just to keep the voices quiet.
I used 518 Flange sealant at the mating surfaces in place of the RTV.
Worked nicely.
Mike
Quote from: turboprop on April 02, 2018, 06:54:14 AM
I had a brand new Barnett billet cover, but sold it two summers ago when I was laid off. Dam it.
Glad to see your set up you have is working so well. :up:
Best parts, usually equals best results.
As far as the outer, you are fine for now, your top shelf parts you have in there are bad ass, hold easily what you run, you ain't dragging it, so you don't need Straight Cash's set up. Period.
For now, you are done on the primary side.
Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams..... :doh:
Just a side note that the MTC lockup will not fit the standard super clutch.
John
I tried to post a pick of my primary side but my file was to large. Here is a YouTube video. I have a super clutch with an MTC lockup electric over air shifter with an adjustable engine kill. Foot or button shift always smooth and easy. Lever pull is about 200 lbs. https://youtu.be/ELY2zUv20_g
Thanks John
Update:
The Smack-A-Hoe TC124 has been refined a bit. I started out with a Zippers G3 carb with 2ea Thunderjets and a JBV Guppy exhaust pipe. The initial break-in tune was on the safe side with rich jetting and conservative timing tables. Even with a full air cleaner and baffle in the pipe it made over 150hp (SAE) on the break in tune.
The G3 has since been replaced with a Mikuni 48 and the Guppy has been replaced with a Bassani Hi-Output Road Rage. The G3 made great power and the bike actually had decent fuel mileage with it. Unfortunately, there was a lean spot right in the lazy cruise RPM area that could not be tuned out. The Guppy pipe is showing its age. At the same time that the Guppy developed a crack, Bassani offered me one of their new Hi-Output pipes to test.
After chasing the Nirvana tune on the Mik48, it has come full circle and is now not very far off from the factory settings with a 165 main (160 factory) and the clip lowered lowered to the second from bottom position (Center from factory). Only issue is a couple areas of the rpm range are slightly rich.
This winter I am going to pull the pushrods and have a set of tapered solids made. Also thinking about converting from carb to fuel injection and trying one of the new Lectron 52mm carbs.
Just when you think it couldn't get better. :up:
Down for end of summer maintenance. Just about everything associated with the front wheel is worn out. She is getting a new radial tire, ceramic bearings from Micro Blue Racing, new friction rings from BrakeTech, and the non ARP hardware will be replaced with 12pt stuff from ARP. I am also going to unlace the hub from the rim, clean and polish everything and then re-true everything.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50391126398_a2a3644cee_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50391814996_a6d12062fc_o.jpg)
:up:
Are those GSXR forks? Year?
Quote from: Deye76 on September 27, 2020, 05:11:21 PM
:up:
Are those GSXR forks? Year?
The fork legs are from an '07-'08 GSXR-1000 with 3" extensions at the bottom and Ohlins internals. I made the trees.
From the sticker on the bike lift.....25 years old or better? :smile:
Quote from: Hillside Motorcycle on September 28, 2020, 04:29:48 AM
From the sticker on the bike lift.....25 years old or better? :smile:
At least. These lifts are like Harleys. The design hasn't changed that much over the years. They get rebuilt and keep on going.
Those lifts got throw out of here almost 20 years ago, not that they were bad. I just got different lifts that work better for my. If I never tried the new one out I probably would still have the Handys.
Lets not turn my Smack-A-Hoe thread into a discussion about lifts. If anyone feels the need to discuss Handy lifts there are dozens of threads dedicated to lifts. Please use the search function and go somewhere else.
Are you using narrow bands to tune on this bike? Was that lean spot with the G3 something you could feel on the road?
Quote from: choseneasy on September 28, 2020, 10:55:58 AM
Are you using narrow bands to tune on this bike? Was that lean spot with the G3 something you could feel on the road?
I used to have an AFR gauge that used a narrow band sensor but that has been replaced with a WEGO III that uses a wide band sensor.
The lean spot with the G3 could definitely be felt by seat of the pants and was plainly visible via the little balls of aluminum on the spark plug. Not cool.
Those little balls of death are ugly when you see them.
Very interesting info- almost everyone would run it fat and call it good. When you are happy I bet your bikes have snap everywhere.
In your post about from August last year, you mentioned the 48mm Mik' stock main jet was a 160, and you ended up at 165, was this a typo as the stock jet is a 190 ?
https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf (https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf)
Interesting they also mention using a fuel pump when over 120hp.
I'm using the same Carb' and I was surprised I had to pull the jetting back to around 175.
I was thinking maybe I was over Carb'ed (120" with Larry's heads) , but maybe not .
Are you still planning on going to EFI ?
Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams..... :doh:
I have now tested three different vulcan solid front sprockets & absolutely LOVE the feel/performance they give me. I can't think of a single reason to ever reinstall a compensator setup......
