Mild build on my FXR4

[fxr4mikey]

here's the build specs:

•   SE Heads
•   Cometic .030 head gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Sifton max axle lifters
•   Chrome lifter blocks -  whoo hooo…….. chrome doo dads  
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition (installed in June)
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Change INA cam bearing to Torrington
•   S&S reed style breather valve

started a couple of weeks ago - I'm in no hurry, and am taking my time, and having FUN FUN FUN !!!

The tear down is complete and I started working from the bottom up this afternoon putting her back together .... here's this afternoon's play

OK, here's some photo's from todays work

here's the OLD camshaft oil seal being knocked out


here's the old, and new oil seal on the bench
the damage you see on the old one is from being removed, it actually didn't have much of any wear on it, but it's a 50 cent item to replace and takes 2 minutes


here's the new oil seal going in ... used a socket the size of the seal and hit it with a dead blow rubber mallet to seat it in the cam cover, EASY STUFF


oil seal after the install ... this is the inside of the gear housing cover, also called cam chest cover


stock INA inner cam bearing on the left, torrington replacement bearing on the right ..... I like the one on the right  :huepfenjump3:


what I'm showing here is the view through the hole where the inner cam bearing is installed ... look through it, you see the crank in the background .... when you want to 'REMOVE' the bearing, make sure to rotate the crank so that it IS NOT ALIGNED with the bearing .... I'll show you that in the 2nd pic from here


crank rotated so that it IS NOT aligned with the cam bearing ... this allows you to put a PILOT BEARING PULLER into the bearing for removal
you can't really 'see it' in this pic, but there is A LOT more room behind the cam bearing when you rotate the crank so that the crank arm is not directly behind the bearing



installing the new cam bearing ... use assembly lube, set the bearing in the hole firmly with your thumbs, one in the cam chest, the other from the top through the lifter block hole


use the butt end of a wooden hammer to start setting the bearing


after I gave it a few light taps with that, I put the thrust washer on the OLD CAMSHAFT and inserted it into the bearing.
Then I hit the end of the camshaft with a rubber dead blow hammer .... I drove it in until I thought that it was seated, checked it with a flashlight
you can BARELY see the lip of the seat when the bearing is in.




after the bearing was set, I put the cam cover back on and checked the camshaft endplay .... this assured me that the bearing was fully seated. My measurement came back eggzactly to what it was prior to removal of the INA bearing ..... .010 inches ..... I was a HAPPY CAMPER   :huepfenjump3:




then I removed the cam cover and the gasket, and installed the reed breather valve, EASY EASY, put some assembly lube on it and slide it in the hole, how easy is this stuff !



then I installed the camshaft ..... now I have to tell you..... it took me 20 minutes OR MORE, and phone calls to Doofves and gZINTAs (Thanks Paul and Mark!!!) to find the dayum timing mark on the pinion gear ... and you MUST have this alignment mark if you EVER think this bike will start again    :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:



this mark on the left side is for the timing mark if you are using the 'timing dependent' breather valve, which I'm not



here's the gear chest with the new camshaft, with the orginal cam gear, new torrington bearing and S&S reed valve, all ready to be buttoned up .... dump assembly lube on everything, and then after the cam cover goes on pour 1 pint of clean/new motor oil down through the lifter block hole. This will provide lube to the gears on initial startup before the oil pump gets oil in there.



here's some misc pics of the garage while working on the bike .... you might notice the TWO important items on the workbench   :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:

[ClassicRider2002]

Keep us posted Mikey~~~

Looks great

Regards,

"Classic"

[guido4198]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 
I sawthe two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

[Old Crow]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 
I sawthe two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

I took the beers as one important thing,, and the big light as the second.  My eyes are getting old, you see.

[tinkerman]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations. I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before...keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Thanks,

Tinkerman

[Bucket]

Good job Mikey, Don't forget the spring on the reed. I installed one with an ev 27 and adj. pushrods. Waiting on heads to come in and will be where you are now  Good luck   keep the pic. coming

[CraigArizona85248]

Awesome!  Thanks for the photos and description.  Always nice to see the build details.

-Craig

[fxr4mikey]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 

Thanks Guido !

I saw the two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

[fxr4mikey]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations.

Thanks Tinkerman !!!!!

I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

Yes, I saw that in your other post ..... that was some extra work for you for sure !

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

I'm not 'sure' that there is a NOTICALBLE advantage over the timed stock breather .... I like the idea that with the reed valve it can breathe WHENEVER there's vaccum to cause it, and it doesn't have to wait for the piston to be in the 'correct' part of the cycle to do so ..... let me ask it to you this way ..... WHY does the MOCO put a 'TIMED' breather in there anyway ?  what's the advantage of having a 'timed' breather ??  Why wuldn't you want the crankcase to breathe whenever it needed to ?

