Well have been saying I was going to trade/sell my '06 Street Glide for a Road Glide for the last 6 months and when the 103" became standard I figured the time was right to make a move. So I finally test rode a '12 Road Glide Custom today. It was just a short ride with the sales guy leading on another bike but.....
Super smooth compared to my bike. I developed a vibration on my '06 that almost makes it annoying to ride. Had the dealer check the crank runout and it was well within spec (the older tighter spec) and had 2 different techs ride it and both said "feels fine". Nice Power. The 6th gear is great for running over 65. Sound is nice for a stock bike....got back on my 06 with a Supertrapp 2-1 and felt like it was too loud.
Unfortunately I'm just too damn small for the RG is stock form. Had to stretch to reach the handlebars and felt like I was sitting too close to the tank. I had the same issure with the SG and put a Corbin Close seat and a pair of pullback handlebars so it wasn't a true comparison but I didn't remember feeling like I was too small to reach the controls with the stock setup, just that it is more comfortable the way it is now. Got me thinking maybe I should just get a new SG rather than a RG.....but even with a '12 SG I'd eventually change the seat and bars so back to square one.
The other issue in my short ride was the wind buffetting. Again the same issue with the SG as it came with something like a 4" shield, like the small one on the Road Glide Custom, and I replaced it with an 8".
If I didn't have to change anything I'd do the swap tomorrow morning but darn if I'm not second guessing myself now as I'm adding up all the costs for a seat, bars, cables/wires/brake lines, windshields etc.
Decisions, decisions.....
Super easy to swap bars with the TBW. I swapped mine for the heritage style bars and it made a big difference, there are a ton of bars that you can use that keep stock cables. Seats are always an easy swap but I have been happy with my stock RGU seat so far. I have 16000 miles on my 2011 RGU and it is still the quietest smoothest harley mechanical wise I have ridden. I have a supermeg on mine and it sounds ideal to me. I have a Clearview GT medium windshield and it made all the difference in the world as far as buffeting went. With the stock shield I got a fair amount of buffeting around the head (I am 5'9")
I'm partial to the Road Glide.However I understand your dilemma as it seems to be suited to taller riders.
Best of luck with your decision.
Hey Jeff,
Do the Heritage bars bring the handgrips closer in or are they just taller. My understanding is that the Heritage bars don't require wiring/cable/brake line changes.
I've got a set of Krome Werks Sweeper bars on the SG and some claimed you could get away with stock stuff but I changed it all out as I couldn't get enough slack in the various line to where I felt it was safe at full turns . If I pull the trigger on the RG, I'm looking at the another set of Sweeper bars witht the same dimensions except they are 2" taller than stock so I'm figuring they would be close to the height of the Heritage bars but regardless of height, I need a set that brings the controls about 2" closer to me and I could roll them down an 1" or so to get a little closer.
I like the feel of the RGU seat but if I get one it will be a Custom. I have a detachable tour pack that will work on the RG and don't like the fact that the pack on the RGU is not easily removable. So if I'm changing seats might as well go with a Corbin Close as that is what I'm use to.
Sucks being 5'7" with short arms.
BTW, picked up a '09 DR650 3 weeks ago and having a blast with it.
The heritage bars come back about 3" from stock no need for any other cables other then stock. It is an easy conversion and all cables have plenty of length including tbw, clutch and brake. I am only 5'9" with average reach so not much shorter. Mean city cycles can cut your seat way down and move you forward at the same time and still have a comfortable seat. They owners wife i think is like 5' and rides a rg with a seat the cut down.
The Chubby Bagger Bars will bring it back and you can put the wiring inside the bars. Piece of cake to do. I'm tall and with the right windshield, I get no buffeting. The stock "windshield" is for looks only. The perspective on the RG differs greatly from your Street Glide but you'll get used to that quickly. The RG handles like a dream. (at least I can usually keep up... :wink: )
With the 10 in Chubbys you dont need to change any cables or lenghten any wires like you do with a SG...the RG has longer internal wires that leave lots of slack even with the higher bars... re routing the clutch cable allows you to use it as well :up:
Mark, as menntioned, you can fix the bar reach with aftermarket bars easily. The new RGs dont have quite a reach issue as the earlier RGs had, IMO. Still, it can be fixed.
