HarleyTechTalk

Technical Forums => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Roadflyer on January 13, 2020, 10:21:11 AM

Title: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 13, 2020, 10:21:11 AM
The bike is a 2016 Road King that I bought with about 10000 miles on it.

I rode it the first season as I got it with an se air cleaner and street canons. I recall there was some ticking but I  thought it was just rocker shafts and didn't worry too much.
Later on, I installed rock outs and it didn't improve at all.

When I had the heads done and installed the 110 drop in cylinders and Andrews 54's with hylift lifters, I noticed that a couple of the rocker shafts were still loose despite having the rock outs installed. I removed the shafts and ground a new much smaller relief 180 deg from the original and made sure each rocker shaft was snug with the rocker bolts installed.
(there is no way those shafts can rock now).

The base circle on the 54's is the same as stock, the heads were decked .010", the cylinders were decked .015"
and I'm running a .025 head gasket, so there must be plenty of lifter preload with the stock pushrods.

The bike runs great and is totally quiet when cold, as soon as I ride it about a mile it starts to tick.
When fully warmed up, it will tick quite badly. It would be loud at 1950 rpm, go away completely at 2200 and be right back at 2400. The noise will present itself exactly the same every time I ride the bike.
It got so bad on a hot day on the highway, that I thought the bike was coming apart.
I tried 20-60 dino oil and it was somewhat better for 50 miles then back to the same.

I decided to try another set of cams / lifters, so I dropped in a pair of Feuling 543's and the original stock lifters.

I would say the the ticking is about half of what it was with the 54's and hylifts, but, the weird thing is that the
ticking now happens at about 2200 rpm and it now quiet at 1950 and 2400 rpm where it used to be quiet!!!

My thought are, that this must be valve spring harmonics ??
If this is true, why don't all the bikes do it? Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree?
I will ad, that the heads were done by HDSP.

Your thoughts?






Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 13, 2020, 10:27:13 AM
The bike is a 2016 Road King that I bought with about 10000 miles on it.

I rode it the first season as I got it with an se air cleaner and street canons. I recall there was some ticking but I  thought it was just rocker shafts and didn't worry too much.
Later on, I installed rock outs and it didn't improve at all.

When I had the heads done and installed the 110 drop in cylinders and Andrews 54's with hylift lifters, I noticed that a couple of the rocker shafts were still loose despite having the rock outs installed. I removed the shafts and ground a new much smaller relief 180 deg from the original and made sure each rocker shaft was snug with the rocker bolts installed.
(there is no way those shafts can rock now).

The base circle on the 54's is the same as stock, the heads were decked .010", the cylinders were decked .015"
and I'm running a .025 head gasket, so there must be plenty of lifter preload with the stock pushrods.

The bike runs great and is totally quiet when cold, as soon as I ride it about a mile it starts to tick.
When fully warmed up, it will tick quite badly. It would be loud at 1950 rpm, go away completely at 2200 and be right back at 2400. The noise will present itself exactly the same every time I ride the bike.
It got so bad on a hot day on the highway, that I thought the bike was coming apart.
I tried 20-60 dino oil and it was somewhat better for 50 miles then back to the same.

I decided to try another set of cams / lifters, so I dropped in a pair of Feuling 543's and the original stock lifters.

I would say the the ticking is about half of what it was with the 54's and hylifts, but, the weird thing is that the
ticking now happens at about 2200 rpm and it now quiet at 1950 and 2400 rpm where it used to be quiet!!!

My thought are, that this must be valve spring harmonics ??
If this is true, why don't all the bikes do it? Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree?
I will ad, that the heads were done by HDSP.

Your thoughts?


