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I wonder if the 2 over cartridges still lose the same 3/4 in sag? 
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EVO 1340 / Re: Oil for 1995 EVO
« Last post by Burnout on Today at 09:04:28 AM »
Thanks KD and that bring to light another aspect of the HD motor design.

Our motors are not so much air cooled as they are Oil Cooled. A very large part of the oil's job in a Harley motor is to carry off the heat.

And this is why I swear by an oil cooler on every HD. And if you read between the lines in the manual this is the way you can run 20-50 oil on 100 days.
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General / Re: Touring Shocks
« Last post by turboprop on Today at 08:43:18 AM »
Might as well be a discussion about the best oil. <rolls eyes>  The real answer is the best is whatever anyone that responds has. I don't know anyone that doesn't have 'the best' and thinks that you should have the same as them.

Those el cheapo Bitubo's for $450 are made in Australia and are an older Koni design that Bitubo bought the rights to.

The very expensive shocks I put on my '12 RG just plain sucked <rolls eyes>. So not everyone says they have the best.  :wink:

Yep, have done that too. Made the mistake early on of listening to the chorus of online experts that were simply repeating what they heard others say. Wont do that again. I still have those very expensive shocks on a shelf. Eventually someone I dont like will buy a bike that they fit and I will make them 'a deal'.
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this all started after frontend parts and shocks ? try 12" shocks

Kind of defeats the purpose of installing expensive good shocks to improve ride quality.

RWD almost never recommends their 12" shocks, and I agree with you Hoss, I don't want to give up the ride quality that the 13" shocks afford.

I'd rather sacrifice the Axeo cartridges than the RWD rear shocks.
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EVO 1340 / Re: Oil for 1995 EVO
« Last post by kd on Today at 07:57:14 AM »
 :agree:  I would add that I consider oil also worn out due to contamination.  That is why I use a complete oil change method (Rogue Scavenger system) each time to get that extra duration without remaining contaminates. I will also add that good Syn oil is proven to be much more durable under heat or overheating conditions with a much higher tolerance and shear quality. 

Finally, for those nay sayers here's a test for you.  Take a plate of steel and put a drop of dyno oil on one side and a drop of good syn a few inches away.  Take a torch and heat the area in the center hard.  The dyno oil will run away from the heat and the syn will go toward it.   Think about that next time you complain about the heat off your engine.  :wink: 
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EVO 1340 / Re: Oil for 1995 EVO
« Last post by Burnout on Today at 07:10:26 AM »
I hate to comment about religious topics, but...       :gob:

"Many "experts" claimed that the synthetic would cause leaks at gasket surfaces on Evo's."

This is total BS, this is nothing but pure FUD.

It has been proven many times over that there are advantages to synthetic oils, early on in the game the synth guys made some bad calls and there were some less than stellar results. But years later now this argument really has no place in a non-fiction environment.

Here is my take.
A HD motor is a big air cooled motor and as such is a pretty dirty design. Large internal clearances, and operating in a broad band or temps. Also many of our machines see many short hops, there are as many that are rode with a very happy throttle hand. This puts HDs squarley in the Extreme Operating Zone which requires more frequent oil changes. In this case the motor pollutes the oil faster than the oil wears out, the more frequent changes are needed to get rid of the nasty oil.

Given this the HD motor does not lend itself to extended oil change intervals, Synth oil is not self cleaning.
You could take advantage of extended service intervals if you are traveling cross country, short hops and cold starts are reduced moving you away from the Extreme Service Zone and open the door to advantages of synth.

This opinion addresses only the financial and practical aspects of using synth, there are other reasons to consider synth oil, I am not a chemical engineer just a Mechanic so I'll leave that to others.

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this all started after frontend parts and shocks ? try 12" shocks

Kind of defeats the purpose of installing expensive good shocks to improve ride quality.
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this all started after frontend parts and shocks ? try 12" shocks
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You got 80000 on the bike and haven't replaced the swingarm bushings and rubber donuts?  Big weak point is the pivot shaft to tranny fit. Find someone to tighten that up for you.

Some tires like C2s and Avons will square up and screw up handling if they are over 1/2 worn out.

I was under the impression that the swingarm components on 2009+ bikes aren't as susceptible to wear as the older bike since they have spherical bearings now, but an indy mechanic I've had work on my bike suggested that I should check for play in the swingarm to rule it out. While he said it's unlikely this is a root cause, it's not out of the question. I'm also going to have him replace the wheel bearings next week - also just to rule those out.

Tires are Dunlop AE's - less than 10k on them so they haven't squared off to the point where you get that "teeter" when cornering and riding the line between the flat spot on the tire and the sidewall - I have experienced that before so once that starts happening (I pretty much just run AE's) I usually start thinking about new tires.
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1" longer fork tubes would be the safest thing to do.
Can you get away with increasing the fork preload with longer spacers?
If you go for making an extension that screws into the top of the fork tube then you have effectively taken your half way decent triple tree design back to how it was up to 2007 or so. I have just spent about $1000 fitting the kit to drag the triple tree on my 1999 bike up to the same standard as yours! Noticeably better too.

Meanwhile... FLs have so much trail you can reduce it by a couple of inches before you get into what is considered the 'normal' range for other bikes!

The 'feel' is important too, if it feels twitchy to you it is not fun.
I had a go on a Buell when they came out, couldn't get on with the twitchy sportbike steering. Didn't buy one.

With the Legends Axeo cartridges, you really can't add fork tube length, unless you get their +2 cartridge (they don't have a +1)- the standard length cartridge I got is designed for standard length tubes, but with their built-in sag, it just lowers the whole front end by 3/4" extra below stock.

Preload is only adjustable with a threaded collar - which I suppose I could increase the preload some more, but I think that would then make the front end ride quality unbearable and I'm not sure if it would even really affect the sag - these cartridges are quite firm, pretty jarring over small bumps and are just on the edge of being acceptable for day to day riding at the lowest preload setting for my weight.
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