Stock evo starter and open 3 inch bdl belt drive on my custom built softail. Been running this setup for years. All of a sudden my starter pinion gear started to stick and not retract.
It mostly does it when it's cold. And if I cycle the starter a few times it will eventually un-stick itself. But it doesn't retract until I do.
I took the cover off and cleaned it. I haven't taken apart the whole pinion jackshaft yet. Do you guys think it's the bearing going bad or just a gummed up shaft? Advice please
Clean the shaft above and below the pinion gear.
Lube the shaft with silicone or glycerin, both of these lubes aren't effected by cold or heat.
Glycerin obtainable from a drug store.
Test the starter operation before you install.
Just my suggestion.
start at the battery first, then work towards the starter , id remove starter if suspect and have it checked out
Quote from: barny7655 on November 22, 2018, 06:23:02 PM
start at the battery first, then work towards the starter , id remove starter if suspect and have it checked out
This^^^
Weak battery UNDER LOAD causes this most times.
After test (Do you have a spare or a strong car battery you can test with), then go to starter and starter jackshaft (I like one piece All Balls) https://www.jpcycles.com/product/362-006/all-balls-racing-9-tooth-jack-shaft-kit-for-big-twin-with-66-tooth-ring-gear
This should take care of it-
I don't know squat about open belt primaries but since you said you have a stock starter I would try these two things first, neither of which should require starter removal.
1. Disconnect the battery and remove the long jackshaft bolt. Make sure it is not bent or bowed then reinstall it lightly. If it uses a washer on the end with a locking tab this will keep it in place without having to use much torque on the bolt.
2. Go to the other side and remove the solenoid cover and remove the plunger. Clean out the cavity real good then scrub the cylinder of the plunger with steel wool, a scotch brite pad or very fine sandpaper. Make sure the cylinder (and mating cavity) are 100% clean and residue free, then coat the cylinder with a paper thin amount of dielectric grease and reinstall.
Try those two things and see if that helps before you take it all apart.
I started with the easy things first and replaced the battery. It was time for one anyway. That did not help the situation.
Next step for me is to pull the starter and check that out.
you have done well , step by step , the KISS method does it every time , cheers Barny
The jackshaft does not look gunked or buggered up, but the contacts in the end of the starter have seen better days. I don't really know too much about starters to go any deeper and know what I'm looking at.
I will say the starter solenoid button that I am running has also seen better days and could be a contributing.
I got a new starter today (new all balls 1.4) and I am going to get a new starter solenoid button hopefully tomorrow at j&p after a swapmeet. I figure between these two things I should have my problem resolved and a good new starter for my s&s v111 when I get her after December.
Update:
I am in the process of swapping the starters when i notice that the new all balls starter pinion stuck out farther than the oem. I compared the two together side by side. Mind you, I am running a starter solenoid button to start the bike.
I noticed that the one with my starter button stuck out farther no matter which starter I put it on. I picked up a new starter solenoid button and put that on the all balls starter. It didn't stick out farther then. Looks like the problem may have been the corroded starter solenoid button. And probably the starter. I have to wait until tomorrow to get the bolt I need for the jackshaft. My old one was a 1/4-20 and the new one is a 10-32 and I don't have he other one from he bdl kit 12 years ago.