When I plugged in my Battery tender to the connector on the bike the red light kept blinking as if I didn't connect it. I then got a blinking red and green light which indicates a faulty connection or a bad battery. I am going to assume for now the 1 year old battery is good. I switched to another tender and I got the red blinking light. I hooked that one up direct to the battery with alligator clips and the red light burns steady as it should. When I test the pig tail connection on the bike, with a test light, it lights up bright. What am I missing here? It would appear that the plug on the bike is good and that plugging in to it should work. I recently used that plug for my heated jacket and it worked just fine.
Thanks, Stephen
First off, easy check, is the pigtail connected to the battery correctly?
The heated gear would still work if it was hooked up backwards.
:agree: Not much else it can be. Bad or reversed battery connection.
I am going to check it all again, but I doubt it's a reversed connection as it's been that way since 2014 and the charger always worked. I think one of the tenders is toast. It's acting goofy when I plug it in. The one that is on now is working with the alligator clips like it should. I have another connector so if I dig in and disconnect all the crap to get to the battery, I will replace it and see what gives.
Thank you for the prompt responses.
Stephen
The tender may be toast, but don't assume that the battery is good just because it is only a year old. Stranger things have happened.
double check the polarity of the pigtail. The bare connector should not have any voltage - only the shrouded connector.
You may have to wiggle the plug, mine is old and a bit stretched out, it doesn't always connect unless I wiggle it and give it a good push together. You may have to squeeze the barrel connector inside the plugs to tighten up the fit.
One other thing to try is to make sure your fuse is in fully, and there's no corrosion on the blades of the fuse. Another check would be to use a multi-meter and measure the voltage of your battery, thru the pigtail coming off the battery. It should be 12.5-12-7 volts, before the tender is attached,,,
OK new info coming in. So it worked for years, and now it doesn't. Take your pick: battery, fuse, first tender. Second tender works without the pigtail in the line, so both the battery and second tender are good. You tested the pigtail, so it can't be the fuse. Did you connect the first tender directly to the battery using alligator clips?
What is the make and model of this battery tender?
One test you can do to check if the battery tender is working, (disregarding that the lights are not doing what they should)..
Hook up battery tender to pigtail of bike with the power OFF.
Check voltage with multi meter at Battery. (Should be 12.5 - 12.7)..
With multi meter still attached to battery, turn ON power to tender... Voltage should increase to approx 13 - 14 volts.... Then when optimal voltage is achieved , (depending on how low the battery is), revert to trickle charge mode of approx 13 volts....
I've got 12.7 volts at the bikes connection, none on the exposed negative post. I think it's a deformed and I am going to replace it. It seems to be the common denominator with every thing I throw at it. The first battery tender which is model 021-0123, did not work when hooked up to the alligator clips. I did not check voltage with it hooked up, but it's now flickering pale green all the time. It is probably toast, I'll check it before I pitch it. The second tender is some sort of HD branded tender. It is now solid green indicating the battery is fully charged. I also hooked up a marine Attwood tender and it won't charge unless I use the clips. The common part is the plug on the bike. I'll change it out tomorrow.
Thanks all,
Stephen
I'm glad you got it sorted out. Mine is a Harley branded 750ma version. I use it continuously, and it hasn't skipped a beat in 14 years and three bikes.
I'm on my second one in 25 years, this one about five or six years old now.
Send that battery tender back to Deltran, they'll stand behind it if it's less than 10 years old.
Quote from: kd on November 18, 2019, 02:17:01 PM
What is the make and model of this battery tender?
The reason I asked is many folks discard the paper in the box they come in. I see you have a Delkron model 021-0123. Here's the instruction sheet if you don't have it.
FWIW I have 3 of them on my bikes and have on occasion had the same warning flashes show up. It has been the battery a couple of times and usually is the connection. I think I have even had to unplug one and let it rest then restart it once. In any event the trouble shooting section is pretty good if you don't have it. It''s way better than shooting from the hip.
http://products.batterytender.com/021-0123-man.pdf
BTW. As Deye76 says, there's a 10 year warranty on the Delkron tender you have. I expect you may need proof of purchase though. :crook:
Thank you Deye76, but this one is older than 10 years. Thank you kd for the online manual, always good to have on file.