The shield really isnt worth a damn to do anything but look good. You will need to swap it with another one or aftermarket. The HD smoked 9 inch is a great start. I use the Tall for winter, but have the stock thing for sumer, which is fine with a full face. Buffeting isnt that bad to me.
The only other issue you might be concerned with is reach to the CD player. Loading/changing CDs is a PITA when riding. But, I fixed it with a MP3 player, so not issues now. That is really the only thing that you might not like about the RG.
Let us know how it turns out.
Dennis
Go set on a Heritage to see if you like the bars, I know we're talking totally different bikes, but I put a set of Heritage bars on my 02 FB when I bought it, I hated the feel of the bars they put your wrists at an angle....
Thanks for all the replies.
I'm now leaning towards making the move after more thought......bars, seat, and windshiled would have been purchased at some point anyway just didn't think I'd do it immediately. Of course I wouldn't have to do it immediately but I would want to.
Dennis....The radio is waaaaaaay out there but I can reach it to turn off and on without a problem and the controls on the grips do everthing else. Never tried to change a CD while riding on the SG anyway so probably a non-issue.
I've sat on a older Heritage and liked the bar position, wonder if it would be close to the same in terms of distance of controls from my chest. I tried the HD Reduced reach bars on my SG and hated the grip angle. The Chubby's look nice, not sure about the grip angle but the price is much higher than the Sweepers (hell they're only $79) so if cables are needed with them the price difference between the Sweepers and Chubbys would be close to a wash and I really like the grip angle on the Sweepers......close to flat like a dirt bike. Of course the Chubbys are nicer, beefier, better looking bars, but I'm more into function over looks these days.
Sales guy said they have a black one in shipment and should be on the floor around 12/8.
So any estimates on what kind of trade-in offer I can expect on an '06 FLHX, stock 88", with little mods other than K&N filter and Supertrapp 2-1, and 34K miles.
Before you pull the trigger on the RG Custom,
Check the price on the RG Ultra, not a lot more money in the scheme of things and you get:
ABS Tour Pak Lower Fairings and Cruise Control all as standard.
You can't even touch the tour pak for the diff in price and you can change the tour pak to a removable mount if you need to have the look of the Custom and remove the lowers in the warmer months.
Thinks about it and take one of them for a ride lot more stuff, not a lot more money. Almost a bargain in HD Land I'd say.
Check it out before you decide.
Are the dealers willing to work with you on pricing? any hot deals? :unsure:
Quote from: 04GLIDER2 on November 27, 2011, 08:49:56 PM
Before you pull the trigger on the RG Custom,
Check the price on the RG Ultra, not a lot more money in the scheme of things and you get:
ABS Tour Pak Lower Fairings and Cruise Control all as standard.
You can't even touch the tour pak for the diff in price and you can change the tour pak to a removable mount if you need to have the look of the Custom and remove the lowers in the warmer months.
Thinks about it and take one of them for a ride lot more stuff, not a lot more money. Almost a bargain in HD Land I'd say.
Check it out before you decide.
I agree. A lot cheaper and easier to make an Ultra a custom then the other way around.
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/jadmt/027.jpg)
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx74/jadmt/008-2.jpg)
Hey Blk-Betty,
I see that you already have a tour pak, I would still think about the RG Ultra and you can sell the tour pak on E-Bay or Craigs List for quiet a bit of money, and make the new one removable.
Do a little research first.
Good points about the Ultra.
I didn't know you could easily make the tour pack detachable. 95% of my riding would be without a pack whether I get a Custom and use my own or buy an Ultra with the pack installed. Having never had lower fairing I guess I don't know what I might be missing but most of my riding is at temps above 40F, with less than 10% below 50F....just a function of living in the southeast and when I tour it's during the warmer months.
Standard ABS and cruise would be plus for the Ultra no doubt.
Every thing comes off really easy. The detach trunk kit is about $500 thru discount dealers but makes it about a 1 minute job off and on. the lowers need no detach kit and it takes no more then 10 minutes or so to remove or replace them. I like having the option.
