Just got a 82 Shovelhead FLH. This bike was put together from the frame up and has only 150 miles on it. I need advice on routine maintenance and I don't have an owners manual. First, what would you use for the 4 speed transmission fluid? Everything I've looked up says 75W, or 80W-90 gear oil. Is this a good choice? Here's my biggest question, the oil change. I know the Shovelhead runs a dry sump system. What's the best oil to run in this engine? I've read SAE 60 in hot weather and SAE 50 in cold. Is this a good choice? How many quarts should this bike hold? This bike is kickstart only too. The only place to put oil in it is in the oil tank under the seat. The tank for some reason has no drain plug in the tank, so the only way to drain the oil is to take off the supply line to the crankcase and let it drain out the hose. I'm, assuming anyway,unless someone tells me different, as I don't see any drain plug in the engine itself.Once again, how much oil should this engine/tank hold, as it doesn't seem like very much oil to supply the engine, once you fill just the tank up. Also, the tank has no dipstick and I read that you want to fill it up to within 1 1/2 inches of the bottom cap threads. What about the remaining used oil that is left in the engine, once the tank under the seat is drained.How can you remove the used oil? It has a spin on oil filter located on the left side frame, by the rear tire. I know I've asked alot of questions for a first post, but I'd appreciate any advice and help I can get. Thanks everyone.
4 +/- quarts in the oil bag.
Red Line Shockproof in the gearbox
50W(Spectro is a good choice) in the engine.
Do the bike a favor , buy a factory HD Service Manual
I run 60W "Racing" oil year round, I understand that the racing oils have additives in them such as zinc that the air cooled motors like. And the same in the trans but I fortify it with about 30% Lucas Oil Treatment. I'm a little old school and I know a lot of people run it but I think Synthetic oil is too "slick" for the old tech. :gob:
Doesn't sound like a stock shovel. A stock oil tank would have a drain at the rear left side of the oil tank right above the primary case. Aftermarket oil tank could have a drain hose on the bottom of the tank like a softail. The best oil for a shovel is clean oil...
I run Valvoline VR1 20w50 in the engine as there is no drawbacks to having it flow better when the engine is cold and it will still be a 50w when hot. The factory says to use engine oil in the trans. I use a 80w90 gear oil in the trans as you want the lube to be able to get into the needle bearings. My bike is kick start only and when it's 40 deg out it's hard enough to kick with the 20w50 engine oil much less a straight weight.
It's definately not a stock Shovelhead. I'ts actually a bobber. The oil tank is an Arlan Ness and it has no drain plug, just the supply and return hoses. It only holds about 1 1/2 quarts of oil in the tank and their's no way that's enough oil for that engine, in my opinion. I see no other place that oil can be drained out of this engine.
With the extended oil lines and filter, you probably have another 1/2 quart or more oil in the system. The motor doesn't really hold much oil since it is a dry sump system, it all gets pumped back to the tank.
All you can do is change oil the best you can and keep track of how much goes back in to fill it.
Custom bikes are often form over function, so that pretty oil tank might not be an ideal performer.
Congratulations on the new bike! Would help a bunch to snap some pictures so we all have the same point of reference.
Kicker only, so not an FLH per se. At least not now. Bobber, i.e. bar hopper. OK, cool.
2 qts of oil is fine for short trips/bar hopping. Just means you need to check it A LOT. Like before every ride. And on really hot days, beware.
Oil: bobbed and 2qt oil tank, I don't think it matters much, as it sounds like a short distance machine and not going to stack up a whole lot of miles over the life of it. Since it's kick only, might as well make it a little easier to kick by using a quality 20W-50 oil like Castrol GTX. Which is pretty much all I use in everything these days.
Ditto HBKeith: GET A MANUAL. Being a Shovelhead, you will get plenty of use from it. Shovelheads, unlike the bikes they sell today, required you to be a bit of a mechanic to own & maintain, lots of hands-on. Part of the charm of old motorcycles, yes?
Good luck, and send some pix!
-JW
What JW said. :up: :up:
:agree: with all above. You may want to consider an oil cooler - help with the heat and holds a little more earl.
And ya - pictures!!!
Don't care for the shockproof in the trans, drained mine and saw a lot of separation. A lighter type gear oil, 75-140 etc. is fine. I also use Castrol GTX 20-50 in my shovel. If you have an engine "crash bar" guard people have added plumbing to the bar, using it's interior connected to the oil system and increased their oil capacity. A lot of good advice given. Good luck, Frank
Tried posting pictures, but it says my files are to big.
Right click on picture --> "Open With" ---> "Microsoft Office"
"Picture" --> "Compress Pictures..."
[attach=0]
"Compress for" --> "Web Pages"
[attach=1]
Then "OK" at the bottom of the dialog box.
Then SAVE AS, give a new name like orig-compressed or something. DO NOT click SAVE, it will over-write your original picture.