~John
Quote from: speedzter on September 28, 2020, 06:26:32 PM
In your post about from August last year, you mentioned the 48mm Mik' stock main jet was a 160, and you ended up at 165, was this a typo as the stock jet is a 190 ?
https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf (https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf)
Interesting they also mention using a fuel pump when over 120hp.
I'm using the same Carb' and I was surprised I had to pull the jetting back to around 175.
I was thinking maybe I was over Carb'ed (120" with Larry's heads) , but maybe not .
Are you still planning on going to EFI ?
Yes, that was a typo. Currently running a 205 main. Not running a fuel pump. Yet. I do plan to convert to FI. No timeline. Bike runs really good as is.
Quote from: choseneasy on September 28, 2020, 01:29:59 PM
Those little balls of death are ugly when you see them.
Very interesting info- almost everyone would run it fat and call it good. When you are happy I bet your bikes have snap everywhere.
Agreed. The thing is, that G3 could be made rich everywhere, EXCEPT in the areas used during mild cruising. I am convinced it was this dangerously lean area during cruise, combined with iron cylinders that led to several catastrophic meltdowns.
The AFR gauge is a dual edge sword. Yes, my bikes have plenty of snap everywhere, but I am constantly changing things looking for the perfect tune. WOT is easy, it's the midrange area that is a bit more tricky to get right.
Quote from: jmorton10 on September 29, 2020, 02:02:22 AM
Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams..... :doh:
I have now tested three different vulcan solid front sprockets & absolutely LOVE the feel/performance they give me. I can't think of a single reason to ever reinstall a compensator setup......
~John
I agree. The noise from the TC crowd on this forum in regards to compensators is deafening. Same thing, over and over. I dont think any of them know how to use the search function.
FWIW - This bike has been running a solid engine sprocket for a few years. Sky hasn't fallen, my wife hasn't left me, etc. I based my decision to purchase simply on cost. I needed a compensator, didnt want used with unknown history and didnt want to pay new prices. The solid sprocket was dirt cheap so I tried it. Home run. Could not be happier. As a side benefit I get to skip the countless threads on compensators and primary drive fluid. Life is good.
turboprob, Can you expand on the clutch where you mentioned you would be needing a different setup or variable pressure to launch the bike without flipping over
Is this what is meant by "clutch management". I always thought it meant to get enough clutch pressure to hold all the power, not necessarily to have it "slip properly" on launch. But I live under a rock compared to the stuff you are doing it is quite impressive. Thanks for sharing it all.
I see the lockup pressure plates and such but have never used them.
I personally own ductile iron cylinder, carbed, bikes and you got me thinking I ought to run AFR....I've read your posts several times here and Hillside mentioning the ductile iron cylinders being finicky/less forgiving to burn a piston. I think I will run coated pistons skirts too.
I ran a solid front sprocket on a shovelhead and really liked it.
Quote from: 98s1lightning on December 24, 2023, 07:21:39 AMturboprob, Can you expand on the clutch where you mentioned you would be needing a different setup or variable pressure to launch the bike without flipping over
Is this what is meant by "clutch management". I always thought it meant to get enough clutch pressure to hold all the power, not necessarily to have it "slip properly" on launch. But I live under a rock compared to the stuff you are doing it is quite impressive. Thanks for sharing it all.
I see the lockup pressure plates and such but have never used them.
I personally own ductile iron cylinder, carbed, bikes and you got me thinking I ought to run AFR....I've read your posts several times here and Hillside mentioning the ductile iron cylinders being finicky/less forgiving to burn a piston. I think I will run coated pistons skirts too.
I ran a solid front sprocket on a shovelhead and really liked it.
Hard launches are tough to pull off with a high powered engine and the typical 'No-slip under any conditions' type of clutch that the bagger crowd here seems to prefer. Either the rear tire breaks loose or the bike wheelies. The goal is to have consistent hard launches that are right on the edge of the rear tire breaking loose or the front tire lifting. This requires some 'tunable slip' in the clutch system. From a broad view, imagine holding an RPM, say 3k, and letting the clutch snap. Atypical on/off type clutch will either break the rear wheel loose or flip the bike. Now instead imagine a clutch that has so much slip that under the same scenario when the clutch lever is released the clutch barely engages, but as the RPM of the inner hub increases the pressure on the clutch increases. The centrifugal weights on the pressure plate are tunable, as are the springs and even the cumulative surface area of the pressure plates and steels. The details of how to do all this are typically kept close hold by those that know. Best of luck.
Quote from: turboprop on December 24, 2023, 11:23:20 AM'No-slip under any conditions' type of clutch that the bagger crowd here seems to prefer.
Who are these people? Every bike with a hand operated clutch slips the clutch in from a stop. Mechanical and electronic aids don't change the operation of this.
As a dyno operator. Clutch slippage at 1750 on a brake release pull just mean next pull is started at 2000. Breaking loose at 4500? Yes, I address this.