Twin Cam Bagger Oil Pan Query...

[Big Dan]

I've never had one of these oil pans in my hands, so I don't know exactly how all the baffling and what-not is configured. What I'd like to know is, could a person drain the pan via the 3/8" pipe plug that's located next to the 1/2"-20 drain plug that is normally used. I would think that you could, but not having seen one in person I just can't be sure.

The thread on my oil temperature sending unit is 1/2-20. I came up with a bushing that allows it to screw into the 3/8 pipe opening, and it functions okay, but it wants to drip at times and I'm tired of fighting with it. I'd like to screw the TSU directly into the 1/2-20 opening and use the 3/8 pipe opening for oil changes.

Thoughts?

[smoserx1]

Dan,

I presume you are talking about a bagger.  I keep a used oil pan in the garage for reference.  Anyway, the pipe plug you are referring to leads to the oil supply tunnel of the pan.  The supply tunnel is about 2.5 inches long and extends into the baffle space of the pan, whereas the oil drain tunnel is located outside the baffle at the extreme front left of the pan.  One of the things this design does is keep debris near the drain from migrating to the oil pickup (in theory anyway), since the baffle separates the two.  The supply tunnel is also slightly elevated about 1/16 inch above the pan floor where the drain tunnel opening is slightly depressed below floor level, if that makes any sense.  It should still drain, but it kind of bothers me thinking debris might migrate into the supply tunnel.  They will immediately get sucked into the pump.  If you have a service manual, see chapter 3 about the discussion of the oil flow.  There should be illustrations of the pan and baffle.  You will see what I am talking about.

[Jeffd]

i know the directions say not to use any teflon threat wrap but i did and never had a leak and it worked fine. I know on mine it would take forever to drain the oil out of that hole as I had to replace my sender unit and I never lost any oil when removing the old one.  The filler cap was still in but still.

[Sonny S.]

for those that don't use the 3/8" port for anything, I installed a magnetic pipe plug in mine. That port leads straight to the oil pump.  I always take a peek when I change the oil

[RandR]

I do not use Teflon tape on anything related to engine or engine oil. T/C's are not quite as susceptible as single cam engine's but there are passages that could get plugged from the smallest piece of Teflon tape. I DO use Teflon pipe dope on drain plugs and such. Clean and dry all threads apply pipe dope and your leak should be gone. Don't over tighten! Bob.

[Sonny S.]

>>>I DO use Teflon pipe dope on drain plugs and such.<<<

LocTite 567 

[Big Dan]

Thanks, smoserx1, that answered my query. I already made a new adapter that should work just fine. I took a 3/8 x 1/8 brass bushing and drilled & tapped the center hole to 1/2-20.

It used to be a Cardinal Sin to use tape on natural gas piping as well, although now they make tape that is supposedly meant for gas service. It's thicker, and comes on a yellow roll. I'd probably use it in a pinch, very carefully, but I prefer good ol' RectorSeal No. 5 yellow pipe dope. I don't like teflon dope on small stuff, especially brass, because it's damn near too slippery.

[Deye76]

Been using RectorSeal No.5 Special (the gray stuff) for years. OK for liquids too. A little less messy than the yellow.

[Admiral Akbar]

Been using RectorSeal No.5 Special (the gray stuff) for years. OK for liquids too. A little less messy than the yellow.

I use that stuff to stop the skid marks in my underwear,,

Max

[Ridetard]

Teflon tape on a sending unit is asking for trouble,  The sending unit must have a good electical bond to the oil pan.  My sending unit has never leaked,
The same holds true for natural gas lines.  Using treflon on the threads and compromising the ground is suicide.

[Deye76]

"I use that stuff to stop the skid marks in my underwear,,

Max"

Word on the street, is, it hasn't helped.