Daytona twin tec woes

[waltcentral]

  Last weekend I was planning on having the 83 FLH back on the road. In setting up the Daytona TwinTec 1005  I apparently knocked one of the magnets off the hall effect sensors and had to order a new uni. I started back again today installing the new control unit. I still cannot set static timing.
When I called Daytona last week for support I also asked them why I was getting 12 volts at the center connector (battery volts) and also 12 volts of secondary or trigger pins for front and rear cylinders. Tech support said I could have a wiring problem.  While I was waiting for the new control unit I checked all the wiring and can find no problem.
  ***I am still getting 12 volts across all the connectors****
  I think I have a bad single fire coil. 
  I am going to install the dual fire coil from the Dyna S and see if I can set static timing right now.

It seems all to lead to a issue with the coil,   Any help?

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

It's not unheard of having a defective part right out of the Box. Personally, I have issues as well with the Twin-Tec on setting the static timing unless I'm replacing one and I mark the set points. There are numerous that have LED indicators that "get you in the ballpark". And, who doesn't love getting soaked with oil doing the final timing.

[waltcentral]

OK I installed  my Dyna dual fire coil and same results. white wire and White Black wire from ignition connected to one terminal and pink wire to another. Tried to rotate the module to turn the red light on and off and nothing.
I wonder if the module is getting a good ground. When I had the Dyna S on there is said in the instructions to hold the ignition plate against the nose cone to make good contact. Along with everything else I installed a new cam, an ignition cup and a new chrome Drag cam cover.
I hate the fact that the Twin Tec does not have a status light that works without the bike running.

[kink04fxd]

"And, who doesn't love getting soaked with oil doing the final timing".
Time it through the primary chain inspection hole and you won't get soaked with oil.

[cheech]

You putting the TDC mark or the 35° advanced mark in the hole to static time?

[Pirsch Fire Wagon]

"And, who doesn't love getting soaked with oil doing the final timing".
Time it through the primary chain inspection hole and you won't get soaked with oil.

Done that 2 with white paint marker - Back in the day looked like a SWAT Guy approaching suspect with timing light and Safety Glasses - LOL

[crock]

You putting the TDC mark or the 35° advanced mark in the hole to static time?

A little pricie but I love it
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-671/v-twin-manufacturing-timing-device?redirectedKeyword=911671&totalResult=1
Set TDC, paint a mark on the rotor and time it thru the inspection hole like an old small block chevy

[waltcentral]

 On the late model Shovel's the TDC mark is is the solid line. Piston is a Top and line is centered.

[Hossamania]

Is that for the front or rear cylinder?

[kink04fxd]

Front.

[Racepres]

Any of my bikes that run the very best I can get out of them, I have no Idea where the Timing is set...But, as all here know, I final tune at the DragStrip..
BTW for some reason "pink wire" sticks in my Head as "out" to Tach...

[cheech]

On the late model Shovel's the TDC mark is is the solid line. Piston is a Top and line is centered.

Verify I guess. Snip below for 80 and later. Then they still have Early style and late style marks shown. So when was the cutoff? 
1005 Says to be on TDC. I could see if you are on the 35° mark, the notch in the rotor would be too far out to get the light to trigger on and off by rotating the plate.
Anyway, put it on the dot and see if you can get it static timed. You got nothing to lose. What style dot does your wheels have?
[attach=0,msg1347514]

[Racepres]

I'm thinking my 1983 had a Lazy 8 kinda mark for front cyl advanced... Looking
Yep... Like this.. Odd Mark


Static time then Fine Tune... I have never run a "one size fits all" tune so.. Once Static timed... I shut the hole!!~!~!

[cheech]

I'm thinking my 1983 had a Lazy 8 kinda mark for front cyl advanced... Looking

We were typing at same time. LOL Lazy 8 was rear advanced I believe.  Mark 4 in snip.

[Racepres]

I'm thinking my 1983 had a Lazy 8 kinda mark for front cyl advanced... Looking

We were typing at same time. LOL Lazy 8 was rear advanced I believe.  Mark 4 in snip.

