This is on my Shovel, I dont think it matters but....I installed an automotive type ignition switch. Accessory works perfectly, lights etc.
When I turn to ignition...bam...30 amp breaker goes. I isolated the three wires I have going to the breaker which goes to the battery.
I removed the regulator wire and she cranks normally which tells me the short is in the regulator/wire. New aftermarket (that could be the problem) No bare spots on the wire.
Is there a way to check the regulator for short or is it just aftermarket trash? Somewhere buried I have my old one. I will try to find it and see what happens. Its a 32 amp system, by the way.
Any and all clues will be appreciated. Hopefully Im missing something simple.
John
Update: the regulator is grounded. Tested with a test light.
I put ohm meter on each plug lead, positive to lead, negative to ground and got no indication on the meter. Not 100% sure how that translates but those are the results.
Sounds like the regulator may be grounded/shorted out internally. Disconnect all the wires and remove the regulator from the bike. Run a hot lead from the battery directly to the hot lead on the regulator. Clip your test light to the bike then touch the metal regulator case. If your test light comes on regulator is shorted. If no light leave the hot lead on and check the other 2 leads to ground. Light should not come on. Regulators have internal blocking diodes that only let the voltage pass in 1 direction. If one has failed it will cause a short.
Thank you IronButt, I will test as you say in the morning and report results. By the way, mad respect to you and all the Iron Butt's out there. A Bro of mine just did a 50CC. He's older than me (I'm 64). He did it on a Springer Softail!! No road sofa!!!
Ironbutt, I checked the regulator as you said and it checks out ok, unfortunately. Is there a way to check the stator in the bike? If not I will pull it all apart and reinstall my old stator and regulator. They worked for about 10 years and just figured while I had it apart Id go new. So if the old gear works then I know what's what.
So if you have a method of checking the stator in the bike I'd like to know.
Thanks again
There is a way to check it. Unplug it, put your volt meter to ohms, one lead to ground, one to a lead on the stator, then the other, each should show open, if not, the stator is grounding out and defective. You can test across the leads on the stator, but I can't remember what the reading should be. The next is to start the bike and test across the leads with your meter on AC voltage, be careful not to short them, you should get something like 14 volts at 1000 rpms, 24 volts at 2000 rpms, 30-some volts at 3000, etc. I am not sure on the voltage, I might be way off, someone here will probably chime in with values, but at least that is the procedure to use.
Good luck.
Thanks Hoss, I will give it a go and report back. Much obliged. Another question, if it is shorted would it trip the 30 amp breaker?
I can't answer that, but it might make sense.
I just did a search here in General for "stator testing" and came up with a better detailed procedure. I can't link it with my phone.
Ill search it. I searched 'stator' but far too many hits. Thanks again, good idea!
Quote from: Hossamania on December 04, 2018, 07:54:35 PM
There is a way to check it. Unplug it, put your volt meter to ohms, one lead to ground, one to a lead on the stator, then the other, each should show open, if not, the stator is grounding out and defective. You can test across the leads on the stator, but I can't remember what the reading should be. The next is to start the bike and test across the leads with your meter on AC voltage, be careful not to short them, you should get something like 14 volts at 1000 rpms, 24 volts at 2000 rpms, 30-some volts at 3000, etc. I am not sure on the voltage, I might be way off, someone here will probably chime in with values, but at least that is the procedure to use.
Good luck.
:up: the continuity check, with the bike off and leads from the meter in the stator plug - found this while trying to recall how I did mine
https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle
good luck
Hey Hoss....bullseye buddy. That was the right search. A ton of info on testing the whole system. OK, I've got my work cut out.
As always I'll report back.
BTW, this is it. Once I get this sorted out I start a fresh top end and valve train rebuild of the ol' HotRodShovel. Took it from a DuoGlide like bike to an old school 70's chopper. And a L51 cam that I cant wait to feel....
Thanks again for the lead.
John
Thanks Pete. If I need a new charging system Ill give Cali Phil a call.
Quote from: HotRodShovel on December 05, 2018, 07:43:46 AM
Thanks Pete. If I need a new charging system Ill give Cali Phil a call.
:up:
If you have to replace your regulator, cut the plug off. It makes a good tool you can use to test your stator output.
Quote from: nmainehunter on December 05, 2018, 04:07:08 PM
If you have to replace your regulator, cut the plug off. It makes a good tool you can use to test your stator output.
:up:
Quote from: HotRodShovel on December 05, 2018, 05:44:49 AM
Hey Hoss....bullseye buddy. That was the right search. A ton of info on testing the whole system. OK, I've got my work cut out.
As always I'll report back.
BTW, this is it. Once I get this sorted out I start a fresh top end and valve train rebuild of the ol' HotRodShovel. Took it from a DuoGlide like bike to an old school 70's chopper. And a L51 cam that I cant wait to feel....
Thanks again for the lead.
John
As I recall (which could be erroneous) that cam was purchased quite some time ago. WTH? Get that thing in gear! :wink:
yea Mark.. Sometimes life gets in the way man.... Been thru an adventure. So some parts, that cam including Jims Powerglide lifters a pushrods and a few other parts were sitting in the boxes just waiting patiently for me to get my shlt together.
Now all I have to do is locate this short and the Shovel is on the road again.
Thanks for asking buddy!