Sorry. With the 543's its quiet at 1950 and 2400 rpm where it used to be at its worst with the 54's
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: 1workinman on January 13, 2020, 10:47:31 AM
When i bought the 12 street glide from a dealer used checked out ready to all a bad idea it started a noise ticking in less than 500 miles after i bought it on the way ride the dragon . I rememeber it sounded like a lifter at first . Turned out to be a rod going south . The POS was my last stock harley lol . I rode it back ticking it got worse . I would have had it towed but it mad and i rode it back raising hell .
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Jamie Long on January 13, 2020, 12:18:58 PM
If you are using the stock pushrods how did you establish/verify proper length? what are you using for valves & springs?
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hillside Motorcycle on January 14, 2020, 03:50:59 AM
I'd suggest to start by loading the lifters to .140-.150", if you have not.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 14, 2020, 07:43:08 AM
If you are using the stock pushrods how did you establish/verify proper length? what are you using for valves & springs?

HDSP used the stock springs and AV&V valves 1.9" and 1.575" with bronze guides.

Respectfully, I ask. As long as there is plenty of preload and the lifters are not bottomed out, what does it matter what the preload is?
I don't know what the preload is. I do know its considerably more that the way it came from the factory and the lifters are not bottomed out.
I had adjustable pushrods on my 2005 RK, It had very light valve noise when hot with Andrews 54's.
I tried setting the lifters at various depths and it never made a spot of difference where I set them.
That's why I decided to stick with stock pushrods on this build.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hossamania on January 14, 2020, 08:51:59 AM
Are there any witness marks on the rocker boxes?
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: jsachs1 on January 14, 2020, 02:25:24 PM
You mentioned that the heads were done and the valves were changed. Valve Protrusion change (valve installed height) will affect push rod length requirement. :oops:
John
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 14, 2020, 02:53:04 PM
Are there any witness marks on the rocker boxes?

No, there are no marks on the rocker boxes.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 14, 2020, 03:36:43 PM
You mentioned that the heads were done and the valves were changed. Valve Protrusion change (valve installed height) will affect push rod length requirement. :oops:
John

I don't get where the "oops" was? Yes, valve protrusion will affect lifter plunger depth, as will the heads and barrels being decked. I didn't have anything to actually measure the plunger depth, but I'm pretty confident by visually checking it was no less than .120" and nowhere near the .200" that bottoms the plunger.

I'm not sure that throwing a $200 set of adjustable pushrods in and setting them to the magical number of .140"
is going to get rid of any noise.

Neither will replacing the lifters with the current lifter of the month.
Or replacing the oil with somebody"s cure all formula.

I find the fact that the bike runs perfectly quiet cold, and when warm it runs quiet at some rpm's but noisy at others a bit odd.
The noise is neither throttle or load sensitive, its always there at certain rpms.
It's maybe half as bad with the 543's as it was with the 54's, but happens at different rpm's.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Coyote on January 14, 2020, 03:50:19 PM
FWIW, and I suspect not much, there's no way I'd not be using adjustable PR's in your case.  If I read everything correctly, you really have no idea where you're at.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: kd on January 14, 2020, 05:30:44 PM
Check your rocker stand bolts for witness marks from contacting the flat on the rocker shaft when it rocks back and forth while running.  If the noise is between 2,000 and 3,500 after it is up to temp, it is very likely that's the problem.  The marks will look like () only 90 degrees from this pic at the same height / depth as the rocker shaft.  Curve up and curve down.  If you see that you are likely on to it.  There are ways to fix it but the easiest is a set of Rockout Rocker Lock sleeves.  Visit our vendor section and you'll find them under that name.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hossamania on January 14, 2020, 07:23:27 PM
kd, in the op, he mentioned that Rocker Lockers are installed and made no difference.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: kd on January 14, 2020, 07:55:30 PM
 :oops:  Itís been a tough day.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Bimmer on January 14, 2020, 08:59:43 PM
  Wheres your squish set at??? are you at 0 deck hieght?? does the motor tick on decell also?  Man your running pretty tight clearance .025 head gasket. if your zero deck that piston is probally touching as it rocks off the comp stroke cycle, seen it a few times on builds, i believe you have pretty much eliminate lifter noise,   Piston too head contact or valve to piston,  but im leaning piston to head contact. its a subtle tick cold an as motor warms it gets noisier.People would think it would sound more like a knock, Not if its just barely touching. tick. it will drive ya nuts, Chasing lifter noise.Good Luck.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hillside Motorcycle on January 15, 2020, 04:22:21 AM
FWIW, and I suspect not much, there's no way I'd not be using adjustable PR's in your case.  If I read everything correctly, you really have no idea where you're at.
 