So, the final fix was pretty easy and not so dramatic. I found another more recent model HD branded trickle charger that came with a used bike I bought in 2013. When I plugged it in it worked just fine. As I dug into the battery compartment I was reminded, by the lack of connections, that this bike (2014 FLHR) came with a charger plug. It likes the charger and the charger like it, so I am good again.
I never needed a charger because I rode enough to maintain a battery year round. My wife decided long ago that I need to use a charger, if you know what I mean.
Thanks to all, Stephen
Send it back even if out of warrenty. They will send you a new one for $20. I've had to do this several times over the years. I've had 3 or 4 go bad.
Maybe you know this but it makes a difference in the order you hook the wires up? If you plug the tender into the wall outlet before hooking the positive and negative cable to the battery, the charger won't work as expected. My tender must "see" power at the pos and neg cables before I plug it into the wall outlet.
PC
Quote from: Phu Cat on November 20, 2019, 09:00:04 AM
Maybe you know this but it makes a difference in the order you hook the wires up? If you plug the tender into the wall outlet before hooking the positive and negative cable to the battery, the charger won't work as expected. My tender must "see" power at the pos and neg cables before I plug it into the wall outlet.
PC
Mine does not have that issue.
Quote from: Phu Cat on November 20, 2019, 09:00:04 AM
Maybe you know this but it makes a difference in the order you hook the wires up? If you plug the tender into the wall outlet before hooking the positive and negative cable to the battery, the charger won't work as expected. My tender must "see" power at the pos and neg cables before I plug it into the wall outlet.
PC
I treat all my chargers like that....no spark generated.
It makes no difference which you hook up first. None at all. Spark is caused by sudden current/voltage shift, not how you connect it.
I bow to your knowledge Coyote but IIRC I have seen sparking (not a .75 amp charger) in my past. Could be mistaken...
X2 and I witnessed an explosion when the charger was connected live directly to the battery. It was not pretty and a real good safety lesson.
Quote from: fbn ent on November 20, 2019, 10:34:29 AM
I bow to your knowledge Coyote but IIRC I have seen sparking (not a .75 amp charger) in my past. Could be mistaken...
You misunderstand what I posted. Sparking occurs pretty much anytime you connect a charger but it's
not due to the order of connection (plus/minus).
Anytime you have a sudden change in voltage or current, a spark may occur. Remember, a transient voltage spike is defined by dI/dt (change in current/change in time). When you connect a charger, you have a charge current applied in a very small time (almost instantly). So a voltage spike will occur and you will get a voltage spike that is high enough to almost always cause a spark.
Sorry, having re-read this I think I'm the one that misunderstood. What I posted in correct but it has nothing to do with when you plug the charger in the wall.
Plugging the charger in after connecting the battery might eliminate the connection spark...IF your charger will allow it. Many will not.
My Tender will work either way. Never noticed a spark at the plug on the bike when connecting "hot".
Thanks to the OP for posting this up. Had a battery tender that was not charging just giving a flashing red light. After reading this thread gave the female portion of the connector a little pinch and all is well. :up:
Mine is permanently plugged into an outlet with a switch. I've never had a problem connecting it first, then switching it on. It is easier for me that way. I wish there were an icon for 'lazy.' :teeth:
Not perfectly related to the discussion, when i was working as a mechanic in a garage, one of the mechanics down the street had a car battery explode in his face when he was either connecting or disconnecting it. I was told at the time that the safest way to handle a battery is to disconnect the negative terminal first as if the wrench/pliers/whatever touched anything on the car, there would be no sparking. After the negative terminal is disconnected, then undo the positive as there won't be any sparks either because you don't have a complete circuit. When connecting a battery, do the positive first and then the negative for the same reasons - no sparking.
Have always lived by that rule and have never had a problem even though people do it wrong all the time and don't have a problem - but it only takes one spark and battery gas to ruin your day.
Quote from: Boe Cole on December 03, 2019, 02:00:01 PM
I was told at the time that the safest way to handle a battery is to disconnect the negative terminal first as if the wrench/pliers/whatever touched anything on the car, there would be no sparking. After the negative terminal is disconnected, then undo the positive as there won't be any sparks either because you don't have a complete circuit. When connecting a battery, do the positive first and then the negative for the same reasons - no sparking.
