What is the average life of a h-d battery.Are the amp meters pretty actuate mine is reading 14-16 volts when running.IS there a better battery out there.I was tolled that when it over reads it probably going bad it cranks but seems a little weak THANKS Mike
..the decker battery..in my flht..went 7 years..it never let me down..but it was getting a little lazy on start up..so I replaced it....made a nice difference..14 to 16 volts is what mine allways reads..the old battery I now use to power a 12 volt trouble light and an old tape deck in the shop..
My back up is one I got at a swap meet for $20. Guy said it was still in perfect shape and he was just feelin like he was courtin disaster. The date code is for 2000.
I do believe in the H line of batteries as being worth the extra dough.
Craig
I bought a yusa battery for a roadking a couple years ago and it was a great battery. But on these batteries and some other brands you have to use a spacer to get the cable out flush with the side of the battery. Seems like I was always having trouble with a loose battery terminal. I think yusa makes a great battery I would go with the harley one just because of the way the terminals are made.
Almost all motorcycle batteries are Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VLRA) batteries with a nominal voltage of 2.06 VDC per cell when fully charged but not being charged. Six cells at 2.06 VDC/cell is a voltage of 12.36 VDC. Nominal float voltage for a VLRA battery is 2.25 VDC/cell or 13.5 VDC at float. Equalize charge is nominally 2.38 VDC/cell or 14.28 VDC for the battery. So when you first turn the ignition to the on position on your bike, the volt meter should read about 12.3 to 12.4 VDC, after you've been riding awhile it should read about 13.5 VDC and if it's charging it should read 14.2 to 14.3 VDC.
I don't know about your battery voltmeter but mine can be read to the closest 0.5 VDC. Use a digital multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery terminals if you want accuracy.
Standard battery industry literature gives these type of batteries a lifetime of 5-7 years. Some last longer, some die earlier.
Hope this helps
I Got 5 years on the first battery on my Fat Boy. Wasn't dead then, but was definately having a hard time starting.
C
My 2000's was 5 years old with 52k on it when I replaced it out of paranoia. Today, it still passes a load test. The HD replacement I bought is now 5 years old and still going strong. No tender used , either.
I have a `97 Fatboy, the original battery lasted for 12 years, never let me down once. Last year it began to get sluggish on cold start up so, i replaced it with another genuine HD sealed battery with the same part number as the original. I hope it lasts as long. I kept the original one as a slave battery, keep her on the tender just in case.......
I replace mine every two years which is about 15,000 miles. I don't like to be stranded with a dead battery.
I replaced mine in my Ultra after about 7 years just because I thought it might be time.
It cost me $48.00 for a factory second. Been running it for 2 years now.
02 Fatboy, still has original battery. Starting to get a slow on start up though. Keep a good tender on it.
7 years on the first, and probably would have gone further had the stator not taken out the voltage regulator, and the battery too.
It may be that using battery tender also helps extend battery life for bikes that have winter layovers.
I ran mine for 5 years when I had my Heritage. Got to thinking it was probably used up so I replaced it. Gave it to a buddy of mine, and he got 2 more years out of it!
Quote from: Snorth on February 16, 2010, 06:03:33 AM
I don't know about your battery voltmeter but mine can be read to the closest 0.5 VDC. Use a digital multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery terminals if you want accuracy.
That was all great information. I'd just caution the readers about the phrase I quoted, though, because some of the more "cost-effective" DVOMs might not read much more accurately than the dash gauge.
The dash gauge has so much electrical dampening in it, it's hard to figure out how to read. When I turn my ignition ON, the voltmeter rises to 10 volts . . . . never more than 11 volts. I'v put my Fluke on the voltmeter's terminals and read 12.3 volts under the same conditions. There is some voltage drop in the wiring that goes back and forth from the battery/fuse panel to the instruments.
When the motor is started, the HD meter rises on up to 14.3 or so and the Fluke somewhat agrees.
I never understood why it reads so low when the ignition is turned ON.
I replace mine every 2-3 years, both the Evo Road King and the Ultra. The genuine HD batteries are my first choice because they seem well made, and they fit right. I've also had very good luck with them.
I wouldn't rely on the dash gauge. I load test my batteries by putting them in the bike and starting the bike with a voltmeter hooked to the terminals. If it drops below 10 volts while cranking, it's a goner. If it drops to between 10 and 11 volts while cranking, then I put it on the short list, replace in the spring if it's in the fall, or at the beginning of the season, I'll replace as soon as practical.
