Venting fix?

[Vision]

I just took mine apart to look at it.  I've only logged 50 miles on it and found no evidence of oil making it to the filter part.  I cut the hose down to about 10 inches so I could put the filter by the ABS module.

As for oil.  This is my 6th M8.  On the touring bikes, when I change the oil, they religiously take 4 qts and 4-8 ozs to set them at 3 dots down on a full hot check.  My bikes never idle on the side stand and are idled for 30'ish seconds, standing up, at the end of every ride. (I started doing this after my first M8 sumped). I measure the fluids that come out of my bike when servicing and what goes in...  I'm an aircraft mechanic that has always had to do trend analysis.  I also use redline to help identify all of my fluids easier. Not to mention, at 42 my eyes have trouble seeing what's on the trans dipstick. Lol

I'm glad you're having good luck with it; especially with the shorter line.   The oil volume seems like the smoking gun on my setup.   Is your bike a stock?

[cmashark]

I just took mine apart to look at it.  I've only logged 50 miles on it and found no evidence of oil making it to the filter part.  I cut the hose down to about 10 inches so I could put the filter by the ABS module.

As for oil.  This is my 6th M8.  On the touring bikes, when I change the oil, they religiously take 4 qts and 4-8 ozs to set them at 3 dots down on a full hot check.  My bikes never idle on the side stand and are idled for 30'ish seconds, standing up, at the end of every ride. (I started doing this after my first M8 sumped). I measure the fluids that come out of my bike when servicing and what goes in...  I'm an aircraft mechanic that has always had to do trend analysis.  I also use redline to help identify all of my fluids easier. Not to mention, at 42 my eyes have trouble seeing what's on the trans dipstick. Lol

I'm glad you're having good luck with it; especially with the shorter line.   The oil volume seems like the smoking gun on my setup.   Is your bike a stock?

Aftermarket stage 2, in my signature.

[1workinman]

I just took mine apart to look at it.  I've only logged 50 miles on it and found no evidence of oil making it to the filter part.  I cut the hose down to about 10 inches so I could put the filter by the ABS module.

As for oil.  This is my 6th M8.  On the touring bikes, when I change the oil, they religiously take 4 qts and 4-8 ozs to set them at 3 dots down on a full hot check.  My bikes never idle on the side stand and are idled for 30'ish seconds, standing up, at the end of every ride. (I started doing this after my first M8 sumped). I measure the fluids that come out of my bike when servicing and what goes in...  I'm an aircraft mechanic that has always had to do trend analysis.  I also use redline to help identify all of my fluids easier. Not to mention, at 42 my eyes have trouble seeing what's on the trans dipstick. Lol

6 m8 wow my hat goes off to you that a lot of bikes . is there a problem letting the bike idle on the stand mine only 2 are twin cams and I let them idle a bit to warm up . My late brother was a air craft mechanic , for Emery, Delta, and finally a air craft inspector for a corp jet co . He as like that also

Commitment issues. 

On TC's, idling on the side stand wasn't an issue, but M8's seem to leave several ounces of oil in the crankcase when idling on the stand. I haven't seen the left cases of both engines side by side to pick out all the differences in the scavenge areas.  We have tons of builders on here, I'm sure they have though.

it seems I saw a post Max posted about cases but I did not get a chance to read it .  I under stand the commitment part , I tried that a few times and it was a bad idea lol

[Fat11Lo]

None of you guys are from the south. TR was saying he is venting the heads to the oil pan instead of to an external catch tank which he discusses at the beginning of the video. This is done not to relieve pressure from the oil tank, but to relieve the pressure from the heads back into the oil tank.

Those fittings in the heads are not a new idea. S&S does that on their 4-⅛" bore heads (Evo and TC) to get around harley's patent. From S&S, those fittings are plumbed to the AC and a nipple on the manifold. It is pretty common for gear heads to drill the front port (smaller size as it comes from S&S) to accept a ⅛ NPT fitting and run both heads to a catch can. That is how the TC124 in my re/white bike is done and is very similar to how PW has his TC126 set up. The traditional head vents in my engine are plugged. I run a hose from the fitting in each head to a catch can. I also have a line teed into the oil tank vent to engine hose (similar to the setup sold by Fueling). All three of these lines have one-way valves in them. Seems to work very well.

Ed I have a 124 in my 12 Street Glide that the heads are SS that Jim at Mega Flow did ,  those heads are done like that with both heads ran down to the ground , do you recommend check valves on the lines . I was under the impression that the heads had a check of some design in the head . I have give some thought to adding the breather to the dip stick but I think that the vent needs a check valve to keep the pistons from pulling in air when the go up the cylinders or may be I wrong there but I don't see how

I have tried them with and without the one way valves. I didn't notice any differences one way or the other. Even did a few pulls on the dyno with and without. Any differences were well within the margin of error. With that, I left them in. I have S&S cast rocker boxes on this engine. From S&S, the 4-⅛" bore engines had a one way valve in the hose from the rear head to the backing plate. My reasoning was S&S put the one way valve in the line from the rear head, my engine has the front head setup the same way. Will add that this engine also has the one way breather valve in the crankcase. All of the online experts said not to run it. I spoke with an engineer at S&S about this and decided to run it. I will say that hands down, this engine is fantastic.  I run the vent lines to a catch can. Have never seen anything more than a cup of water with maybe a drop or two of oil come out.

