TO All HTT Mod's and forum royalty:
Let me know it you want this type of thread run in your Forum. If you decide to allow it I ask that you please advise on best practices, proper location and the best way to up load the photos. I am intending to run a continuous thread while building this Twin Cam. Maybe I will make additions as often as 1 times a day or in some instances 1-2 times per week.
I'm looking forward to your build an how its done. Its a twin cam...put it in a twin cam section.
Loading photos!!!
In my first attempt to get the photos uploaded, I ran into file size issues. Does any one have any tips on reducing the file size. Is there and app that will trim them down to an acceptable size, or do I make adjustment to my camera. FYI, This is my first Digital camera, a week old and my first go-round with uploading pics to this site
Any constructive help please?
I tuned into the stickie on uploading . Now to go out there and find out what the photo-bucket thing is, and what hoops to jump thru there.
It easy, just sign up for photo bucket, put your pix on there, and then post the link for us to see them.
I use to be able to insert a link to the address of a photo of mine in flickr and it would show up fine. Now all I get is the blue box. Anyone know why?
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,157.0.html (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,157.0.html)
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end. Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#)
so when I insert this address I just get the blue box. I use to be able to do it. I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it. The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end. Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#)
so when I insert this address I just get the blue box. I use to be able to do it. I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it. The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.
I just clicked your link and got a picture of two old guys hanging out in a garage. :nix:
Quote from: truck on October 27, 2013, 04:14:15 AM
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end. Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#)
so when I insert this address I just get the blue box. I use to be able to do it. I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it. The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.
I just clicked your link and got a picture of two old guys hanging out in a garage. :nix:
I clicked on the link and got to topless gals in a hot tub :teeth:
I can supply the link as shown and you can follow it ok ( that's a picture of me and Otto ). If I try to embed it so that it shows up in the thread, I just get a blue box with a question mark. Like I said it use to work and I am guessing that the address use to have something like a .jpg on the end and now it doesn't?
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end. Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#)
so when I insert this address I just get the blue box. I use to be able to do it. I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it. The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.
Looks like you can't use flicker as a picture host..
QuoteWhere is the HTML code and photo file link?
The HTML code to embed a photo in a web page that you used to find on the All Sizes page is now only in the Share menu on the photo, to the left of the More menu. We now also include BBCode! (standard message board code)
There are a few cases where the code may not be available: 1) If the photo is restricted. 2) If that person has turned off "Share this" or access to original files.
The direct link to a photo file is no longer shown on the page. Per the Flickr Community Guidelines "pages on other websites that display content hosted on flickr.com must provide a link from each photo or video back to its page on Flickr." Linking directly to the photo file doesn't do this.
Permalink | Top
Max
Ok thanks for the input, I guess you'll just have to follow the link if your interested in seeing any pictures I post.
When I started this thread I had envisioned a much simpler task. After multiple failures using 3 different hosts, I really don't have any interest in messing around on a computer.
As it turns out my interest lies in the work that I have in the garage, completing my engine and getting it in the bike and off to a tuner. I will continue to take pictures several times a day and see what can be done about loading the highlights after the bike is up.
:agree: There are already over 300 views so you have an interested audience. Not many 105's around to check out so stay with us.
cling
Ok, the cases are married now, so I'll give 'em tomato set up a bit and take another swing at the thread.
Later tonight, I just stopped for grub. I can prep the primary yet tonight.
Square one;
Checking stack heights. I can get an indication of how many cone spacers to have on hand, and in what direction from the factory set-up. The only true way to go is rattled up tight a time or two in the cups and on the sprocket shaft. Maybe I can get lucky and not need all dozen or so spacers on account.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Square%20One/SquareOne009_zpsbbcbfe0d.jpg)
After a close inspection of all surfaces, threads and condition I employed a 1" X 1" square stone to bring down any risers left from handling. These are completely de-burred and as it turns out they are dishwasher safe
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Square%20One/SquareOne011_zps6dd98883.jpg)
Thanks to Summit Racing Prod and Wiseco I found and alternate wrist pin and I was able to get within 8 grams total of the bob weight the flywheel shop balanced the crank assembly. Scott says that "I'm golden with my piston, pin and ring set in this weight range"
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Square%20One/SquareOne012_zps1f4e51aa.jpg)
I do like the way these cleaned up. I will spray some love from a H-D can of silver later on, before I slide it into the frame.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Square%20One/SquareOne010_zps7e021d02.jpg)
A bit of press work to start the build. I have set up hundreds of opposing taper roller sets in my carreer, from 43" dia 4 cone and cup sets across a 60" span all the down to .677od cup super high speed ceramic sets running 30k-35k rpms. With a dozen big twin lower ends under my belt I do not adhere to factory specs here. I will not argue the point, it's my money. Follow your bible and heart.
