Unplugging Dyna Handlebar Wiring

[Rusticwater]

2010 FXDC

I want to unplug my handlebar switch wiring from the main harness so I can run it internally in a new set of handlebars.

Is there enough wiring on the main harness so that I should I be able to pull the handlebar wiring connectors out of the side access holes on the neck?

So far I've removed the rubber grommet on the right side of the neck and tried tugging the right handlebar switch buss but the connector barely comes up to the opening of the hole. I don't know if there is enough wire on the other side of the connector to allow it to come through the hole, or if the wire and/or connector is hung up on something. I haven't tried the left side yet.

[machinist]

you need to remove wire ties under the seat to get enough, then pull them back when your done

[Jim Bronson]

There's a "service loop" of cable under the seat at the rear of the backbone. You need to feed it forward and pull it through the grommet. It is much easier with a helper. I remember doing it by myself on my '05 Lowrider, and it was a real bear. I think I walked a total of about a half mile back and forth from the rear to the front.

[Rusticwater]

Thank you both for the replies. I did read something last night that implied the '05 and prior Dynas had this loop, I wasn't aware about the 2010 model.

I'll remove the seat and take a look. What's the likelihood I'll have to remove the tank as well? None of this was mentioned in the service manual or the isheet for the new handlebars...

[Hossamania]

Would you expect the handle bar manufacturer to advertise with "By the way, it is a pain in the ass to install these bars, it is not just a simple swap where everything lines up" ?
The most honest direction I've seen with a product was "Some modification may be necessary".
The service manual is written with the idea that strictly stock parts are used, no direction for using aftermarket parts or modifications.

[Rusticwater]

I appreciate the levity Hoss. But it's not about the bars, it's about accessing a connector.

[rant]
Yes, I do actually expect the Harley factory service manual purchased from the dealer to explain what's involved in just unplugging a connector, especially if taking half the bike apart is involved. That's why I purchased it to begin.

A year ago at this time I found myself pulling my primary (and clutch, compensator, seals etc.) a second time to replace the shifter shaft seal again because the FSM just said "Install a new seal."

It neglected to say "install seal to a depth of 0.125-0.135 in" and "Do not bottom the seal in the bore." But I found out the hard way and shared that experience here on the forum so others could learn and avoid the hassle.

Perhaps the manual should just say "join HTT because they have far more info than in this book..."
[/rant]

FWIW the Harley bars I'm installing are a new GMA20 offering (55801003) with "exactly" the same dimensions as what I have on the bike (56079-93T). Both are chrome mini-apes but the new ones are designed for internal wiring.

[kd]

If they are OEM bars there may be a Service Sheet for installation.

[Rusticwater]

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[Jim Bronson]

The whole reason for the service loop was to allow access to the connector inside the backbone. If they eliminated it in the 2010 models, it was a bonehead move. In that case, you will need to splice into the wires inside the grommet unless they relocated the connector. Ugh!

[rigidthumper]

See item 24? That's a plastic piece that covers the opening in the frame where the wire harness & connectors sit. You can remove the rubber ovals  (#10) and pull the wires out, do both sides gently until you see the connectors. Usually not necessary, but you can push in on the upper tabs on #24 to release it, lower it down,  and that will grant a little more access to the wires.

[Jim Bronson]

Apparently the 2010 is different than my 2005. In mine, the connector was maybe 12" inside the backbone measuring from the front. I had to feed the harness forward through the backbone until the connector was exposed. IIRC, there was a cable tie attached to the plug and wrapped around the cable to keep it from shifting. Hopefully it will be an easier job for you.

[14Frisco]

Pic from 2010 Dyna Models Electrical Diagnostic Manual

[dirty jim]

When I did the bars on my '15 FXDL I removed both frame plugs, pulled, tugged, and pushed and got plenty of wire. Hardest part was getting it back in!

[Rusticwater]

Thank you all for the advice.

It's now apparent that at the very least I'll have to move the gas tank, which I was not prepared to do and presents further complications. I've postponed the project to enjoy the fall foliage and what little of the riding season remains. In the meantime I'm rethinking the "wisdom" of messing with perfectly working wiring on a ten year old bike...

[dirty jim]

As an update, (I just remembered!) on the bottom of the frame backbone there is another plug you can reach in with out gas tank removal.