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before..

Yes, it's not really for guys like you, that have been in there many times before and already know more about it than I ever will. But now you take a guy like Elvislee ....  He's never seen the inside of the cam chest before ..... Have ya Blaine  ..... not that that is bad, just that for some who have never been here, they might find some help in the postings.

.keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Yup, will do .... I hope to have my jugs and pistons and rings by Tuesday, and riding by the weekend   

Thanks,

Tinkerman

[fxr4mikey]

Good job Mikey, Don't forget the spring on the reed.

Yes, Thanks !  I have it sitting right there, and will stick it on the valve just before I put the cover on it, tomorrow 

I installed one with an ev 27 and adj. pushrods. Waiting on heads to come in and will be where you are now  Good luck 

Thanks !

keep the pic. coming

Will do !

you'll have to let us know how your doing when your parts get there  ....... right ?  Thanks !   

[fxr4mikey]

Awesome!  Thanks for the photos and description.  Always nice to see the build details.

-Craig

Thanks Craig .... maybe they'll help out someone that's working though a build, I'm having fun with it   

[ClassicRider2002]

Do we want to talk about bolts here?



Never mind.....lol

Regards,

"Classic"

[elvislee]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations.

Thanks Tinkerman !!!!!

I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

Yes, I saw that in your other post ..... that was some extra work for you for sure !

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

I'm not 'sure' that there is a NOTICALBLE advantage over the timed stock breather .... I like the idea that with the reed valve it can breathe WHENEVER there's vaccum to cause it, and it doesn't have to wait for the piston to be in the 'correct' part of the cycle to do so ..... let me ask it to you this way ..... WHY does the MOCO put a 'TIMED' breather in there anyway ?  what's the advantage of having a 'timed' breather ??  Why wuldn't you want the crankcase to breathe whenever it needed to ?

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before..

Yes, it's not really for guys like you, that have been in there many times before and already know more about it than I ever will. But now you take a guy like Elvislee ....  He's never seen the inside of the cam chest before ..... Have ya Blaine  ..... not that that is bad, just that for some who have never been here, they might find some help in the postings.[/b]
.keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Yup, will do .... I hope to have my jugs and pistons and rings by Tuesday, and riding by the weekend   

Thanks,

Tinkerman

Hey Mikey...As I said earlier; this whole writeup, documentation, and pics on your build is outstanding! For a guy like me who can't lay claim to the title of a shade tree mechanic; I appreciate and take seriously every post on this build. My 4 only has 10k miles on it so a cam is not in the stars right now. When I start getting around that 25k mark I am gonna consider hard in throwing one in and I WILL need all the help I can get; trust me when I say all this stuff is being saved printed and placed in a binder for future use. Again, a great job man  Now on a serious note...............................CLEAN THEM DANG BOLTS MAN!! 

[tinkerman]

Actually,

This is the first time I have looked at the insides of an Evo. Used to hang with a fellow (RIP) that ran a shovel so had a snoop around in there once or twice, know the Brit bikes not to bad, (Nortons for the most part, Triumphs a little bit) and have gutted a number of Jap bikes over the years. Mostly growing up I was into four wheels (gotta love that old duster).

Anyway with all that said I find your original post very interesting and look forward to a few more posts from you as you put it together. I am away for a bit and won't get at mine until early March so you will likley get yours back together before me.

Keep the photos coming and good luck with the build,

Tinkerman

Oh Ya, What's with the "clean the bolts" thing? I'm missing something here.

[rdkng]

Thanks Mikey.. nice pictures and project.  Brings back good memories
for when I built my 89inch stoker motor.    A couple comments, 
one thing I did was after all was done, I turned the motor over via rear
tire with oil filer off to insure I had the oil pump correct.
I also put probably 8 oz of oil into the case, which got puked out..
4 oz may be about right
for grins, all of my bolts were cleaned and either lubed or had antisieze
on the ones that were steel going into alumnium.. I dont know if that's
any great idea, but I liked it.   
Looks like you have a nice shop.. so Enjoy !  & keep us posted
rdkng

 

[ClassicRider2002]

Yeah Mikey......what's with the clean bolts thing? what are we missin here.....

Regards,

"Classic"

[fxr4mikey]

 
clean the bolts .. I don't know, seems somewhere, someone asked me if I was wire brushing all my bolts before I re-installed them .....