Last night I compared stack height with the old sets of timkens and found that both read about .003" higher than old. I let my experience guide me to place the factory spacer between the cones and rattled it up 3 times to 150 pound feet, although I knew form the back pressure from the hand pump that I had both cups in home position inside of the case half.
NOTE get your self in tune with how little pressure it takes to move the flywheels around upon the crank pin as a fulcrum. I always use an adjustable parallel between the wheels opposite the pin to avoid disappointment down the road. You can use a close fitting 1/2" bolt with a heavy flange nut to bridge the open space opposite the rod pin. I am not saying that you will spoil a well made and welded flywheel assembly, but why take chances here?
Here I have checked the end play at "nut". too good to be true?
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg)
To be certain I pressed the outside cone off and went 2 sizes more for the cone spacer and ratteled it up again, for a total of .004" plus "nut". As it turns out the only mistake I made today was thinking that I was wrong 20 minutes ago...... I tore it down and went back to the original spacer and TIR @ "nut". I say good enough.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0040_zps2a81fab8.jpg)
Now the right side get some attention. Ready for three. The bible wants you to press the pinion side roller in from the cam side with the numbers up.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0039_zpsbcdfe03e.jpg)
With Photobucket, you can use the image link like this..
http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg (http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg)
The easiest way is to start a reply and click on this button where the arrow is and you will see some text on the box.
[attach=1]
copy your link to the picture and paste into the middle between the ][
[attach=0]
And you will get this.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg)
Max
[attachment removed after 60 days by system]
Thank you, Sir.
Max :up:
or paste your link to the picture
(http://i.imgur.com/6SZ73lA.jpg)
select/highlight the link
(http://i.imgur.com/wh1b3p4.jpg)
then enclose it in img tags by hitting the Image Button
(http://i.imgur.com/sd8lbAg.jpg)
and you will get this.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg)
Ok FSG, using you method
then I should be able to edit/modify my 2 posts where only links are displayed.
It actually took more work than that, but they are re-published with pictorials.
Thank you as well Sir.
:up: When you go back to edit/modify you have the URL [ url][/url ] Tags to deal with, but no biggie as you found out.
Some common bolts and nuts can save your surfaces and protect the dowels from destruction. I use 5 on each side. And two under the cam case provides a leg to keep the half upright
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/2%20into%201/IMG_00441_zps72188170.jpg)
These little beggers are the reason the H_D switched from the 10 micron to the 5 micron. The only real difference that this move made is that it turned a $12.95 filter into a $15.95 one. And I think the dealerships also quit reporting the jets as being the root cause for cylinder bore and heat related failures. Go study how filters collect particles and the randomness of it all, and you may call it BS too.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/2%20into%201/IMG_00471_zps63224e6f.jpg)
Don't forget to remove the spider. :teeth:
A PRIMER ON THREADS:
Taps are for cutting threads, not chasing threads. Even very slight changes in your pitch diameter will jeopordize the ability of a fastener to hold it's load. Get or make thread chasers.
Use a good torque wrench only. It is real science and will work for you all of the time. In every instance the tapped hole, nut and bolt or screw must be clean and dry. If the Bible tells you to use thread locker, then use it. Engineered torque values are different for dry threaded fasteners. For this reason use caution if you decide to use thread locker where none has been called for.
In every instance thread locker compounds are useless if the components are not completely clean and oil free.
20 years ago Yamabond (#3 then #4) was the best case sealant out there. There are many good ones now. I prefer the non-drying type.
Do not forget to lube your pinion shaft bearing when assembling the halves, it's a very tough situation when bearing steel slides upon bearing steel in the clean and dry condition.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/2%20into%201/IMG_00501_zps0585b21c.jpg)
This torque tool is welcome in my shop. It recorded all 18 torque values used to button the cases up.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/2%20into%201/IMG_00601_zpscee54714.jpg)
I am wasting a huge amount of time using photobucket. It has to be reloaded with every use, upload and reload, copy and reload, view and reload, make a folder and reload, edit a pic and reload. I am done with it...
Does anyone have an idea of another web hosting program that work all of the time?
Quote from: SE Road King on November 01, 2013, 06:28:32 AM
I am wasting a huge amount of time using photobucket. It has to be reloaded with every use, upload and reload, copy and reload, view and reload, make a folder and reload, edit a pic and reload. I am done with it...
Does anyone have an idea of another web hosting program that work all of the time?
Photobucket works good for me. I open it in a new window then go to it when I want to copy a photo image then back to the post I'm trying to make and paste it in there. Just bounce back and forth as needed, no reloading.
Quote from: SE Road King on November 01, 2013, 06:28:32 AM
I am wasting a huge amount of time using photobucket. It has to be reloaded with every use, upload and reload, copy and reload, view and reload, make a folder and reload, edit a pic and reload. I am done with it...