I agree. :up:
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: jsachs1 on January 15, 2020, 02:19:43 PM
You mentioned that the heads were done and the valves were changed. Valve Protrusion change (valve installed height) will affect push rod length requirement. :oops:
John

I don't get where the "oops" was? Yes, valve protrusion will affect lifter plunger depth, as will the heads and barrels being decked. I didn't have anything to actually measure the plunger depth, but I'm pretty confident by visually checking it was no less than .120" and nowhere near the .200" that bottoms the plunger

I'm not sure that throwing a $200 set of adjustable pushrods in and setting them to the magical number of .140"
is going to get rid of any noise.

Neither will replacing the lifters with the current lifter of the month.
Or replacing the oil with somebody"s cure all formula.

I find the fact that the bike runs perfectly quiet cold, and when warm it runs quiet at some rpm's but noisy at others a bit odd.
The noise is neither throttle or load sensitive, its always there at certain rpms.
It's maybe half as bad with the 543's as it was with the 54's, but happens at different rpm's.
The oops means, did you check or know what the installed height of all 4 valves are. In today's age "close enough" don't cut it.  Carry on. :banghead:
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: jsachs1 on January 15, 2020, 02:32:49 PM
  Wheres your squish set at??? are you at 0 deck hieght?? does the motor tick on decell also?  Man your running pretty tight clearance .025 head gasket. if your zero deck that piston is probally touching as it rocks off the comp stroke cycle, seen it a few times on builds, i believe you have pretty much eliminate lifter noise,   Piston too head contact or valve to piston,  but im leaning piston to head contact. its a subtle tick cold an as motor warms it gets noisier.People would think it would sound more like a knock, Not if its just barely touching. tick. it will drive ya nuts, Chasing lifter noise.Good Luck.
FWIW, If you have a flat top piston, in a sleeved aluminum cylinder, just touching the deck of the head, like .010", as the engine warms up the cylinders will grow, and the noise will disappear. That's a fact.  :up:
John
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: kd on January 15, 2020, 02:42:27 PM
 :agree:
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Dogbone45ACP on January 15, 2020, 05:16:45 PM
Have you talked to Don at HDSP ? He maybe able to shed some light on the ticking.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hossamania on January 15, 2020, 05:20:24 PM
Pushrods hitting the tubes?
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Propflux01 on January 15, 2020, 06:28:38 PM
If the pushrods are hitting the tubes, what is the fix?
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: kd on January 15, 2020, 06:45:14 PM
There's 2 things you can do. The first is to bore the top tube out to 5/8" about 1 1/2 " deep from the top.  that gives the pushrod a titch more clearance and that is usually enough to  make a difference.  The other you can't do if you have rocker Lockers.  Take of the rocker cover and loosen the rocker stand fasteners,  sight down on the pushrod tubes and re-position the rocker stand to where the pushrod is most centered in the tube.  Usually that means pulling it to the right side of the engine.  Snug the bolts, roll the engine over and watch them to be sure you have the sweet spot and torque to spec.  If you have Rocker Lockers they won't move because the brass sleeves tighten the fit to the rocker stand fasteners and keep them centered.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Coyote on January 15, 2020, 07:00:44 PM
OR you can install good, adjustable tapered PR's, which should have been done anyways, IMO, and there you go.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: rageglide on January 15, 2020, 08:03:19 PM
At least with adjustables you'll know what the preload is, which at this point you are only guessing.  If you really want a solid pushrod, size them with a spare adjustable then have customs built.

If these are oem lifters then all bets are off, imo.  The loose tolerances make them spongy.