I challenged the thought ....

I will make sure that my head bolts are clean, and the rocker box bolts also.

[ClassicRider2002]

Well there you have it....."BOLT GATE" solved.....

Ummmmm Mikey could I put in a request for a picture of you cleanin them bolts.....ummmm maybe you aren't taking requests though......? ? ? ?

No rush......whenever....

On a serious note.....this is a great thread....it does take a lot of time to take photos, post photos, and then describe what's going on......so I appreciate your effort......just as we all do......GREAT EFFORT!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

[Herulf]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

my first post 

[elvislee]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

my first post 

Well welcome aboard Herulf  Ya picked the perfect thread ta post on...Now....maybe you'll/we'll get lucky and see Mikey wire brushin them bolts that Tim mentioned  .........Hey Mikey...Your doin a GREAT job man 

[Buddy WMC]

Mikey,
Great job and nice looking scoot  . What brand and length rear shocks are you using?
Thanks....

[fxr4mikey]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

not ALWAYS ..... LOL..... why do you ask ?

my first post 

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey,
Great job and nice looking scoot  . What brand and length rear shocks are you using?
Thanks....

brand is FOX, they do not make them any longer for 'street' bikes .. they're big in off road stuff
they are 12 inches eye to eye
VERY GOOD shocks !!

[fxr4mikey]

Yesterday I did up her bottom end   

most of this stuff is for the 'new guys' that have never done this, but are thinking 'maybe' me too some day ...  so the rest of you just enjoy the pics   :roflback:

here's my new lifters soaking in an oil bath (20w-50w) ... they been in this bath for about 3 weeks. The reason you do this is that the lifters have to be filled with oil BEFORE you try to adjust them. You can soak them, the oil will flow into the lifters, or you can use a oil squirt can and squirt the oil in there .... I don't have an oil can and didn't want to spend 10 bucks for one just for this job .... find a plastic dish and put them in there.  Be sure to put some saran wrap or something over them ... oil COLLECTS dust and dirt ... you don't want that in your lifters.
you can actually see some of the air bubbles coming up in the oil, you can see my pretty face in there too     :roflback::woohoo:



Then I set about to clean off the old gaskets from my rocker boxes. 





you think that those old paper gaskets aren't 'HARD' / 'TOUGH' ..... look at this razor blade  ... it's was NEW when I started


then I set about to clean up the cases where the lifter blocks mount .. some of you should be HAPPY now   LMFAO  !!!!!!!


then I set about to install the lifter blocks and lifters
Here you see the block gaskets ... HD stuff, one is silver, one is gray, you CAN NOT mix them up, the silver one goes on the rear cylinder, SIMPLE is as SIMPLE does   LOL

for those of you who might not know, you have to use an ALIGNMENT tool when you install the lifters. This insures that the oil passage in the cases are aligned with the holes in the lifter blocks, and more so, that the lifters are aligned properly with the lobes on the cam shaft.
In the above picture you can see the little black alignment tool, it is in this picture only to hold the gasket in place while I was taking the picture.
The way you do it .... put the gasket on the bottom of the lifter block, install the lifters and blocks onto the case, install the alignment tool in the hole next to the oil passage (I use two alignment tools .. in opposite corners) then install the two bolts, torque them down, remove the tools, insert the last two bolts and torque them down


first lifter block installed ..... CHROME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   :woohoo::woohoo:  GOES FASTER !!!!!!!!!!!

I did it this way so I could put my fingers in the cam chest to hold the lifters in the blocks while I lowered onto the case.  On the second one I just bent a paper clip and hooked it onto the retaining ring lip and pulled the lifters up against the top of the block while I lowered it onto the case ..... didn't want to drop one of them into the cam chest.  I closed up the cam chest before I installed the second lifter block because I used that hole to dump 1/4 pint of oil into the cam chest

putting the oil in ... used a funnel because I had the oil in a dish that the lifters were soaking in







putting on the second lifter block... you can see the alignment tool on the lower left of the block .... nice torque wrench huh   :woohoo: :woohoo:


both sets of lifters installed - cam and breather valve installed



Tomorrow, or the next day, when I post up pics you'll see why I did it this way ....
I want to clean up my cylinder studs and I wanted to  close up the cam chest and cover the lifters cause I don't want any of the debris from that job to get inside .....

[BKACHE]

Gerat thread.
Thanks
2 things though.
1- when the cam bearing was installed - is it flush wn the case? I was told to resess it a bit. That is how it gets oiled - oil drip down from the case inner to the opening above the thrust washer.
2- A clean / organized shop is the sign of a sick mind