ABS and Cruise are a little harder to add later if you think they are worth it.
Does the Custom come stock with cruise? Didn't think so but I have been wrong before
Just ask my wife.
Cruise and ABS are options on the FLTRX. ABS with Security only. Cruise by itself. I would look for one with them already installed from the factory, as my 2010 was built.
From MoCo website for 2012 FLTRX:
Vivid Black$ 19,499
Color Option$ 19,994
Two-Tone Option N/A
Custom Color Option N/A
Wheel Option$ 460
Security Option Only offered as part of Security Package
ABS Option Only offered as part Security Package
Security Package (Security and ABS)$ 1,195
Reverse Option N/A
Cruise Control Option$ 295
California Emissions$ 200
Freight$ 380
No, cruise is not stock on the Custom it's an additional $295 and ABS is part of the optional security package which prices out at $1195.
So adding cruise and ABS brings the price of the Custom to about $1500-2000 less than the Ultra...which is probably about what it cost to add the tour pack and lowers.
If I didn't already have a tour pack I think the Ultra would be my go to bike. I've got some cash saved up and trying to do this deal with no financing so bottom line price is a big factor and a lot of really depends on how much they will offer for my '06 SG. I've got a price in mind but don't know if it is reasonable or not. I know in the recent past they have had a couple 06 SGs on the floor and they were asking about $6K more than the price I have in mind. Of course that price was resale and what they will offer me is wholesale trade, not to mention I have no idea how much they actully sold the used 06 SGs. Normally I wouldn't even consider a trade but in this economy and the time of year a trade will likely get rid of my bike much quicker than a private sale.
I'll talk numbers with them this weekend after I have a chance to remove some of the add-ons from my bike that will fit on a new bike or I can sell seperately.
Quote from: Dennis The Menace on November 28, 2011, 06:06:10 PM
Cruise and ABS are options on the FLTRX. ABS with Security only. Cruise by itself. I would look for one with them already installed from the factory, as my 2010 was built.
From MoCo website for 2012 FLTRX:
Vivid Black$ 19,499
Color Option$ 19,994
Two-Tone Option N/A
Custom Color Option N/A
Wheel Option$ 460
Security Option Only offered as part of Security Package
ABS Option Only offered as part Security Package
Security Package (Security and ABS)$ 1,195
Reverse Option N/A
Cruise Control Option$ 295
California Emissions$ 200
Freight$ 380
Thanks Dennis.....I've been studying the published data. Interesting (to me) that the SG and RG Custom are priced identical.
blk-betty, I have some Heritage bars that I took off my 98 RK Police bike 10 years ago. They are just collecting dust in the garage. If you are interested shoot me an email at, garvdnb at verizon dot net, and I'll send pictures. I'll ship them to you for the cost and you can send me a check for what you think they are worth to you.
Mark, I would still try and sell the SG for low retail or wholesale. If you have cash to take to the dealer, you have more bargaining power. Keeps things focused on what you want to pay for the new bike. eBay or Chopperexchange are good places to try to sell. Keep it low, and it may go. There are still people buying this time of year. I sold my 07 RG in November last year, to a Californian. So, there is still buyers in nice climates this time of year, and they are looking for a deal.
That said, I would look at making a deal on the new bike on the last day of the month. They need to try to achieve sales quotas for the month, and if they need the sale, they will do the best deal on the last day of the month. My experience and what I was told by a local HD sales guy with years in the biz.
Start at 2k under MSRP off the HD website and let them laugh at you. Be prepared to negotiate and if they wont talk at MSRP or below, walk. Nobody gets more than MSRP on a bike right now unless its a hard to get CVO, or some sucker wants to pay over MSRP.
I got a great deal on a leftover 2010 in March 2011. If you find a leftover 2011, you can expect at least 1500.00 off MSRP, IMO. If you hold out for a 2012, they are less likely to make a killer deal, but you should still get it at under MSRP, I think.