Have you ever tried running without an air cleaner?  Some cams are more prone to rattling the throttle plate which in turn rattles the gears in the throttle body.  Cams like Andrews 57h rattle it hard enough to make a clucking sound which doesn't sound like what you are dealing with.  The noise occurs in the RPM range you're talking about.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 06:34:49 AM
  Wheres your squish set at??? are you at 0 deck hieght?? does the motor tick on decell also?  Man your running pretty tight clearance .025 head gasket. if your zero deck that piston is probally touching as it rocks off the comp stroke cycle, seen it a few times on builds, i believe you have pretty much eliminate lifter noise,   Piston too head contact or valve to piston,  but im leaning piston to head contact. its a subtle tick cold an as motor warms it gets noisier.People would think it would sound more like a knock, Not if its just barely touching. tick. it will drive ya nuts, Chasing lifter noise.Good Luck.

Squish was set to .025" with zero decked pistons and .025 head gasket. I borescoped the cylinders after a couple thousand miles and thought I could see a light contact area near the decompression valve.
I took the heads off and slightly relieved the suspect area and reinstalled the heads with .045 head gaskets.
The ticking remained exactly the same.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 06:42:39 AM
Pushrods hitting the tubes?

I never saw any marks when I looked them over.
I bought a mechanics stethoscope and will give that a try when I get back home in the spring.
It's a 2 person job, it's difficult to hold the throttle exactly where the problem rpm's are.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 06:53:41 AM
You mentioned that the heads were done and the valves were changed. Valve Protrusion change (valve installed height) will affect push rod length requirement. :oops:
John

I don't get where the "oops" was? Yes, valve protrusion will affect lifter plunger depth, as will the heads and barrels being decked. I didn't have anything to actually measure the plunger depth, but I'm pretty confident by visually checking it was no less than .120" and nowhere near the .200" that bottoms the plunger

I'm not sure that throwing a $200 set of adjustable pushrods in and setting them to the magical number of .140"
is going to get rid of any noise.

Neither will replacing the lifters with the current lifter of the month.
Or replacing the oil with somebody"s cure all formula.

I find the fact that the bike runs perfectly quiet cold, and when warm it runs quiet at some rpm's but noisy at others a bit odd.
The noise is neither throttle or load sensitive, its always there at certain rpms.
It's maybe half as bad with the 543's as it was with the 54's, but happens at different rpm's.
The oops means, did you check or know what the installed height of all 4 valves are. In today's age "close enough" don't cut it.  Carry on. :banghead:

I seriously doubt that Don Dorfman would send out a finished product that was not "ready to go", he knew every detail of what I was building.
His question sheet about build details is very comprehensive.
I have the spec sheets at home with all the details regarding valve protrusion and installed height, just don't recall the details at this time and won't be home for 2 months.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 06:58:19 AM
Have you talked to Don at HDSP ? He maybe able to shed some light on the ticking.

Not yet.
I want to stethoscope it to try and narrow down the possibilities before I bother him.
At this point I can only hear the noise when I riding the bike, its pretty hard to hold the throttle at the perfect rpm when in neutral and crouched down beside the bike. (gonna need a helper with a steady hand)
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Hossamania on January 16, 2020, 07:03:43 AM
Good luck, hope it's something simple. Follow up on your findings.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 07:14:39 AM
At least with adjustables you'll know what the preload is, which at this point you are only guessing.  If you really want a solid pushrod, size them with a spare adjustable then have customs built.

If these are oem lifters then all bets are off, imo.  The loose tolerances make them spongy.

Have you ever tried running without an air cleaner?  Some cams are more prone to rattling the throttle plate which in turn rattles the gears in the throttle body.  Cams like Andrews 57h rattle it hard enough to make a clucking sound which doesn't sound like what you are dealing with.  The noise occurs in the RPM range you're talking about.

The 543's with oem lifters was half as loud as the 54's with hylifts, so go figure???
I will say, that the the hylifts are pressure fed from the side and purge any air pretty quickly.
The OEM lifters get oiled from the top and take a really long time to purge. (maybe 5 miles)
Despite the general consensus that OEM are crap, when I had both sets apart, the OEM seemed to be closer and more consistent clearances than the Hylifts.

As for intake noise. The noise is there even with the throttle closed and coasting downhill, so unless I'm wrong, I don't think its intake noise.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 07:23:50 AM
Good luck, hope it's something simple. Follow up on your findings.