When the motor starts cranking slower, you're heating up the starter more which will shorten starter life. Batteries are cheaper and easier to replace than starter motors.
On the Panhead, I used leftover batteries from my friend's Evo Sportster and use a shim to take up the slack. An older battery works fine since it's a kick only bike.
went to an oddessy battery after 2 hd batteries on my 02 fat boy. But the last hd battery still stays on tender and is used in my riding lawnmower (it's a honda)
They used to say two years was a good battery. Seems everyone is getting five out of them easy now.
Quote from: SHOStreetglide on February 17, 2010, 09:21:18 AM
They used to say two years was a good battery. Seems everyone is getting five out of them easy now.
Some things really do improve...... :up:
jt
I just ordered a new HD battery yesterday from Lakeside HD. They haven't increased their prices yet to match HD.com ($149) and also give 20% discount. I bought a few other things and got free shipping, too.
This'll be my third battery on the 02 Ultra. First lasted almost 5 years. Second (aftermarket) lasted just over 3.
I've gotten 3 good seasons out of my original battery but it's getting replaced this spring. I had accidentally run it DEAD 2 years ago but managed to revive it with a trickle charger. Still, last summer it was sluggish a few times. Better safe than sorry.
OK, just out of curiosity, I pulled the cover off at lunchtime and tried to start it today. Dead as a doornail! Been on the tender since late November...guess it WAS time!
2004 Ultra....original battery still strong..load tested. Have used a battery tender since new.
JW
Although I don't ride it as often, I am a firm believer in keeping a float charger on. I bought a new battery from Jireh on a sale. Haven't put it in, because the HD battery I bought March 1, 2000, still turns over my stroker. I keep the new one on a float, just in case. I never install a new battery until it has been on the charger over night, I don't care what the dealer says.
Battery arrived from Lakeside HD in only 3 days! I didn't expect it until Monday.
Before I put it in, checked the old one with my load tester. Charge was at 12.5 volts. Load test put the needle at the bottom of the green. Gee, did I buy a new battery unnecessarily?
Checked the brand new battery without any charging (new right out of the box). It showed 12.7 volts. Load test took it to the lower-middle of the green. Well, that's an improvement.
An hour later, the new battery had re-reached its 12.7 volt charge without any external input. The original had only come up to 12.2. I wish I knew more about lead/acid batteries. I do know from reading that anything under 12.6 is undercharged. I installed the new battery and put it on the saver.
I've decided that a new battery may not have been absolutely needed, but my old one was on the way out. Thinking that a new battery is easier on the charging circuit.
(Note: Bike is kept in heated/air conditioned workshop so temperature isn't a factor).
Here Ken, this might help you.
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf (http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf)
Ken,
Next time you need one, go below for a DEKA battery (ETX30L-FLT bikes) for approx $100.
East Penn Manufacturing Co., Inc.
1724 Trinity Valley Drive
Carrollton, TX 75006
Phone: 972-616-0682
Fax: 972-616-0685
What Ed Y said. They might even be able to get you a 1/2 price factory second. Now is a good time to look for a second because they were probably going like crazy to build inventory for the spring rush and there should be lots of seconds available.
Quote from: Ed Y on February 21, 2010, 05:51:43 AM
Ken,
Next time you need one, go below for a DEKA battery (ETX30L-FLT bikes) for approx $100.
East Penn Manufacturing Co., Inc.
1724 Trinity Valley Drive
Carrollton, TX 75006
Phone: 972-616-0682
Fax: 972-616-0685
Well this time I guess I didn't do too badly. New HD-branded battery from Lakeside HD for $108 (including shipping and no tax).
Quote from: trück on February 21, 2010, 05:41:16 AM
Here Ken, this might help you.
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf (http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf)
Wow, what a good read. Easy reading for the layperson yet technical enough to answer almost all of the questions one might have. Our AGM pressurized batteries are a lot more complicated than a nail and a penny stabbed into a lemon.
The document brought up one question that I hadn't considered before; that is, the affect of altitude on our sealed batteries. Towards the end, the document states that the internal pressure can go to 1.5 psi before being vented. Going over mountain passes would then, I suppose, cause the battery to vent it's gases and thus reduce the long-term life (much the same as being over-charged and venting). I guess they have it covered, though; haven't heard shorter battery life from people that live in the mountains of Colorado and often ride above 10,000 feet.
does anybody know which DeKa model will fit a '01 Dyna?
I replace every three years wether I need to or not. I have never been stranded like some folks have that are going for the five or seven year use factor.
L-