Does anyone have an idea of another web hosting program that work all of the time?
How about storing them in "Pictures" on your computer? Mind you I'm not the most computer savoy person.
:pop:
I'm running Windows 7 on Microsoft XP. Once I save a picture, if it's to big, right click on it and click open with paint then click re-size and knock it down @ 50%.
When you reply to the thread click attachments and then browse for the picture you want. Ezee Peezzee
Keep it going, We'all like pictures
I am working under the impression that the photos must be hosted on the web for retrieval to HTT
:pop:
A good thread to follow.
:up:
Quote from: SE Road King on November 01, 2013, 10:38:16 PM
I am working under the impression that the photos must be hosted on the web for retrieval to HTT
Yes our preference is for them to be hosted elsewhere, that way it keeps the HTT Database size down.
Quote from: FSG on November 02, 2013, 12:50:48 AM
Quote from: SE Road King on November 01, 2013, 10:38:16 PM
I am working under the impression that the photos must be hosted on the web for retrieval to HTT
Yes our preference is for them to be hosted elsewhere, that way it keeps the HTT Database size down.
I can dig it. :agree:
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end. Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#)
so when I insert this address I just get the blue box. I use to be able to do it. I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it. The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.
Just click on photo and click on Original. Then right click on the picture and click on Copy Image Location. Use our image button when you post and paste that image URL in. Like below
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2481/3598751495_74b17fa82d_o.jpg (http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2481/3598751495_74b17fa82d_o.jpg)
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2481/3598751495_74b17fa82d_o.jpg)
Out with the old
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Square%20One/SquareOne028_zps9141b6b4.jpg)
On a trip to Mothers.
I use Dawn to obtain this 'very oil free finish'. Now apply the mothers. On most of the chrome finish parts I leave the mothers on until the parts are installed, then buff them out. Just got to keep the work and your hands clean and they will shine like new.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/A%20visit%20to%20Mothers/001_zpsf4166e88.jpg)
Here, I have a nick in the surface that the O/D of the seal mates too. I prepped the scar that I made with my new seal puller during inspection and deburr but, waited until just before installing the seal so that I could be certain of the prep and application of the sealant. Again I prefer the non-drying, oil resistant sealing compound. My seal puller may need to be dulled a scoshe right out on the tip.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/A%20visit%20to%20Mothers/002_zps10655672.jpg)
Watch for spiders left over from Halloween
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/A%20visit%20to%20Mothers/003_zps4ed5e41c.jpg)
This 1996 4 speed was an example of the stripped down heavy bikes I had ridden since the '70's. Determined to never own an EVO, I really dug the road King look in '94 (I think). I built one for myself with way more go than an EVO.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Bikes/ShovelHead_zpsf1f15ab6.jpg)
Quote from: SE Road King on November 02, 2013, 03:09:38 PM
Quote from: FSG on November 02, 2013, 12:50:48 AM
Quote from: SE Road King on November 01, 2013, 10:38:16 PM
I am working under the impression that the photos must be hosted on the web for retrieval to HTT
Yes our preference is for them to be hosted elsewhere, that way it keeps the HTT Database size down.
I can dig it. :agree:
I'll get onboard with that too. :hug:
In with the new, it is easy to see that the HPI unit is fine workmanship.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Last%20shipment/008_zpsfbed9e45.jpg)
With the new orientation of the injector the cylinder fill should be mainlining fuel when the valve opens. It is a radical change compared to the OEM position
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Last%20shipment/009_zpse44eddfa.jpg)
I would add new 50 weight oil to this list of supplies. With only a couple redundancies, you will find a use for all of these products.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/002_zps969da688.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/001_zps4009b1a9.jpg)
Ok, the new HPI throttle body is ready for use.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/006_zps66d4d826.jpg)
While only .240" larger in diameter it works out to a 23% increase of plenum area and a huge change in the injector position/orientation
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/008_zpse0358471.jpg)
The 1.800" intake runners will fill the heads plenty
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/007_zps96eb8335.jpg)
The details make it or break it...
Here every single component was cleaned, inspected and prepped. Look closely for fitment issues and burrs. The factory is terrible about letting burrs go. After a getting a pass, I'll give every thing a shot with silicon lube. It keeps the humidity from creating a coat of rust yet is not so heavy and gummy to pick up contaminates while handling. Beware that sometimes compressed air has oil and/or water as contaminates.
Note: pay close attention to the head studs and nuts, I do not use anything but virgin oil here and I clean and oil them again right before use... Check your gaskets and seals too.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/005_zps956bdd37.jpg)
The original cam choice turned out to be obsolete and a suitable replacement has been summoned. In that decision I decided the original seat pressure was high for the new cam choice and replacement springs seats and collars are in route.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Heads/001_zpseb66b663.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Heads/003_zpsd3468a16.jpg)
Thanks for enduring with the pictures, SE. Admittedly, nearly everything about which you speak is so far beyond one who has yet to change their own oil, yet even my pathetically-and-mechanically-challenged mind is able to appreciate the attentiveness to detail given to your work.
