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ARP studs/bolts

Started by Templer, November 12, 2013, 09:05:40 AM

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Templer

Is the $ spent on ARP bolt/studs worth the trouble?? The OEM bolts seem to work and very few talk about using anything else.When you get into Baker an a few others they supply ARP bolts. WHY?? Still want to go gear drive in my 07. No noise is trouble!! ANY reference to the noise U hear when NOT riding is not meant to disturb your idea of clarity!! They sell a ARP bolt set Assembly that is a upgrade but i cant see WHY? WHAT AREAS WOULD WARRENT THE USE? Any input would clear the FOG from my brain.
Templer(CA)

No Cents

I used stock HD cylinder studs in my 124 build. All my other internal bolts are ARP. They are the best fasteners you can buy.
I found they can be purchased thru allensfasteners.com way cheaper than anywhere else I could find.
Hope this helps.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

1931jamesw

I was going to recommend you contact No Cents. He found a great connection to buy them very cheap in comparison to other places. The stock hardware is grade 8 stuff and plenty up to the task but the ARP stuff is much more attractive. Feuling has a set that does every fastener on your bike but it is absurd the price they want for it. If by chance you were going to opt for the S&S plate/pump and their GE Easy Start cams, that setup is completely different than the other stuff around so no need to get the bolts for the cam chest with that setup. It comes with countersunk screws. VERY BEEFY setup and the pump moves a ton of oil! By the way, your limiters are shipping today!  :up:

hrdtail78

I use them on my own and if customer wants them.  Why?  I like 12 point stuff.  Reminds me of aviation stuff.  I don't like how water sits in the stock allen stuff, but it basicly comes down to looks.  It's not a better or stronger thing.  It's a look thing for me.

As for as cylinder studs.  I like Kibblewhite.
Semper Fi

les

Only place I use them religiously is for the #1 and #2 bolts of the cam plate.

Templer

Ok I am installing the Baker street door and it comes with ARP bolts. I already have the complete Wescot 12pnt set up on my TC AND DYNA. 99% of seen bolts are 12 point. I have read that there bolts are grade 5 not 8! I will be installing the SE camplate and pump that i have been setting on from there release. ARP bolts or studs and nuts to THIS plate? Also have gear drive setup waiting. ARP bolts to these ALSO?
Templer (CA)

Hillside Motorcycle

In the day in/day out engine building and assembly here, have we ever had an issue with the OEM engine hardware........on the other hand the Torx screws on the derbys must be made from grey-painted bubble gum.
Scott
Otto Knowbetter sez, "Even a fish wouldn't get caught if he kept his mouth shut"

les

Quote from: Templer on November 12, 2013, 11:25:49 AM
Ok I am installing the Baker street door and it comes with ARP bolts. I already have the complete Wescot 12pnt set up on my TC AND DYNA. 99% of seen bolts are 12 point. I have read that there bolts are grade 5 not 8! I will be installing the SE camplate and pump that i have been setting on from there release. ARP bolts or studs and nuts to THIS plate? Also have gear drive setup waiting. ARP bolts to these ALSO?
Templer (CA)

#1 and #2 bolt tightening sequence of the cam plate.  Those two bolts go through dowels, so there is only limited thread for those two behind the dowel.  Many have stripped those threads.  Therefore, I always use double threaded studs in those two holes ONLY.  The regular bolts in the other 4 holes of the cam plate.  The other 4 holes have a full compliment of threads and never a problem.  The automotive studs I use are 1/4"x20; 1/4"x28; 1 1/2" long studs.  One inch is too short.  I use the ARP 12-point black oxide nuts on them.  The studs I get at True Value hardware and the nuts at Summit Racing.  I always keep a stash of these in my garage.

After chasing and cleaning the bolt holes (quick dry electrical spray) I use red loctite on the (1/4"x20) threads that go into the casing, for those two studs.  I use blue loctite on the nuts (1/4"x28).  When installing the studs, I only "snug firm" by double nutting with the ARP nuts...don't over tighten.  They are studs and also bound by the red loctite so just firm snug.  It is helpful to get a 12-point 5/16" ignition wrench for the inner nut (for the thin space) when doing the double nutting.  Any wrench on the outer nut (like a 12-point 8mm wrench) works.

Using the studs, there is zero chance of stripping threads no matter now many times a person goes into the cam chest.  The little ARP nuts fit perfect into the cam plate.

No Cents

 :agree:
with you les. I use the automotive studs with ARP 12 point nuts.
You can buy the ARP 1/4-28 nuts from allens fasteners for $1.49 apiece. He charges a flat shipping rate...so I suggest buying a quantity of bolts at the same time. He also offers discounted pricing for large quantities.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

flhtruss

Hello
I just recently did the cam plate like that with the studs which are easy to find and bought a 10 pack of the 12 point nuts from summit racing think it cost $20.00 shipped to me. I have 8 left which I will probably never use, if any one wants a couple $2.00 each and I'll mail them to you. Not the good price no cents found but he never told me his hook up. :doh:
Russ
Russwork_2000@yahoo.com

Templer

Thanks
les and i are tring to get me a set that he has extra!!
IF THE PRICE IS RIGHT!!!!
Templer(CA)

tdkkart

 if I was somebody like Baker trying to sell a reliable product I would buy fasteners from someone that could supply me with very good hardware consistently. Buying from ARP may be slightly more expensive, but you're pretty much guaranteed to get the same parts every time, unlike many of the hardware supply outfits which will give you one brand this week and some other brand next week.

98fxstc

#12
Quote from: les on November 12, 2013, 12:08:33 PM

Using the studs, there is zero chance of stripping threads no matter now many times a person goes into the cam chest.  The little ARP nuts fit perfect into the cam plate.

Can't use the ARP nuts with a Delkron cam plate.
Hole is too snug to get a socket on.

Templer

Things are in the works
Thank LES
Templer(CA)

RevFastEddy

ARP fasteners are a nice touch.. Very high quality.  Caution though if you go Stainless steel be sure to use something to prevent electrolysis (anti seize). SS and Aluminum will corrode quickly when put together..   If you are using carbon steel or chromed ARP things are different.. they work very well together considering they are different metals.
SAEPE EXPERTUS, SEMPER FIDELIS, FRATRES AETERNI
Vietnam 67-68, Red Beach

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: RevFastEddy on November 13, 2013, 08:14:26 AM
ARP fasteners are a nice touch.. Very high quality.  Caution though if you go Stainless steel be sure to use something to prevent electrolysis (anti seize). SS and Aluminum will corrode quickly when put together..   If you are using carbon steel or chromed ARP things are different.. they work very well together considering they are different metals.

I be real careful using ARP stainless with an anti-sieze.. The issue is that the surface finish on the ARP bolts is so smooth that even when torqued they could back out.. In the area of critical fasteners like rocker towers and cam plates I'd use locktite.. It has enough antiseize properties and can do a far job of keeping electrolytes away..

Max