Be prepared for them to offer service plans, or extended warranties to try and get you to pay MSRP on the bike. You can always buy a warranty before the 2-year standard warranty is up, so it does not have to be purchased when the bike is brand new. Dont let them tell you otherwise. As for the service plans, they are usually only good at that dealer, so you decide if they are worth it to you. Also, they are often only oil and filter change, not the scheduled maintenence, which can run 300.00 or more each service interval. So, keep the details and math in mind on that.
I dont say this to try and cheat the dealer out of a profit. I always want teh best price I can get on a vehicle, and still allow the dealer to make a profit. If they work with me, I respect them more, and give them my future, ongoing business. If they dont want to work with me, they dont get my money. Simple.
HTH.
Quote from: 98roadking on November 29, 2011, 01:25:05 PM
blk-betty, I have some Heritage bars that I took off my 98 RK Police bike 10 years ago. They are just collecting dust in the garage. If you are interested shoot me an email at, garvdnb at verizon dot net, and I'll send pictures. I'll ship them to you for the cost and you can send me a check for what you think they are worth to you.
They won't work on the new tbw bikes. Well not without altering them a bit anyway.
98roadking...
Thanks for the offer but like Jeff said don't think they will work with the FBW throttle setup.
Dennis...
All good points. My one and only local dealer claims to be a MSRP only shop....something about keeping in good standing with the MoCo and not weakening the brand by cutting prices. When I spoke to the sales guy 2 months ago he suggested that they were ways to "hide" a discount and sell for less than MSRP by offering more than wholesale trade-in where the balance sheet says sold for MSRP but they give more in trade to offset selling at full retail.
When I bought the SG in 06 I tried to buy from them and they wouldn't budge so I went 5 hours away and got it for $1500 off MSRP. As a rule I never buy extended waranties or service plans so don't think they will be able to talk me into any of those.
I have been fortunate with my job and make a fair amount more than I did 6 years. With the present economy I'm much more inclined to pay "a little" more and support the local guys than I was in 2006. It's all numbers so I really don't care what figures they put on a bill of sale for the new bike and the trade as long as the final $$ out of my pocket are within a level that I have predetermined which I feel is fair to both of us.
I'm going to clean it up, remove a few things that won't affect its value, and take it in this weekend and see what they can come up with. If they don't meet my $ amount, I'll advertise it and try to sell it privately.
blk-betty: Had many of the same issue's as you after I bought a 2010 fltrx. Changed the bars to the Kromewerks sweepers +2 and the windshield to a windvest 14".
Bars fit with simple reroute of the clutch cable and windshield did away with most of the buffeting. I also added the harley snap-on wind deflectors ahead of the tank and some sancho wings on outside of the fairing.
Had never even ridden a road glide before purchasing, just noticed alot of people that put on a ton of miles are riding them. Damn things almost drive themselves.
(coming off of a 2002 heritage).
I traded a 1200C Sportster and a Road Glide in on a new 2011 Road Glide Ultra July 1st. Both of my trade ins were pretty well loaded and I knew I wouldn't get what I had in them but with $1,500 off MSRP and only having to pay tax on the difference the deal wasn't to bad. I'm 5'7" and 72 and after I got the Glide I was wondering if it was a smart thing to do. It was higher and heaver than my '06 RG but after a few thousand miles there is no way I would want the old '06 RG. Ride, handling and stopping are far better and after the SE Pro tuner it runs better than my camed 95" '06. Also the lowers are nice since winter is coming.
Bigs
vetteandharley...sent you a PM with a couple questions about your Sweeper bars.
Quote from: blk-betty on November 27, 2011, 04:39:20 PM
Hey Jeff,
Do the Heritage bars bring the handgrips closer in or are they just taller. My understanding is that the Heritage bars don't require wiring/cable/brake line changes.
I've got a set of Krome Werks Sweeper bars on the SG and some claimed you could get away with stock stuff but I changed it all out as I couldn't get enough slack in the various line to where I felt it was safe at full turns . If I pull the trigger on the RG, I'm looking at the another set of Sweeper bars witht the same dimensions except they are 2" taller than stock so I'm figuring they would be close to the height of the Heritage bars but regardless of height, I need a set that brings the controls about 2" closer to me and I could roll them down an 1" or so to get a little closer.