Thank you!
I'll scope it when I get back in the spring. Measure my lifter preload and report to all.
Check HDSP's valve protrusion and installed height on the spec sheet he provided and report that as well.

My wife is a really good sport when it comes to helping me in the garage (mechanics Daughter).
I'm just not sure she can hold the throttle at exactly 2200 rpm so I can check things with the stethoscope.
I might have to wait until my buddy gets back a month later.

Now, if I wanted to shop for adjustable's, which would be the one's to look for?
Can I use the stock pushrod tubes that came on my 2016?  (my other bikes had adjustables already installed)
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: koko3052 on January 16, 2020, 07:50:37 AM
Smith Bros. is the only place I go for any pushrods!
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: kd on January 16, 2020, 08:39:58 AM
 :agree:  Look at the tapered offerings and consider calling them to confirm your choice.  I can't remember the fella by name but one of the employees is a Harley expert and was responsible for the development of the selection you will be looking at.  Ask for him.  As far as the tubes, many of us bore the tops to 5/8" when we have them off anyway.   The crimp effectively closes in the inside diameter and the OEM sizing is so borderline (especially with higher than OEM lift cams) that it is worth the effort (which is minimal).  Search the site and you will see pics of the process.

Here's one I found quickly ....

  https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,62558.msg668937.html#msg668937
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: HD Street Performance on January 16, 2020, 10:05:20 AM
You would be best served to ask me directly. I am happy to help and do stand behind my products sold and services. This is done on the phone, old school I know. I dont have time for long emails. I don't ever recommend exact fit pushrods and after the head stack is altered and end users don't usually check the correct size needed with adjustables. That is the way to spec. fixed length pushrods.
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 10:24:05 AM
You would be best served to ask me directly. I am happy to help and do stand behind my products sold and services. This is done on the phone, old school I know. I dont have time for long emails. I don't ever recommend exact fit pushrods and after the head stack is altered and end users don't usually check the correct size needed with adjustables. That is the way to spec. fixed length pushrods.

I've never thought the problem was your product and openly supported your procedures.
But while your here, Does your street port Pro package retain stock valve train geometry or is it altered depending on valve lift intended? (mine was Andrews 54's).
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: HD Street Performance on January 16, 2020, 12:10:37 PM
The protrusion was slightly increased over stock to compensate for the higher lift. The head package supports up to .6 lift as stated on my site. In my opinion. 025 is too close on the squish but you say it is not hitting? Ok. I shoot for .030+ not -
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: rageglide on January 16, 2020, 02:38:24 PM
The 543's with oem lifters was half as loud as the 54's with hylifts, so go figure???
I will say, that the the hylifts are pressure fed from the side and purge any air pretty quickly.
The OEM lifters get oiled from the top and take a really long time to purge. (maybe 5 miles)
Despite the general consensus that OEM are crap, when I had both sets apart, the OEM seemed to be closer and more consistent clearances than the Hylifts.

As for intake noise. The noise is there even with the throttle closed and coasting downhill, so unless I'm wrong, I don't think its intake noise.

All hydraulic lifters are oiled from the side.  Maybe you mean the hylifts oil the roller with a port.   I find the C lifters to be spongy and bleed down easily, which you then hear the next day while they refill.  But sounds like you are using Hy-Lifts now.

543 ramps may be milder than 54, I am not familiar with that cam.  Really fast ramps can make even excellent lifters make some noise.   But after a quick look at fuelings description... I'd say it's starting to make a lot more sense.  Andrews cams typically use a faster ramp.

543 CAMS - The 'Freeway Flyer', a great camshaft for those who want more top end power than our 525 cam without sacrificing low end torque. Extremely smooth cam lobe layout maintains quiet valve-train and produces the smoothest cruise power band available. Excellent bolt in camshaft for stock to mild 96" and 103" engines and works well in 88" & 95" engines. This cam is easy starting, increases throttle response and fuel mileage. Responds well to increased compression ratio, performance exhaust and a high flow air cleaner. Performance valve springs are required on �99-�04 engines and performance pushrods and lifters are recommended but not required. RPM 1,900 - 6,000

Intake noise that rattles the actuator gears is due to closed or partially closed throttle plate.  Think high vacuum pulses.  But, throttle plate noise is going to be there cold or hot... so not likely your problem.   If you had a 57h then I would say you absolutely would have it... but you would know because it's pretty damned obvious.