Agreee... lazy 8 was 20 degree on post 1996... I don't know what to call that odd mark on the late Shovel... but thats the one to static off of...and you won't find the lazy 8 on no Shovel anyways...

[Burnout]

DO NOT GUESS on timing marks!!!!   

Remove the plugs and probe the top of the piston and slowly rotate the motor.
When you feel the piston at the top, look in the timing hole, that is your TDC mark.
Then rotate the motor backwards and watch the timing hole and the first mark you see will be the advance mark.

[waltcentral]

Like Burnout said. Front cylinder at top and late style marks on flywheel.
1) installed a JP Cycles replacement for the Harley ignition timing cup.
2) with key on and kill switch on I have battery voltage to coil
3) following the pictures on the Daytona instructions the ignition rotor cutouts are at 1:00 o'clock top and 7:00 o'clock at the bottom
4) I have no measurable shorts that I can detect
5) the cam cover rim the the 1005 Twin Tec sets on has strong continuity to ground
6) The ignition cup has good ground

[cheech]

Agreee... lazy 8 was 20 degree on post 1996... I don't know what to call that odd mark on the late Shovel... but thats the one to static off of...and you won't find the lazy 8 on no Shovel anyways...

I always thought the Shovel was considered a "lazy 8". I'd call that 20° mark on that pic for 96 as a double dot. YMMV

[cheech]

Like Burnout said. Front cylinder at top and late style marks on flywheel.
1) installed a JP Cycles replacement for the Harley ignition timing cup.
2) with key on and kill switch on I have battery voltage to coil
3) following the pictures on the Daytona instructions the ignition rotor cutouts are at 1:00 o'clock top and 7:00 o'clock at the bottom
4) I have no measurable shorts that I can detect
5) the cam cover rim the the 1005 Twin Tec sets on has strong continuity to ground
6) The ignition cup has good ground

Well at this point why get hung up on static timing it? The module will end up nearly vertical or off slightly. So cinch it down there. Start it and time it with a light. Then it's nailed down. No guessing.

[Racepres]

I guess I don't see any Guessing...it either has that Particular mark... before the "T" TDC, or it Don't..
Static timed then Tuned in in Whatever means one deems necessary... again ... In My World... One Size [adjustment] Does Not Fit All... Like Asking where my Carburetor is Set!!!!

[cheech]

I guess I don't see any Guessing...

The no guessing wasn't meant as to him guessing what marks.
It was in regards to him not being able to get the LED lit then go out to static time it.
If he's piddling with it and the fact he can't get the LED to light may be holding him up on finishing it.
Which appears to be the case as he started this thread. 

If it was in front of me, I'd be inclined to say F it, "guess" a spot where the timing is going to end up. Then light it up to set the timing.

[waltcentral]

I agree with your sentiment Cheech but this kit was too expensive to accept it not working as designed. And if it is working properly what am I missing. I build vacuum tube electronics as a hobby and in comparison this stuff should be pretty simple.

[cheech]

I agree with your sentiment Cheech but this kit was too expensive to accept it not working as designed. And if it is working properly what am I missing. I build vacuum tube electronics as a hobby and in comparison this stuff should be pretty simple.

I agree with you also. Hair raising when components don't work as designed. 
Have you turned on, then rocked back and forth as per the instructions? Take note of the bold italicized note in step 4 of the static time procedure.

I'd also be inclined to have the module off where you can get to the sensor slot, but grounded against the cone, ignition on and try sliding a small thin sheet between there.
See if you can trigger the LED.

[cheech]

OK I installed  my Dyna dual fire coil and same results. white wire and White Black wire from ignition connected to one terminal and pink wire to another.

I'm puzzled on this??
Only a white/black from module should be powering the module.
The only other wire with white involved is a purple/white that goes to a VOES if used. Otherwise insulate.

Are you inadvertently connecting that wire to a 12 volt source at coil?
Or is the white from your switch?

[waltcentral]

Thanks Cheech. I was able to get the LED to come on and off but I had the module pulled part of the way out. It makes sense that it would NOT illuminate when first turned on because it requires a few rotations before firing unless programmed for kick start. 
As always "understanding is the BOOBY prize in life."
I do not like this timing cup, it can cock to one side.