I like the feel of the RGU seat but if I get one it will be a Custom. I have a detachable tour pack that will work on the RG and don't like the fact that the pack on the RGU is not easily removable. So if I'm changing seats might as well go with a Corbin Close as that is what I'm use to.
Sucks being 5'7" with short arms.
BTW, picked up a '09 DR650 3 weeks ago and having a blast with it.
I just bought an 01' Road Glide and I am 5'6" and I LOVE my Road Glide. I can reach everything just fine except for the hiway pegs but I am looking at getting a custom set made. I have the 16" ape hangers on my ride and I love them as well. I think that they are way more comfortable than the stock bars and as far as the reach goes, no issues there either.. :smiled:
Blk-betty, Don't know if you might be interested in 2011 dealer demo Road Glide with 2000 miles on it, but Jamestown Harley in Jamestown NY has one that they want 23 K for, I'm sure you could work from there into the 21's, Nobody is buying anything up here on 2 wheels. Thats where I bought my 07 yesterday. If your interested and can cut a deal, I'll be heading to FL on 12/28 and running right through your area, I have room to haul 2 more bikes in my trailer. the cost would be minimal maybe a couple of beers.
I just went back in my emailso I could send you a listing But I think it is a SE edition
whatever you do, don't by a bike. Spend a few dollars, and make it right, or live with it.
help me understand i here many tmes how great a roadglide handels,, but isnt the roadglide and a street glide the exact same frame, rake, trail, ect just a difference in the frame mounted fareing compared to batwing, seems to me the street glide would protect the rider better in rough weather situations, with the faring closer to the rider, just trying to make a good choice on what to buy
thanks
Quote from: ridgerider on December 03, 2011, 05:03:12 AM
help me understand i here many tmes how great a roadglide handels,, but isnt the roadglide and a street glide the exact same frame, rake, trail, ect just a difference in the frame mounted fareing compared to batwing, seems to me the street glide would protect the rider better in rough weather situations, with the faring closer to the rider, just trying to make a good choice on what to buy
thanks
I have put over 80,000 miles on an EGC, 16,000 miles so far on my RGU and many 1000's miles on Roadkings and they all handle the same, get the one you like the looks of best.
Quote from: ridgerider on December 03, 2011, 05:03:12 AM
help me understand i here many tmes how great a roadglide handels,, but isnt the roadglide and a street glide the exact same frame, rake, trail, ect just a difference in the frame mounted fareing compared to batwing, seems to me the street glide would protect the rider better in rough weather situations, with the faring closer to the rider, just trying to make a good choice on what to buy
thanks
You are correct on the frame being the same. The big deal about the RG is the weight of the fairing is carried by the frame, instead of right on the forks, so the bike steers lighter. Now I have been riding a Ultra for 7 years and really dont have an issue with the handling. I have never riden a RG but I have to wonder how much lighter a bike can steer? An Ultra steers pretty darned easily so unless a RG steers itself I can't see there being a major differance.
As to which one to buy? Only you can make the decision. Some guys don't like Road Glides as much as a bat winged bike.
Quote from: Jeffd on December 03, 2011, 06:09:31 AM
Quote from: ridgerider on December 03, 2011, 05:03:12 AM
help me understand i here many tmes how great a roadglide handels,, but isnt the roadglide and a street glide the exact same frame, rake, trail, ect just a difference in the frame mounted fareing compared to batwing, seems to me the street glide would protect the rider better in rough weather situations, with the faring closer to the rider, just trying to make a good choice on what to buy
thanks
I have put over 80,000 miles on an EGC, 16,000 miles so far on my RGU and many 1000's miles on Roadkings and they all handle the same, get the one you like the looks of best.
So Jeff....If'n you had to replace your RGU AND were buying new next week AND price was not an issue, which one would you buy having experince with all three?
Just took delivery of a new Road Glide Ultra. Still have my '95 Electra Glide. A lot has changed in 17 years, but to me the biggest difference is the frame mounted fairing. In South Florida we can get some pretty windy days and unfortunately a lot of our riding can be on interstates. With the bat wing fairing I can get blown all over the place. The Road Glide runs straight as an arrow, even overtaking a big rig. I'm sure the new frame contributes as well, but I really enjoy having a fairing that is not attached to the front forks.
