Changing out the stator and having a real problem with the compensator nut. I have the sprocket jammed so it won't move. Applied a full bottle of propane heat to the nut and with an electric impact gun it won't budge (lefty loosey). I now have a johnson bar on the socket with a long pipe for leverage and still no go. Is it possible I can break something on the bike if I really go too far with the Johnson bar/pipe ?
you have to try and heat just the nut fast, so it expands on the threads on the shaft.......... I doubt your getting enough heat to expand just the nut your probably heating the shaft and nut with the propane so they are both expanding........ oxy acetylene is best .
The electric impact is probably only in the 90 foot pound range not enough
let it cool down before trying to heat the nut again .
good luck
egc
I'm thinking of trailering the bike to an auto shop with a big compressor and torch to remove the nut. I'm just stripping it in frustration!!
don't use a twelve point socket. use six. work it back and forth. all after heating of coarse.
As a side note, I have had rather poor luck with electric impact tools. I know others love them, and claim they are the best, but I've had to use a good air impact instead a few times, and it always worked when the electric one didn't. I traded my electric impact (Craftsman Pro) away to a buddy for some parts. I bet if you could get a good air powered impact wrench, and a solid 6 point socket, it'll come off.
Garry
I'm using a 6 pt socket and agree an air impact gun has a lot more power, although the electric impact serves me well, except for this nut!!
I don't think expanding the nut is what the heat is for. You need the heat to melt the LocTite. So much heat that you stop just before the nut turns blue. I don't think propane will do that.
Just me, but I wouldn't use an impact on the compensator nut as it could vibrate the magnets loose in the rotor. I've always used a long hollow pipe over a breaker bar and the sum' a biotch always broke free.
naptha might work. you definitely need air impact or cheater pipe to get it started. persistance will win out. you really can't hurt anything but yourself with a big ole cheater pipe on a breaker bar. have a friend hold everything up tight on nut while you jump on it.
I know a lot use heat and impact. The method I've found that works every time regardless of how tight the comp nut is, is to use torque and shock.
If the comp nut is really tight you might need a friend to help. Get a two foot pipe and put it on the end of a breaker bar. Have the friend sit on a chair and put his foot against the back of the breaker bar and socket to keep it from accidentally coming off the comp nut. He does not have to push hard...just assurance to not slip off.
While applying LOTS of torque on the comp nut, wrap the side of the socket (as close to the nut as possibe) with a brass hammer. Repeadedly wrap (not pound!) with the brass hammer while continuing to apply LOTS of torque, sending shock waves into the threads. The comp nut will eventually give way and let loose. Ain't a comp nut I can't remove with this method...without heat and without rattling the sprocket shaft bearing.
This same method works for a tranny pulley nut that's stubborn.
Quote from: bigblock6912 on August 04, 2009, 07:01:19 PM
you really can't hurt anything but yourself with a big ole cheater pipe on a breaker bar. have a friend hold everything up tight on nut while you jump on it.
That's what finally got the stubborn nut off my shovel - damn thing broke my 1/2" breaker bar, had to get 3/4" and a 4ft length of pipe. Instead of jumping on it I put the pipe on my shoulder and drove it forward like I was pushing a tackling dummy while my bud held both brakes and made sure I didn't tip bike over. Took like an hour including rest breaks and I did hurt myself (bar dug into my shoulder and I strained my a$$ cheek) but it did come off.
BTW elec impact did nothing for me either. If you can't get access to an air gun powerful enough to zip it right off don't bother with impacts. Also tried heating it trying to melt the gobs of loctite I imagined was in there but when it finally came off there was no sign of ANY loctite.
Someone else said persistence - that's the key. Good luck, you'll get it off if you keep at it.
One of the good tricks is to shorten and square up the socket for a perfect fit.
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww119/cvofb/Socket_for_comp_nutSmall.jpg)
In my garage I use a cheater bar but also use the overhead beams, the slab and the hydraulic power of the lift to do the grunt work for me.
