What is your guys thoughts on DRY clutch plates in a sealed primary?

[Mule]

 I know original shovel clutch plates were dry type and with the spit and suck stock type oiling they are considered a dry clutch. I have a new set of Barnett DRY friction plates I was wanting to use in a sealed primary case.  Is this going to be a problem with sticking chattering etc or will they be okay?

[DresserDan]

When sealing the primary how much oil should be used? Any oil or?? ATF type F? Got a bud who had his shovel just done and it acts like the plates are sticking together. New dry plates.

[Mule]

 That's why the question!  I run Trick shift in my Shovel 16-18 oz, but it has a pro clutch and that's what's recommended for it. If I put more oil than the 16-18 ounces it starts acting funny harder to shift and find neutral etc. This current question is for repair and clutch replacement on a 78 FXE, That the guy put a larger solid sprocket on and ran the primary dry! It pretty much fried everything, the steel plates were blue from the heat! So Everything is getting replaced, I have the new Barnett plates, I was just wondering if they are going to work or if I need a new set of plates the run wet/dry type.

[76shuvlinoff]

It's been a long time since I've been in there but you run just enough lube (I use Redline MTL) to touch the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike vertical. I don't think it's more than 8 oz.  16 year old Rivera Pro in mine with nearly 30K miles on it. The bike has mostly sat for the last 4 years. I better peek in that primary.....

[Mule]

Answer from Barnet
info (info@barnettcables.com)
To:you Details
Ok, but the instructions are the same.  By soaking the plates, you won't have any high spots on the plates.
These instructions have been the same for this model and problem.  The clutch will work well.

And had you told me it was our old HDP-4 plates I could have verified it at the time.  Yes, the HDP04 number was a part number we used for years until we went to the bar coded numbers.