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Shovel Head / Re: 74 in bolt in cam recommendation
« Last post by Trouble on Yesterday at 12:54:13 PM »
Last I remember, Andrews made a decent cam or two that was good for down-low torque and added horsepower. I would add : read the description carefully.
General / Re: Bagger front end help
« Last post by Tacocaster on Yesterday at 12:34:47 PM »
You've got your priorities right. Do what you can for your Dad and all the best for him!
General / Re: 03 Ultra starter re-build
« Last post by Fugawee on Yesterday at 12:31:30 PM »
Well, this is the 2nd time trying to respond...Don't ask Me where the 1st one went. ???  Beats Me...Anyway...
I have a 94'FLHTC, and an 03' FLHTCUI; that I have had a couple of Starting Issues with over the Years.

What was the Problem that caused You to rebuild the Starter?         Same Problem as now?

If You haven't already, Try giving This a Shot...

1=Find a piece of Heavy Gauge, Single Conductor Wire, about 8 to 12 inches long; 6,8,10,or 12 Gauge.  Preferably Copper.
    Strip approx. 3/4" of Insulation/Sheath off of each end, if any.  Bend the Wire like a "Horseshoe".

2=Remove the Small Wire from the Connector on the Starter.  Get it out of Your way, and clear of the Pipes.  That is the Wire coming from
    Your "Start" button, So to Speak.
    Lift up the Rubber Boot on the Large Black Cable to gain access to the Post.  Leave the Cable alone.  That is the "Hot" coming from
    the Battery.

3=Make Sure that the Bike is in Neutral.  Double Check that the Bike is in Neutral.

4=Turn On the Main Power at the Key Ignition Switch.  Turn On the "Run" Switch at the Handlebar Control.

5=Take one End of the "Horseshoe" Wire, and place/hold it on the "Hot" on the Starter.  Touch/Tap the other end of the "Horseshoe" to
     the Connector that You removed the Small Wire from.
     If Your Bike Turns Over like it normally would; or Starts...You have proven that the Battery and the Starter should be OK.

     This should prove that Your problem is "Back" towards the Main Source of Starter Power.
     That could be the "Start" button or Wiring, or a Bad Relay.  A wire could be pinched at or around the Handlebar Start Button Housing,
     or elsewhere.
    If You use a Volt/Ohm One Lead on a Known Ground, and the Other Lead to the Wire that You removed from the Starter.
    With the Power On, and the Run Button On...Press the "Start" Button.  If You see any Reading on the Meter, whether Analog or Digital;
    when Hitting the Start Button; that should prove that You are OK from the Start Button to that End of the Wire.
    If You see nothing...the Problem is between the Small Wire, and the Start Button, which again can be a Wiring Problem, the Button, or
    a Relay.  A Wire or Switch can be "Open", or Broken somewhere.
    If You saw some form of Resistance on that Wire, BEFORE You Hit the Start Button, that may prove that there is a problem from that
    Wire as well.  It could be Grounded, Short Circuit, etc.

    If Your Bike did not Turn Over, or Start using the "Horseshoe", You could have a problem with, or from the Battery; and/or the Starter
    itself, or the Internal Components of the Starter.  Possibly, inside the Primary Cover as well.
    Check the Large Battery Cables.  Cables have been known to corrode on the inside, under the sheath.  Visually looking at them You
    may think that they are OK.  A "Wiggle" test, or removing the Cables and looking at them with a Volt/Ohm Meter for "Resistance"
    may tell a different story.

    You can try the Test from the Wire on the Starter back to the Button first.  Whatever You find easier for Yourself.  Your the Boss.
    You can also remove the Spark Plugs, if You do not want to have a chance of the Bike actually starting.  You should be able to tell
    if it will start or not.
    Do though, make 100% certain that the Bike is in Neutral.  Ask Me why I stress this point.
    And don't forget to Re-install the Small Wire back on the Connector at the Starter, if and when You find Your problem.
    Ask Me how I know about that also.

    I have kept one of those "Horseshoes" in all of My Bikes Saddlebags for years.  It has saved many a Stranded Biker.  Myself Included.
    I keep one in My "Electrical" Toolbox as well.  There good to have, and an in-expensive Troubleshooting Tool.
    This type of Test works on just about all HD's with Electric Starts.  Softails can prove to be a Pain in the Ass, because of the Oil Tank
    Location.  But, it can be done.
    I hope that this Helps You, and that I didn't offer something that You may already know.  Good Luck!

General / Re: Bagger front end help
« Last post by Chief0299 on Yesterday at 11:49:53 AM »
No changes... but also no work performed yet either. Im my fathers caregiver and he was admitted to the hospital for some things. Then caught covid at the hospital. The kraus rear adjusters are on order.

Gotta wait for pops to get out of hospital and for life to return to normal. Ill post what changes I do and any results.

The Welcome Forum (Contact Us) / Re: From Michigan.
« Last post by SixShooter14 on Yesterday at 11:49:46 AM »
Howdy, welcome from Montana
Shovel Head / 74 in bolt in cam recommendation
« Last post by 1stop on Yesterday at 11:34:36 AM »
would like suggestions on bolt in cam for stock 74 in cam. (early model) low end torque preferred. going to run a 2-1 baffled ex. thanks
Shovel Head / Re: Valve Guides
« Last post by Ohio HD on Yesterday at 11:28:33 AM »
What I always found with Shovels was not so much added compression, although that helps, but added cubic inches to use the large butt ports and a hot rod cam.
Shovel Head / Re: Valve Guides
« Last post by JW113 on Yesterday at 11:09:19 AM »
Amen to that. When I rebuilt mine, I used a Crane 288. A somewhat tame cam by most standards. The bike had almost no throttle response from about 1/2 to WFO. I put the stock "H" cam back in, what a difference. All I could figure is those huge valves and even huger ports don't like a lot of cam duration.

General / Re: piston skirts
« Last post by FLDavetrain on Yesterday at 11:01:33 AM »

     Thanks for the replies. Iíve read the article and others. Knowing the pros and cons, trying to get an idea quantitatively how much a long stroke TC motor would differ power wise between these 2 style skirts in the same application. Is the slipper type good for 3/3, 5/5, 10/10?? Or is it to benign to measure?
Shovel Head / Re: Drilled Brake Calipers
« Last post by JW113 on Yesterday at 10:56:39 AM »
Indeed. I'd put that in the "exercise in futility" category...

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