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww119/cvofb/FSG_Garage_2.jpg)
I don't remember whose pic this is but he made a floor standing brace to assist, a good idea IMO
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww119/cvofb/Torque_BraceSmall.jpg)
One day I'll find a Swench Impact Tool in a 2nd hand tool store and give it a go
(http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww119/cvofb/Swench_Impact_ToolSmall.jpg)
Yep what Garfield said is best advice for the socket. I use the softer, black impact socket (mine is from Matco) that I squared off in a lathe. I use a 600 ft lbs 1/2" drive air impact. I can take these off with a cheater also. The trouble is not being able to hold the shaft solid as all primary chain blocks have slack that I have seen. Heat the nut until the loctite smokes and you are done there and ready to remove it. Hold the socket and and apply hand pressure or is it torque by hand in the direction to remove it to minimize the impact battering the rotor and magnets. I have never had a magnet problem like this.
L-
Breaker bar, socket, 4 ft section of 1" black pipe as a lever. Make sure the bike is strapped down.
Dumb question? Did anyone mention reverse threaded?
Quote from: Ridetard on August 05, 2009, 04:12:00 AM
Breaker bar, socket, 4 ft section of 1" black pipe as a lever. Make sure the bike is strapped down.
Dumb question? Did anyone mention reverse threaded?
It's standard nut on the comensator: lefty loosey, righty tighty.
I had one I cound not get off with nothing I tried. Took bike to a buddy's that works on skidders, one inch impact worked real quick. All he had to do was bump the trigger and nut was off....
3 of us tried this morning, one holding the bike, one holding the socket on tight and one on a 6" breaker bar - no go !!
Said to hell with it, and took it to a local tire shop that does transport truck tires. One zap with an BIG impact gun and it was off. Sometimes its just easier to take the lazy route!!
Quote from: gaillarry on August 05, 2009, 08:32:06 AM
3 of us tried this morning, one holding the bike, one holding the socket on tight and one on a 6" breaker bar - no go !!
Said to hell with it, and took it to a local tire shop that does transport truck tires. One zap with an BIG impact gun and it was off. Sometimes its just easier to take the lazy route!!
But did you wrap the socket with the brass hammer like I mentioned? If not, then sorry I was not there to help you guys out. I'd have gotten that comp nut off in a jiffy.
But did you wrap the socket with the brass hammer like I mentioned? If not, then sorry I was not there to help you guys out. I'd have gotten that comp nut off in a jiffy.
[/quote]
Sure did and even bought a brass hammer, it had no affect on the nut.
Wow. I stand corrected. Thanks for letting me know this, as I've not experienced this before.
My bet is that the person that put it on last time loaded it up with red, more than needed...
I've even had my air wrench not turn one off, it's a function of power and pressure.
I have a metal pipe from Lowes 4 ft long, goes over the 3/4 drive wrench, it's always worked.....
I have had to heat it from time to time... using that jell red, just seems that too much of a good thing... LOL
Then again I'd prefer to have to work to get that nut off vs having it back off...
Found no signs of loctite on the shaft or nut, but I did find why the electrical system was screwed up. I suspect this was the original stator.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gaillarry/Stator004.jpg)
Hotrodroadking, I've always been able to get comp nuts off with torque and shock method even when there was a gallon of red loctite put on the comp nut. This is why I'm set back as to why it didn't work this time. I'm with you that I'd rather have it installed not to come off and allow me to struggle to get it off, rather than it backing out on it's own. Again, I've never had problems with torque and shock even when there was soooo much loctite that I've had to use the pipe on the breaker bar to continue to turn the comp nut off LONG after breaking it loose.
Yep same here,
Funny that several Canadians together couldn't get it off LOL sorry I shouldn't temp international scorn LOL
My size (weight) helps using a longer bar helps, I use the constant pressure method, just keep on pressing until it pops....
I"ve had one I couldn't break loose with my impact or big arse... but that was a long time ago and I had a 2 foot breaker bar, now with the 4 foot one, it's a snap each time...
*momentary thread hijack alert*
GLAD to see yall get her loose! Sure does remind me of removing an original wheel cylinder from a '64 Chevy Bel air back in the day...............2 days and a 2ft, then 4ft, then SIX foot pipe and about a half a can of WD-40 later..................
Back to our regularly scheduled HTT..............