Bottom line, the S&S check valves are inexpensive and take less than a minute each to install. Try it.

Are you referring to the 50-8122 check valve?

[turboprop]

None of you guys are from the south. TR was saying he is venting the heads to the oil pan instead of to an external catch tank which he discusses at the beginning of the video. This is done not to relieve pressure from the oil tank, but to relieve the pressure from the heads back into the oil tank.

Those fittings in the heads are not a new idea. S&S does that on their 4-⅛" bore heads (Evo and TC) to get around harley's patent. From S&S, those fittings are plumbed to the AC and a nipple on the manifold. It is pretty common for gear heads to drill the front port (smaller size as it comes from S&S) to accept a ⅛ NPT fitting and run both heads to a catch can. That is how the TC124 in my re/white bike is done and is very similar to how PW has his TC126 set up. The traditional head vents in my engine are plugged. I run a hose from the fitting in each head to a catch can. I also have a line teed into the oil tank vent to engine hose (similar to the setup sold by Fueling). All three of these lines have one-way valves in them. Seems to work very well.

Ed I have a 124 in my 12 Street Glide that the heads are SS that Jim at Mega Flow did ,  those heads are done like that with both heads ran down to the ground , do you recommend check valves on the lines . I was under the impression that the heads had a check of some design in the head . I have give some thought to adding the breather to the dip stick but I think that the vent needs a check valve to keep the pistons from pulling in air when the go up the cylinders or may be I wrong there but I don't see how

I have tried them with and without the one way valves. I didn't notice any differences one way or the other. Even did a few pulls on the dyno with and without. Any differences were well within the margin of error. With that, I left them in. I have S&S cast rocker boxes on this engine. From S&S, the 4-⅛" bore engines had a one way valve in the hose from the rear head to the backing plate. My reasoning was S&S put the one way valve in the line from the rear head, my engine has the front head setup the same way. Will add that this engine also has the one way breather valve in the crankcase. All of the online experts said not to run it. I spoke with an engineer at S&S about this and decided to run it. I will say that hands down, this engine is fantastic.  I run the vent lines to a catch can. Have never seen anything more than a cup of water with maybe a drop or two of oil come out.

Bottom line, the S&S check valves are inexpensive and take less than a minute each to install. Try it.

Are you referring to the 50-8122 check valve?

No idea. Whatever the S&S part number is for their one-way check valve for 5/-16" hose. Do they sell more than one type of check valve?

[Ohio HD]

You can get them many places, these are the same item that S&S sells.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162363795317

[Fat11Lo]

None of you guys are from the south. TR was saying he is venting the heads to the oil pan instead of to an external catch tank which he discusses at the beginning of the video. This is done not to relieve pressure from the oil tank, but to relieve the pressure from the heads back into the oil tank.

Those fittings in the heads are not a new idea. S&S does that on their 4-⅛" bore heads (Evo and TC) to get around harley's patent. From S&S, those fittings are plumbed to the AC and a nipple on the manifold. It is pretty common for gear heads to drill the front port (smaller size as it comes from S&S) to accept a ⅛ NPT fitting and run both heads to a catch can. That is how the TC124 in my re/white bike is done and is very similar to how PW has his TC126 set up. The traditional head vents in my engine are plugged. I run a hose from the fitting in each head to a catch can. I also have a line teed into the oil tank vent to engine hose (similar to the setup sold by Fueling). All three of these lines have one-way valves in them. Seems to work very well.

Ed I have a 124 in my 12 Street Glide that the heads are SS that Jim at Mega Flow did ,  those heads are done like that with both heads ran down to the ground , do you recommend check valves on the lines . I was under the impression that the heads had a check of some design in the head . I have give some thought to adding the breather to the dip stick but I think that the vent needs a check valve to keep the pistons from pulling in air when the go up the cylinders or may be I wrong there but I don't see how

I have tried them with and without the one way valves. I didn't notice any differences one way or the other. Even did a few pulls on the dyno with and without. Any differences were well within the margin of error. With that, I left them in. I have S&S cast rocker boxes on this engine. From S&S, the 4-⅛" bore engines had a one way valve in the hose from the rear head to the backing plate. My reasoning was S&S put the one way valve in the line from the rear head, my engine has the front head setup the same way. Will add that this engine also has the one way breather valve in the crankcase. All of the online experts said not to run it. I spoke with an engineer at S&S about this and decided to run it. I will say that hands down, this engine is fantastic.  I run the vent lines to a catch can. Have never seen anything more than a cup of water with maybe a drop or two of oil come out.