--Colt
Quote from: Colt on November 17, 2013, 01:46:30 PM
Thanks for enduring with the pictures, SE. Admittedly, nearly everything about which you speak is so far beyond one who has yet to change their own oil, yet even my pathetically-and-mechanically-challenged mind is able to appreciate the attentiveness to detail given to your work.
--Colt
If you are taking that away, I do not consider your mind to be challenged at all.
Here is one of the most disappointing things that I have witnessed on this "CVO" motorcycle
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/trans%20oil%20and%20hoses/003_zps939d6b2c.jpg)
Poor craftsmanship is a mental defect. I have had more than one leave my employ because of it. If they care, then it's a training issue. If they don't, I pay the rest of the day and send'em packing.
You can follow my rant here:
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,68156.0.html (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,68156.0.html)
Lastly here are a few supplies that are needed, I like lint-less painters quality wipes and disposable gloves
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/010_zps8ba15690.jpg)
Don't forget your home work
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/013_zpse878205b.jpg)
Good idea here!
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Supplies/014_zps0ff61e30.jpg)
I don't want to put my seat on and hit the starter only to swear "shucks ahhh slober" no battery!
I am off and running, all clearances, fitments, parts and references are laid out inspected and ready!
Dogs are fed, bills are paid,
A little bocephus to get the party started, or maybe tres hombres
The oil pan is a breeze without an engine tied in. You have a bit of room to tilt the tranny yar and fro, it sure makes it nice.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/trans%20oil%20and%20hoses/003_zps06890486.jpg)
I learned a trick from a fine engine builder in the seventies that will stop vapor leaks where bare cases are joined. We built 1 or 2 Avco/Lycomming or Contennetal aircraft engines a week with nothing more.
Bet you a coldbeer that I can stop that ugly black line that forms on top where the engine cases and tranny cases mate with only a silk string.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/trans%20oil%20and%20hoses/003_zps06890486.jpg)
Quote from: SE Road King on November 21, 2013, 09:33:58 AM
I learned a trick from a fine engine builder in the seventies that will stop vapor leaks where bare cases are joined. We built 1 or 2 Avco/Lycomming or Contennetal aircraft engines a week with nothing more.
Bet you a coldbeer that I can stop that ugly black line that forms on top where the engine cases and tranny cases mate with only a silk string.
In the 60s / 70s, I heard that using silk thread was the way to go, particularly on English bikes.. Not sure about string.. Might be too thick.. We used the stock gaskets and douched em with Gask-a-cinch..
Max
string thread :up:
Winter hold!!!
Not enough heater in the garage to fight off the 30's
Bolting the lower end in is fairly straight forward. I went back in the original location with the intention of a full alignment after I have it up and running. I did purchase and replace the front elastomer bushing engine mount.
A little touch up to take some of the years of motorcycling off of the looks...
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Frame%20ready/003_zpsbbc2ca32.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Frame%20ready/005_zpsfb0370c5.jpg)
My new exhaust required a new tranny mount and I installed a new clutch cable. Careful with the torque on the tranny end of the clutch cable or you might get to do it again. If you ever have the tranny end cap off, pull the slinger/transverse rod out for inspections. The thrust bearing and the rod are cheap (if needed) compared to the repairs if they fail. Here it is all zipped up, ready for adjustment when I get the clutch back in the drive side.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/003_zps492df31d.jpg)
Here I install the stator, Windex works well to aid getting the lead socket into the case hole. Remember to flip that lip on the back side. When pulling the connectors thru the conduit I use a long, thin wire tie to loosely join them in tandem then feed the uncut tie thru the conduit and pull with pliers.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/001_zps67ad7620.jpg)
Time for the inner primary, I did use new seals on the trans/main shaft and starter jackshaft. I use blue tape on the trans/main shaft to protect the seal from harm. The scripture is well written, use your bible here. You should put sealant on the threads of the bolts, not in the threaded holes.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/006_zpsad123131.jpg)
Check your (5) lock plate tabs and install the starter jackshaft here, this will be your last access to them without pulling the primary chain.
