so I'm thinking of starting her up today and took a look in the oil tank! wow.. about 2" of oil has gone so I guess its in the crank case!
looked under the cases and there is no drain hole... How much is too much in there!
and how can I get it out??
I'd pull the spark plugs and leave the fuel off and turn it over for a half minute or so. I'd do 10 seconds at a time on the starter, though, don't want to heat up the starter.
was thinking of that.. tin under the breather and see what gets pumped back....
Its lost a lot this year for some reson?... I'll have to take it out in future I think
Got it started... tried to pump it with no plugs, but it didn't change a thing, so had to start her up.
Keeping it as low as possable on tickeover / choke, but then after 30 seconds is coming out the breather.. even 3 to 4 mins after, its still coming out (slow trickle).. yes, its also putting it back into the tank, but I'd guess at 2/3rds back to the tank and 1/3rd out the breather...
A pretty common problem, oil seeps past the check ball and collects in the case. Easiest way to deal with it is the way you did yours, put a pan under it when starting it after a long storage.
Do a search here, there are many threads on repairing the seat and ball if you are interested in fixing it proper.
I tried fix this last year by taking the pump off and lapping the seat etc.. but its still sumped over winter? not sure what else I can try?
My breater is low down however, and not on the air filter. I have seen posts where people put them higher up but then that makes a bigger mess if it happens... but may help?
Or, I just get a extension tube for the first start of the year and feed it back to the tank!!
Buy a hose pinch off pliers for those long time storage times and clamp off the supply line. Tie a string with a red flag to it and wrap it around the throttle so you remember to take it off before starting.
I have some.. but does it damage the hose over time?
Which hose needs to be closed ... I'd need to work that out...
I owned a 73 shovel for about 28 years. It would always puke after sitting no matter what I did with the ball and seat.. Sometime in the late 80's I went with an S$S oil pump and it never puked again no matter how long it sat.
I have see a few people who say this... will have a look but think what puts people off is the $$$
If you're lazy and cheap, use one of these on the oil feed line to the pump. Found at pretty much any auto parts store. It won't hurt the hose at all. Especially if you are doing this once per season when you put the bike away for the winter. Lock the ignition to off, and tie wrap the key to the pinch clamp. No worries.
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If you have money burning a hole in your pocket, replace the oil pump. S&S are good, for sure.
-JW
Lazy and cheap.. sounds like my type of fix :up: I'm looking into it.. I'm assuming its the one close to the engine.. on the inside.
It's a common thing nature of the beast. At least bottom breathers puke the oil on the ground . Head breathers wreck the $50 air filter . just relap the check ball seat
The one street bike here with a new S&S pump on it is the Worst Sumping SOB on the Farm...
Word is some left without the Seat being done properly... Lucky Me!!!
yes, I have been reading up and some with S&S say they sump overnight! the seat can't be good on them...
Quote from: 1340evo on May 11, 2020, 01:06:00 PM
yes, I have been reading up and some with S&S say they sump overnight! the seat can't be good on them...
Certainly by Overnite!!! Damn thing... I'll pull it and check the Seat!!!
Put a manual petcock in the line. Turn off the fuel turn off the oil. Just try not to forget to turn on the oil and gas. It will stop your oil transfer you won't a new oil pump unless you forget........................
MIKE
To me that sounds like trying to fix a problem y adding another problem. :crook:
Know what you mean, and I'm certainly guilty of it. That problem of "damn this Harley-Davidson doesn't have enough horsepower".
:hyst:
-JW
we have taps at work that have a positional sensor, so I could only allow it to use the starter motor, once its switch to open ;)
Quote from: 1340evo on May 12, 2020, 11:01:03 AM
we have taps at work that have a positional sensor, so I could only allow it to use the starter motor, once its switch to open ;)
Why not makes a good fail safe. Like a neutral safety switch or a kick stand switch. Going all out and buying a new $$$$ oil pump is a choice also................
MIKE
I guess my point is why not fix the problem once instead of masking it and having to deal with it forever (or until it blossoms into a full bore i$$ue).
Two reasons come to mind. $300, and changing an oil pump in-frame is about the most un-fun part of working on a big twin. Especially removing and installing that freakin little retaining ring on the pump drive shaft, not to mention getting the inner pump gear on the shaft without the woodruff key falling off. Maybe some have this down to a science or art, but me, takes hours and lots and lots of foul language. And according to the Pres, changing the oil pump is no guarantee it will solve the problem.
If clamping the oil feed line once a year to keep it from sumping solves the problem, at least in the short term, why not? Either that, or put it away with the oil tank empty and fill'er up in the spring. Deal with it when it's time for a motor rebuild.
:nix:
-JW
or remove line from air cleaner and let it run in container for first start every spring :scratch:
Once per year, I might be inclined to agree but the thread was going sideways and started discussing what happens as it gets worse.
BTW a tip for the woodruff key is to cool the shaft and install it w/ some sticky NLG1 #2 grease in the slot for retention. (The red stringy stuff) An ice pack and patience or computer aerosol seems to cool fine and keeps the grease stiff. Clean off any excess that may interfere. Tip the leading edge very slightly toward the gear and slowly walk it on. You may need a pic to finesse it a bit. It may not go the first time but it won't be the headbanger you described. I lay shop towels about so if it does fall it's a quick find. Cool and redo.
The biggest problem I had was that you absolutely cannot see it, it's all blind. Last time I did this, after trying for quite some time (as in, two or three stiff cocktails), I used the ever so lightest coat of Permatex #2 on the back side of the key, rocked it slightly downwards as you suggested, then fiddled around until I could feel it find the keyway.
So, got any good tips how to easily get that damn outside retaining ring off and on? Why oh why did they not use a regular snap ring like what is on the inside drive gear??? I run into stuff like this and it makes me think they do this intentionally to discourage people from working on their own bike.
-JW
Well JW, it'll get a little better once you have the Harbor Freight lift. Still a pain, but way better when it's not 8 inches off the ground. :SM:
A drop of super glue on the key does wonders! Glue the key into the slot.
Not sure that I'd want the key glued solid in the slot. If the front edge is too low, the gear won't go all the way on. If it's too high, you'll never get the key to go in the slot. I'm thinking you want to hold it in with something that will allow it to move after you get the gear started on, yet stay in the slot.
-JW
My ironhead and shovel did it, I ran head breather on hose to the ground to breathe like the shovel . I would put a pan under them when I started them in spring to catch oil,top off if low wouldn't do it after 1st start , Evo never had the problem .