Replacing the tires. Took the wheels to the local indy and got new tires mounted. Front wheel - no problem. Rear wheel = pain....
I adjust the cam on my 11RGU so the belt tension is perfect. Tighten the nut and it backs off the cam adjuster and loosens the belt. After a bunch of tightening, loosenings, I got it done.
There has to be a better way - I hope!!!
Suggestions are appreciated.
The rear wheel needs to be laden when setting.
Quote from: Coyote on February 15, 2015, 06:42:35 PM
The rear wheel needs to be laden when setting.
Yep, my evo glide manual says that the belt should be adjusted with a rider on board, so you'll have to get a buddy to do the nasty while you sit there. :bike:
I just did my rear tire on my 09 FLHR... On the side stand I want good 1/2 to 5/8 inch movement of the belt, pushed up until it is Firm. No more movement with one finger pushing up.
After a normal 1 hour ride, checking belt HOT in several positions moving bike forward, the belt moves about 3/8 of an inch Up (sitting on the side stand)
PERFECT and I have 95,000 miles on that belt setting it that way since new bike. (Old School)
signed....BUBBIE
make sure you put a wrench on the left side of the axle to hold it and then torque the right side,seems to keep the belt belt from loosening off when you tighten it.
Yeah i hold the axle nut while tightening the other, with a reference mark on both snails and swingarm.
Snail adjusters suck, poor adjusting system.
Did you try a little something a little slick between the nut and its eccentric plate?
Quote from: Coyote on February 15, 2015, 06:42:35 PM
The rear wheel needs to be laden when setting.
Some manuals says different. Mine says laden ('02) but later say in air.
I have an 11 and a 12. If you adjust the belt with the bike raised, the belt will end up loose when lowered. Never read the manual to see what it says but I know what I see. :nix:
My 00 FXDS was the same way, called for weight on the bike sitting upright. Sure was an easier and More Accurate method on that bike with the Independent adjusters... Bike could be kept Perfect In-Line and Belt running a little to the right and reverse movement the other way just to Kiss touch sides of the rear pulley. My 06 sport is that way...
Now I need 3 hands when setting and HOLDING my adjustment on the 09 King. Took a few attempts to get what I wanted... :emoGroan:
signed....BUBBIE
I know on my 09 King, the air shocks keep the adjustment better than the Movement of the regular spring shocks When two up...
Coyote:
Would you believe I have 95,800 miles on that Beauty I run?
Ha, even the manual is conflicting. Not the first mistake I've seen. Either in the air or on the jiffy stand. :idunno:
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Maybe the air shocks hold the swing arm Down as far as it will go? Think?
Not much weight to Hold Up...
signed....BUBBIE
Yep, that's probably the theory.
The manual for your 2011 Road Glide is very clear at how to measure belt tension:
With motorcycle upright and rear wheel off the ground or on jiffy stand without rider or luggage.
And you have to keep the axle from rotating. Otherwise you loose tension and have to start again:
It is important that the weld nut does not rotate once belt tension is correct.
But all was said already by others. :wink:
Karl
Quote from: Karl H. on February 16, 2015, 09:02:32 AM
The manual for your 2011 Road Glide is very clear at how to measure belt tension:
With motorcycle upright and rear wheel off the ground or on jiffy stand without rider or luggage.
And you have to keep the axle from rotating. Otherwise you loose tension and have to start again:
It is important that the weld nut does not rotate once belt tension is correct.
But all was said already by others. :wink:
Karl
That is the way I'm doing it. The adjuster cam moves and throws off the adjustment. Like said previously, you almost need three hands. Really preferred the old chain adjusters where you could adjust things properly before locking down the axel.
Was hoping that someone had a secret way of getting it done without having to have three hands:-)
Thanks all.
They make a tool to stop the cam from turning. calif phil can get it for you.
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I think Jim's makes a tool to hold the off side while you torque. I use an axle wrench on the left and a torque adapter on the nut side. Coyote beat me to the tool thing.
That thing would help.
Personally I would still back it up with a BFW.
Coyote! if it's available online...................how about a link where you can purchase the wrench to hold the off side?
Quote from: mkd on February 16, 2015, 02:42:02 PM
Coyote! if it's available online...................how about a link where you can purchase the wrench to hold the off side?