BTW you need to get a pushrod tube kit, shorter lower tubes and longer clips, to use adjustables without a huge amount of swearing (if you can even get to the adjuster.)
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 02:43:33 PM
The protrusion was slightly increased over stock to compensate for the higher lift. The head package supports up to .6 lift as stated on my site. In my opinion. 025 is too close on the squish but you say it is not hitting? Ok. I shoot for .030+ not -

Replaced the head gaskets just in case, it's .045" now
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Roadflyer on January 16, 2020, 02:53:29 PM
The 543's with oem lifters was half as loud as the 54's with hylifts, so go figure???
I will say, that the the hylifts are pressure fed from the side and purge any air pretty quickly.
The OEM lifters get oiled from the top and take a really long time to purge. (maybe 5 miles)
Despite the general consensus that OEM are crap, when I had both sets apart, the OEM seemed to be closer and more consistent clearances than the Hylifts.

As for intake noise. The noise is there even with the throttle closed and coasting downhill, so unless I'm wrong, I don't think its intake noise.

All hydraulic lifters are oiled from the side.  Maybe you mean the hylifts oil the roller with a port.   I find the C lifters to be spongy and bleed down easily, which you then hear the next day while they refill.  But sounds like you are using Hy-Lifts now.

543 ramps may be milder than 54, I am not familiar with that cam.  Really fast ramps can make even excellent lifters make some noise.   But after a quick look at fuelings description... I'd say it's starting to make a lot more sense.  Andrews cams typically use a faster ramp.

543 CAMS - The 'Freeway Flyer', a great camshaft for those who want more top end power than our 525 cam without sacrificing low end torque. Extremely smooth cam lobe layout maintains quiet valve-train and produces the smoothest cruise power band available. Excellent bolt in camshaft for stock to mild 96" and 103" engines and works well in 88" & 95" engines. This cam is easy starting, increases throttle response and fuel mileage. Responds well to increased compression ratio, performance exhaust and a high flow air cleaner. Performance valve springs are required on �99-�04 engines and performance pushrods and lifters are recommended but not required. RPM 1,900 - 6,000

Intake noise that rattles the actuator gears is due to closed or partially closed throttle plate.  Think high vacuum pulses.  But, throttle plate noise is going to be there cold or hot... so not likely your problem.   If you had a 57h then I would say you absolutely would have it... but you would know because it's pretty damned obvious.

BTW you need to get a pushrod tube kit, shorter lower tubes and longer clips, to use adjustables without a huge amount of swearing (if you can even get to the adjuster.)

I picked the 543's because of feulings claims of quiet valvetrain.
Yes, they are quieter than the Andrews 54's for sure, or are oem lifters quieter that Hylifts?

Thanks for the tip on the pushrod tubes, both of my other bikes had adjustables when I bought them.
As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of adjustables. The threads were slightly marred on my other bikes and yes, there was some swearing going on!!!
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: rageglide on January 16, 2020, 03:58:15 PM

I picked the 543's because of feulings claims of quiet valvetrain.
Yes, they are quieter than the Andrews 54's for sure, or are oem lifters quieter that Hylifts?

Thanks for the tip on the pushrod tubes, both of my other bikes had adjustables when I bought them.
As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of adjustables. The threads were slightly marred on my other bikes and yes, there was some swearing going on!!!

If you aren't careful with some of the adjustables you can deform the threads when there are flats on the threaded portion.  Adjusters with 40tpi are more delicate, most have 24 or 32tpi.  Just be careful to not apply force with the wrench used on the adjuster portion and you'll be ok.  Avoid loctite as well...
Title: Re: Another ticking 103 post, your opinions pls.
Post by: Coyote on January 16, 2020, 04:00:31 PM
Avoid loctite as well...

 :up: