1980 FXWG broke down on me today, had to push it home!

[Dangit_Dave]

Out for a short trip today. Went to town and back (12 mi.) Everything was running fine. Almost home, made a turn off the highway and up shifted from 1st to 2nd, gave it some gas and then heard this "whack, clunk grind,clunk and grind" noises from the primary side, no power to rear wheel. Quickly pulled in the clutch, killed the motor, coasted to side of the road. Thought that the primary chain had let go, pulled the clutch cover everything looked OK, clutch moves when pulled, chain was still on. Opened inspection cover, chain still looked good, checked the tension and it was tighter than I could believe, totally as tight as it could be, not like normal at all. No play AT ALL. Hmmm, trans was in neutral, put it in 2nd and tried to roll backward, no way, forward, no way. Put it back into neutral and tried to turn it over with the kicker, couldn't turn it over standing on it. Tried the starter, Wouldn't turn it over either. So I buttoned it back up and pushed it the last .6 mi. back to the house. Question is... anyone have an idea as to what could have caused this? I'm leaning toward maybe a tranny problem. It's a cowpie 4 spd. I haven't started pulling anything apart yet, but will be starting this evening after it cools down some outside. Maybe it will be apparent as soon as I get the outer primary cover off but suggestions are welcome as I have never had any problems with this bike or ever had this happen before on any of my others. This Wide Glide is stock with 27K original miles on it. At least it didn't bust the primary, as far as I can see, and I was close to home when it happened.
Any ideas befor I get started???

DangIt!

[Dangit_Dave]

Never mind, I got it. Lower front inner primary bolt backed out and got picked up by the chain. Other than half a dozen pieces of cast web braces that that got "trimmed" and a mangled bolt I think I saved it by quick reflexes on the kill button. Chain and sprockets look OK. Will replace the bolt with a a new one with the safety wire drilled head and wire them both back together. No, I didn't forget it, but the previous owner (or his wrench) obviousely did! I did miss seeing it though, when I pulled the inspection plate to check and adjust the chain tension a couple of months back. Those safety wires are there for a reason. Dont leave 'em off!

DangIt Dave!

[neten-o]

Glad you got it sorted out Dave ..wow 6 mile push home ..she musta though you needed the exercise..

[76shuvlinoff]

Glad you found it.
For what it's worth, I ran a bottoming tap in the primary mounting holes on the engine case then installed the longest socket head cap screws I could fit   (after I drilled em for safety wire)

.02

[motorplex88]

This is another vote for saftey wiring inner primary bolts. The hot ticket !!

[Dangit_Dave]

Glad you found it.
For what it's worth, I ran a bottoming tap in the primary mounting holes on the engine case then installed the longest socket head cap screws I could fit   (after I drilled em for safety wire)

76Shuvlinoff... your idea to use drilled allen heads sounds like the ticket, I'm going to do the same if I have trouble finding a OEM type hex head cap screw. My main concern now is the transmission output shaft still being true and the seal and bushing not being being trashed by the extreme chain tension created when that bolt went around the clutch sprocket! When I backed off the adjuster bolt, it slammed the adjuster down with a BANG that was so loud it sent the OL running for cover! Even with the adjuster backed all the way off, the chain was still too tight but it loosened it up enough to let me turn the comp. sprocket nut with a wrench to roll the chain back and find the bolt. It was wedged between the clutch spockets.
Talk about being in a bind!

Oh, and for the record, I only had to push her 6/10 (.6) of a mile not 6 miles. No way I could've done that in 95+ deg. temps. I would have gotten on the horn and called for backup with a trailer!!! Luckilly there were a couple of shade trees on the road and I had a 24 oz. cold cold one in the tool roll!   

Thanks for the replies, DangIt Dave.

[BikerJim44]

A little tip I learned from an old biker. If you can't find the predrilled cap head bolts in Grade 8 you can drill them with no problems. First you need a very good sharp drill bit and some turpentine. Put some turpentine in a squirt can and just as you would use tapping oil to tap a thread you just squirt a little turp on the bolt cap as you drill. It will cut through the grade 8 bolt or any hardened steel like butter and not effect the hardness. It works great. Spidey.