PM calif phil (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?action=profile;u=3013) -> http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?action=pm;sa=send;u=3013 (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?action=pm;sa=send;u=3013)
The tool works very well. Biggest problem is forgetting and leaving it on the bike. Jim painted his some bright color. I need to do that too.
It would seem better if when you tightened the axle nut, it was turning the cam against the stop, rather than away from it. It does tend to loosen rather easily. JMHO
But.....if a bearing fails, the axle loosens then. Just sayin'.
If the belt is loose after you torque the nut, just slip the wrench on the end of the axle and spin it to tighten the belt. The axle will still spin with a little effort after the nut is torqued. As long as the cams are against the stops when the belt is tight you are golden.
Quote from: PoorUB on February 16, 2015, 05:33:39 PM
If the belt is loose after you torque the nut, just slip the wrench on the end of the axle and spin it to tighten the belt. The axle will still spin with a little effort after the nut is torqued. As long as the cams are against the stops when the belt is tight you are golden.
That is basically what I ended up doing to get the cams against the stops and the belt tension correct. Just did not seem to be the correct thing to do but it did work.
100 ft-lbs is a fair amount of tension on the axle. How much would it move if the eccentric weren't against the stop anymore? Asked a different way, do you have the axle tight enough if you're relying on the adjustment stops?
post # 6 nailed it. worked for me.
02
Quote from: glens on February 17, 2015, 04:41:23 AM
100 ft-lbs is a fair amount of tension on the axle. How much would it move if the eccentric weren't against the stop anymore? Asked a different way, do you have the axle tight enough if you're relying on the adjustment stops?
100# is spec.
I painted mine after I left it on a bike. :cry: Lucky for me it was still on there 10,000 miles later when he returned for another rear tire.
I thought it was silly and unnecessary until I bought one and used it for the first time.
Quote from: calif phil on February 17, 2015, 06:41:25 AMI painted mine after I left it on a bike. :cry: Lucky for me it was still on there 10,000 miles later when he returned for another rear tire. I thought it was silly and unnecessary until I bought one and used it for the first time.
Put me in the unnecessary camp but I am going give the tool a try. My problem has always been the cam on the right side rotating away from the stop when applying the last 10-20 foot pounds while holding the weld nut with an axel wrench; the weld nut never turns. I have also tried polishing the surface of the cam adjustor and the nut as well as a coat of cam lube to allow the surfaces to slip on one another but nothing works. I usually end up striking the right side cam adjustor with a dead blow hammer to get my index mark aligned. :embarrassed: My is a '02 FLHT but for what guys are spending for a '15 model, one would think that the mother ship engineers could come up with a better system. :unsure:
Absolutely!
I don't go by Torque on MY bike. (09 King) I TIGHTEN the sucker... No movement then ....Bearings are Good and NO damage Yet...
Gotta remember QUICK starting and stopping CAN move the adjuster IF you are one of THEM Riders that don't tighten Enough.
I was told this for FREE by a HD tech. I do Believe it. SO I go Axle Nut TIGHT...
signed.... BUBBIE
After having the adjuster slip on my Ultra, and yes, I beat on it a bit, I do two things that has helped. First, I put valve lapping compound under the adjuster cams, hoping the extra friction will hold it, plus I torque the axle to 125 ftlbs. It has not slipped since
And the wheel still turns with ease?
Quote from: PoorUB on February 18, 2015, 06:52:14 PM
After having the adjuster slip on my Ultra, and yes, I beat on it a bit, I do two things that has helped. First, I put valve lapping compound under the adjuster cams, hoping the extra friction will hold it, plus I torque the axle to 125 ftlbs. It has not slipped since
The only issue that might arise from over torque is the bearing may press in farther and start to compress the spacer and put the bearing out of proper alignment. This used to happen with the old tapered bearings causing you to lose free play. Apple to oranges I know...
That's what I had in mind. Too much preload on the bearings if the spacers are not perfect.
Quote from: clawdog60 on February 19, 2015, 11:59:15 AM
That's what I had in mind. Too much preload on the bearings if the spacers are not perfect.
Ever had a 2009+ wheel part? The spacer is 3/8" - 1/2" longer than the step in the hub. I started with the 125 pound torque on my '05 with no issues and have 71,000 on my 2010 and no issues. Pretty sure it is working out.
Well, that's pretty definitive isn't it. :up:
Maybe add a bright orange flex cable to the tool like some rotor locks have.