"even overtaking a big rig."
They really shine in that situation. Also instead of the bulk of the wind catching me, like it did on the batwing, it goes behind me. Important on a long day where fatigue can be a issue.
There are pros and cons for selling yourself and trading it in at the dealer. You may or may not have more bargaining power. Most I've gone to are staying pretty close to MSRP, especially for the Road Glides because they aren't as common. You have to remember that whatever they give you for for your trade in is subtracted from the cost of the new bike when you figure taxes. I traded my 2010 Road Glide Custom for a 2012 Road Glide Ultra back in October. The dealer gave me $17,000 for my trade in. I probably could have gotten $500-$750 more selling it on my own, but I saved over $1,000 in taxes by trading it in. Also, don't let them stick you with freight and setup charges. My dealer tried to charge me over $800. I told them that was a deal breaker for me and the finally relented.
Quote from: Dennis The Menace on November 29, 2011, 01:37:55 PM
Mark, I would still try and sell the SG for low retail or wholesale. If you have cash to take to the dealer, you have more bargaining power. Keeps things focused on what you want to pay for the new bike. eBay or Chopperexchange are good places to try to sell. Keep it low, and it may go. There are still people buying this time of year. I sold my 07 RG in November last year, to a Californian. So, there is still buyers in nice climates this time of year, and they are looking for a deal.
That said, I would look at making a deal on the new bike on the last day of the month. They need to try to achieve sales quotas for the month, and if they need the sale, they will do the best deal on the last day of the month. My experience and what I was told by a local HD sales guy with years in the biz.
Start at 2k under MSRP off the HD website and let them laugh at you. Be prepared to negotiate and if they wont talk at MSRP or below, walk. Nobody gets more than MSRP on a bike right now unless its a hard to get CVO, or some sucker wants to pay over MSRP.
I got a great deal on a leftover 2010 in March 2011. If you find a leftover 2011, you can expect at least 1500.00 off MSRP, IMO. If you hold out for a 2012, they are less likely to make a killer deal, but you should still get it at under MSRP, I think.
Be prepared for them to offer service plans, or extended warranties to try and get you to pay MSRP on the bike. You can always buy a warranty before the 2-year standard warranty is up, so it does not have to be purchased when the bike is brand new. Dont let them tell you otherwise. As for the service plans, they are usually only good at that dealer, so you decide if they are worth it to you. Also, they are often only oil and filter change, not the scheduled maintenence, which can run 300.00 or more each service interval. So, keep the details and math in mind on that.
I dont say this to try and cheat the dealer out of a profit. I always want teh best price I can get on a vehicle, and still allow the dealer to make a profit. If they work with me, I respect them more, and give them my future, ongoing business. If they dont want to work with me, they dont get my money. Simple.
HTH.
Quote from: blk-betty on December 03, 2011, 06:43:07 AM
Quote from: Jeffd on December 03, 2011, 06:09:31 AM
Quote from: ridgerider on December 03, 2011, 05:03:12 AM
help me understand i here many tmes how great a roadglide handels,, but isnt the roadglide and a street glide the exact same frame, rake, trail, ect just a difference in the frame mounted fareing compared to batwing, seems to me the street glide would protect the rider better in rough weather situations, with the faring closer to the rider, just trying to make a good choice on what to buy
thanks
I have put over 80,000 miles on an EGC, 16,000 miles so far on my RGU and many 1000's miles on Roadkings and they all handle the same, get the one you like the looks of best.
So Jeff....If'n you had to replace your RGU AND were buying new next week AND price was not an issue, which one would you buy having experince with all three?
Well if price was no issue I would get a SE electra glide ultra but of course price is always an issue. I really like my RGU but I like the looks of the Electra Glide better and would not hesitate to get another one if something were to happen to my RGU. When I got my RGU I took two extended test drives ont he RGU and EGU back to back and they were so close I decided to go with the RGU just because it was a little different looking but after a year I kind of miss the batwing. I like Roadkings but no way would I get one over the RG or the EG as I like having the stereo.
