I have been searching and reading but the topics seem to be a bit old and things may have changed.
So, my Evo has about 62000 km (=38k miles) on the clock and the bike apart from slip-ons appear to be pretty much in stock shape. There are no extra noises from the engine as far as I can tell.
I have no idea if lifters/cam/bearing have been touched so change of lifters and bearing is what I wish to do as preventive maintenance. Evo will most likely get a mild cam as well (EV27 etc.).
Local dealer listed me what we can get and this is it:
Feuling HP+ #4061
S&S 33-5352
H-D 18523-86B
V-Thunder Hy-rev
Crane
I don't know V-Thunder or Crane part numbers yet.
They have considerable price differences: Feuling 270,- EUR, S&S 330,- EUR, H-D 450,- EUR.
What would you suggest of the above brands or are they qualitywise on same level meaning price and availability would be the deciding factor?
get intouch with HTT Member and Vendor WFOLarry via PM
or
http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/
:agree:
+1 for Larry's lifters.
Thanks, guys.
I have no doubt those are a high quality product (seen so many positive comments) but for various reasons I will need to get parts and labor from the local trusted dealer.
Just tell your trusted mechanic to buy the lifters from Larry`s Motorcycle Machine, and charge a fair markup, you will still save money, and he will still make his cut on the sale of the lifters.
From my limited experience, you can't go wrong with S&S, but dang, you guys sure pay a premium for them.
Quote from: Hossamania on July 30, 2019, 10:39:59 AM
From my limited experience, you can't go wrong with S&S, but dang, you guys sure pay a premium for them.
Someone has to pay for the 4 weeks paid vacation every year :wink:
Er...that's actually 4 weeks in the summer and 1 week in the winter. :embarrassed:
FWIW, I ordered a set of S&S lifters and EV13 cam + bearing and necessary gaskets.
I may opt to pull the heads for valve job and new seals just in case and assemble with .030 headgaskets while we are at it.
And maybe cut 1.25mm from the heads, while you are at it. Should bring the compression ratio up to about 9.5:1, and would work well with that cam.
(which is basically how mine is set up except for Crane 300-2B cam, very similar to EV-13)
:wink:
-JW
We really favor S&S lifters, and valvetrain components here.
Hopefully we get it done before winter. :smile:
On another forum there was this reply from Andrews:
"I recommend 9.25:1 (stock is 8.5:1) for the EV13 cam and 9.5:1 for the EV27 cam.
Thank you,
N.N.
Andrews Products, Inc
Technical Support"
We'll see if we can get that 9.25:1 easily.
Deleted.
Quote from: KaritheFinn on August 05, 2019, 10:45:23 AMWe'll see if we can get that 9.25:1 easily.
'Easily' meaning without changing pistons and without risking intake fitment and such.
Mine are shaved .050" (1.25mm). Very easy, any HD machine shop can do it. And no issues what-so-ever with intake manifold alignment. My machine shop guy told me that every EVO based HD police motorcycle that he's worked on came with the heads shaved .050 from the factory...
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on August 06, 2019, 05:15:05 PM
Mine are shaved .050" (1.25mm). Very easy, any HD machine shop can do it. And no issues what-so-ever with intake manifold alignment. My machine shop guy told me that every EVO based HD police motorcycle that he's worked on came with the heads shaved .050 from the factory...
-JW
:agree: in my past days of owning and working on Evos thats basically what I/we all did, cut 50 thou of the heads and fit an EV-27
easy peasy
I had a well know hi performance engine builder that told me he called the local HD dealer and was told that CHP bikes had 50 off already. He had already took off 50. Said he had a hard time getting the pushrods on and adjusted. I always just figured it was talk. My 90 FXR with 46 cam runs great. So ??
Not sure what you mean, Dan. The shop took 50 thou off a bike that already had 50 thou off, so total 100 thou? I've had some adjustable pushrods that "barely" would fit into the tappet blocks after collapsing all the way. So yeah, shaving the heads that much might be a concern depending on which pushrods you use. These days I like the S&S Time-Savers, they seem to work no problem with 50 thou shaved.
-JW
I take it that with .030" headgaskets and heads shaved .050" or thereabouts stock pushrods are a no-no and adjustables are needed?
The tappets have about .200" of travel. In theory, the stock engine with solid pushrods push the tappet plunger down .100", e.g centered in it's travel. This is to allow some room at the bottom so it does not bottom out, and some room at the top for the plunger to take up the valve lash as the cylinders/heads grow taller when the motor is hot.
I think you can probably get away with using the stock solid pushrods, as "in theory" the plungers would be .050" from the bottom and .150" from the top. However, I have not, and would not, do it myself, nor recommend it. If, for some reason in the future you need to get into the cam case, having adjustable pushrods makes it a hell of a lot easier, but make sure you get the "timesaver" type that collapse far enough to get out without pulling the rocker boxes apart.
-JW
Thanks, mate. :beer:
Choices are then pretty much down to Andrews EZ-Installs and S&S Time Savers. I think I'll prefer steel ones instead of aluminum.
Smith Bros Pushrods :up:
:agree:
Quote from: JW113 on November 15, 2019, 01:51:45 PM
The tappets have about .200" of travel. In theory, the stock engine with solid pushrods push the tappet plunger down .100", e.g centered in it's travel. This is to allow some room at the bottom so it does not bottom out, and some room at the top for the plunger to take up the valve lash as the cylinders/heads grow taller when the motor is hot.
I think you can probably get away with using the stock solid pushrods, as "in theory" the plungers would be .050" from the bottom and .150" from the top. However, I have not, and would not, do it myself, nor recommend it. If, for some reason in the future you need to get into the cam case, having adjustable pushrods makes it a hell of a lot easier, but make sure you get the "timesaver" type that collapse far enough to get out without pulling the rocker boxes apart.
-JW
If you need to tear into at a latter date, then just cut out the stock push rods. Seems funny to me to spend money on adjustables for "just in case".
Personally, I would run the stock push rods if I can, just one less thing to mess with during assembly, one less point of possible failure.
If you want to be sure there is enough travel, squeeze the oil out of a lifter and assemble the valve train. You will be able to make sure there is travel left in the lifter.
If you need shorter push rods Smith Brothers will send you out a set of non-adjustable push rods the same day, plus two three days for shipping.
My last build I took the time to measure what I needed for non-adjustable push rods and ordered the length I needed.
Quote from: FSG on November 16, 2019, 12:45:17 AM
Smith Bros Pushrods :up:
I don't bother using anything else. :up:
If you enjoy pulling the tank, and taking the rocker boxes apart to change the tappets (like every 30K miles or so?), go for it. Same thing with changing the cam. I can't even remember how many cams I tried in my '91 until I finally found the one I liked best. Personally, I like the adjustable push rod solution.
-JW
"Personally, I like the adjustable push rod solution."
:up: :up: Been using them forever it seems, no difference in noise, but all the difference in making life easier.