Correct Clutch Spring Tension

[eglideic]

 I'm helping a friend put in a new clutch in his 1978 Lowrider.
Many years ago when he had the clutch done the mechanic put in a custom aluminum Pressure disc as pictured.  He has since died and the shop is closed. I don't know the correct spring tension adjustment for it. It is a LOT different than the stock plate as shown in the other picture.  J&P still sells this part (10-055) but the guy on their tech line said he couldn't help me.
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[capn]

If it has a kicker tighten springs till it stops slipping when you kick it.If it has no kicker you can do the same with the rear wheel. If it does not slip while kicking you are good to go.

[eglideic]

If it has a kicker tighten springs till it stops slipping when you kick it.If it has no kicker you can do the same with the rear wheel. If it does not slip while kicking you are good to go.

I hate doing things like that. I like exact measurements. Thanks though. If I can't get an exact measurement as Harley gives for the stock plate, I'll just toss out that custom plate and put in a stock Harley plate.

[guppymech]

Here's a pic of the spring tension adjustment from when H-D sold that plate.

[eglideic]

Here's a pic of the spring tension adjustment from when H-D sold that plate.

I see 1 3/8" outside to outside.

[Ohio HD]

If my memory serves me, the distance from the inside of the OEM spring retainer lip to the pressure plate was 0.625". Basically you can adjust till the clutch holds, and as long as you don't bind the springs.

You can call Tedd Cycle and ask them to email you the instructions for 20-0332.

[JW113]

I think your memory is good, Ohio. I use a 7/16" bolt (which is 5/8" across the flats) to adjust the springs. I put the head of the bolt between pressure plate and release disk at each of the three adjustment studs until the head will "just" fit in between. Seems to hold fine, and any tighter than that, the clutch lever gets hard to pull.

-JW