Well I finally did it.
Met with the sales guy this afternoon. He gave me price on trade that although not as much as I hoped, it was more than my minimum. Actually his first price was less than my minimum but I got him to kick in an additional $750 for the trade so it all worked out. I was hoping for more on trade but I got more than what I needed to make the deal work.
Bike will be ready for pick up Tuesday afternoon. My only gripe is that it doesn't have ABS which I'm sorta bummed about but it does have cruise and of the two options, I'd rather have cruise if only one choice was available.....plus not getting ABS saved me a little more money. Guess I'm one to hold on to older tech as my 06 SG was a carb model even though EFI had been out for 5 years or more. Never had a bike before with ABS so one of those situations where I really don't know what I'm missing and I keep justifying it by telling myself one less thing to worry about malfunctioning. However, I presume the ABS failure rate is minimal at most.
Just for kicks I checked Ebay completed listings and from what I saw I don't think I could have gotten any more than about $500 on a private sale this time of year. His trade in price was the same or even a tiny bit higher than 2 Ebay sales in the last month and my bike had more miles on it than those that sold on Ebay. Probably just trying to convince myself that I got a decent deal but I figured with my bike being a carb model and with just over 35K miles I'd have a hard time competing with other '06 SGs that may have a lot less miles and would have EFI or more likely 07-later EFI models with 96", six speed, and 6-gallon tanks.
I certainly didn't get a "great deal" but on the other hand I don't think I got ripped off either so all is well.
While waiting on the paperwork I was looking at the fairing to see how it comes apart to access the handlebar clamps and couldn't really figure it out....looks like a little more involved than removing the batwing outer fairing but access to the bar clamps themselves looks easier. Might be soliciting help from you guys that have done it already until I purchase a service manual.
In nearly 25k miles on my last two bikes, both with ABS, I believe the only time I've "used" it is when it "goes off" in the rear while just coming to a stop on rough road. It's a bit aggravating, actually.
Enjoy your new ride.
Picked up my Road Glide yesterday, Temps in the upper 40's, rode it the 70 miles home and was fairly comfortable. The temp hit 60 today and I rode it another 100 miles. I really like it, the damn thing almost drives itself, just set the cruise turn up the tunes and sit back and relax.
I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine. (nice windshield can even ride with a big grin without getting bugs in my teeth :teeth: ) that bug thing also helps when you leave your teeth in the cup in the bathroom :hyst:
[attachment removed after 60 days by system]
I have the ABS on my 2010 RG and if I had to do it over again, I think I would have saved my money. I have never been able to get the front brakes right. 1st grab is slightly spongy, then 2nd grab is firm. Had them bleed it once and no luck. I have ridden for over 30 yrs without ABS and while I know the response is, 'that one time will save your life', I think you'd be better off chasing better tires, etc... Just my 2 cents from someone with ABS.
Congrats on the score!!!
Quote from: blk-betty on December 04, 2011, 03:54:05 PM
Well I finally did it.
While waiting on the paperwork I was looking at the fairing to see how it comes apart to access the handlebar clamps and couldn't really figure it out....looks like a little more involved than removing the batwing outer fairing but access to the bar clamps themselves looks easier. Might be soliciting help from you guys that have done it already until I purchase a service manual.
yes the fairing is a little more of a pain to get off compared to the batwing. Once you do it a few times and figure out how to get it back on it is not bad. you have to remove the front blinkers and the 6 torx screws holding the fairing on. Putting ithe fairing on there is a little hook that you have to get hooked and then it is a piece of cake. Some guys remove the headlight to make it easier but I did not have to that do that.
If you are happy with the deal then nothing else matters, don't look back.
Quote from: Jeffd on December 04, 2011, 05:18:55 PM
Quote from: blk-betty on December 04, 2011, 03:54:05 PM
Well I finally did it.