Shoot both the shaft threads with brake clean and the nuts as well. Use a quality thread locker that has been stored properly or is new. If this stuff comes loose it can get nasty and expensive. It is a good idea to lay out your tools and parts so that this task can go start to finish without interruption. Clutch in right hand and shaft extension in the left install the chain draped between the two. A bit of rotation-fishing may be required to get the splined shafts to line up. When I torque these two nuts I prefer for my adjuster shoe to be removed. The bottom rung of chain really tweeks the adjuster when tightening because the inside of the inner primary has a fairly radicle draft at the bottom.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/007_zps9656deff.jpg)
Setting the chain tension up sure is easy when every thing is clean and you don't have to work thru a dark hole.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/009_zps50d571f6.jpg)
A quick clutch adjustment and we move on.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/primary/010_zps99d94541.jpg)
SE Road King I'm darn sure envious of your expertise and equipment gettin this job done right! My 'Gracie' (2001 FLHR) is slated to go in for full engine re-build next month (not broken it just needs to be done with 120K on the motor)........I trust my indy completely - just wish I could watch the entire process................
Stuffing jugs is fun. Read your bible and devise a way to get flawless results.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/012_zps7e4f7701.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/011_zps322344de.jpg)
From a Carrier of 40 years in the machine and manufacturing trades I have tools that are not listed by the good book and do not intend to purchase more.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/014_zpsfb2993a3.jpg)
So here I focus on flawless results using those tools. No real secrets to withhold, don't break or scratch anything and make sure that your seals will seal.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/015_zpsea4a2ada.jpg)
I did have to make mods to my new ring compressor that would allow the jug to envelope all of the rings without bottoming on the band of the ring compressor and my parallels.
Quote from: texaskatfish on November 27, 2013, 04:51:37 AM
SE Road King I'm darn sure envious of your expertise and equipment gettin this job done right! My 'Gracie' (2001 FLHR) is slated to go in for full engine re-build next month (not broken it just needs to be done with 120K on the motor)........I trust my indy completely - just wish I could watch the entire process................
That is good mileage, for the bike that you have. When I hopped mine up in 2003 I had figured 75k maybe more, and was headed in that direction until a cam bearing let loose @ 69k. Now days folks are getting 100+k on 100HP mills regularly.
Did any of this winter BS make it down there?
that boy of yours ought to be there in the shop helping so he can pick it up.....
Great thread and entertaining write up. Appreciate the effort taken to post the pics, ya seem to have it down pat. Looking forward to the sound file of start up :wink:
Can you help me understand string theory, lol? Seriously, do you like make a gasket with the silk thread or wind a ring of thread around the dowels? :scratch:
It is real and serious business. I worked at one of (5) companies in the entire US that was certified for crank shaft grinding, rebuilding and repair. They repaired and re-ground camshafts was also a certified aircraft power plant build and rebuild facility for reciprocating piston engines under 1,000 Horse Power. Mostly Avco/Lycoming and Continental horizontally opposed 4 and 6 cylinder engines. Most of which had gaskets that were used similar to automotive gaskets. Horizontally opposed engines with engine cases that split were some times sealed with silk thread. I do not know how familiar you are with FAA policies and procedure, but there were standards for the use of silk thread for sealing. Pages of them, with lots of conditional rules. In most situations dual threads were used where the flange width supported. I was a machinist there and got to poke my head into the clean room from tine to time and learn a few things while the engine builder was fitting up power plants.
Anyway, I bought a 2002 Screaming Eagle road King and it developed a black oil stained line at the seam between the engine cases and the transmission cases. As engines got hot and cold then oil and moisture would work there was into the cavities where the engine and tranny meet, they would leave a hideous vapor line there. Some were better than others, because it had to do mostly with the surface finish that the facing cutters left behind. Later processes allowed for a finish cut at finer feed rate and leaving behind surfaces that tended not to be as troublesome. I identified in 2003 that if I used a silk thread just at the top seam then the vapor would not leave a trail at the only seam that was widely viewable.
My dealer was told not to repair any more of these warranty claims by the time that I had developed ugly eyesore on my $25,000 machine, the thread can be inserted anytime that the primary is off. I was not pleased and vowed to silk thread mine the first time I had it apart. I knew that it worked because I told as many as I could about it and they were all much happier. This was my first opportunity, so I lived with the ugly black line there for years.
Quote from: -deuced- on November 27, 2013, 06:57:09 AM
Great thread and entertaining write up. Appreciate the effort taken to post the pics, ya seem to have it down pat. Looking forward to the sound file of start up :wink:
Can you help me understand string theory, lol? Seriously, do you like make a gasket with the silk thread or wind a ring of thread around the dowels? :scratch:
For the purpose of eliminating the vapor stain that existed between my cases, I just laid a thread between the cases to seal the top seam only. I do not care if the stain appears any where else, they will not be nearly as noticed.
Quote from: wholehog on November 27, 2013, 05:24:57 AM
that boy of yours ought to be there in the shop helping so he can pick it up.....
Hopefully when he is old enough. He will be 4 in March. At least now he gets a charge out of revving the engine up and making the horn work, last year he was afraid of the bike.