So get to it. I really want to see it now.
:SM:
-JW
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Tried to get the pics in one post, but wasn't sure how to do it.
NICE!
Hard tail, all righty then! And looks like a Paughco narrow front end? And the reverse dome treatment to the tank, very cool indeed.
I think I can say with confidence, that's a bar hopper! I would not worry a whole lot about the oil other than making sure it has some in it.
:SM:
thanks for the pix,
JW
I agree with JW, Nice Blaster!
You are not likely to be running that at 75-80 loaded down on the highway all day long. (puts on flame suit before CraigArizona shows up :teeth: ) Keep clean 20-50 or if that rattles straight 50 in it and enjoy. For the Trans I'm still a shockproof believer but any quality gear lube will do fine.
If you want to pump all the old oil out look up Shovelhead 5 quart oil change. Basically you drain the old oil, disconnect the return to tank line and point it into a container, start the engine and pour clean oil into the tank until it comes back clean out of your return line.
Do you know if the primary is still passing the motor oil thru it or has it been isolated from the mill?
Yeah, she's for sure no highway cruiser and that springer front end and hard tail is hard on the back. Old school for sure and definitely not as comfortable as my Superglide custom. She'll shake the feelings out of your teeth on these old country roads too, but it's still a fun bike to ride around town. It's only got about 120 miles on it, but I want to change the fluids after having it stored for the winter, then after about 500 miles, I'll change her again, since that should have the engine broke in fairly well. I think I'm gonna run SAE 50 in it, because its got a slight rattle, but some things made need adjusted and tweaked after some miles are put on it. Where's the best place to find SAE 50, because I looked at Walmart and didn't see any. Also, any particular brand you like? I think I may use valvoline high performance 80W-90 gear oil for the tranny, as it's pretty much in every store and I've used it for a long time, with good results on other things. I had already watched the shovelhead 5 quart oil change and I think that's what I'll do to flush it. Thanks for the advice everyone and keep the ideas coming. :teeth:
Try an independent motorcycle shop for the oil, or a tractor supply shop. I found Amsoil at an implement dealer one time when I was on the road.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try those places. Its got a Rivera Primo belt drive on it. I like the open belt, because I've had my pants chewed up plenty of times riding other bikes, but I'm teaching my fiance to ride it and she was afraid of the open belt. I put a belt guard on it and that sucker wasn't easy to find. It took a lot of searching and phone calls. :up:
Since the oil filter has been mounted by the rear tire, off of the frame, it looks as if the easiest way to flush the little bit of dirty oil, would be to run the bike with the filter off, keeping the oil tank full, until she spits out clean oil and then top it off. Seems easiest, unless somebody has a better idea? Thanks again for all the input.
Well since we're on the subject...
Yes one way to drain the oil with a tank that has no drain is to pull a hose or oil filter and let the motor piss it out. BTDT, so can't say don't do that. But one other possibility is to go buy one of them Vac-U-Suck hand pumps. I've been thinking about getting one to change the oil in my car that way, cause these old bones absolutely HATES jacking up the car and crawling under to get that oil drain plug out. In fact, that's how these quick change oil joints do it, but with a motorized version. Slide the tube down the dip stick hole, and suck away.
Sounds kind of perverted, doesn't it?
50WT oil: you can find it at the <holding my nose here> Harley Davidson dealership. If you have one nearby, that is. NAPA also usually has it. Although sadly, those are becoming harder and harder to find.
And since askin' is free....
How about you snap a few more pics of that beast? Like some close ups of all the interesting details? You have a pretty sweet ride there, would love to see a little more of it. Looks like an S&S E on it. Any idea what cam? And is it a 80 cube? I imagine pretty fun to ride. GooooBah!!
thanks,
JW
Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on March 15, 2018, 09:18:29 AM
If you want to pump all the old oil out look up Shovelhead 5 quart oil change. Basically you drain the old oil, disconnect the return to tank line and point it into a container, start the engine and pour clean oil into the tank until it comes back clean out of your return line.
:up:
It's got a S & S Super E Shorty on it. It was re-jetted bigger, because it dogged out toward the upper end and it needed baffles put in the straight pipes, to give it enough back pressure to tune in decent. I'm not sure of the cam, but it is a 80 cube, 1340 cc. Still trying to get the carb dialed in better. I run it and then pull the plugs to see if it's running rich or lean. I haven't hit that sweet spot yet. I am running NGK plugs in it. It calls to be gapped at .040, but following some advice, I gapped them at .032 and it seems to hit a lot better and the plugs are looking more of the black?gray that I'm trying for. I'll try to get some better outside pics this weekend, but we have freezing rain coming in this evening. Yahoo, gotta love this weather. :emoGroan:
Nice chopper. Be careful of those plastic B&S fuel valves(made in china), they have been known to pop apart and yours is right above the exhaust. Something I was self educated on years ago. What a rush. Dirty