While waiting on the paperwork I was looking at the fairing to see how it comes apart to access the handlebar clamps and couldn't really figure it out....looks like a little more involved than removing the batwing outer fairing but access to the bar clamps themselves looks easier. Might be soliciting help from you guys that have done it already until I purchase a service manual.
yes the fairing is a little more of a pain to get off compared to the batwing. Once you do it a few times and figure out how to get it back on it is not bad. you have to remove the front blinkers and the 6 torx screws holding the fairing on. Putting ithe fairing on there is a little hook that you have to get hooked and then it is a piece of cake. Some guys remove the headlight to make it easier but I did not have to that do that.
If you are happy with the deal then nothing else matters, don't look back.
You don't have to remove the fairing to get to the handlebar clamps, just the speedo and tach. Remove the 2 T25 torx screws from each side of the instrument bezel, then push forward at the bottom just in front of the ignition switch while lifting up. The speedo and tach should release and you can then work them free, remove the connectors to remove completely. That should give you enough access to get the bar clamps off; if you have to remove the instrument nacelle it becomes a PITA.
Congrats on the new ride. I hope you enjoy it for many miles. For me, trade-in is the only way to go. Never been successful trying to sell one myself unless I'm willing to give it away. Post a picture for us after you get it home.
jt
Quote from: harleyjt on December 05, 2011, 05:06:46 AM
Congrats on the new ride. I hope you enjoy it for many miles. For me, trade-in is the only way to go. Never been successful trying to sell one myself unless I'm willing to give it away. Post a picture for us after you get it home.
jt
Will do. Stuck in jury duty all week but hopefully I can get away to pick it up tomorrow evening before 6pm.
Quote from: glens on December 04, 2011, 04:40:29 PM
In nearly 25k miles on my last two bikes, both with ABS, I believe the only time I've "used" it is when it "goes off" in the rear while just coming to a stop on rough road. It's a bit aggravating, actually.
Enjoy your new ride.
Amen.
Mark, you arent missing anything going without ABS. I would only want it if I rode a lot of loose surface roads. Proper braking technique will prevent you from ever engaging ABS.
Anyway, congrats on the new ride. As Exfed said, it kinda drives itself, so dont fall asleep and fall off the back of the bike. Seriously. Sometimes you have to make an effort to pay attention to whats going on around you. Its a relaxing bike.
Picked it up this afternoon. Funny in that it doesn't seem like I'm reaching out so much for the controls as it did when I test rode one.
Was planning on new bars and a closer seat like I had on the SG but I'm thinking now if I get a set of the 2" Sweeper bars (had the standard Sweepers on the SG) I may be able to get by with a regular big-boy seat.
Got a few questions about the 103", tuning, and heat but will ask those over on the Twin Cam board.
Just ride and enjoy, You bought yourself a great bike. Congrads... If I had another 12K I would have bought new instead of used :scoot:
Hopefully I get to pick mine up saturday. The dealer here has about 12 used batwing bikes on the floor. But every roadglide that shows up sells preety quickly. My last 2 bikes have been batwing farrings, looking forward to the change. Can't change my woman, but can change my bike. One thing about buying new is u can't find to many used parts. check the swap meet section for used parts 1997 thru 2007 . emptying my garage.
Congrats on the new ride, you are going to love it. I would never go back from the dark side.
I put 12.5 apes on and for me it makes it very nice.
If you change bars or risers, after you take off the tach/speedo head you can use a small dremel or other burr type grinder to remove a little plastic over the rear pinch bolts on the risers. That will allow you to remove the caps without removing the instrument nacel. Don't worry the little bit you remove is covered when you put back the tach/speedo head.
Another bit of good news is that there is enough extra wire inside the fairing that you can go to 16" apes without adding any wire extensions to the handlebars.
If you go to longer bars consider changing the riser bushings to urethane ones to lessen the flex with the longer bars you have more leverage. Drag Specialties $10 or the dealer $40.
Just ride for awhile and decide what you really need. Check out the other RG's you see on the road to see what you can end up with.
Great Bike and Great Rides in Your Future!!!!!!
If you do the bars put some dimples in the riser clamps to help hold everything where you want it.
Wild Ones 12.5 Pics :
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Good choice in ride... LOL!
(http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp537%3C8%3Enu%3D32%3A6%3E574%3E975%3EWSNRCG%3D34%3B955588632%3Cnu0mrj)