He tells everyone that his grand-pa has a moracycle
...I just laid a thread between the cases to seal the top seam...
I'm guessing silk thread is about 0.002 or 0.003 and maybe not a problem on a horizontal surface but how did you hold it there while you mated the casings?
From Wiki I found the thickness of a silk strand to be approximately one denier. Denier is defined as the mass in grams per 9000 metres. So a five and a half mile long strand of silk weighs about three hundreths of an ounce. Man, that's pretty thin. I'm gunna have to get a new ruler, beesdicks and poofteenths just don't cut it no more.
I know what you mean about vapour leaks. I've used sealant in the past (fairly sparingly according to my old ruler) in other applications to prevent it but I've never worked on anything as critical as an aircraft engine.
Great thread, i have question, why didnt you install the jugs and heads before putting the motor on the bike?
I'm guessing silk thread is about 0.002 or 0.003 and maybe not a problem on a horizontal surface but how did you hold it there while you mated the casings?
[/quote]
Perhaps slightly thicker, I was an employee there in '76, '77, so I do not recall the thickness. However, I do remember that when we opened engine cases that had been sealed with silk there really was not much more than a stain where the thread had been. I am guessing that heat caused the thread to melt down and fill the valleys left from machining. The application was primarily used where the case halves where joined together providing an exact dimension for the enclosed components, (Crankshafts and/or Camshaft with pushrods and tappets come to mind)
Syliva was used to paste the tread onto case flanges, the ole timer pulled the thread from his mouth and used his thumb or finger to squeegee it as he laid it out.
A quality semi hardening gasket sealant will do the trick when the lower end was out. But, not as easily applied when only loosening the 4 case bolts and using leverage or a jack to separate the top seam.
Quote from: jclark311 on November 27, 2013, 07:55:35 PM
Great thread, i have question, why didnt you install the jugs and heads before putting the motor on the bike?
I am unable to lift any more than the lower end these days. And, I have made tools that makes installing the jugs and rocker covers a breeze,,,
Heads on and torqued to go.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/001_zpsd658b9a2.jpg)
Nice holes, with the Howitzer (HPI) Throttle Body and 1.800" intake on there I am going to be able to feed it plums or small lemons. Fruit has got to be cheaper than gasoline these days. And if I leave the fruit sit in the tank long enough I will have Sangria to go with my Fajitas on Friday nights. Killer.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/002_zps90765aa9.jpg)
Awesome
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/lungs/003_zps103e6c9a.jpg)
Quote from: SE Road King on November 27, 2013, 04:59:25 AM
Quote from: texaskatfish on November 27, 2013, 04:51:37 AM
SE Road King I'm darn sure envious of your expertise and equipment gettin this job done right! My 'Gracie' (2001 FLHR) is slated to go in for full engine re-build next month (not broken it just needs to be done with 120K on the motor)........I trust my indy completely - just wish I could watch the entire process................
That is good mileage, for the bike that you have. When I hopped mine up in 2003 I had figured 75k maybe more, and was headed in that direction until a cam bearing let loose @ 69k. Now days folks are getting 100+k on 100HP mills regularly.
Did any of this winter BS make it down there?
Well here in Katy / Houston it was only cold & wet..........this morning finally down to right at 32 but warmin into the 50s today then warmer for the weekend.
My Gracie actually is just shy of 175K on the bike (HD warranty replaced the motor at 54K when cam chain tensioner pads went south) I went back with gear drive cams and never looked back. The original clutch was still functional at 150K when we replaced it during yet another Jim's trans rpr - we've since given up on Jim's and she now has a Baker DD6 (50K / 5 yr warranty thank goodness). The swing arm broke (right at the axle which is fairly common as I've read about) at approx 120K and at that time I couldn't afford the upgrade to the 1 inch axle that appeared first in the '02 models - so I went with an OEM replacement and will get the old one repaired by a competent welder for the next time. I basically plan to just keep riding / breaking / fixing Gracie as long as I'm able to ride - the NEW bikes are beautiful I just don't like all the never ending new electronic stuff..........if cash wasn't an issue I'd even go further retro and go back to points in the ignition (something I could work on!! :wink: ) But since I'm blessed with such a great indy wrench I certainly cannot complain - we're gonna try the S&S easy start cams with this build as well.............I look forward to the completion of your ride!
Quote from: SE Road King on November 27, 2013, 04:29:53 PM
Quote from: wholehog on November 27, 2013, 05:24:57 AM
that boy of yours ought to be there in the shop helping so he can pick it up.....
Hopefully when he is old enough. He will be 4 in March. At least now he gets a charge out of revving the engine up and making the horn work, last year he was afraid of the bike.