This is the way it SHOULD be done....
I had the misfortune of doing backwards once back in my youth... accidentally touched the wrench to metal while removing the Positive terminal 1st.... my ultra quick reactions, fueled by adrenaline and complete fear, broke the connection in a micro second...
I was amazed by the damage to the wrench and metal with only a micro second, direct short from a car battery.... That wa smy wake up call to how powerful 12v can be...
As I shared the story with friends, I one tell about how he saw a wrench almost weld itself to a piece of metal due to a 12v short..
I touched the big stainless ring on my left index finger to the wrench I was using to disconnect the positive cable from the battery (to replace the 30AMP breaker). :doh: Main Street Sturgis. In the split second it took to realize where the sparks were coming from it turned red hot. Must have been quite the sight me jumping around trying to get it off. Still have the scar. :slap:
I'm glad I've never done anything like that............... :embarrassed:
My wedding band fits snug between the positive post on my 76 FLH and the rear corner of the rear rocker box.
On the plus side it gets hot fast.
Just sayin'
Years ago, I ws a Snap-On tool dealer. I was in one of the stops on my route which happened to be a GMC truck dealer. The mechanic was unhooking one of the batteries (it had 4 batteries in a metal battery box) when he accidentally touched his wrench from the positive cable post to the battery box.
Next thing that happened was a very loud bang as the battery exploded spraying him with battery acid. There was nothing left of the battery except a small corner including the post still hanging from the cable. He was bleeding from his right eye, his nose & his mouth. His clothes where completely ruined. He spent the night in a local hospital even though he wasn't seriously hurt.
Now, I was standing maybe 4 feet away from him & didn't get a single drop on me.
~John
When I was in high school I worked at a Amoco, (Standard Oil), gas station that had a full service shop. One cold winter day I was out jump starting cars. We had a engine powered jump start that sat in the back of the truck. I don't remember the specs on it, but we would jump start semi trucks with it to so it cranked some serious juice. Anyway I was trying to get this car started and it was not going well. I leaned into the engine compartment to look at something and right then the battery exploded. I may have bumped the jumper cable, don't know for sure. The top of the battery nailed me right in the forehead and I ended on my back on the ground. It was like getting a good punch in the head from some really big dude. I remember taking off my stocking cap and jacket as I was soaked in battery acid. I wiped my face off with snow then went into the customer's home, (he was standing right there when it happened), and got washed up with some water and backing soda. Needless to say I didn't get the car started until later with a new battery. My cap and jacket were pretty much done for, full of holes after a good wash. I had some minor acid burn on my face, looked like a sunburn for a few days, but no serious injuries. I was probably lucky I was wearing prescription glasses.
Quote from: Hossamania on December 14, 2019, 09:38:02 AM
I'm glad I've never done anything like that............... :embarrassed:
:bike: :hyst:
did you happen to Start the Bike with it on the Tender ? I did that ONCE :emoGroan:
Quote from: 72fl on December 24, 2019, 05:22:17 AM
did you happen to Start the Bike with it on the Tender ? I did that ONCE :emoGroan:
So have I, it did unplug when I took off and fortunately didn't hurt anything. :oops:
All this reminds of the guy I saw trying to hook up a battery charger to an old positive ground Mack truck. He couldn't figure out why sparks went flying and the charger would shut down.
When I lived in Tucson I was working on the battery on 71 F250 and got an expandable watch band between battery + and ground...melted the band into my wrist in a millisecond...ouch...got my freaking attention
I usually tape up my wrenches and screwdrivers when working around power and batteries.
No rings or watches when working. No rolled up pant cuffs when grinding or welding. No ties or loose clothing when working around moving equipment.
Of course, these haven't always been the rules I followed. Gaining knowledge is expensive and painful sometimes...
