After a wrist pin clip took out the bottom end on the ride to Sturgis last year, I finally have the bike back up and running.
I started with .0265 and .068 jets that seemed quite lean after the getting it going. Now .0295 and .074 in it now.
It still had a nasty stumble at 60mph just cruising. I finally disconnected (capped) the VOES and viola - no more stumble/non-spark situation.
Questions - anyway to test a VOES? How many inches (of mercury?) is for a '96 FXD? Does the VOES usually stay on all the time it is running, not off and on at 60mph? What jets should a - 80", ev27, 50 thou cut heads - have?
What carb, S&S E ?
YES - an, SnS E about 22 years old
Using a My-T-Vac and an ohm meter, the VOES should read open and 0"Hg, and closed (0 ohms) around 3-4" Hg. One thing to try if you think it is leaking, put a rubber cap over the 'nose' of the VOES. They are potted sealed, but very often with heat and age, that potting cracks and voila, leak.
What exhaust is on the bike?
Also need to make sure the no other intake leaks at the manifold O-rings.
-JW
The timing is probably advanced too far, unplugging the VOES line and plugging the carb port, retarded the timing and or fixed a vacuum leak.
VOES is your friend not a smog device. It acts like a vacuum advance. High vacuum advances the timing.
THere are two possible vacuum ports on some carbs, a VOES should be connected to manifold vacuum.
Some carbs have a "ported" vacuum port that is for purging the charcoal canister.
Connecting a VOES to a ported vacuum port would cause unexpected results.
The manifold vacuum port is behind the throttle plate or in the manifold.
A "ported" vacuum port will not have any vacuum at idle.
Burner - this makes sense. I suppose I should have a timing light, but alas... Anyway I don't feel comfortable (without elec tools) moving the timing plate and the such. I am thinking about going single fire since I still have a coil from the Ultima 113" that was in it for a while. An indi will prolly do this in the near future. The pickup looked to be a bit melted in the nosecone - I don't know how much I trust it at this point.
The exhaust has slip-ons that have been on for a while (years) now.
I did spray carb cleaner and also starting fluid. Any slight touch of spray into the carb throat from a foot away would almost kill the idle - I think real rich at this point.
Does the SnS HI-4 have a VOES wire?
Thanx
THe original Crane one did, check the S&S website for the instruction sheet.
Quote from: BKACHE on April 29, 2020, 06:58:06 AM
After a wrist pin clip took out the bottom end on the ride to Sturgis last year, I It still had a nasty stumble at
Many years back I had one with NO Wrist Pins Installed - They wanted that engine BACK.
IMO you need to get Timing adjusted correctly PRIOR to Tuning (Jetting)
VOES's, for some reason were an issue on some Model Years - If Timing does not drastically correct the problem I would replace.Changed many over the years. - Good System.
I have the S&S Hi-4N on one of my bikes, and have used the Crane Hi-4 on others in the past. They are one in the same, and yes, both use the VOES. S&S acquired the ignition products line from Crane when they bailed on the motorcycle biz.
-JW
Ok - the rest of the story.
I did mask the stumble at about 60mph with tuning and a larger jet. It seemed to lean out there. I should have listened to Thumper and put an AFR reader in there, but I am not made of money. (yes it is the cheap man that pays the most) Anyway I bought a gallon of carb cleaner - the one with the parts strainer in it and over night soaked it. In the AM I fed some 8lb fishing string thru the 3 holes just inside the butterfly on the E carb. One was a bit gooped. I suspect the carb (taken off and put in the box upside-down got a bit clogged. After putting it back on the bike ran like new. Thanx for all the VOES info, but that was a false lead by me.
Thanx again
Also I did replace the suspect ignition pickup in the nosecone.
When no change there - and the capped VOES - I went back to the carb.