Bottom line, the S&S check valves are inexpensive and take less than a minute each to install. Try it.

Are you referring to the 50-8122 check valve?

No idea. Whatever the S&S part number is for their one-way check valve for 5/-16" hose. Do they sell more than one type of check valve?

Honestly I don't know, that's why I figured I would ask, as I am not familiar with the valve you are talking about

I found that number when reading "How Does My New SSW+ Breathe ?" in the FAQ section of S&S's website. I googled it and it looked like it would be used for what you are talking about, just wanted to double check

Thanks

[Fat11Lo]

You can get them many places, these are the same item that S&S sells.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162363795317

Thanks!!

I found these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-S-CYCLE-ONE-WAY-CHECK-VALVE-375-NYLON-PN-50-8122-/192138439939

[Ohio HD]

You can get them many places, these are the same item that S&S sells.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162363795317

Thanks!!

I found these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-S-CYCLE-ONE-WAY-CHECK-VALVE-375-NYLON-PN-50-8122-/192138439939

I guess you could pay more, and shipping for the S&S label.     

[08flstf]

I saw this on another forum so I'm not taking credit for the idea. I copied and pasted the text but for some reason it wouldn't copy and paste the accompanying diagram, but at least the part number is listed. Was wondering if this would be an alternative to venting the dipstick. If it would work it would be a cleaner looking venting system.




The twin cooled bikes have the plug on top of the transmission, reference #35. Why couldn't you buy the oil return fitting, reference #34 used on the oil cooled heads for $5.50 and vent the crankcase the same way as these dip stick vents do? The fitting is part number 62700146. I have not done this mod and not sure if it's practical but it looks interesting.

[PoorUB]

I might be wrong, but I don't believe the Twin Cooled have that port machine in the tranny housing. At least not the ones I have looked at.

[rigidthumper]

IDK- parts diagram on Roni's looks like some cases get a return line (#34), other cases get a plug (#35) , but they have the same part number for the case.

[08flstf]

I wish I could have copied and pasted the diagram but it looks like the case is the same on oil cooled or twin cooled. mine being twin cooled has the plug instead of the oil return fitting. If the case is the same wouldn't the people with twin cooled motors be able to replace that plug with the oil return fitting and run a vent hose off of that? That would make it look like it was that way from the factory.

[PoorUB]

I sure would like to know what you guys are looking at. I can not find a single parts breakdown with a #35 plug!

[rigidthumper]

62700150 plug, #30,  HERE at outpostalaska 
   

[PoorUB]

Thanks, I looked again on Ronnie's and found it too. Harley breaks up some of the parts drawings kinda weird, at least in my opinion!

One would think that would work as a second venting point.

[08flstf]

Go to this link and scroll to post #22.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwaukee-eight-m8/1278466-fueling-venting-dipstick.html

[roadcaptain]

I sure would like to know what you guys are looking at. I can not find a single parts breakdown with a #35 plug!

I am not able to attach a picture here but here is what he talking about:

HERE at Ronnies


[attach=0,msg1293305]

[08flstf]

I sure would like to know what you guys are looking at. I can not find a single parts breakdown with a #35 plug!

I am not able to attach a picture here but here is what he talking about:

HERE at Ronnies

Does it look like the oil return fitting in the above diagram (#34 in picture) would actually be long enough to be in the oil? It looks as though it's on about the same level as where the dipstick sits. Was wondering if you cut a portion of it off so it didn't stick too far down to be submerged in the oil if this wouldn't be a viable vent source. It would be bigger in diameter than the venting systems currently offered for the dipstick location so should be a good vent source, at least in my mind. I'm thinking about ordering this piece to try it, was hoping to get some more educated opinions on this than mine.

[roadcaptain]

Since this was designed as a return oil line the bottom of the fitting may go below the oil level. Since you want to use it as a vent then there should be no reason why you couldn't cut it shorter. There's not much room under the frame so it would make it easier to install if it were shorter.

[FSG]

Since this was designed as a return oil line the bottom of the fitting may go below the oil level. Since you want to use it as a vent then there should be no reason why you couldn't cut it shorter. There's not much room under the frame so it would make it easier to install if it were shorter.

sounds like a good idea to me, shorten it up regardless

[08flstf]

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to get one ordered and give it a try.

[metaliser]

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to get one ordered and give it a try.

I think this is a smart idea for sure but I'd really like to see proof that all this fuss over venting really is necessary, I mean does it really aid the sumping issue from not recurring. I'd like to see one on the dyno that sumped and then vent the engine and it not sump. Has anyone actually saw this ?

[FSG]

[roadcaptain]

That's a vent.