Indeed..... :doh:
Quote from: thumpr54 on December 24, 2019, 09:51:40 AM
When I lived in Tucson I was working on the battery on 71 F250 and got an expandable watch band between battery + and ground...melted the band into my wrist in a millisecond...ouch...got my freaking attention
:crook: Wellll ..... I wasn't going to admit to this but the very same thing happened to me in High School auto shop. We had engines on stands that we worked on and would run them after. The shop teacher used to say "All jewelry off lads". Well watches aren't jewelry are they? He laughed like crazy at me and thanked me for the class safety demonstration. :dgust: It's 53 years later and I look at that scar and think of him laughing. I don't suppose he figured out who locked him in the tool crib and why until I told him about 5 years ago. :hyst: :hyst:
Back to the topic of Tenders, I have an ATV that hasn't been run since last winter, the battery is about 4 or 5 years old, the battery wasn't dead, but it wasn't charged either, no start of course. I put the Tender on it, it went to green overnight, but still didn't quite have enough juice to turn over cold oil, cold motor. I put my 50amp charger on it and got it running, took it for a ten minute ride, it didn't really want to start when I got back, so I put the Tender back on overnight. Again went to green, again didn't want to start, I figured new battery time.
But, I have a unit called a BatteryMinder Plus, looks like a Tender Junior, it has a maintenance button on it, it is supposed to bring dead batteries back to life, I think by going into a prolonged de-sulphate mode. In the past I've had varying degrees of success with it, hadn't used it in years. I figured what the hell, give it a try. I left it on for a day and a half, just went out to give it a try, and it fired right off. I'm not sure the battery will last much longer anyway, but the Minder did what it was supposed to do for now.
Just wanted to pass on the info about the BatteryMinder. I learned about it from a co-worker who used it on his mother's old dead car battery and said it worked for him, so passing it on here.
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Quote from: PoorUB on December 23, 2019, 04:05:21 PM
When I was in high school I worked at a Amoco, (Standard Oil), gas station that had a full service shop. One cold winter day I was out jump starting cars. We had a engine powered jump start that sat in the back of the truck. I don't remember the specs on it, but we would jump start semi trucks with it to so it cranked some serious juice. Anyway I was trying to get this car started and it was not going well. I leaned into the engine compartment to look at something and right then the battery exploded. I may have bumped the jumper cable, don't know for sure. The top of the battery nailed me right in the forehead and I ended on my back on the ground. It was like getting a good punch in the head from some really big dude. I remember taking off my stocking cap and jacket as I was soaked in battery acid. I wiped my face off with snow then went into the customer's home, (he was standing right there when it happened), and got washed up with some water and backing soda. Needless to say I didn't get the car started until later with a new battery. My cap and jacket were pretty much done for, full of holes after a good wash. I had some minor acid burn on my face, looked like a sunburn for a few days, but no serious injuries. I was probably lucky I was wearing prescription glasses.
I had a battery explode on me when I worked for GM many years ago and the acid got in my eyes , flushed them with water for several minuets and lucky no loss of eye sight or damage . Lucky I guess but I have not forgot the experience . There is a reason to land the jumper cable on the negative on the last connection on the engine I think to minimize the change of causing a explosion of the hydrogen gas of the battery . That was a long time ago when safety was not as important as it is today thank goodness lol
1967 Yamaha 100 model YL2/C battery test procedure:
Assemble screwdriver from included tool kit.
Remove side cover exposing battery.
Bridge positive terminal of battery to frame & check for spark
Lay patiently on your back while parent pours a gallon or so of Canada Dry ginger ale in your eyes
Ride as passenger in Rambler American to local army base, blow through guard station & screech to a stop in front of hospital, get dragged inside
If you can still see at this point, battery was defective
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on December 24, 2019, 07:47:08 PM
1967 Yamaha 100 model YL2/C battery test procedure:
Assemble screwdriver from included tool kit.
Remove side cover exposing battery.
Bridge positive terminal of battery to frame & check for spark
Lay patiently on your back while parent pours a gallon or so of Canada Dry ginger ale in your eyes
Ride as passenger in Rambler American to local army base, blow through guard station & screech to a stop in front of hospital, get dragged inside
If you can still see at this point, battery was defective
Lol damn I need a beer lol
Going from mech / millwright to parts man ....long story .....I have many batteries go pop on me . I don't care how big or how small I respect them all