He tells everyone that his grand-pa has a moracycle
kids are alot smarter now than when we were that age....my earliest memories are of taking things apart that my dad gave me to work on.....after a while I was able to put them back together again....never too early to get some dirt on their hands.....it's a gift that he will have all of his life
kids are alot smarter now than when we were that age....my earliest memories are of taking things apart that my dad gave me to work on.....after a while I was able to put them back together again....never too early to get some dirt on their hands.....it's a gift that he will have all of his life
[/quote]
You know that's right!
My first build was a Honda 70 engine in a go-kart, it had only 10" wheels. I went to bigger tires but that just compounded the problem... My Dad shook his head the entire time.
It just never worked out.
Here is Luke and his dad Wes and I in 2012
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Bikes/208292_1615617524996_1673071514_1154963_4322345_n1_zps4d184b93.jpg)
Luke and I made a M-2 for his arsenal this summer. This wepon will lay out 10-12 fully armored plastic Army men with one rubber band.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Bikes/LukesM-2_zpsa58ae12e.jpg)
Getting closer here, the rockers and covers are all zipped up
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Closer/004_zps73f3a6de.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Closer/005_zpse8bc53ab.jpg)
Now for a cougherator
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Closer/009_zps0d85e4c4.jpg)
Can you say Square peg in a Round Hole?
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Closer/010_zpsd7ed7ec8.jpg)
Quote from: SE Road King on November 28, 2013, 04:28:44 PM
My first build was a Honda 70 engine in a go-kart, it had only 10" wheels. I went to bigger tires but that just compounded the problem... My Dad shook his head the entire time.
It just never worked out.
Here is Luke and his dad Wes and I in 2012
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Bikes/208292_1615617524996_1673071514_1154963_4322345_n1_zps4d184b93.jpg)
that's learning him!
my 1st build was a B&S engine with a direct belt drive to a hard rubber tire on a 2x12 board go-kart.....started the engine with the drive tire up on a block.....the centrifugal force tore apart the tire hitting three of the fingers on my hand....thought that I was gonna die from the pain and ended up losing all my nails but I learned a lesson that I never forgot....I still have that board somewhere too :hyst:
Cant tell from your pics but if the rear brake line is hard tube you may want to pay close attention to the section under the corrugated plastic a few inches past the M/C...it rubs against the frame weldment and many have found it nearly rubbed through (I did)...another little "surprise" from HD
Yes I did notice the rear line, I'll hang a new one on next year along with a couple home made stand-offs to suspend the line away from the frame. Thanks.
wholehog makes a GREAT point about the rear brake line - in OEM configuration the rear brake line (covered/protected with hard plastic tubing) runs right beside the clutch cable (at least on Gracie - 2001 FLHR).........last year we had one hellovva time trying to figure out why my rear brake pedal was "going to the floor".................there was zero visible brake fluid leaking............so we tried:
bleeding
re-building the master cylinder
a NEW master cylinder
All resulted in the same condition - the pedal would stand firm as desired then less than a day later "alla way to the floor again" (and still no visible leakage)
My Indy was beside himself trying to figure this one out - so he put Gracie up on the lift once again............bled the brake to get firm pedal - then just mashed down hard on the pedal and held it down hard while he lit a ciggy.................took almost the entire cigarette then ONE tiny DROP fell on the lift *AHA!!* :idea: finally got it! Over 12 years and over 100,000 miles of using the clutch (where the cable 'flexes / moves' ever so slightly each time the clutch is pulled)............the clutch cable had rubbed through the back brake line cover and into the line itself makin a hole SO tiny it would not show a visible leak but it DID suck air..............so new rear brake line did the trick
Runs fine. Smooth and quiet. Very pleased.
Got a pesky fuel leak at the disconnect under the tank to deal with. Then I will continue with the warm ups and take her for a spin.
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/001_zpsc2a5d985.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/007_zps83d1ce0a.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/004_zps529eca5a.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/006_zps6fd97a44.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/009_zps3050c27c.jpg)
fuel QD leak....I had to pull down on the collar to get it to engage all the way
New o-ring did the trick.
Needs tune to ride. Doh!!!!!!
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/010_zpse2feeebe.jpg)
Gone are the days of switching a couple jets, now waiting to get'R tuned
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Wrap%20up/011_zps91c3bb92.jpg)
Quote from: SE Road King on December 01, 2013, 01:01:01 PM
New o-ring did the trick.
Needs tune to ride. Doh!!!!!!
Gone are the days of switching a couple jets, now waiting to get'R tuned
put a SE race tuner on it and do it yourself
Ed Smith Special '02 FLHRSEI, 105" Twin Cam-A
- Langer Performance Special set-up Balanced, pinned, welded and trued flywheel set with carillo H-rod set, w/ 4.375 stroke
- New crank bearings, left and right sides, '02 cases
- K/B forged pistons 105" KB908C-40
- +.040" Big Bore H-D cylinders
- '99 TC head castings, 88CC, 10.0:1, 183CCC, CNC Blended port, CNC Radius, stepped performance valve job, with H-D guides and seats, AV&V valves and 6000 series spring set, w/165# seat pressure
- Screaming Eagle Pro Air cleaner, w/K&N filter, head breathers plumbed to the street
- HPI 51MM throttle body with blended 1.800" intake runners, stock sensors and injectors.
- Andrews 54G cams, Corrected compression 9.01:1,( w/.04"MLS gasket and 9.86:1 static comp.)
- S&S gears set
- Ultima Billet Cam plate
- Ultima performance oil pump
- All new Cam bearings and Hardware
- AMS Hylift lifters
- Andrews easy install push rods
- S&S rocker arms
- MLS .040 head gaskets, (come on now, I have to live with the obtrusive heat down here, and my tuner)
- D&D Fat Cat 2-1 head and muff system, wrapped baffle.
- Direct Link
Sweet Sweet Music...
No Cam whine, No piston slap, No rocker ticking, No lifter chatter...
...just the rush of doomed air in and the combustion of my favorite fossil fuel thru exhaust made by the Pope of Pipe.
Engine by Ed Smith
Tuning by
Should be a good runner.
Thanks for taking us along on your build :beer:
:up: :up:
Yes thanks Ed! Nice looking scoot & once tuned should run well
BTW.. that's a well stocked bar in your man cave! :wink:
Thank you all, I've enjoyed the work. I need to get some bigger rubber up under it, so I'll be planning that after I get an oil cooler in place.
All right, finally got the bike and new engine to the tuners shop. If the weather gives me a break, then I'll gather some gear and the windshield, have a friend drop me there and ride the 50-60- miles back home. Or a hundred...
Dyno run file
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=68836.0 (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=68836.0)
Having fun with the motorcycle. Good and snappy in any run condition. Although I have not opened it up completely I do notice a greater engine advancement with minimal input at the throttle. I suppose that this difference is mostly due to the 23% growth in the throttle body plenum area. I am ok with it in the higher gears but when trying to hold steady with low speed output things are quite touchy. It will just take some getting used to. Also contributing to the willingness of the engine to advance may well be the new exhaust system, this is the first performance 2-1 system that I have owned.
I replaced the dinosaur oil at less than 150 miles, including the dyno miles. I found no significant anything in the oil or filter. My dishwasher and Dawn soap trick worked well.
Now to find a good oil cooler. I am looking at this engine guard cooler set up but finding it less credible as compared to the Jagg and Reefer Oil Coolers.
:up: congrats
QuoteI suppose that this difference is mostly due to the 23% growth in the throttle body plenum area.
Not sure what you mean here as the a plenum has volume not area.. If you said throttle blade size (or area).. I'd agree.. Bigger throttle blades make the throttle response more "touchy" as when it opens, per degree of open, it flows more air.
Max
Quote from: Max Headflow on December 21, 2013, 08:14:44 PM
QuoteI suppose that this difference is mostly due to the 23% growth in the throttle body plenum area.
Not sure what you mean here as the a plenum has volume not area.. If you said throttle blade size (or area).. I'd agree.. Bigger throttle blades make the throttle response more "touchy" as when it opens, per degree of open, it flows more air.
Max
:agree: Excellent catch, absolutely no one would have interpreted the point without this clarification.
1 question,
If one used the term "try filling your plenum with sand" or "go pound sand in your plenum" the term would have been grammatically correct as it's use is volumetric as opposed to 2-dimensional?
Quote from: SE Road King on December 23, 2013, 04:29:14 AM
Quote from: Max Headflow on December 21, 2013, 08:14:44 PM
QuoteI suppose that this difference is mostly due to the 23% growth in the throttle body plenum area.
Not sure what you mean here as the a plenum has volume not area.. If you said throttle blade size (or area).. I'd agree.. Bigger throttle blades make the throttle response more "touchy" as when it opens, per degree of open, it flows more air.
Max
:agree: Excellent catch, absolutely no one would have interpreted the point without this clarification.
1 question,
If one used the term "try filling your plenum with sand" or "go pound sand in your plenum" the term would have been grammatically correct as it's use is volumetric as opposed to 2-dimensional?
Not sure what you mean by " absolutely no one would have interpreted the point without this clarification"
I'm would think that someone trying to interpret the statement might interpreted it wrong.. Thinking that it was the volume of the that was giving the throttle response and not the throttle blade itself.. FWIW a larger plenum can slow throttle response tho I doubt it would ever be large enough on an HD to be an issue..
As far as your question goes.. Fill a plenum with sand would be a volumetric measurement.. Pounding sand in a plenum implies pressure which is sort of 2 dimensional but there is an element of force applied..
Max